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Reese Strait-Line Weight Distribution System Installation - 2013 Ram 1500

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How to Install the Reese Strait-Line Weight Distribution System on a 2013 Ram 1500

Today on this 2013 Ram 1500 crew cab, were going to show you part number RP66074. This is a straight line weight distribution system with sway control from Reese. Now the weight distribution is designed for a 12,000 pound trailer and with a ton of weight of 1,200 pounds. First, well go ahead and cover our components that you get with this part number. You get the head assembly here, the spring arms, the fall spring arms down, down to the tool cam sway control located right here. Where you also get the hanger here, and the chains, and you also get the snap on brackets. All right, well go ahead and take a look at the spring arm here. This is whats called the trunnell style, it has a square arm that goes into a socket here.

Well work our way down to the end of the spring bar here. You can see how it has a curve built into it. This is designed to work with dual cam sway control, which is this device right here. What happens is when this cam is into the detent of the spring bar on both sides equally, its putting constant pressure on the trailer to make it go in a straight line behind your truck. Whats also nice about this action as well is that when you go around turns is that youll see these cams rise up and out of the way. This will rise up and the other one will go down.

Its just like a wheel barrow how you steer it. This actually helps steer the trailer with the vehicle as you go around curves. If youre using your weight distribution at its maximum, chances are youll end up moving it with the bracket. It does come with the hardware to add an extra bolt here to hold it in place. Well go ahead and show you how weight distribution installs in a typical application. Well go ahead and get some measurements off out truck and trailer. Well go ahead and start with our trailer, as level as possible, and well measure from the top of the coupler down to the ground.

Now, every measurement is going to be different. But in this case, we've got to measure it in twenty and a half inches. Next, we need to go ahead and get a measurement from our truck. We'll measure from the back wheel, at the top of the inner wheel, down to the ground. All right, and that will be a measurement of about thirty eight and a half inches. Now we need to get the same measurement going up front.

