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Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Braking System Installation - 2007 Jeep Liberty

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How to Install the Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Braking System on a 2007 Jeep Liberty

Speaker 1: Today on our 2007 Jeep Liberty, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Supplemental Braking system, part number RM-9400. Now our Even Brake is a portable, proportionate breaking system, that's going to allow us to flat tow our vehicle behind our RV. It's going to use an inertial sensor to detect the vehicle's braking or deceleration, and then it's going to match and activate the brakes with the same intensity and at the same time as you push the brakes on your motor home.It has a built in high performance air compressor, connection to actuator right here, and that's going to assure the system is ready for each stop. Now the Even Brake has a universal design, and it's going to work very well with many different applications. The feet, as well as the brake pedal clamp itself are fully adjustable and they're going to fit most vehicles. The rear brace is fully adjustable, so you have a nice secure content point against your seat.

The sensitivity and force is also adjustable, letting you regulate how aggressively your brakes are activated.Now one of the really nice features of this is that it is a portable system, so once you get where you're going, you can unplug a couple cables, remove the system and then you're able to drive your vehicle again. The way this is going to receive power is it's going to plug right into our cigarette lighter or 12 volt outlet in our vehicle. We're also going to have one other connection point, which is going to be the cord going into our transmitter box. Our transmitter is going to send information from our braking system to the monitor that we have mounted in our RV. Now our system also does have a built in breakaway switch, and in case of an emergency where our vehicle becomes disconnected from our motor home, it will pull this switch, which then applies full force to the brakes stopping your vehicle.The monitor in our motor home is going to help keep you updated in any activity or changes in status with our braking system.

The LCD screen is going to give you prompts and messages letting you know what's going on in the system, as well as LED lights around that are going to let us know when we're ready to tow and the test is good and when the brakes are being applied. Now if we come into the driver's side of our vehicle, we're going to need to run our breakaway switch harness inside. We're going to be looking on the firewall here behind our pedals to find a grommet or any spot that we can go through to gain access to our engine compartment.Right here we have a grommet, and I'm just going to push it away so I can get around it for now. I'm actually going to take a piece of air line tubing to make it easier and I'm going to push it through, that way I can attach my harness and then pull it back. I'm just going to push the grommet out of the way and start feeding my air line tube through, and when going to the engine and grabbing from the other side.Here's my air line tube.

It came out actually below my steering column here, just want to make sure to pull it to th side and pull it up far enough that I can get access to my harness for my breakaway switch. Just going to take a little bit of electrical tape, I'm going to tape it to my air line tube and then I'll pull it back through.Once we have our wire pulled all the way through, I'm going to come back out to the engine bay and make sure that I don't have any tangles and kinks in my lines, and that I'm not near any moving parts like the steering column here, or any heat sources like the exhaust and the side of the engine.Our next step is going to be mounting our brake light relay switch. Now we're going to come to our brake pedal and we're going to find out brake pedal switch. If you follow the arm up on our brake pedal, it's going to be up in our dash and we're going to find an electrical connector that's connected to it. In or application, if we actually pull this panel down, we'll have much better access going in from right here.

