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Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System Installation - 2017 Ram 1500

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How to Install the Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System on a 2017 Ram 1500

Speaker 1: Today, in our 2017 Ram 1500 Rebel, we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Roadmaster InvisiBrake. This is a supplemental braking system for towed vehicles. Part number is RM-8700. Now the importance of a supplemental braking system comes from the fact that you've got lot of weight behind your motor home traveling at highway speeds. Motor homes are designed with braking systems to stop themselves at those speeds, but not necessarily with the additional weight of the vehicle we're hauling. This tends to extend the braking distance making it less safe.

Now with the braking system properly installed, you should maintain close to the same stopping distance whether you're towing the vehicle or not.It's going to apply the brakes in the towed vehicle, making sure it's doing its share of the work in stopping and keeping everything much safer. The InvisiBrake works by detecting when the brakes in the coach are applied, then applying the brakes in the towed vehicle. This is going to bring everything safely to a stop when needed. Now the light's going to do two things for us. First, when we hit our brakes in our coach, it's going to light up, and it indicates to us that we do in fact have the brake pedal moving in our vehicle, so the brakes are working.

But also when the brakes get applied in the truck when we don't intend them to, maybe something falls down on the pedal, our lights going to light up and it'll stay on.But also, if it goes past the normal cycle of our InvisiBrake, that buzzer is going to go, so we'll hear that beeping noise just like that. That's going to indicate to us something has engaged our pedal on the InvisiBrake and is holding it down. Now the InvisiBrake also helps to prevent overworking of the vehicle's braking system. When we hit our brake, it's going to give us the braking power that we need that we've got to adjust back there in the back, but in the case of a prolonged stop or for sitting in traffic or maybe at a stoplight, after about 18 seconds, 15 to 18 seconds, our light actually shuts off, deactivating the braking system there, so we're not overusing it.Now the adjustment process is pretty straightforward. What we're going to do is drive your RV around a little bit and get used to how the brakes feel.

Then we're going to hook up our towed vehicle, and we want to drive it with the towed vehicle, and we hope that the braking feels about the same as what it would if we didn't have our vehicle hooked up. Now if it feels like the vehicle's causing us to have to brake a little more heavily, we can pull out on our knob here and rotate it clockwise to get more braking pressure, or we can adjust it counterclockwise to get less braking pressure. You want to adjust this while somebody is stepping on the brake in the RV so you can watch your PSI level.See, it's about 60 there, so we can adjust that down, or we can adjust it up to get the proper amount of braking force that we want. Once we have it set, we can just push that straight in just like that. Now from the break-away switch, we've got a pigtail carabiner on each end.

The key to this is that it needs to be attached to the frame or the hitch. We don't want to attach it to our safety chains. So, I'm just going to bring the carabiner through the hitch, around, and connect it to itself just like that. Now in the event of an accidental separation, the break-away cable is key at operating the system. This would no longer be connected of course. It would be pulled out with the rest of it.When the pin comes out of the break-away system, it's automatically going to activate the system in the truck applying the brakes. All we have to do is slide that back in, and that system will reset and relax. Now one of the first components that you'll want to mount during your installation is going to be the operating unit itself. See, it's the largest component in the kit, so it's a good idea to establish where you're going to have this mounted. And then we've got wiring and things like that that are going to run off it, so we'll kind of know how we need to route those. For this, we're going to be working in the back underneath the driver's rear seat.There's a flat area there large enough to accept it, and that has a steel base underneath it, so when we put the screw that we're going to use to attach it, it'll be able to go right into that metal. Now as we're mounting our operating unit in place, we want to have our wires connected so we can route those at the same time. We're going to be running our wires and airlines underneath the carpeting and then this threshold area. We're going to pop these panels out, the one here in the rear driver's side door, and then we'll go up to the one on the front driver's side door. There'll be a few clips to separate underneath this as we go. We're just going to use a trim panel tool. You could also use a screwdriver.That should give us enough space there. Where we can get our