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Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect Installation - 2013 Ford Fiesta

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How to Install the Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect on a 2013 Ford Fiesta


Speaker 1: Today in this 2013 Ford Fiesta, we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster automatic battery disconnect with switch for towed vehicles with supplemental braking systems, part number RM-766. Here's what our battery disconnect looks like installed. What this battery disconnect is going to allow us to do is disconnect our battery in our vehicle without using any tools. If our battery needs to be disconnected when we're flat towing our vehicle, such as on this Fiesta, we'll be able to do that with a simple press of a button. When we want to drive it again, all we got to do is flip the switch back down to drive, our battery is reconnected, and we can safely start out vehicle.You know everything is working properly when your car is in drive mode and your radio comes on, and you have power. But when you put it in tow mode, you lose everything.

The reason you're going to want this is because it's really simple and easy to use. Anybody can do it. You don't have to pop the hood every time you want to tow your car, or drive it again. For this particular flat tow setup, we used a Roadmaster EZ2 baseplate kit with removable arms, a new Roadmaster four-diode universal wiring kit for towed vehicles with a seven-wire to six-wire straight cord, the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO supplemental braking system, the Roadmaster automatic battery disconnect with switch for towed vehicles. We also used the Roadmaster straight safety cables, and for our two bar we used a Roadmaster Falcon All Terrain.

Depending upon your motor home, you may or may not a high low adapter to ensure that the tow bar is at level height. We have many different options available for you on our website.Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show how to get it installed. To begin our install, we're going to go ahead and remove our headlight on the driver's side. In order to that, we'll have three T30 torque screws. We'll have two at the front and then one at the back.

Now we'll lift up on our headlight assembly. Now with our headlight loose, we have access to all of our connectors. We'll have a couple like this, where there's a black plastic tab on you can press and pull to separate. We'll unclip the wiring harness as well just by pulling it away. We have a gray one towards the back.

Press on the tab, pull to separate. Then we have the one here at the front. It's kind of orangish-brown. Press on the tab at the front and pull to separate.Now we can take our headlight assembly, set it aside where it won't get damaged. Now with our headlight out of the way, in our case we also have our fascia off because we're doing this as we installed our baseplate. It's just a little bit easier for us that way. We need to find a location to mount our solenoid. Right here on the front of our fuse box will be a great spot for it. It's not in the way and it will easily allow us to connect our cables to our battery. Put it right like that and we'll secure it in place with the provided self-tapping screws. That's what it looks like secured into place.Now off the front of our connector here, we have four wires: a blue, a red, a black, and a yellow. We don't need the yellow one, so we're gonna just cut it off. Our black and our red wire are already stripped back. Now we'll strip back the insulation from our blue wire. Now this kit comes with standard butt connectors, but because this is exposed to the elements a little bit, I'm gonna use some heat shrink butt connectors, which we have available on our website. These are for 22 to 18 gage wire. The reason I'm using a heat shrink is because once they're shrunk down, they will seal up nicely and protect them from the elements. So we'll stick it on our wire and crimp it in place. We'll do the same for our three wires.Now we'll take our gray triplex wire. It's triplex because there's three wires inside. And we'll cut back the outer installation to expose our three wires. And we'll strip back the insulation from the three wires now. Our white wire will go to our blue wire and we'll crimp that in place. Our black wire will go to the black wire and the red wire will go to the red wire. And here's what it looks like with our connections made. Now we use a heat gun, which we have available on our website, to shrink down our butt connectors. You'll want to use a heat gun over a lighter because this will provide a source of indirect heat, not a direct flame, which won't damage the connector.We went ahead and routed our gray wire alongside of our battery between the battery and the fuse box, and it goes through a hole in the firewall where our grommet is. It came out through this hole here. This is the grommet that we removed. It simply pulls out of the firewall. If you have a manual transmission you won't have this grommet; this is where your clutch pedal and master cylinder will bolt to. Throughout of the wire, following the wiring harness, and secure with a couple zip ties over towards your center console area.Now we need to find a location to mount or switch. Because of space constraints on this vehicle and an airbag, we're gonna mount it on the side of our center console in this general area right here. This will keep it out of the way while driving but yet still be readily accessible. So we'll remove this plastic fastener here by unscrewing the center core of it. Then we can grab the panel and start pulling it towards us. With our panel removed, we now have access to where we're gonna drill our hole. We're gonna do it right in this area here, making sure we don't drill in to any of our HVAC components like our vaporator core right here. So I'll make a small pilot hole and we'll enlarge that to the size indicated in the instructions.Now we'll take our nut that's screwed on the back of the switch, make sure that the teeth portion faces the end of our wire, and we'll slide this down the wire. We'll now take the end of the wire and come through the hole on the back side of the panel. And we'll pull it through. We'll now cut off our excess wire and we'll remove the gray outer covering just like we did in the front. Okay, with our gray installation stripped back, we'll now strip back all the wires. And on these wires we'll crimp down our red terminals. Now we'll take our switch. The center terminal will get our white wire. The red wire could go to either terminal here. The only one that matters is the white one. And the black wire will go to the remaining terminal. And this is what it looks like with our connections made inside the vehicle.Now we can put our switch into position through the hole, making sure that the rocker side faces up and down. And we'll thread our nut onto the back side of it to hold it in place. Now we'll reinstall our side panel for the center console. We've gone ahead and disconnected the negative terminal of our battery simply by loosening the ten-millimeter nut and pulling the cable off. Now we'll open the cover over our positive battery terminal to find the nut right here. We need to remove this nut. This nut's a 13 millimeter. We'll now lift our battery cable and fuse off that stud. We'll now take our cable that's labeled battery post from our solanoid and we'll route that over to our positive battery terminal and place that over the stud where that nut was where we removed, and we'll reinstall our nut.Now we'll take our other cover from our solanoid. It's the one labeled battery cable. Take our heat shrink tubing, slide it over the cable, and we're gonna connect this to our factory battery cable. We'll do that by placing a bolt through the factory cable, place our washer underneath the bolt, place the inaudible 00:09:45 cable on, place another washer on, and then we'll thread the nut on. Now we'll tighten down that bolt and nut.We've gone ahead and slid our heat shrink tubing over our connection point that goes to our factory terminal. Now we'll shrink it down with our heat gun. Now we'll take our cover here and we'll fold it back over our cable, and this'll help push it away from our battery post here; that way we don't have to worry about it ever making contact.Now we'll take our 7 1/2 amp fuse and install it on the side where our cable is where it goes directly to our battery. It'll go right in the slot right here. Now we'll reinstall the negative cable on our battery. Now we need to figure out which position of our switch and which position is tow. So we'll press down the switch first. We don't hear the solanoid engage and our dome light is still on. We flip up, we hear the solanoid engage, and our dome light shuts off.Now that we've determined the up switch disconnects our battery, we'll put our tow sticker there on top of the switch. That way whoever drives our vehicle knows what position that has the switch in. That leaves our drive sticker on the bottom.And that completes our look at and installation of the Roadmaster automatic battery disconnect with switch for towed vehicles with supplemental braking systems, part number RM-766 on this 2013 Ford Fiesta.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
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Kathleen M
Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Andrew S
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Andrew S
Employee Brent H
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Brent H
Employee Shane H
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Shane H
Employee Robert C
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Robert C
Employee Conner L
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Conner L
Employee David F
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David F
Employee Ryan G
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Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
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Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
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Bradley B
Employee Zach D
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Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
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Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
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Michael B
Employee Jacob H
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Jacob H
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Aidan B
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