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Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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How to Install the Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect on a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, we're going to be showing you how to install the Roadmaster battery disconnect switch for towed vehicle with supplemental braking system. Part number is RM-766.Now the need for an auto battery disconnect on the Silverado comes from the tendency for the battery to drain while we're flat towing the truck. This gives us a very quick and easy solution to go from tow mode, which is going to separate the connection in our positive battery cable, de-powering the entire truck, right into drive mode where we re-establish that connection. So we no longer are going to have to worry about trying to remove the battery cable or having one of those big switches underneath the hood that we constantly have to remember to switch back and forth.When we're ready to tow, we'll hit tow. When we're done flat towing and we're ready to start driving our vehicle, simply switch it into drive.Now to mount our battery disconnect, we want to keep it down somewhere kind of out of the way so we're not going to be bumping into it as we're working on our truck or something like that.We we're going to be going right underneath the coolant overflow tank here. We'll start by pulling these two hoses off.

We're just going to have pressure clamps and use a pair of needle nose, just to kind of squeeze the clamp together and then wiggle your hose off.Now I'm going to use a 5/16 inch bit driver. I'm going to slightly loosen up the hose clamp here on the air box lid where it meets the tube. Then I'm also going to remove the four screws. We've got one in each corner of the air box here.Now the one here in this front middle corner is a little tough to get to because of that AC line above it. So we'll just use a 5/16 inch ratchet, a ratcheting wrench in our case to get it removed.

We'll lift up on that cover. Should be able to pull it free of the tube. We'll just set it up here to the side. Get our air filter out of the way and then the box that the air filter fits down into, you'll just pull up underneath on that. That's just going to pop out.

We'll get it up out of the way.Now you'll want to plug up the tubes that come out of the top of the coolant reservoir here. I'm going to use a short piece of hose and a couple of hose clamps to go around it. That should keep it from leaking when we move it out of the way here.Now we're going to use a 10 millimeter socket. We need to take out the bolt right here in the front inside corner. Then we've also got one down at the very bottom of it right here in this little corner.It's kind of hard to reach that nut, but if you take a kind of like a shop towel and put it in your socket, push it down on there and that will usually help to bring it up for you.