wires right underneath, you can see at that point, we're able to just kind of lift up the carpeting. You can see where this loom already exists that runs through there. We'll also gentle pull out on this little cover here. We can get it separated back to just give us an idea of where we can get those wires to come through safely. Now the driver's door, we're just going to start on this back edge and kind of do the same thing, lifting up. And then once you get to the front, just kind of rotate it up and back. We're just going to free up that carpet a little bit. Now we need to locate the grommet that's located, that goes from the bottom.I think it's going to be right here, but we'll confirm that by drilling a very small quarter inch hole through the bottom and then sticking a screwdriver through to make sure that's where it comes out. Now right underneath that driver's door, there's going to be a body mount. Just in front of that body mount, we can see that grommet. So again, just a very small hole to start. Just gently poke out with your screwdriver and then you should be able to see that coming up inside of the vehicle. You'll notice some sound deadening material here. It's kind of laid over top of that grommet, so you'll have to use a flat-blade screwdriver or a knife and kind of trim around that edge just a little bit so we can pull that out.And just kind of gently lift up on that, we should be able to get it removed here. We're going to hang onto this because we'll trim this out and use this to pass our wiring through, and we'll just use some silicone sealing to seal it back up. Now we'll starting making our connections in the back side of the box. We'll start with the power and break-away switch wire. This is going to slide into the port located closest to the middle of the box. Next, we've got the green, white, brown, and yellow wire; that's going to go in the port to the right. Next, we'll be adding our quarter-inch airline, which is this, onto this port. Now we'll have to use a small piece of rubber airline to make that connection.Now this is all going to be included in your kit. We just need to work this where it goes well up inside there. We're looking for this to be an inch and a half or so up inside of that tube. Once we've got it up in there, the other end will slide on the larger port there. And lastly, we've got our little tiny airline. This is going to into the push-to-connect fitting. We want to be sure we have a very flush cut on that. Now we're going to use a tubing cutter, part number F9009, to ensure we get a really good flush cut. Then we want to slide that in. Now it's going to come to a stop. Then we need to make sure it goes in a little bit further. Once it comes to that first stop, it'll go about another eighth of an inch or a little bit more. Then you'll know you got it in there properly.Now I'm going to gently bring my wires and my tubing all together here. We're going to tape this up just so we can keep a clean install look and have all of our wires and hoses running on the same path. We want to make sure that we don't pull so much to where we kind of lean over on any of the hoses too far. We want to make sure they have some room like our wire. It's got a little slack. All of them are going to have a little bit of slack there. And then just wrap that up with some tape. We're going to pop this little cover open right here. You got a pushpin fastener right here holding this carpet in place. We're going to pull that out, kind of like a Christmas tree fastener really. Pull that out. We can pull this carpet edge up a little bit.We're going to go right down through there with our wiring, but we want to run it underneath this gap. You can see where my fingers come out there, to give us a good area to bring everything right over this way. Now it's probably best to them one at a time. You can do several. That's fine, but just going to run it under there. You can see it's going to come out here. It'll go down the edge of that carpeting. We'll just run them all to come out down in this area. Now to start it, we'll place our operating unit over there in position and just continue to bring those down through. You see how we've routed that right down around the corner there. We'll put our fastener back in and close our tap.We've got a pretty clean run there. Not a lot of wires hanging out. All of our lines have a little bit of slack on them there. It's going to come out right underneath the panel just around that corner there. Should be in good shape. Now to secure the box in position, we're going to use a number 12 by inch and a quarter self-tapping screw and a fender washer. That should give us the length we need to get through the carpet and the pad and actually to the steel of the body just like that. That'll keep it nice and secure. I'm going to continue to tape up about the next three feet and you can pre-measure how far you need. Just take this up and you want the end of the tape to end just about the back of the driver seat there.Now we'll tuck that right under the edge of the carpeting. We're going to follow along with that wire loom that's already there. There's a little pocket in there behind it. You can set it. Then you can see we can kind of pull up that