bing tracking image

Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect Installation - 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

content loading

Customers compare RM-766 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Today on our 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster automatic battery disconnect with switch for towed vehicle with supplemental braking systems. When we want to tow our jeep, we're gonna need a base plate, tow bar wiring, the tow bar itself, as well as the braking system. Now specifically for our jeep, we're also gonna need an automatic battery disconnect, as well as a charge line kit to make sure our battery stays charged. According to our owner's manual, we need to disconnect our battery every time we want to flat tow our jeep. Now it doesn't sound like that big of a deal. We can pop our hood and we can disconnect the negative cable.

But that's gonna require us to have tools. Then we have to worry about isolating that cable to make sure we don't have any short or any arching going on while we're going down the road and then once we get there, we're gonna have to get our tools back out, open up the hood and reconnect the battery so we can drive our jeep.Seems like a big hassle every time we want to tow or drive our jeep. I would much rather just stay inside my jeep and have the convenience of just pushing a button and that's exactly what our automatic disconnect is gonna do. With the push of a button, it's gonna disconnect our battery from the electrical system on our jeep so we can safely flat tow it. Then when we want to drive, we simple push the button and everything will connect back together and the lights in our dash will come back on.

Now the way it's gonna work is it's gonna have a solenoid that's gonna be mounted onto the hood. Now from our solenoid, we're gonna have one cable that's connect to all of our battery cables itself and then on the other side of our solenoid, we're gonna have a cable that's going directly to the battery. Now the solenoid itself is gonna be corrosion resistant because it is a marine grade solenoid and it's gonna handle 200 amps of constant duty and up to 600 amps for a surge.Our automatic disconnect is gonna work with almost any 12 volt system and all the cables are labeled and it does come preassembled, making it a lot easier to get it in place. Now specifically for our jeep, because of how our positive terminal is attached to our battery cable, you do want to pick up a new ring terminal rather large size for battery cables because it'll make it a lot easier hooking everything up and you might want to pick up a slightly longer 5/16 bolt so we can bolt all of the cables together. So if you flat towed your jeep before and you're tired of coming underneath the hood each time and dealing with all that or if you're just starting out and you don't want to deal with that, our automatic battery disconnect is gonna be a really convenient safe way to cut the power so we can safely flat tow our jeep.

But now that we've seen what our disconnect looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, we're gonna open up the hood on our jeep.We'll come to the passenger side right by the firewall so we can find out battery. We're gonna need to disconnect the negative post. So we'll grab a 10 millimeter socket and we'll loosen up the nut that's on top. Once that's loosened up, we can move the post and disconnect the cable and you want to make sure that it's gonna be isolated away from any metal and that it's not gonna touch the negative post on the battery again.