After we get everything installed we want our measurement on the back wheel to be within one and a half inches, roughly. Then our front wheel measurement shouldn't vary far off from its beginning. It can go up a little bit, but if it starts going down, the weight distribution is actually working a little bit too hard. We need to install a shank in our hitch, to hold the weight distribution assembly. Now, the shank does not come with the weight distribution. We're going to use Part number RP54970. Now weight distribution does come with the pendant club for it. All right, next we need to work with the weight distribution head assembly. We're going to add our ball to the head assembly. You see how the shank matches the head assembly, so you don't need a bushing or anything like that. Now the hitch ball we're using is Part number 19286, water lock washer and a nut. Now we need to tighten this ball down, we'll go ahead and put it onto our shank. We'll actually rotate it to make it easier to tighten down. Next, we'll go ahead and put our head assembly into place, and we want to get the top of our ball about one inch above the measurement that we had for our coupler. We had twenty and a half inches, so we'll go ahead and do twenty one and a half inches. We'll go ahead and put our hardware that comes with the kit in place. We have our one bolt, our lock washer, and a nut. The kit comes with a shim to take up any manufacturing tolerances between the shank and the head assembly. So if it tightens up and there's no gaps in the middle, you don't have to use this. You may end up having to cut it half and use it on one half, the top or the bottom, or you may use both. Let's go ahead and see if we can get ours to fit. They're being held in place, we'll go ahead and install our top bolt very loosely. Our bolt, and then this special block with the teeth mesh with the teeth on the head. We'll run it through the other side and add another block, a lock nut, and washer. We're going to leave everything loose for now, just so it's holding shape. All right, now we'll take one of our spring arms, we'll go ahead and put it in place. We'll do a preliminary sit up. Now there's a chart in the instructions that tell you how high tip of this needs to be off the ground. Now this measurement will be dependent on your coupler height, and the type of coupler you have. So make sure you double check your instructions for those measurements and type of coupler. Then, we'll go ahead and carefully take out our spring arm, and we'll go ahead and mark our setting on our hitch head. Make sure the teeth are firmly engaged on both sides. We're just going to keep it snug so it stays together and won't move on us. Once we're satisfied with the whole set up, and everything's finished, then we'll tighten down our bolts. Now, at this point, we'll go ahead and raise our trailer back up, and we'll connect our truck and trailer together. We'll go ahead and put our pin back in our coupler. Now, what we're going to do is raise our trailer back up to our level height. So that means we'll be picking up the truck and the trailer. Every time you disconnect your truck and trailer, you always want to make sure you have everything supported by the jack, so it makes it easy to uninstall and reinstall the spring bars. Let's go ahead and take a moment to prepare our spring bars now, we need to add these chains. The U bolt will go through the end of the chain, through these two holes, flat washers, and lock nuts. We'll go ahead and snug them down with a half inch socket. Once again, we're not going to fully tighten these down, because eventually we'll have to disassemble these when we install the sway control system. But we need our chains in place to help put our snap up brackets in place. Let's go ahead and put our arm in one more time, and we'll go ahead and bring it to our trailer. Now we'll go ahead and put our snap up bracket into place. We'll pull our chain vertical, and then put the center of our bracket with the vertical link. What I like to do, actually, is put it on the last link and then bring it up and over. That'll give you a good idea of which way you need to move it. Once you're satisfied with the placement of those snap up brackets, we'll take this long bolt with square head, and we'll put it in the threads behind the bracket. The bolt will go ahead and run to the frame and hold it in place. Now I've tightened down these bolts, there's not much to it. You want to run the bolt down until it stops and hits the frame, and then typically a quarter inch turn more will be tight enough. We're done with the driver's side of our trailer, let's go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger's side. We've got our snap up brackets in place, we'll go ahead and give it a test run with our spring bars in place. Always easier to put these spring bars on when the jack is supporting more of the weight. Bring our chain up with our snap up bracket level, we'll go ahead and put the closest link to it. Then we'll take our pry bar, which comes with the kit, and we'll go ahead and just pull it up and snap it into place. Then, we'll go ahead and put a clip to secure it, and then release our bar. Then we'll take our pry bar, which comes with the kit, and we'll go ahead and just pull it up and snap it into place. Then, we'll go ahead and put our clip to secure it, and then release our bar. We've got one, two, three links hanging on this side, we'll go ahead and repeat the same thing over on our passenger side. We'll go ahead and raise our jack up just a little bit, make sure it's not holding any of the weight, and we'll go ahead and measure our truck one more time. So we're only down by half an inch, let's check the front. We'll check the front, it looks like we're going down about a quarter inch, which is typically okay, but it's better to have it spot on in its original position. We'll go ahead and loosen up our spring bars by one link on each side and remeasure. So now we're back down to about an inch down from our original measurement, and our front measurement is about the same as our original measurement. So it looks like we're good, since everything worked out fine here. However, if we ran into a situation where changing links didn't help that much, then you'll probably have to disassemble and readjust the head head assembly to tilt it down another tooth or two. And go ahead and reassemble and try again. That's why we leave our hardware snug, but not fully tightened for now. Now this does have a high torque rating, so it might be a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help do this. Now let's go ahead and start working the dual cam high performance sway control parts of our weight distribution. Now remember we had these loose, we need to go ahead and take these apart. Let's save all our hardware, and our U bolt. Let's get our spring bar out of the way for now. We're going to add our U bolt to this component now. Works the same way. Two washers, and two lock nuts, and we'll go ahead and tighten these down for good. Now when we tighten these down, we want at least a couple threads showing, and there will be some movement on the U bolt. It's a good idea to put this in a bench vice or something else to clamp it in place to tighten these down. We've got two or three threads past nut here, and it is loose, but that's how it's supposed to be. Now we'll go ahead and turn our attention to the coupler. We need to find the center point of the coupler where the ball goes into. So using the tape measure, we'll go ahead and give this an idea where the center of the ball is. All right, this is our sway control right here, it's what does all the work when you get ready to install. To do that, we'll flip it upside down, and we need to loosen up these nuts here and here. We're going to run them all the way almost to the end of the threads here. Sometimes these threads stick, so you have to spray them down with some lubricant occasionally, but we're getting lucky here. That way, so when we put it together we have plenty of travel to work with. Let's take a bracket and let's go ahead and just put it to the bottom of the frame. We kind of guesstimate about twenty inches, and we'll clamp it. Next, we want to measure from the center of the hitch ball here, inside the coupler, to the center of bolt. We want to adjust it until it's about nineteen and three eighths inches. We'll go ahead and take our sway control to put on the bottom of the frame, roughly about twenty inches from the mark we made on our coupler earlier, and then we'll clamp it in place. Make sure we have free movement, and then we'll go ahead and double check our placement of our snap up bracket with our chain. We want to make sure that when we put everything together, our chain's in a straight line. Now is the time to make any adjustments you need to on this. Let's go ahead and disconnect the chain, let it go to the ground. Let's put our spring bar back into place. Let's bring it around, bring our sway control onto the bottom of our spring bar, and pull our chain up. We'll hook up to our snap up bracket. Make sure everything's in a straight line, and then once we have it under tension, you can see through this little opening here, to make sure the spring bar is making contact in this corner, and in this corner. Once you're satisfied with the placement of this component, we'll go ahead and mark and drill our holes into the frame. We'll use a half inch bit to mark the centers. Let's go ahead and take this off and get it out of our way, and work our holes up to eleven sixteeths. Let's go ahead and install our rivet nuts, may have to tap it in just a little bit. Let's go ahead and put the sway control back into place, and we'll start by installing our short half inch bolts. Just bolts alone, that's it. Now this long bolt, which is just like the bolt for our snap up brackets, go on the backside. Make sure we have it flat against the bottom of the frame, we'll go ahead and tighten it down until it touches, and then we'll go ahead and tighten down a quarter turn. And that's it. We'll go back to the other side and tighten down our bolts to the recommended torque specifications. All right, we're done with this side for now, let's go and repeat the same process over on the other side. We've got to tighten up the jam nut on the inside here. Now our lock washer will compress a little bit, we will leave a little extra room for when it does that. So then we'll go ahead and tighten this guy down. Done with the driver's side, one more time on the passenger's side. When you have everything set up and you want to double check the tension on your bars, you want to make sure that the bars are even with the bottom at most. Or pointing away from your frame towards the end is what you want. But you don't want the tips pointing back up towards the frame. All right, that will finish it for Part number RP66074, the straight line weight distribution with sway control from Reese. This 2013 Ram 1500 crew cab. .

Info for this part was:

Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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