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Roadmaster EZ4 Base Plate Kit Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Spark

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How to Install the Roadmaster EZ4 Base Plate Kit on a 2017 Chevrolet Spark

Today in our 2017 Chevrolet Spark we'll be having a look at and installing the Roadmaster EZ for base plate kit with removable arms. Part number RM-523185-4. Here's what our base plate looks like installed. As you can see it's nice and tucked up behind our fascia. The only part you really see sticking out in front of the fascia is our safety chain attachment points right here on either side of our license plate. That gives you your attachment point here for your electrical connector, for your towed vehicle lighting system, or a charge align, or anything of that nature that's electrically related. We have a nice attachment point right here to mount a breakaway switch, which we've utilized here today.

On the far corners of our base plate on each end we have a round receiver end for our removable arms, which will allow us to attach our tow bar to. To install these you just slide them in at a horizontal angle, push, twist 90 degrees. Same on both sides. This will allow you to attach your tow bar so you can flat tow your vehicle behind your RV. What I really like about this base plate compared to other base plates for other cars or other base plates for this particular vehicle is the fact that it utilizes existing holes on the vehicle. You just have to enlarge them a little bit, but there's no other drilling required.

It makes for a quick and easy installation. Now that we've gone over some of the features of our roadmaster base plate, we'll show you how to get it installed on our 2017 Chevrolet Spark. With our hood open we'll find two 10 millimeter bolts at each corner by the edge of our headlight. Go ahead and remove these. Just to the inside of each of those bolts we'll find two plastic clips by the hood latch. We use a screwdriver or a turn panel tool.

We'll pop up the center section and the outer section. All right, now we're on our driver side wheel well. There's two plastic clips just like we had on the top. Remove these too and we'll repeat the same process for the passenger side. Underneath our vehicle now we have three 10 millimeter bolts that hold our fascia to the sub frame. We'll remove these.

All right we're back on our driver's side now. We'll pull back our fender liner here a little bit. Right here we'll find a seven millimeter bolt. We'll remove that. We'll go repeat the same process for the passenger side. Now we'll reach inside our fascia and unplug our fog light on each side of the vehicle. There's a gray tab on the top of it. We'll slide that back towards the connector and then push down on our orange tab on the top. Underneath our vehicle, on each side we'll find two seven millimeter screws that attach our fascia to our fender liner. Go ahead and remove those. We'll do the same on the other side. Now if an extra set of hands, we'll grab our fascia, pull it away from the fender, and we'll remove it from our vehicle. We'll set it aside out of the way where it won't get damaged. On the bottom of our bumper beam, on each corner we have a plastic fastener that holds the air dam up. We'll remove these fasteners on both sides. On our driver's side, behind our air dam here, there's a wiring harness that's clipped into it. We'll un clip the wiring harness. Just like that. Now we need to trim off the top half of our air dam on both sides. It's coming right about here where this bride is. Where it changes angles. Use a pair of tin snips, utility knife, whatever you have. Just make sure you don't cut the wire that you removed. We'll do the same on passenger side. On the passenger side of our vehicle we have this air conditioning line right here. Goes through our AC condenser. It's clipped on to the side of our frame rail here. We need to un clip this. We'll just come in behind it, pop it loose. On each side of our vehicle on our frame rail, we have two existing holes. We need to drill through both of these holes with a half inch drill bit. Once you go through the outer layer, we'll go through the inner layer as well with the drill bit. We want to be careful when we go through because as you can see, there's a radiator hose right here and an air conditioning line. I'll make sure we don't puncture either one of those. Now that we're through both layers on this first hole we'll repeat the same process for the other three holes. On our passenger side, we have this hole on the sub frame. We have the same hole on the sub frame on the driver's side too, but on the driver's side we have the clearer access to use our drill to come up from the bottom and come up through the top of the sub frame. We'll take our AC hose here and just bend it slightly out of the way so we don't have to worry about drilling through it when we come up from the bottom. Let's use our half inch drill bit again and enlarge this hole. We'll repeat the same process for the driver's side. We'll take two of our half in bolts that are four inches long and our lock washers, and we'll put some red loctite on these bolts. Make sure we use red loctite on all of our bolts that we're installing. We have loctite available on our website for purchase if you need some. We'll take our bracket here, our flat edge will face towards the front of the vehicle. Put your bolts through. Now on the inside of our frame rail where the bolts go through we'll put our two half inch plate washes on and our two nuts. Leave this all finger tight for now because we need to adjust everything later. I'll repeat the same process on the other side. All right now we'll take our main body of our base plate, slide it over our sub frame here. We'll push our base plate into position. We'll line up our bracket on the inside of the brackets that we already installed. Take two of our half inch bolts here. Go through the base plate and into the upper bracket. Repeat the same process on the other side. Slide on our lock washer. Threat on a nut. We're using our inch and a quarter long bolts here. These are the shortest bolts we have in our kit. We'll repeat the same process on the other side. We'll take our three inch long half inch bolt and our half inch plate washer again. Slide it on. Come up from the bottom of our sub frame through the hole we enlarged. Go up through the bottom edge of our base plate. Drop on our lock washer and then our nut. I'll repeat the same process on the other side. All right with all of our hardware now in place we'll not snug it all down using a three quarter inch socket and wrench. With all of our hardware snug down now, we'll torque it to the specifications found in the instructions. Now that we got our base plate fully torqued down, this is a good opportunity while we still have our fascia off. If we're going to be using a braking system on our vehicle, or towed vehicle lighting system, or adding a vehicle charge line on to our vehicle it's a good time to do it with the fascia off so you can run all your wires. Now we need to trim our fascia in order to get it to fit around our base plate. We're going according to the instructions on this and whatever modifications we need to make, we'll make as necessary. In our case, since we have a break away switch here, we would have to have trimmed out more of our area down here only really leaving this section right here, and then a smaller section over here of the grill. I really want it to look good so what we did is we just left the top layer in place and one here on each corner on the second row, and took the rest of the bottom out. This won't have any effect the vehicle at all, but it gives it a cleaner look with the base plate in place. Let's go ahead and snap our bumper cover back in place here. Do the same on both sides. While we have our car down low we'll just go ahead and put our fasteners in at the top. With our fasteners in place up top, we'll go in our wheel wells now. With our fog lights plugged back in we'll just go ahead and reinstall all the fasteners we removed. That completes our look at an installation of the Roadmaster EZ for base plate kit with removable arms part number RM-523185-4 on our 2017 Chevrolet Spark.

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