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Fifth Wheel Installation - 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install a Fifth Wheel on a 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


Today on our 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, we're going to be taking a look at installing the Reese quick install custom base rails and installation kit for fifth wheel trailer hitches, part number RP50066-58. This fifth wheel bed rail system is particularly nice because it fits many different fifth wheel hitches and goose neck adapters. As you can see it's got the different slots for different sizes. It's also got multiple mounting holes so that it can fit different truck set ups and different frame shapes. It's got a nice clean look. It's got this nice black powder coat finish, which is going to help resist that rust and corrosion.

The brackets that are underneath mounted to the frame are custom fit for this trucks frame to make installation a little bit easier and a better fit. It also cuts down on the need for drilling, other than the holes in the bed to mount it to the brackets because you don't have to drill anything through the frame itself. This kit is compatible with overload springs and comes with all the hardware that's needed for the installation of the rails and brackets. To give ourselves a little bit more room to work, we'll remove the wheel for installing the frame brackets. We're also going to lower the spare tire to give ourselves a little bit more access when we're up underneath to mount those bed rails up. First thing we're going to do is take one of our base rails and we'll take it into the back here.

We're going to do the rear one first. We want to measure from the rear lip of your bed there to what is specified in your instructions manual because this kit is compatible with both the six foot six inch beds and the eight foot beds. You'll need to take the correct measurement according to which bed you have. Today we're going to be working with the six foot six inch bed. We'll take our measurement, just kind of get our bed rail set into place.

That looks good right about there. Now we can make sure it's centered by measuring from the seam here on the outside and making sure that those match up. You want to make sure it's centered so that it lines up once you put your frame brackets in place. We're going to take and mark these holes out here. The second one in from the outside edge are going to be our mounting holes on this rear rail. I'm just going to give myself a little mark on the bed.

