Roadmaster XL Base PLate Kit Installation - 2011 Chevrolet Equinox

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How to Install the Roadmaster XL Base PLate Kit on a 2011 Chevrolet Equinox


Today on this 2011 Chevrolet Equinox we're going to install part number 3160-1B from Roadmaster. This is the Roadmaster XL baseplate kit with removable arms. To install a baseplate we need to temporarily remove the front fascia or bumper-cover. Just underneath the hood there's a series of fasteners we have to remove. We have a plastic fastener right here. Take the flat screwdriver, there's a little slot where you can put it in, and pull out the center, and work it loose. The trim panel tool works just a little bit better.

Right in front of the headlight here towards the inside, and there's one on the other side we need to remove. There are four torque screws that we have to remove. You'll need a T20 torque bit. We'll go ahead and loosen up this panel as well since our bumper cover fits underneath it. There's one on each side we can do. Now we need to go down to the fender wells. Next we have to remove a screw that's in this pocket right here. We'll need a 7mm socket to remove it.

We'll do one on each side. Back on the driver's side we'll remove these two screws here with the same torque bit we used before. Two plastic fasteners. All right, that will get our fender well loose on our driver side. Let's go do the same thing on the passenger side. On the very bottom in front of the wheels we'll remove these two screws here with the 7mm socket.

We're done with the passenger side, we'll do the same thing on the driver's side. At this point we can go ahead and remove the bumper cover. It's a good idea to have an extra set of hands to hold one side while you release the clips on each side of the vehicle. We'll go ahead and pull away from the vehicle. There's a series of snaps. And also goes underneath the headlight a little bit.