You're going to just take a plastic trim panel too and I'm going to pry down and away. It'll hinge down. If we come back to our brake pedal and we follow it up, here's our brake switch and here's the harness that's connected to it.Now we're going to need to test each one of these wires to find out which one's the cold side. What that means is it's only going to get power when the brake pedal is being pushed. Now we found that the white and tan striped wire is going to be the cold side of our brake switch, because here I have my tester on it and you see it's not activating anything, but when I push on the brake pedal, it only comes on when I push my pedal. This is the wire that we're going to be using.Now we're going to cut the white and tan striped wire. We're going to cut it in half, and we're going to strip back both ends. Now if we start with the loose end of our wire, the wire that's not connected to the switch anymore, we're going to be taking our relay here and we're going to take the black wire with the blue butt connector on it and we're going to connect it to that end that we just cut. Put our wire in the butt connector, and we come back and crimp it down. Come back and double check our connection.Now we're going to find the green wire on our relay that has the yellow butt connector and the spade terminal on it. We're going to take this yellow butt connector, and we're going to connect it to our white and tan wire that still has the switch connected to it back here. Now there's very limited room, so I'm going to get this crimped down, and then I'll show you how I got it down.This is the final result. We're going to have our cold side of our brake switch, the white and tan wire and you're going to have the green wire with the yellow butt connector connected to that wire on the switch side, and then on the other side we're going to connect our black wire. We're going to get ready to run our red wire. Now this already has a spade terminal attached. Now we're going to need to find a fuse that's only on when the key is in the accessory position. Now luckily we have a fuse panel right here, so if we just pull this panel off, we'll have access to all our fuses and we can start testing them.We come to our fuse panel with my key in the accessory position. We're going to start testing my fuses. Now I know here I have power, and to make sure that it's only on with the accessories, I'm going to go ahead and turn the key off, and the power went out on both sides of my fuse, so I know this fuse is only powered when my accessories are on. Now I'm going to run my red wire through my dahs behind my steering column and my speedometer. I'm going to come out somewhere in this general area so I can get close to my fuses.Now if we pull the fuse out, we're going to need to test it again. We're going to put our vehicle back into accessory mode, turning the key on but not starting the car, and we're going to test both sides of the terminal and whichever side has power is the side that we're going to tap into with our fuse tap. We have power on one side with our fuse out, which will be towards the front. Here's my fuse tap installed on my fuse. Now the way the fuse tap is going to look is you're going to have a male spade terminal at the top, and then you're going to have a small notch on the bottom here.Now what you want to do is you want to take it and slide it over one of the terminals on your fuse, and it's going to hug around the back and the top terminal is just going to stick up right there. When we go to reinstall our fuse, we need to make sure that the tap here is on the side that we had power that we just got done checking. With our fuse in place, we can go in and plug in our spade terminal from our red wire. With our wire connected, we can go ahead and put our panel back, and we move back under the dash and finish out the rest of our wiring.Now our blue wire under our dash here coming off our relay, we're not going to be using this, so I'm going to take a little bit of electrical tape and wrap it up, that way I don't have to worry about any damage or any corrosion getting into my relay. Our white wire is going to be our ground. We're going to need to find a suitable spot under our dash that we can mount this.I just pulled back some of the insulation and I took my ground wire and I ran it to my firewall. Now I'm going to take a self-tapping screw and put it into place. We're going to get ready to mount our transmitter, but before we do we're going to hook up all our wires and make sure that we have enough clearance and enough wire to mount it where we need. Right here we're going to have our breakaway harness. We can go ahead and take the one we routed through our firewall and we can go ahead and plug it in to our transmitter.Now we're going to have a red and a white wire coming off of our transmitter. The white wire, we're going to need to send to a ground, and the red wire we're going to tap into another fuse, but this time we're going to need to find a fuse that's powered all the time when it is in tow mode. We're going to route this wire back towards our fuse panel under our dash here, and we'll find a fuse that we can connect it to. We're just going to go through, and this first fuse here, this 15 amp fuse, it is getting power. I don't have my key on, so I'm going to be using this first 15 amp fuse right here.I'm going to go ahead and pull that fuse out, and we're going to set it aside for right now. We're going to take our red spade terminal and we're going to put it on the end of our red wire here. We're going to crimp it into place. Now we can take our fuse and we're going to get another fuse tap from our kit, and we're gong to slide it over our fuse just like we did with the other one. When we get ready, we can put our fuse back in place and hook our cord up to our fuse tap. With the power wire ran, we can focus on our ground wire. Now I'm going to take the provided ring terminal in our kit, and I'm going to crimp it onto our white wire.Now we're going to need to find a suitable spot for our ground, so I'm going to use the same location against the firewall here. I'm going to get another self-tapping screw, and it'll be a good location for our ground since we already have one for our relay right here. Before we mount our transmitter, we are going to need to hook up our spade terminal coming off of our relay kit. Now as you can see, this is a different color wire and that's because I extended it a little bit so I have a little more room to work with and I can make sure that I can find a good spot to mount my transmitter.Now I just took a small