carpeting right along that edge and just follow right along with it. Now once we get to this point, we want to separate the small airline away from the large harness. We'll continue to tape that up. We'll pass it right through our grommet. We're going to modify our grommet that went through the floorboard by putting a three-quarter-inch or a seven-eighths-inch hole in it. You could also use a step bit to kind of enlarge this, or of course, like a Dremel tool or something like that.You just want to get an area large enough cutout in this so you can pass through the wiring harness. Now you notice I'm making that cut on a slight angle. That's just going to help give my wiring a smooth area to pass over. Now we're going to bring our larger airline and the three wires that we have through the grommet, and we'll stick it right back down in the floor. Now we're going to bring our small airline right up through our carpeting. So we'll just make a small hole there with the screwdriver and pass the end of it through. Then we'll pull that guy through to the top side here. Want to make sure we don't have any kinks or any tangles underneath the carpet. Yeah, it's laying good there.Now, with that all tucked back down, we can tap our scuff panels back down into position here. Just notice right here on this edge, our panel's kind of being held up a little bit. We got a pinch point where our wiring runs down right here in the inside edge, so we'll just trim a little notch out of that to give it room so everything will sit back there nice and lax. You can see with that little bit cut out, this is going to be much more in line with what it was originally. Next, we'll get our actuator mounted. Now this actuator isn't something that necessarily needs to be hard-mounted. The work happens inside of it and that gets transferred through a cable.So I think right down here is going to be a pretty ideal location for it. Our wiring tucks in right here, so we won't have to worry about it being on top of that. We could zip tie this off using our carpeting here, so that should work out really well. The cable ends that we have here, we want this to go down underneath our carpet. It's eventually going to wind up behind our brake pedal there. Let's just kind of get it positioned where we want it. We're going to mark the area right here. We're going to use a razor knife and we'll just cut an X in there. Of course, before you do, check underneath for any kind of wiring or anything, and that X should be large enough so we can pass on the other end of that cable.We've got these two nuts here. We want to be able to pass those through. We're going to link the cable through. Move it just like that. That'll give us a nice clean look. Now we'll use the screwdriver. You're going to poke a hole through the carpeting there and we'll slide our zip tie right through that opening. We're going use a zip tie just a little bit longer than what comes with the kit just to help us find it underneath there. Leave it on there like that, and then we could put one more right up here. Once that's in position, we can flush cut our little air hose and that's going to in the port right here just like it did on the operating unit itself.I just want to make sure it's pressed firmly in there just like we did on the operating unit, and you should be able to pull on it without it coming back out. Now to keep that from hanging out here on the side of our seat, we can rotate our actuator just a little bit, and that should keep everything tucked in there underneath the seat. Now just to keep that from moving around, we can also throw a zip tie right around the cylinder. You don't want to over tighten it, or we'd smash the hose or anything, but we can have it so it'll hold it down against the actuator itself. Now the pulley system needs to mount in behind our brake pedal here.So if we come to the top edge of the carpet, we're going to pull this back, and then we're going to clear out kind of this area here so we have a spot to mount the cable and the pulley. We'll just trim out that area. Razor knife's going to work pretty easy. That's going to give us excess to that nice solid firewall. You take out a section about this size for now, and if we need to, we can always take out a little bit more. Now we'll take our cable, and we're going to feed it underneath our carpet and the padding. We'll get that to come out up here. It'll be up here so we can work with it. Scoot it, get that right there. Going to pull it right there. The break pedal's right there. Now, we'll grab the two pieces of our pedal clamp.You can see we've got several holes to choose from there. We're going to grab the two longer bolts. These, you want to use the 5/32 Allen bit in there or hex bit. See, one side has four holes; one side has a single hole. The single hole will pass one of our bolts through, both sides of the bracket. Then we've got a nylon lock nut that's going to be threaded onto that. And then on the other side, we want to do in the hole that's closest to the brake pedal. In this case, it's going to be the very first one there. Now we're going to begin to tighten that down evenly. For the nut, you'll need a three-eighths wrench. We want that position so that the open