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Roadmaster EZ2 Base Plate Kit Installation - 2014 Ford C-Max

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How to Install the Roadmaster EZ2 Base Plate Kit on a 2014 Ford C-Max


Today on our 2014 Ford C-Max we'll be installing the Roadmaster EZ2 Base Plate Kit with Removable Arms, part number 524432-1. To being our install we're first going to go ahead and open the hood. Next we're going to locate the four push pin fasteners across the top of the front grill. To remove these fasteners we can simply use a flat blade screwdriver, pry up on the center of the fastener, releasing it and then removing the fastener. With my first one out I'll repeat the same process with the other three. Next we're going to pull back on the grill to locate the fasteners underneath, pop them free so we can remove it. Once you locate the fasteners we're going to use a flat blade screw driver to get between the fascia and the grill, pushing down on the fascia to release the fastener. We'll just slowly work our way across being careful not to brake the attachment points.

Once we have them released we can go ahead and remove the grill and set it aside for re-installation later. With the grill out of the way we can release the five fasteners that hold the fascia behind it. Simply pop them free or if necessary get a flat blade screwdriver in there and pop them out. With the center fascia released there we're going to move to the wheel wells. Here inside the wheel well we need to remove three fasteners. To gain easier access we're going to go ahead and turn the wheel in here on the driver side and remove the two torque fit fasteners 00:01:47. With the driver side done we'll move over to the passenger side and repeat the same process.

Now that we've released the fasteners inside the wheel well we're going to move underneath. There's a total of six push pin fasteners that holds the lower splash guard to the front fascia that will need to be removed. These are again the push pin fasteners so we'll just pry the center of the fastener out and then remove it. Now with all the fasteners out of the way we'll start at one corner at the wheel well releasing the fasteners underneath as we work underneath the headlight. Tech Tip: On vehicles equipped with front centers or fog lights, it's a good idea to go ahead and disconnect them now, once you release the corner, by pressing on the locking tab of the connector and then removing it so that it's not still connected to our fog light when we remove the fascia. Gently work the fasteners free here underneath the light. Once you have all the wiring removed we can go ahead and pull the fascia out and set it aside.

Now with the front fascia out of the way we'll make sure there's no wiring attached. We'll need to remove the front shock absorption pads. This is in front of the steel bumper. Using a paint marker we'll go ahead and mark out the section that will need to be removed. There's the passenger side.

