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Roadmaster XL Base Plate Kit Installation - 2012 Ford Edge

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How to Install the Roadmaster XL Base Plate Kit on a 2012 Ford Edge


Today, on this 2012 Ford Edge, we're going to show you the Roadmaster XL Base Plate Kit with Removable Arms, part number 4408-1. This is what the base plate looks like when it's installed on the Ford Edge. While you can see, when it's not being towed, the receiver ends here on passenger side and of course one on the driver side. It does require some cutting around the plastic fascia in the grill right here. Other than that, there's very little to show on our base plate. This tab right here with the hole is designed for your safety chain cables.

This is a short length of cable here that will horse out to your towbar. It also comes with a quick link for that. We'll go ahead and put those together. Then we'll go ahead and put our receiver arm in. This uses a conventional pin and clip assembly.

Of course, it does have provision for lock to lock these into place as well on the inside edge. We out our passenger side assembled. Let's go ahead and do the driver side. We'll get a better overall view of how everything looks. Now at this point, our base plate is ready for installation for the extra components that will be needed to put your favorite towbar. Next, we'll go ahead and show you how we installed it.

To install a base plate, we're going to have to remove the front bumper cover. We're going to start right underneath the hood and then work our way from the top down to the bottom. First off, we got these two screws here and here to remove, using a 10 mm socket. Then we have one, two, three, four plastic fasteners we have to remove using a Phillips head screwdriver. We'll just drop the screwdriver into it, and we'll unscrew the centers.