hole, when you press the pedal, travels pretty much straight to the firewall.We don't want it to tilt up or we don't want it to tilt down. Now to get our keeper in position here, the cable goes through the slot in the bracket. Bring your threads in and then we'll thread that flange nut up on the back side. We don't need to tighten it down at this point. We still might have to adjust it a little bit. We just want that to hold position. We can get our pulley mounted on the cable. You can see the cable itself. It's meant to travel right in that groove, so let's place that in there like that, and we've got our small pins. Those slide through and hold our cable in place. We'll slide that through. We've got our small clips. I have one on this side and one on the other side.Now we're going to bring our pulley up to the firewall. And like we said, we want a direct pull. So what we want is that pedal comes in for that cable to ride pretty freely inside of that pulley without it pulling up or down. You should have it straight behind our connection point. We'll mark two of our holes. That'll get it started. We can put our other ones in place. Now we'll take our small self-tapping screws. We'll use four of these to anchor our pulley. You want to be sure to use all four of them. Like I said, we're going to use the self-tapping screw to get our hole started on these first two. Then we'll use the pulley bracket as a guide for the second two.Now we'll bring our self-tapping screw through our bracket. Get these two installed. Check it one more time. Yeah, you can see that's going to work really well there. We'll put our other two into place. Now we'll get our cable stay mounted. It's going to clip right around the end of the cable there just like we did before. We'll get our holes marked and get them pre-drilled. It's going to make it a little bit easier on us in trying to hold everything up here at the same time. You're going to be using the same style self-tapping screw. The shorter one in the kit. Then we'll get our bottom one in place. We want about a quarter inch of free play in our cable there. And to adjust, we'll either bring our keeper in a little bit or out.Once you have it set where you want it, just tighten those two nuts down at the same time. Now we're going to move our carpet back up there in position and just take a look to see if we need to cut any of it out. It looks like really just a small little piece there and we should clear that pulley. Yeah, looks fine right there. See, we've got plenty of clearance there. That looks good. Now we'll be back underneath the vehicle. We're going to take care of connecting the four-pole wire that comes from our operating unit to the four-pole wire that we used for our towed vehicle wiring. Now there's a good length of this wire left, so regardless of where you ran this, you'll have the opportunity to connect to it.I'm going to continue taping my harness, and I'm going to separate that out. Now on your towed vehicle harness, you want to separate out your wires. We want to do this with a knife, but we want to be really careful not to actually damage our wires. Just the sheathing that's holding them together. I just want to mop this up. I'm going to trim off the excess four pole that we're not going to use and we'll separate these as well. Now we're going to strip the end of each one of these back. I like to just give them all a twist that way our strands will all stay together. Now we're going to cut into our towed vehicle wiring. We're going to strip those back on both sides.Now we'll take the green wire from the towed harness, the green wire from our operating unit. We're going to twist those together. Then we're going to add on part number DW05745; that's a heat shrink butt connector. We're using these rather than a standard butt connector, since we're making our connections on the outside of the vehicle. These are going to give us superior corrosion resistance. Now we'll do the same thing for the yellow, for the brown, and for the white. Now we'll connect to the other side of our wiring. I like to double those wires over. What that means is I'll strip them back because you can see a little bit further than normal.Going to twist them up really well and then double it back. That gives our butt connector a bigger piece of wire to hang onto. Now to shrink our connectors down, we want to use a heat source. We're going to be using a heat gun. We could also use a mini torch or even a lighter. This one will apply a little bit of heat at a time. We'll start to see those shrinking down around the wires. When they're fully shrank down, the wire looks like it magnifies. There'll be a little bit of clear gel that comes out of the end. Now we'll use a little bit of tape to tape that up and a couple of zip ties so you can secure off to that harness right there.Now I'm going to take my harness up just about the length of where the back side of that upper control arm is or where this plate comes down just to give you kind of a reference. Then I'm going to split my power and ground wire and my quarter-inch airline tubing away from my break-away switch. Now with those separated out, we'll take all three of them, and we're going to continue up over top of the