Now that the negative cable is disconnected, we need to find a spot to mount our solenoid. Now if we look at the back of it, we're gonna have two tabs coming off each side with a slot in it and those are gonna be our mounting holes. Now we're gonna mount ours right here inside the battery box, against this plastic panel. It's gonna be on the center side, closer to the middle of our jeep. So I'm gonna line up my solenoid on that panel and I'll make a couple marks. We can draw out some holes so we can secure it down.I'm gonna come back with a 1/4" drill and I'm gonna drill through the two marks that I made. Now you want to double check and see what's behind there and make sure there's no lines or anything that could be damaged when you start drilling. Now before we actually mount our solenoid, I'm gonna adjust and clock my cables because we don't want them pointing down or up. We want them to be pointing away towards the battery. So if we look on the side, we'll have a nut right here that we need to loosen up. But it's important that we do not move this gold colored nut on the inside because on the inside of the solenoid, there's some wires attached to it and if we rotate it too much, it could damage the inside of the solenoid and potentially destroy it. So the way we want to adjust them is we want to take two 1/2" wrenches, one to hold the nut on the inside and one to loosen up the nut on the outside.Again, you just want to try your best not to move that nut on the inside at all and just loosen up that silver nut on the outside. Once you loosen it up some, we should be able to rotate the cable to the position that we want it. In our case, I'm just gonna have it come straight out and we can hold the nut on the inside again. Then we'll tighten up the nut on the outside and we'll repeat that for the other side as well. So I'm gonna take the 1/4" bolts that come in our kit. I'm gonna pass them through the holes that are in my solenoid. I'm gonna line it up with the holes that drilled and pass them all the way through the plastic. Then I'm gonna secure it down with the flange nut on the backside of the plastic. Then I'm gonna come back with a 3/8 wrench and socket and I'm gonna tighten up my hardware and make sure my solenoid is nice and secure. Now if we come to the positive side of our battery, we're gonna notice that we have three terminals that are gonna be attached.We're gonna wanna remove all the positive cables coming off the battery. So grab a 10 millimeter socket and we'll start removing the nuts. Now for anything that you want to have power all the time, you are gonna need to leave it directly on the battery post. This is for our charged line. So for right now, I'm just gonna set it aside. But this will be going directly back to the battery. Then we'll remove the center nut, holding the terminal on. Remove the center post as well as the keeper and we're gonna remove the positive post from the battery. Now we have all the positive cables removed off our battery. But you'll notice that the large one is gonna be connected to clamp that goes onto the post and we cannot remove it. So in order to get everything installed properly, we're gonna have to cut our cable and put a new terminal on the end of it. I went ahead and cut the terminal off my main battery cable and when I did, I cut right before that stud.So I still have my stud and then on my clamp to tighten up onto the battery post. I went ahead and put a large ring terminal. But just keep in mind you are gonna need a hydraulic crimper to crimp it onto the end of the wire. But this way, we can attach all of our connection points to where we need to and still have a battery terminal that we can attach to our battery in the end. We're gonna start by finding the cable that says battery cable. They are labeled and we'll take out heat shrink they provide us in our kit and we're gonna slip it over the end of our cable and just push it out of the way for now. Next, we're gonna grab the bolt that comes in our kit. We'll pass it through our battery cable eyelet. Then we're gonna follow it up with a star washer and then we want to take all the cables that we're on the positive post of our battery and we're gonna put them on the bolt here.So I'm gonna start with the large one and then work my way down to all the other terminals. Now you'll notice that it is getting pretty tight and it's pretty small now. If I have room and I add another star washer and then we'll secure it with a nut, but you can see that it's not quite long enough to attach all of these together. So I'm gonna grab a larger bolt that's a little bit longer so it can reach all the way through. Now the longer bolt is not gonna come in your kit. But the bolt is just a regular 5/16 bolt. You just want to make sure you put the star washers between your cables and then once we have all of them on, you want a star washer between the cables and the nut itself. I just want to get this hand tight for now. Then we can come back and snug it up. Now when you're doing this, you kind of want to get your cables as close to straight as you can. That way, once they tighten up, it'll be a nice, straight line.So you want to slide your heat shrink over the connection and you're gonna try to cover up as much of the metal as possible and if you can't get it over it, you can always come back and wrap everything up with some electrical tape. I'm gonna use a heat gun to shrink down my heat shrink. But if you're using an open flame, like a torch or a lighter, you just want to be careful not to burn or char the wires or the heat shrink. Now we want to find the cable that's labeled battery post. This is gonna go directly to the positive side of our battery. So we already have the positive post terminal here and if you remember, I told you that I cut it right here so we still have that stud. So I'll take my cable. I'm gonna put it on top of the stud. Then I'll take the nut from earlier and I'm gonna put it right on the battery. Just gonna leave it loose for now.We'll route it over towards our battery and keep in mind again if you have anything that you wan to have constant power to, you're gonna wanna hook that back up to the battery as well. So we'll take our charge line and I'll hook that up to the positive post. Just gonna leave everything kind of loose for now. That way, I can make any kind of adjustments of how I want my cables to sit. Then we can put the clamp back over the top and we can reinstall the nut that keeps the