All right. After I loosen it up we can go ahead and pull away and put our bumper cover in a safe location. We have to remove the bumper core here. Before we do that we need to release the wire harness that's ran behind it. The plastic clips are on the outside here. We'll just simply squeeze it with some pliers and push them back through. Here's our wire harness loosened up. Let's just let that stay out of our way for now. Now I'll go ahead and remove the bumper core. This will not be reinstalled. However it is a good idea to hang onto it if you ever take the baseplate back off, and you'll have this back in its place. We use a 13mm socket to remove these three screws. This is our driver side, we'll do the same thing on the passenger side and remove it. Back to our wire harness. We'll go ahead and loosen up from the frame right here, so we'll just go ahead and use our trim panel tool and just work it out. If it breaks you can easily just zip-tie it back when we're done. That was the driver side, and here's the passenger side. Due to manufacturing variances some vehicles may have only three bolts with a forth hole with no threads that exist. In this case we can either tap the hole or ignore it. It does not impact the bracket's integrity one way or the other. If you want to make threads for this you can use a thread tap, and the baseplate does come with the hardware necessary to install in here. Here's our bolt, and here's our thread tap. Easy to match up the threads. We'll go ahead and spray our lubricant and use our thread tap. Spray it down, clean it out a little bit. We'll take our bolt and try it out. Perfect. The thread tap we used was a 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch. Now we're ready to install our bracket or baseplate. We'll go ahead and put it up to the holes that we just removed the bolts from and made some new threads. We'll sneak it underneath the wire here. It's going to sit on this edge right here on both sides. We're going to first push up a little bit, and we'll use our new bolts on the threads we just made just to hold it in place for us. This will hold it for us. We're going to take our bolts that removed earlier and reinstall them with some lock-tight. The thread-locker we're using is part number LT37420. The lock-tight thread locker 262. We'll go ahead and install our bolt. We'll get all these started first, and then we'll tighten them down for good. Let's go back up to our new bolt. Our fastener will get a lock washer and a flat washer to match. Just start it, enough to hold its shape. We're done with our driver side, we'll do the same thing on the passenger side. With everything loosely installed, I like to try to even it out on a frame rail. If you've got the slack, sometimes you do, sometimes you don't. We'll go ahead and tighten down the bolts. You can also use your 13mm socket on this bolt as well. We'll torque them down as best in the instructions. Next we need to install this lower brace. There's two of them, and they're symmetrical so there's not a left and right to them. It'll attach here in these two holes and also in this location here. We need to remove this factory bolt right here. When we work with the suspension and the sub-frame, so it's a good idea to support it with a jack. 18mm socket to remove this bolt. To install our lower brace we're going to need our new bolt with a lock washer. It'll go through and we'll add a spacer to it, and then some lock-tights to your threads. We'll go ahead and loosely install it back into place. Just enough to hold its shape. To connect here we use a short, half-inch bolt with some lock-tight, a lock washer, and a nut. Do that twice over. Enough to hold its shape. We can go ahead and tighten these down and torque them down as well for this bracket. Tighten down a new bolt we'll need a 22mm socket. We'll go and tighten these down with a 3 quarter-inch wrench and socket. We'll torque these down as specified in the instructions. We're done with our driver side. Let's go do the same thing on the passenger side. Now we're going to install this brace here. This goes in the top. This is going to bolt to the top of the baseplate here, or bracket. It's going to fit up against an existing hole inside here where we have to install this plate. To do that we need to go ahead and loosen up the washer bottle right here. Using a 10mm socket we'll loosen up this nut and this bolt. We've got our bottle loosened up now. The horn is a little bit in the way too, so above and beyond the instructions I'm going to go ahead and remove the horn. Put that back up when we're done. We'll repeat this for the other side. To put our bracket in place push our wire out of the way and then our line here, we'll have to bend as needed to make clearance for our bracket. Just a little bit at a time, and do a test fit. We don't want our line rubbing on this upper brace here. Just a little bit more, and I think we'll be good. Same half-inch bolts as before. Put them into place with a half-inch lock washer and nut. Now we'll take our plate here and slide it in the back and line up with our hole. We'll use another half-inch bolt, lock washer, and nut. This bolt here is going to be a little bit longer than the ones we've used previously, so make sure you don't get these mixed up. The length on this bolt is an inch and a half, and the other ones we used so far we're inch and a quarter. With our hardware loosely installed we can tighten these down as well and torque them down as specified in the instructions. Let's go ahead and put the horn back into place, and go ahead and tighten it down. We'll repeat this for the other side. We'll put the washer bottle back in place as well. Next we need to go ahead and install an identical brace on the passenger side. Let's go ahead and move the horn out of our way. We're going to go ahead and proceed to put our bracket into place. Remember the inch and a quarter bolts right here. There you go. We'll go ahead and tighten these down as well. We'll torque them down as specified in the instructions. Our wiring we had loosened up earlier we'll go ahead and secure it to the baseplate with some zip ties that come with the kit. We'll go ahead and cut off the tails from our zip ties. One other note is that you may want to take some time out to go ahead and route your wires, push it back through there, and have plenty of slack so nothing's being pinched. We did that on both sides. Let's go ahead and work on our bumper cover. We need to remove this piece of foam material right here. There's a screw here that uses a square head bit, but if you can find a flat head screwdriver you can get into the corners maybe just enough to undo it. In fact if you get it stated enough you could probably do the rest of it with your fingers. Let's go over to the one side here. We just need to squeeze that clip in. We'll use a pair of needle nose and we can pull up the foam and get it started. There's one more clip on the other side. Let's pull out on the bottom here. It should come loose. There it goes. We'll keep that with the bumper structure if it ever needs to be reinstalled. We're also going to have to trim the inside edge of the plastic right here. We'll start from here and just follow all the way across and up. We'll go ahead and remove all of this on both sides. I'm going to use a rotary tool for this. You can also do the same thing with a fine-tooth blade from a hacksaw as well. Now we can go ahead and put our bumper cover into place. The baseplate will fit through the opening we made just a little bigger. See how it fits underneath the baseplate We'll just go ahead and rotate it up into place. It may help to push up form the bottom to get it started. All snap it back in. With the bumper cover snapped back up into position we'll go ahead and reinstall the fasteners. Basically we're going to start from the bottom and work our way back up in the reverse order we took it apart. We'll get the metal fasteners in. We can go ahead and put in our plastic fasteners. We'll go ahead and tighten down our metal fasteners for good. We'll go ahead and reinstall the fasteners. Put the remaining screws in. Let's go ahead and close the hood. One of the last few things we need to do is go ahead and install the safety cables. Here's our safety cable and a quick link. We'll put those two together, put it through this top hole here. We'll go ahead and tighten it down. Give it a quick turn with the wrench. One side's done, we'll do the same thing on the other side. We'll go ahead and install the bracket arm now. This goes into place just like that. Take our pin and install from the side here. Oops. There you go. Then put in your clip. Then we'll do the other side. This will go up to your quick disconnect for your tow bar. We don't have that currently right now, so we can just simply either leave this off or we can go ahead and zip tie it to a bracket as well. Now we're finished at four with the Roadmaster XL Baseplate kit, part number 3160-1B from Roadmaster on our 2011 Chevrolet Equinox. .


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