frame rail here. Once we come up over the frame rail, you see, we tuck right in behind that heat shield to give us plenty of protection. Then we're going to take the airline tubing and the power and ground wire that we stripped off and we want that to go straight up toward the outside of the vehicle from this point. I'm going to just poke them up there so we could find them when we get up there.And we can continue to run the break-away wire up towards the front of the truck. Now there's a steering knuckle here that turns. So as you run your wire, be sure to avoid that. You don't want it to get twisted up in there. Just throw a zip tie around here on that wire loom to hold it up and in position. Now that wire and that air tube should come out right up here in this area. Just going to bring it through, make sure we get all of our slack. Once we get this up here, we'll create another anchor point on the wire loom here with a zip tie just to keep it from ever going down back underneath the vehicle. Now I'm going to continue on with my quarter-inch airline. We're going to right down along this loom and then back up this side.We'll be putting our tee in this area, so just want that to be pretty close there where we can get to it. We'll go right underneath that tube there. This is a vacuum wiring that we need to tap into with a check vale and a tee. You could see the sheathing on there. We're going to get this cut back. We can actually get in there to the hose and work. Usually if you kind of scrunch it up, it's a little bit easier to cut. Then we'll use a razor knife or a pair of scissors to get in there and cut through. And be very careful here not to damage your hose in any way. Just the cover over top of it. Now the straight section we have right here, we're going to cut that and put in our check valve.I'm going to make a nice flush cut there. Now there are arrows and also a red band on the check valve. The arrows points towards the engine side. We're going to be using the smaller of the two check valves and the kit. We'll get that slid right in the end of our vacuum on. Then we'll put the other side right here on this side. Now on the straight section right here, we're also going to trim. Now this time I'm going to take out maybe just over a quarter inch, maybe about three-eighths of line just like that. We're going to put out tee in place. Now this tee should be the one with the two smaller sides. Both of them have this to come off, but we're looking for the smaller ones there.Then we'll just push and turn at the same time, get that slid into position, and same thing on the other side. That can go back down. Rotate that tee so it kind of comes off the front side there. Now in the smaller side of our tee, we've got our quarter-inch tubing that needs to be slid all the way up on there as well just like that. And then on this end, we're going to slide in our airline tubing. Now we want to make sure we get it in about an inch and a half at least. All right. Our connection's made right there. Now we're going to split the red and black wire apart from one another. The black wire's going to be running right up here to this ground stud.I like to zip tie the wire off to the battery cable. That way, if they ever have to change the battery or anything like that, the wiring will go with it rather than I'm having to cut a bunch of zip ties or something. Let's see. That's a good length right there. Snip that off and strip it back. We'll add on one of the provided ring terminals. Get it crimped down. We'll remove that nut and place it right underneath that second tab. To remove this, we'll use a 10-millimeter socket. Put it down over the stud, that right back down on top, and then place our nut back on. Now the red wire's going to the positive side here, so let's pop this cover off.I'm just going to pull out and up. It'll come off. We'll set that aside for just a second. This time we're going to be connecting it right here. You can see there's a little cover on it. We've got another stud right here. That'll give us the power we're looking for. So let's route our wire up there. Again, keeping it zip-tied off anywhere we can. Now we're going to cut this one off a little bit shorter because we're going to be adding in a fuse holder. The fuse holder's provided with the kit. Looks just like this. We want to be sure to pull the fuse out. You see the 20-amp fuse inside. Pull that out and set it aside and that fuse will be very last thing we'll put in our fuse holder before we test out the system.We'll cut that maybe at the four or five o'clock position, strip back both ends of that and the red wire we brought up from the operating unit. Now we're going to be using another one of our heat shrink butt connectors and place that on a red wire from the operating unit. I'm also going to place the longer side of my fuse holder and that butt connector, and the other side, we'll add another ring terminal. We'll crimp it down on there. Then we'll get our butt connector shrink down. Use a fuse lighter, just a little bit of heat at a time. Same thing with the torch. You don't want to overheat it. I'm going to draw that down just a little bit there.We'll get it connected right there to that terminal. Lay it right