We need to work out the bases and we're good to go. We've got three more to go. Now our two screws with 10 mm socket. Then we'll go down to the fender well. We're looking at the passenger side. We have three bolts we have to remove using 5.5 mm socket. Then there's one plastic rivet we have to remove down towards the bottom right here. We'll just take a flat bit screwdriver to catch the inside edge, and then just pry it open until you get it apart. It does help to have a trim panel tool to make things a little bit easier to pull apart. Now there's two more screws for our fender liner that are hidden behind this piece of trim right here. It's going to be this screw and this screw, once again with a 5.5 mm socket. Then the whole fender wheel liner comes loose. This was the passenger side. We're going to repeat the same process over on the driver side. Now we'll move to the very bottom of the vehicle. Once again underneath this piece of trim right here, in the center will be three more plastic rivets we have to remove. This vehicle has fog lights, so we need to go ahead and just pull open our fender well here and reach in and disconnect the electrical connector right here. Easy to remove. There's a little tab right here. You push down and pull apart. That was our passenger side. We'll do the same thing over on driver side. At this point, we can go ahead and take off the bumper cover. I put two screwdrivers in top here to help hold it for me while I get the sides loosened up. It's really a good idea to go ahead and get an extra set of hands to help do this. All we got to do is back to your fender well, back against your passenger side. Go ahead and loosen the plastic. It just unsnaps when you loosen it up. Eventually this bumper part right here, we'll have to remove. It's also supports part of the radiator support here as well. Now would be a good time to go ahead and put some kind of support underneath the edge of the radiator right here. Now, we need to do some trimming also for our base plate that's going to fit over here. We're going to have to cut into our plastic, and also we're going to remove a little bit of material from these veins right here as well. What's involved in this trimming is basically about from this edge here on over, so about a half an inch, all the way around to the outside edge. We're also going to trim these veins right here. We're just going to go right down to the center part. We're not going to go all the way through, but just down this leading edge right here. We have to remove all three. To make our cut, we're using a rotary tool, basically a bit that will go through wood or plastic. Now we have our driver side done. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Don't be surprised. You may have to go ahead and do a little bit of extra trimming once we have our base plate installed as well. Now we can start working on the bumper here. We need to remove this nut in this well right here and this bolt on top. We're using a 10 mm socket for these guys. Same thing on passenger side. We have about six more bolts to remove. We'll remove this bolt here on the bottom and two on top. This is the driver side. We'll repeat the same thing over on the passenger side. To take these bolts out, we're using a 13 mm socket. Now we got two more nuts to remove with a 10 mm socket. It has to be a deep well. Now we should be able to take this bumper core off, mindful of the wires and stuff. Now, looking over on our passenger side here, this little tab right here has to be removed. Now, this is a little bit on the thick side to cut with tin snips. We we're able to make a little nick in it, but we're going to use a cutting wheel to make things a little more efficient. At this point, we can go ahead and put our base plate onto the ends of the frame. Now you may also have to do some extra trimming on the side here. You will probably have to go through a series of test fits to do this. You can see how it interferes right here, so we'll just cut out more of a softer section on top to make room for it. It looks like we're going to just have to go ahead and go all the way back to this edge right here on top. We're going to use some tin snips for this part. Go ahead and put it back into place. Looks like we got a lot more room for the base plate. Make sure the wires aren't pinched. Now with our base plate on the frame just loosely sitting there, we can see how we can get these back into position. We'll just go ahead and just trim out as necessary wherever it's hitting at this point. Once you get the whole assembly here to line up with the bolt hole, then we should be good to go. When we're ready to install some bolts, we'll also use some red Loctite on them. We'll be using part number LT37420, Loctite Threadlocker 262. The first bolts we're going to install will be the 6 mm bolt with a lock washer and a flat washer. This will go through the louver assembly, through our base plate, and then back into its original hole in the radiator support. Now to help line it up, we got to push up from the bottom as well. Before we do that, let's go ahead and put just a little bit of Loctite on there. Once we get it lined up, we'll tighten it down with a 10 mm socket. One side's turned. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process on the other side. Let's move back to the top frame here over on the passenger side. We'll go ahead and reinstall the factory bolts that we took out of the top. We'll also use some Loctite on these bolts as well. Now, we're definitely going to leave all our hardware loose until we have them all installed. Then we can go ahead and tighten them down. We'll still have to move the base plate around to help get all the bolts lined up. Now, there's a new bolt that goes in the bottom of the frame here. It's a new 10 mm bolt with a flat washer and a lock washer. That's the passenger side. One more time on the driver side. Now we can reinstall the factory bolts right here. Once again, we'll add a little Loctite to them and put them in place. At this point, we can go ahead and tighten down and torque the main bolts, the two on top and one on the bottom. Our new bolt on the bottom uses a 17 mm socket. Now we got some more hardware to install going into the side of the frame here and here. Now there's pre-existing holes, but we need to use our base plate as a guide to help us drill out the existing holes up to a half an inch. Now you'll notice there's a gap between the frame and the base plate. It does come with these spacers to go in between. Now you have two different sizes that come with it. Use the size that makes the tightest fit. You may end up having to grind this down just a little bit to make it fit in as well. There is some manufacturing variances on the vehicle. We'll take this. It's a little bit of a tight fit, but I'm just going to tap into place and install our hardware. You can use an old screwdriver to help maneuver it. We'll use the long half-inch bolts with a lock washer and some Loctite. Run it through the inside and get it started. Now, on the inside, we'll get these nuts. We just hold them into place with our fingers. One more here on this side, and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. With these bolts installed, we can tighten and torque them down as well. At this point, we can go ahead and get our bumper cover ready to reinstall on our vehicle. Now we have to cut out some parts of the grill right here to make room for the receiver brace or base plate. I marked out some edges here, here, and here. We're going to clean up this side here, and also this chrome part and this piece here, we have to remove as well. We'll about three quarters of the way down. Okay, I got one side down. We'll go and repeat on the other side. Now with the initial cuts made, we'll go ahead and put the bumper cover back into place. I may have to go ahead and make a few adjustments as well to make sure it goes back into place okay. We'll go ahead and put these two bolts back in, loosely, so we can just move it around and verify if the rest of the bumper cover fits okay. Once we have our bumper cover into place, we'll go ahead and reinstall fasteners, basically in reverse order we took them apart. While we're at it, go ahead and put our wire harness back onto our fog lights. With that, that'll finish it for the Roadmaster XL Base Plate Kit, part number 4408-1 on this 2012 Ford Edge. .


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