post tight on the battery. Now we can bring our attention to our white wire. This is gonna be our ground. Now this needs to be hooked either directly to the battery or to a good chassis ground. Now fortunately for us, the negative side of the battery is right here. So I'm gonna estimate how much wire I'm gonna need. I like to give myself a little bit of extra so actually just bring it out to the terminal itself.Cut the excess wire off and strip back the end of it and then I'm gonna take one of the ring terminals that comes in our kit and I'll crimp it in place. Then we can take our negative cable and you'll notice that it is gonna have a stud on there. So I'll slide our ring terminal over. Since we didn't reuse all the nuts and posts that we have in our positive terminal, I'm gonna take one of the nuts from there and I'll secure it to the negative side on the battery here and for now, we're just gonna leave this nice and loose, just hand tight until we hook up the negative cable. Now I'm gonna take the wire loom they give us, split loom. So it's gonna be split in the middle. I'm just gonna feed this over my battery cables, help protect them and kind of help clean everything up under the hood here. We'll just take it and slip it onto our wire. Then we can take some tape and secure it once we get it all the way on.Now the gray wire, if we look at the end of it, we'll have two very small wires on the inside. These are what's gonna go to the switch that we're gonna mount inside of our jeep. So we're gonna need to route this gray wire along the firewall and we're gonna be going in on the driver's side. So we're gonna go ahead and route this and then I'll show you how I got my wire in there. So I ran my wire across the firewall. I zip tied it to this existing wiring here until I got all the way over to the driver's side by our brake booster. Now if you have an automatic jeep, if we come down all the way against the fender, we're gonna have a rubber grommet. Now use an airline tube to push through the grommet. You can use a coat hanger or whatever you have available, just something stiff that'll keep its shape when you start pushing. Then I attached my wire to the end of my airline tube so I can pull everything into the inside.So here on the inside, you can see where that airline tube is coming from. It's pretty high up underneath and behind the dash. But we'll go ahead and start pulling on our airline tube until we can get our wire inside. Then we'll pull all the slack through. Now that we have our wire inside, we're gonna need to find a spot that we want to mount our switch. We're gonna mount ours right here on the driver's side panel right above this speaker grill. But we're gonna need to get behind this panel so we can run our wire up and attach the switch itself. So if we come to the outside, we'll have this trim panel here and I'm gonna use a plastic trim panel tool so I don't mar up the panel itself. But you just want to come in to the edge here and we can pop out the clips and pull the panel out and now we can get access to this panel back here and double check that nothing's gonna be in the way of our switch.So now I'm gonna take a small drill bit and I'm gonna drill right through the plastic. Again you just wanna double check that nothing's back there and you have plenty of room for that switch to go in. Now that we have a pilot hole drilled, I'm gonna come back with a 5/8 drill bit and I'm gonna enlarge it to the final size. Now if you don't have a 5/8 drill bit, you can use a step bit or you can use a 1/2" bit and you just want to wallow it out enough to where the switch itself will fit inside. So we want to bring our wire up top to where we're pretty close and get access to the hole we drilled. Right now, we'll just leave our wire sitting there and we'll grab the switch and we want to loosen the nut off the backside of the switch and we're gonna take our wire. We'll pull it out of the hole.I'm gonna put my nut onto the wire and we'll pull all the slack out of our wire so it's coming through the hole and that nut is pretty close to being on the backside of where we just drilled. Now I'm gonna go ahead and cut some of this excess wire off and then we're gonna peel back the sheathing so we can expose the two individual wires inside and then we can strip back both end of the black and red wire. Then if you look on the back of our switch, we're gonna have a very small screw and if we start to loosen them up, you can see the screw itself. It's actually giving us some room to put the wire inside this terminal. So I'm gonna go ahead and loosen these up. You don't want to take the screw all the way out because they are very small and very easy to lose. But then we'll take one of our wires. We'll pass it through. Then we'll tighten up the screw to secure it down. Now once you have both wires hooked in and they're nice and secure, we're gonna take our switch.We're gonna push it through the hole. It may be a tight fit. But that's not a bad thing because then we don't have to worry about it moving too much. But we'll pass it through the hole and then we'll take the nut and we'll slide it over the back of the switch and we'll tighten it up so it's nice and secure again to the dash. So now with our switch mounted, we can put the panel back. We'll just line up the pins and make sure all the clips go back into place. Then finally, we can hook up the negative terminal on our battery and tighten down the nut. Don't forget to tighten down the ring terminal for our ground as well. Finally, we're gonna grab the 7 1/2 and fuse. Then we're gonna put it in the fuse holder. Now we can test the system to make sure that our automatic disconnect is gonna work properly. So take our key and we can see that the radio as well as the dash lights are all coming on.So we know the car is in run mode and if I hit the switch, we can see that it cuts all power off and no matter what position the key is in, the car's not gonna start and we're not getting any power. But if I hit the switch again, we can see the dash as well as the radio's coming back on and our jeep is gonna start. That'll finish up your look at the Roadmaster automatic battery disconnect with switch for towed vehicle with supplemental braking systems on our 2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Kevin C
Test Fit:
Kevin C
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Charles A
Video by:
Charles A

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.