underneath that connector and tighten that back down. Now just like we did before, we'll use a couple zip ties here. Just get that zip-tied off to that battery cable. Now that we're done running any of the wires outside of the vehicle here on the floorboard, it's time to get this sealed up really well. Now we're going to all the way around the outside. We're also going to fill this inside section, that way, we won't have any moisture, dirt, exhaust, fumes, anything like that making their way inside of our truck. All right. Just give that a little bit to harden. It'll be like brand new. Now we'll get the break-away portion mounted.Now our baseplate came with an attachment tab. You can see right here, it just bolts up to this upper portion of the drill and it hangs down. If yours doesn't have a tab like that, you could probably use a short bracket, part number 18140, and create something very similar to that out of it. Once you have this sided on your attachment point, this needs to come out through the drill so it's accessible. I'm just going to mark the sides and the bottom of where my breakaway should go, that way, I'll have a guide when I trim that drill out. With that marked out, I'm going to get my side cutters here and just make our initial cuts. We'll use a razor knife after we get done with this to get everything squared up.Once that's trimmed out, we'll place the break-away switch through our opening. Line up the hole in the switch with the hole in our bracket and we'll secure with the provided hardware. Now we'll get that tightened up. To do this, we'll use a seven-sixteenths-inch wrench and socket. At this point, you'll have two options. You can simply plug your break-away switch in. If you do it this way, I definitely tape that up a little bit. You can zip tie this up and out of the way kind of like we did our four-pole wire here, but you'll see you've got a lot of excess wire. If you're going to do it this way, I'd secure it off right here to this wire loom. What we're going to do is shorten this up. We're going to eliminate the plugs so we don't have any problems with corrosion.I'm going to bring my wire up here a little bit tighter, mark the area there, and we're going to snip off both the break-away side and our plug side. Now, we want to maintain the correctness of our wiring. So, our car wiring bare terminal here, in our case, is the wire on the right. So this is going to be our bare terminal and this will be our protected terminal. That's just going to allow us to get them hooked up the right way on our wiring. Now if we cut through just the outside layer here, this insulating material, that jacket that goes around the wire, we'll be able to pull that back. Just want to be careful not to cut or damage our actual wires inside.Once we have those exposed, we'll strip back the end of both sides. We're going to add on another heat shrink butt connector. This time we're going to be using part number DW05744. It's going to be the same type of butt connector we've used during the installation with the heat shrink just a little bit smaller to accommodate the smaller diameter wires. We're also going to strip back the wires on our break-away switch. We're going to connect the white wire to the left wire on the break-away switch and the black one to the right. Now at this point, we've got one more wire to bring up to our plug here, and that's going to be for our monitor light.If you didn't have that wired around, I'd go ahead and get these taped up. Make them look nice and keep them all together in one loop. Now the next thing we need to install is a stop light switch kit. This is from Roadmaster. Part number is RM-751467. The reason we need to utilize this is the brake pedal itself goes cold after the vehicle sits for a while. We need the monitor light wire to send a signal whenever this brake pedal moves down. We want a signal to come up to our monitor light and our buzzer that's going to be inside the RV. Our switch will send that signal for us. You simply apply 12-volt power to one side. The other side, we'll use for our monitor wire, which you can either run with the jumper to the back of the RV, or like we're going to do through the wiring system itself.So when our brake pedal's in its normal position, the plunger here will be held in. Whenever the braking system itself operates the brakes, that pedal moves down. When the pedal moves down, that plunger comes out and that's going to send a signal up to that light inside of our coach. Now once we have this installed, it's going to be virtually impossible for you to see how the adjustment works. It's basically just going to be the two nuts that we have here. If we loosen this nut up, it allows our plunger to come closer to the bracket. So that would be further away from our brake pedal. If we tighten that up, it brings the plunger in, and that'll press up against our brake pedal.We'll show you how to test it to make sure you're getting the appropriate signal, but that'll be your adjustment. The switch should activate with about an eighth to a quarter of an inch of break travel. Now the tab that has the 90-degree bend on it, the single hole is going to be the mounting point for our bracket to the vehicle. And to find the