Then I'll also do it on this rearward facing center hole. Once you've got all five locations marked on this rear bed rail, we'll take an eighth inch drill bit and we're going to drill those out as our pilot holes. In order to make checking the alignment of the holes underneath on the frame rail brackets little bit easier, I'm going to use the fish wires that are provided. I'm just going to stick the end that doesn't have the threads on it down through. I'm do this in all four of the holes on the ends that'll go into the brackets. Just to give you a little bit better idea how well they line up. Now I'll take our frame bracket, which on this you'll want the one going towards the rear to have a little bit more space between the outer part of the bracket and these slotted holes. These two holes are going to line up with those holes, I'll show you here. We'll slide it up there. Then what I'm going to do just to kind of test fitment, is take the carriage bolts that we'll fish through later and put them in through the holes so you're not fighting holding that up there the whole time. It'll kind of stay there and then with those fish wires up there, you'll be able to check your alignment with your holes. You want to just try to line up your fish wires as best you can. Then this side you can see a little bit better than you can on the other side. Now we'll remove our little spare tire heat shield from around the exhaust. That's held up in place by two 13 millimeter bolts. You can take that, set that out of the way. That one's got a 13 millimeter up top on this cross section of frame holding the heat shield in. Now let's move up to the front of the heat shield. We've got one more right here. We've got two more securing locations that are on top of this frame and we'll remove those once we take this frame bracket back out. We'll take these out and take our frame brackets back off. When we're trying to drill the holes out up top, we're not going to damage these brackets at all. We've got two more 13 millimeters, one right here and one right up here for the heat shield. We'll take those off. If you'd like for a little bit more clearance, you can take this inner fender out. Just got a bunch of little torques head screws all the way around here but it's not required. Once we've got that one out, you just got that other one up front here to do. Definitely a little bit of tight space up there on top of the frame. I definitely recommend a ratcheting wrench if you have one. Now with all the high tech points for this heat shield loose, we can just slide it out of there. As you can see that's going to give us much better access to our mounting points for our brackets. Now that we've checked our alignment underneath, let's remove these fish wires that we helped to check that. We can take our nine sixteenths inch drill bit and we can drill these holes out bigger, since they're all lined up. Now we'll take our fish wires and we'll put the threaded in into the holes first and it's these upper holes on the frame. The ones that don't have the threads inside of them. We'll send it through there. There you can see access hole we're going to come out of right there. We'll just kind of pull it down through, put the spacer on, thread the carriage bolt into it and we can go back through. We want to feed that spacer in first. Take it a little bit off the end of the carriage bolt. Feed the space through, then the carriage bolt and come back to the outside, you'll be able to pull it into place. You might have to maneuver it a little bit just to get it to clear everything that's in there and get it to come straight out. Then we can fish our other one through. Now we use these fish wires to help guide our bracket up into place by feeding them from the inside out. Just to make sure that our bolts don't fall back into the frame while doing this and then we got to try and find them. Feed those through, they'll just kind of help guide it up into place. See that fell back in there but we can still pull it back through since we left our fish wire on. Now we can grab our conical tooth washers and the nuts, remove our fish wires. Put the washer on first with those teeth heading in towards the frame. Then get the nut that comes with the kit started. I'm just going to run it down most of the way. Not completely tight but it'll hold this bracket in place and upright, so we can get ready to put the rest of our hardware in place when we go back up top. Now that gives us a little bit of wiggle room for any adjustments. Now we're back up top. What I want to do is, I just want to check to make sure that it looks like the holes are lined up. Those look pretty good. Now what we can do is take our bed rail, put it into place, get these holes lined up. Then we can drop our carriage bolts through. Then we can go back underneath and start tightening some of our fasteners. Now I'm back underneath, you can see we've got the corrugation here. They supply you with these spacers and they slide right up in here. Around the carriage bolts coming through to help give that support between the levels of the corrugation. Those will go on all the carriage bolts and also you've got that center carriage bolt coming down. One goes on that as well. But in order to hold that one up there since there's no bracket, you need to have your lock washer, conical tooth washer and nut all ready. Just kind of finger tighten that down so that it'll hold. In order to help get the nuts and washers on these bolts underneath, little trick to help is lift this up and tighten it down just enough so it holds and won't sag back down. That'll give you a little bit more room on those carriage bolts coming down through the bed. Now we can put our conical tooth washer followed by our lock washer up into place. Then take the nut and get it started. Just going to run it up til it's hand tight, to help hold things in place and we'll get the other carriage bolt. Then we'll do the same thing on the other side. Now you want to grab an extra set of hands, to take the fifth wheel hitch, set it into place. Then with it in place you'll be able to mark your holes. On this front bed rail we'll be using the outermost holes over here on both sides, then the front center hole. Now that we've set in place before I mark my holes, what I'm going to do is I'm going to measure just to try and make sure it's square so that this isn't angled one way or another. In order to do that I'm going to measure from this corner here to the inside corner on the other side of the front rail and then I'm going to measure again to those inside corners where it makes an X. You want those measurements to be the same. That's just about right on. We can mark our holes then drill our pilot holes. Again we'll take our eighth inch bit as our pilot hole. Now underneath with those fish wires sent through you can see that they line up pretty well. You may have to do just a little bit of adjustment front to back but ours are lined up pretty well. We can go back up top and take everything off and drill out our holes. Lift our fifth wheel and pull that rail out of the way so that we can drill our holes out to the nine sixteenths of an inch. Now with our holes all drilled out, we can put our bed rail back into place. Get the holes lined up. Then on this one because you're on the holes that are further out, it's in the low spot of this corrugation we'll be putting these spacers up top here. You can drop your carriage bolts through. On the center here, it's still on the upswing of a corrugation. You'll just be dropping the carriage bolt through and that spacer will go underneath. Now we can go underneath and get the rest of the hardware started. Now we're underneath, you can take conical tooth washer and your lock washer and you want to get them started here on this center one. Once they're started we can take that last spacer like we talked about and slide it up there. Then hand tighten them, then we'll be able to move over to the frame brackets. Take the conical tooth washer, lock washer and then our nut and be sure to do that on both sides. Now a little trick you can use, if these are trying to push up on you when you're trying to put the nut and washers on from the underside. You can put something with a little bit of weight on top of them just to kind of help hold them down into place, so that they don't push up and give you too much of a hard time. Now that we've got all of our nuts started under here, what I'm going to do with these back ones before I tighten them is just to use a screwdriver just o make sure that the spacers that we put in here are seated all the way against those bolts before I start tightening them down. Then I can use my three quarter inch ratcheting wrench and start tightening them down til they're pretty tight so I can torque them. I'll do the same thing on the one in the center. Now that we've got them all fairly tight, let's go around and torque down to what's specified in the instruction manual. We'll do that to all of them. Now that we've got those tight let's come out here, tighten these up. For this be using a fifteen sixteenths. We'll do the same thing on this one. Then we'll do that to both sides. Now that we've got everything tight on our bed rails and frame brackets. Let's take our heat shield and put it back up into position. Then we can reinstall the bolts that came out of it. With that frame bracket being on this side, we may not be able to get all four back in, may be able to get just three. But the shield should be nice and secure with three. We'll get them started, then tighten them down. Then we'll be able to get the one we can access on top of the frame rail. Then we can get this one, which is the third and last one that we'll be able to access with these frame brackets in place. But we can get that one and get it tightened up as well. With that tight lets reinstall our spare tire heat shield. I'm just going to start them by hand. Then tighten them up with a 13 millimeter. Now with that tight, we'll reinstall our rear tires and torque them down to manufacturers specification and reinstall our spare. Once you've got your wheel tight and you've got it back on the ground, don't forget to torque it to manufacturers specs. That's going to complete our look at the Reese quick install custom base rails and installation kit for fifth wheel trailers hitches, part number RP50066-58 on our 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.


Info for this part was:

Employee Zack K
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Zack K
Employee Joshua S
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Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
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Jacob H

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