portion of wire and a couple butt connectors, that way I could extend my wire and still have my spade here. Now you can pick up a couple of these butt connectors using part number 224775 on our website. The wire comes by the foot, and if you use part number 12-1-1, you can pick up some extra wire as well. Now we're going to take our transmitter and our spade terminal, and right here at the number one terminal, you're going to see there's going to be a male spade terminal inside there, and we're going to hook up our green wire and plug it in right there.Now we can tidy up all our wires and find a good spot to mount our transmitter. Now in our kit, they do provide us with some hook and loop fasteners. I'm going to take the backing off, I'm going to put it on the back of my transmitter, push down, make sure it makes a good connection, and then I'm going to take the other backing off the other side. I'm actually going to mount my transmitter right here in the kick panel. There's a small hole right here in the dash that I'm going to feed my antenna up through so it doesn't get in the way. I'm just going to put it right there. I'm going to push firmly to make sure that the hook and loop fastener's making good contact with my panel.If we ever do need to remove it, the hook and loop fasteners are going to make it easy for us to pull it off our panel and then put it back in place since the hook and loop is going to stay fixed to here at all times. Now if we come back to where we ran our harness through that grommet, I'm actually going to take a knife and make a small incision, so I can slide my wire actually through the grommet, and then I'm going to come back and fill it up with silicone. If you don't have any silicone, you can pick some up on our website using part number LT37467. Now I'm just going to put a little bit of silicone going around my wire itself and filling in any of the gaps on my grommet just to give us a little bit of extra protection, and it'll keep my wire from chafing against the firewall.Before we install the Even Brake system itself, we're going to need to move our seat all th way back. Now we can grab our Even Brake box, and with this handle, this is going to be facing towards the seat and this black pedal here is going to be going towards our brake pedal. We're just going to set this on the floor in front of our seat. Now as soon as we put this in the vehicle, we can already tell that it's not level. Now if we go ahead and take it back out, there's going to be some feet on the bottom that we can adjust to make sure that it's sitting nice and level and secure.If we come to the bottom where the feet are, we'll see that there's two nuts. The larger one toward the base, we're going to be using a half inch wrench, and I'm going to loosen that up. That's going to be our lock nut. Then we'll be able to move our foot, and adjust it to wherever we need, and if we hold onto the foot we can go ahead and tighten that half inch nut up again and it'll keep the foot in place. Now that we have our base nice and level, we're going to need to hook up our pedal clamp to our brake pedal. We're going to pull this safety pin here, we're going to pull the safety pin, and now with the arrow point up, we're going to make sure that's obviously pointing towards the ceiling and we're going to take our pedal clamp and on top here we're going to go over our brake pedal and make sure that it wraps around the top.We're just going to loosely put it on there like that, and we can actually take this black piece, rotate it out of the way and now we're going to bring the bottom section of our clamp, making sure that it goes around the pedal. Then we can lock this tab back into place, put our pin and secure it down. With the brake pedal clamp in place, we're going to need to push this air relief button here, and we're going to hold that in and now we're going to slide our system forward until that air cylinder that's coming out connected to our pedal clamp is all the way collapsed, but not too far forward that we're actually activating the brake.Once we have it in place, we can let go of our release valve. Now we can get ready to move our seat forward. Before we do, we're going to come back to this handle here and this black knob underneath. Now we're going to loosen this knob up just enough. It's going to allow us to slide this handle and brace up and down, and then we can move our seat forward. Once we have it in line with our seat, it's going to make a good contact. We can go ahead and tighten it down, and then we can slide our seat forward. Now you want to make sure you're pushing down on our base, and then you just want your seat to come up and make contact with the base, but you don't want it to activate the don't want to push it too far forward to where it's actually going to push on the brakes, just enough to where it's going to make contact. Now before we power up our Even Brake, we're going to need to connect it to our transmitter over here. Now the wire's going to be on the driver's side right here. We're just going to route my plug behind my Even Brake and over to the side so I can plug into my transmitter. Plug that in there. We take our 12 volt power cord, plug it into our cigarette lighter or 12 volt power source in our car. They actually give you a lock that we're going to slide over the adapter and it'll keep it locked into place.Now if we hit the test button, it's going to run a self-test. It'll put on the brake a few times to make sure that everything's working in the proper way. The monitor in the motor home is going to let us know that the test is good, and if the system's ready. Now another thing to keep in mind is your floor mats. Now if you have floor mats on your vehicle, I recommend that you remove them, that way we don't have to worry about our Even Brake sliding around on the mat or potentially climbing up towards our seat and not functioning properly.Now the last step, I'm going to plug it in the monitor in our motor home. Again, we just have a 12 volt outlet. We're going to run it right there on our dash. Plug it in, and take our locking tab, push it firmly. Now they do provide you with a hook and loop fastener on the back of this as well, but we're going to let our customer decide exactly where they want to mount it. We're just going to have this sit right here for now. Now with everything hooked up, we're ready to hit the road.That'll finish up the look at the Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Supplemental Braking system, part number RM-9400, on our 2007 Jeep Liberty.

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