I'll repeat the same process on the driver side. To cut it off you could use a sharp pair of tin snips or we're going to use a rotary tool. Now once we have it cut on both sides we'll go ahead and turn it over. You can see the fog light wire that is still connected. We'll go ahead and remove the push pin fasteners that secure it. Simply pull it out or if you have an interior trim panel tool you can use that to pop them free. So my fog light wire isn't just dangling here and in the way as we install the base plate, we're going to go ahead and disconnect it by pressing on the locking tab of the main connector and removing it. We'll set it aside for re-installation later with the fascia. Here on the driver side below the steel bumper is a support bracket. We're going to remove the support bracket and then an 8mm bolt underneath of it. We'll cut that out and remove it and expose the 8mm bolt. With the cut made we'll go ahead and remove that piece and here is our bolt. Next I'm going to move over to the passenger side where we'll need to remove the horn assembly. There's a bolt here that attaches the horn assembly bracket to the body. Once we have the bolt out you can see that the horns are hanging free. We can either go ahead and remove the wiring from the bracket and disconnect the horn assembly and set it aside or just hold it out of the way. We're going to go ahead and disconnect it and set it on the side. We'll press on the locking tab of the connector and remove it from the horns. We'll go ahead and set is aside for re-installation later. With the support bracket and horn assembly removed on both sides we can see the two predrilled holes in the sub-frame. We need to enlarge these holes to 1/2". Note: Each one of the new fasteners is going to get some red Loctite on the threads before it's installed. Starting here on the passenger side we need to install the bracket supplied with the install kit. The bracket will line up with the holes that we just created in the sub-frame. To secure the lower portion of our bracket we're going to use our 1/2" bolt, split lock washer and flat washer. That will go through the bracket and then through the 1/2" pipe spacer, through the hole, and get secured with the 3" long weld nut backing plate. The backing plate will get slide into the sub-frame and line up with our predrilled hole. Let's go ahead and install the bracket now. Keep in mind as we install each of our fasteners we're just going to go finger tight until they're all in place. Now our upper attachment point here for the bracket is going to get the same 1/2" bolt, split lock washer, flat washer, our pipe spacer will go in between the bracket and sub-frame and then we'll use the handle backing plate for weld nuts. Note: The wire can be bent as necessary to get it into place lining up with our attachment points. I'll go ahead and feed it in through the bottom of the sub-frame and I'm going to line it up with my attachment points, get my pipe spacer into position and then install the bolt. With the passenger side done I'm going to move over to the driver side and repeat the same process. Quick Tech Tip: The install of this hardware can be a little frustrating so it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help hold the weight of the bracket while you install the hardware. Quick Tech Tip: The wiring connectors here that secure the sub-frame have tabs that go through the sub-frame and can get in the way. If you pop the wiring free while you're getting your hardware in place it can make it easier. Next we're ready to start installing the base plate itself. The base plate main receiver bracket will line up with the pre drilled holes here in the bumper. Using the backing plate with the wire we'll bend it as necessary to line up with this pre existing hole. I'll go ahead and get my backing plates in position first. Then it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you hold the base plate in place and use a 1/2" bolt and split lock washer to secure it. Now we'll take our 1/2" bolt and split lock washer, go through the base plate, through the bracket, securing on the back side of the bracket with our 1/2" nut. We'll have a total of four of these, two on each side. With all our hardware in place we're going to go ahead and tighten it down and torque to specifications as indicated in the instructions. With all our fasteners secure we're going to use a pair of side cutters to cut off the excess from the backing plate rods. With our base plate installed, tightened and torqued to specifications we can go ahead and reinstall the horn. We may have to bend the bracket as necessary to keep it away from the base plate bracket. We'll make sure that the horn clears that bracket now that it's installed. Over here on the driver side we'll make sure we reinstall the electrical connectors that we popped free for clearance earlier. Next on the inside of our front fascia we need to remove the duck shroud 00:10:49. The duck shroud 00:10:50 will get removed and will not be reinstalled unless the base plate is removed. It's got plastic tabs that hold it in place so we'll work them free as we start on one side and go to the other. For this application it's a two piece shroud. We'll take the center out first. Now with the shroud out of the way we'll go ahead and remove the lower portion of the grill. As we turn it over we'll need to cut out the outside section on each side to allow for the base plate removable arms and the portion of the base plate receiver. Using my paint market I'm just going to mark out the section to be cut out. Some additional trimming may be necessary but this should handle the majority if not all. Once we have the cut outs made we'll go ahead and reinstall our lower fascia piece. Now we can start re-installing the fascia. Before we put our fascia back in place we're going to go ahead and reinstall the fog light wiring harness. Once we make our connection I'm then going to use some zip ties to connect the wiring to the manufacturer's wiring as necessary so that we can secure the harness as it used to be connected to the fascia. Once we have the wiring secure we'll cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up our install look. With everything reinstalled we'll go ahead and show you how to use the removable tab. The tab will line up with the receiver tube of the hitch and rotate to lock in place. Once we have them in place we can then hook up our tow bar. Then to remove then we'll simply rotate and pull, unlocking the notch that sets inside the receiver tube of the base plate. With that, this will complete the install and operation of our Roadmaster EZ2 Base Plate Kit with Removable Arms, part number 524432-1 on our 2014 Ford C-Max. .


Jim D.

2/19/2019

EXCELLENT video. Very detailed step by step installation instructions

Etrailer Expert

Heather A.

2/19/2019

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