stud that you're going to mount that to, you want to go right up the brake pedal. Here you see the factory brake light switch. We want to go just to the left of that. Right here, you can see a stud. Use a 13-millimeter socket, and you want to remove that nut. With that removed, our bracket goes right over the studs, and then we want to replace the nut, tighten it back down.You can see the bracket in position. A we push our brake pedal, the plunger comes out. As we release it, goes right back up into the spot there. Now we're ready to connect our wiring to our switch. I'm going to be using two 10-foot pieces of 16-gauge wire. You have a couple pieces that come with the brake light kit switch. They're not going to be long enough most likely. One of these we need to go to power. The other one needs to go to either the front of the vehicle, or in our case, we're going to be wiring it directly to our vehicle plug. We're going to be using a couple more heat shrink butt connectors. These are part number DW05743.Now we'll strip back the wires on our brake light switch here, and those are going to go to the other side of those butt connectors. Now, we'll shrink these down just like we have with all of our other heat shrink connectors. Now to keep these up and out of the way, we're going to right over top of the nonmoving portion of the steering column there and we'll throw a zip tie around it to keep that secure. Now we can run right up to the large grommet located kind of right on the firewall behind the parking brake here. We want to make just a small cut on the inside here, also on the outside, and we'll pass through a thicker piece of wire, maybe a coat hanger or airline tubing to draw our wires.We'll pull a little bit through grommet here on the outside. We'll tape our wires off from the inside and pull them on through. I'm going to use a couple zip ties to secure these off here. Now with our wires secured off there so it won't move around, we'll use some silicone sealant. We're going to patch that grommet back up that we pulled that through. We'll continue to run our wires. I like to go along the outside edge of the fender well here. There's a channel that a lot of power wires run through, so it'll kind of allow us to do the same thing and keep our wiring protected. Now once we bring that all the way up, we should come out right here just in front of the power distribution center.There's a wire loom right here at the corner. It's a good idea to zip tie these off. Now one of the wires, it doesn't matter which one, we're going to bring around the bottom of that power distribution center, which is right here, and we'll zip tie it off to the red cable that comes up inside of it. We'll trim off our wire to length. We want to strip that back. And to make our connection, we're going to be using a Curt fuse holder. We're going to have a smaller section here. That's going to connect to our power stud right here. The other side that's going to go to the wire that we trimmed coming up from the switch. Now if you haven't already chose a wire to use, it doesn't matter which one you pick.We're going to use another one of our heat shrink butt connectors there and also to the wire from the switch. Now on the other side of that fuse holder, we're going to add on a ring terminal. We're going to use one five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. It's available on our website. That's crimped on, open our cover there. We'll use the 13-millimeter socket to remove the nut on the stud. Place a ring terminal down over and then we'll replace that nut. Now we'll get this connector shrink down and we'll zip tie it off and secure up any excess. Now in our fuse holder, we'll slide in our 10-amp fuse. We're going to cap that off.Let's test it out. Now to test out, we'll just be using a regular test light. You want to ground that off to the negative stud on the battery. I want to touch that to the wires inside. Now we'll somebody in the car press the brake pedal and our light should come on, and then when they release it, should go back off. On and off, just like that. Now you can run this like we said up to the front of the vehicle and use the pigtail to connect to your motor home, but again, we're going to be going to the six-pole plug on the front of the vehicle. Now on this side of the switch wire, we'll just bring directly down from the battery distribution center right up there. We'll run that through the hole in the six-pole plug booth.We'll mark the link there. Clip it off and strip it back. You want these to connect to the center stud. And the most typical application, that's going to be the one for your auxiliary or for your brake signal on the six-pole. With all the wires that we need running to the back of our plug, we'll get the silicone put all around there. Place our boot on and fill the back of our boot with a little silicone. Now you really want to get this squeezed between all the connectors there and all the different wires we've got. Now we'll get our volts put in our six pole here. We'll put that bracket on the back to get it secured in place. Now we'll use our seven-sixteenths-inch wrench and socket to get our bracket tightened down.Now we're going to be using the factory brake control wire here on our E-450 chassis and that's going to be located right behind this panel. Just want to pull out on it and release the clips. You may need to open out on this bottom edge just a little bit. Once that's out of the way, typically, it's plugged in here, but you'll see that little tab's already been broken. Now the wire we want to use on our harness, it's right here. It's going to be this lighter blue wire. Now let's say in the future you plan on using a brake controller setup, you can simply use one of the plugin adapters we have that will plug in here and it'll allow you to have extra wire hanging off this side.We've confirmed with our customer that he has no future intentions of using a brake controller, so we're going to cut that wire right there. Then we'll splice a longer piece of wire in so we can run it down to both our light and our buzzer. Then we can add on one of the blue butt connectors that came with our InvisiBrake kit. I'm going to crimp that down. Now as an extension here, we're going to use a piece of 16-gauge wire. You may have some left over in your InvisiBrake kit, so feel free to use that. If not, it's available on the website, 16-1-1. Crimp that into the other side. Make sure we've got a good connection. Then we'll feed our other end of our wire down kind of over towards where the steering wheel is.We'll feed plenty of this down in there so we can find it. The next step's going to be finding the position to put your light. The brakes are on sticker which is going to fit in behind there. We're going to go kind of right over in this area of our dashboard. Depending on your coach, you may have to do it in a different location. You just want to find something that doesn't have anything back behind. Just want a normal thickness piece of plastic here. We'll mark that location and we're going to drill a five-sixteenth-inch hole. To remove the panel, if you are working on an E-450, you just pull out at the top. We want to confirm in behind there that we don't have any clearance issues.Now with our hole drilled, we're going to clean off that area with a little bit of rubbing alcohol. See that little center point, we pull out the stick, and then we want to center the sticker right over to that hole matching the two holes up. Now we'll take the two wires of our light and pass that through and press our LED all the way in flush to the dash. Now in the back side, we've got the rectangular shaped keeper. It's got a little arch in it. We want the arch to face away from the dash. We'll slide it over our wires, also over our LED, and we'll push that all the way down against the back side of our dashboard. That'll hold that in place for us.Now we're going to pull the wire down that we ran from our plug. Now once we've pulled out slack there, you just pop this panel back in place. We'll leave a little slack in our wire, and we're going to cut it off long enough so it'll come over here to our light. Then we'll take the buzzer which looks like this and we're going to connect that with the red wire from our light. Just twist the two of those together and that's going to go to the other side of that butt connector. So when that signal comes through, either your monitor wire, if you did it that route or your brake controller wire. The way we set it up, both the buzzer and the light are going to get power.Now we'll take the white wires from both of those, connect them with a butt connector just like we did the two red ones. Now to the other side of that butt connector, we'll add piece of wire to extend that. Again, just staying with the 16-gauge wire. We're going to run that to a ground source. Now for our ground source, we're going to use that bolt right there that goes right into the body, so that should give us a great ground. We'll use a 10-millimeter socket to remove it. We won't need a great deal of additional wire. Just a short piece there. I'm going to strip that off about twice as far as normal. Twist it and fold it over and we're going to add another five-sixteenths ring terminal like we used before on the truck side.Place our bolt back through and resecure it. Now we'll just use a couple of zip ties and we want to get everything kind of cleaned up, zip-tied up out of the way here. And now, we're ready to put our panel back up into position there. Let's click it in all the way across the top. You see, we've got a little bit of excess here. We'll just zip tie that up and out of the way. The last thing we'll do here on the truck side is going to cut our brake clamp brackets off, so that when you put your feet on the brake, you're not hitting those. You're just going to use a rotary cutoff wheel. Protected the carpet with a little bit of cardboard there.If you can get to them, you can also cut those bolts off, but those aren't really going to offer much interference. We just want to touch that up a little bit just like that. Now the last step before we test the system will be to place in our 20-amp fuse in our fuse holder and cap that off. With everything working and adjusted properly, that's going to complete our installation of the Roadmaster InvisiBrake, part number RM-8700 on our 2017 Ram 1500 Rebel.

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