We'll extend that out by loosening that wire loom up and that will give us some place when we move our tank up. We can kind of set it up right over there.Now that will clear out the area here just underneath where we're going to mount our disconnect.Now on our battery disconnect you'll see the flange here where we're going to mounting or what we use to mount it. We can get that put right down like this. That will keep it down and below where that coolant tank is.Now before we get this tucked down there and stored away. Let's get our wiring set up. You're going to have a three strand gray wire. This is going to be ran into the vehicle where we're going to set up our switch. I'm going to strip the sheathing off the outside here. Of course, being very careful not to damage it, any of the wiring inside. We just want to go through that outside layer. We can lay it open and we've got three of our wires inside.Now what we'll do is stagger our wires and get them cut here. Three different lengths and we'll get that strip back. Give those a twist and then we'll add a butt connector to the end of each one. Now your kit's going to come with standard blue butt connectors, but we strongly recommend that you switch those into a heat shrink butt connector. It does the same job. The heat shrink butt connector, however is going to give a superior moisture resistance, so we won't have to worry about any corrosion or anything like that down the road.They crimp on just like a standard connector would. All right. Now we'll be connecting those to the black, red and the blue wire coming from our disconnect. The black's going to go to black. The blue goes to white and the red goes to red. We'll want to stagger our cuts here the same way we did before.Now the yellow wire is not going to be used. Now we'll use a heat source. You can use a lighter, heat gun, you can use a mini torch. Just want to apply a little bit of heat at a time and you'll see those ends shrink down. Once they're fully shrank that wire looks like it magnifies. Then there's a little bit of clear gel that comes out of the end here. That way you'll know you got a good seal. We'll do all three of them.All right, now just for aesthetics here, we're going to wrap our wiring up. Again, we're not going to use the yellow. We'll leave it attached if it will be needed down the road or something. Today we're not going to use it.Now you see we've reversed our cables. Typically they're going to stick straight down. We reversed them so they go upward. I'm doing the same thing with my wiring that comes out. This is going to allow us to run that along our firewall over to the interior of the truck. It will also help keep it nice and tidy here.All right, we got it pre-wired. Now we can get it mounted. Once we find the position we want, we'll use the provided self tapping screws and a 3/8 bit driver to get it secured right down to the body metal here.Now located just underneath the cover here, you pull out on the corners you can pop this off. It's going to be the battery stud we'll want to connect to. See this goes from the positive terminal of our battery right up to this jump stud. This, we're going to get removed. We'll use a 10 millimeter socket for this. We're going to remove that long jump post just like that. Get it set aside. We'll also loosen up our cable end slightly. Pull that up and off and rotate it just like that. We'll get that secured back down.Now to connect our two cables here, we're going to use the provided bolt and nut with the two serrated lock washers. Bring that through one of our ring terminals. Slide on one of our lock washers. Bring that through our other ring terminal.Now on the battery post side we're going to be connecting that to our battery cable here. We'll slide on the heat shrink material first. Then we can place our short bolt through. Place on our serrated lock washer. Place that on the ring terminal from our battery. Place on our other serrated lock washer. Then thread on the nut.I'll use a half inch wrench. Get that tightened down. Bring our heat shrink material up and over that connection point and we'll use a heat gun to shrink that down.I just want to kind of adjust the positioning here. Just to get my cable to kind of run in this way as opposed to hanging out over this way. That looks good there. We can actually zip tie that right off to this wire loom that comes off. I'll keep it from moving around. Keep it protected.Now the other side here, it's going to run right into that post where we're removed the wire the first time. There's a little slot right here underneath that cover where the original cable went through. I think that's the perfect spot to put our new cable. We're going to put our post back on there and get that tightened down.Now I'm going to run my gray wiring down and around the back of the battery. We're going to follow this wire loom over to the driver side.Once we get over to the driver's side here, we're going to have the big grommet located here on the firewall. You've got a bundle of wire, a little bit bigger than the size of a quarter that goes into the center. There's going to be a little circle that sticks out there. If we take the end off of that, if we cut the end off, that should give us a nice pass through to take our wiring inside. See, that's what that end looks like that you'll be taking off. Let's pass in our wire.We'll bring that on through. Just be sure we pull through all of our slack. Now just to give you a rough idea of where to get that wiring, you want to look at the top left corner of this box right up here. That's where that grommet's going to be located. That's where you'll pull your wiring through from.Now we're going to take the cover off of this fuse panel here. You've got two locks on the outside, one here and one here. Then just about right here in the middle you'll have one on the inside. You're probably going to need maybe a pick or a screw driver to release that one. Then these two you can get to with your finger. Slide that straight down.Now we're going to get our switch mounted right in the front of that. That way it'll be up out of the way, but still easy to get to by simply reaching under the dash.Now the position our switch, we'll need to make 3/4 inch hole in our cover. We're going to be using a hole saw. If necessary, you see where these ribs come up the box there. We're going to trim those back just to allow the nut to sit down flush on the back of this panel. Now we'll remove the nut from the back of our switch. This is a momentary switch. You'll see we're either going to press that up or down and it's going to return to center. We want the higher sides to be facing up and down. Then we can thread our nut on the back to hold our switch in place.There we've got our switch installed. Your nut's tight on the back. What we'll do is bring our wire down inside of that box. We're going to leave some extra length. This will allow for any repairs or any time we need to remove that cover for us to have enough slack to pull it down without the switch holding it from coming off fully.Now like we did on that outside, we just want to strip our jacket in back here. Strip all three of these back. Then on the end of each one, we'll add one of the provided red female spade connectors.Now we'll slide our spade connectors on. We're going to put the red on the top, we're going to put the white in the middle and then we'll put the black on the bottom there.You can see I've tilted those upwards just the slightest bit to give us the room we need when we attach the cover.Now we've got our 7 amp fuse. We got a slot here and a slot here. We're going to be using the one on the outside here. So one that's closest to the battery post. All right, now we'll be ready to go in and put our stickers in place.Now to determine which way is which on the switch, we're going to turn the ignition on, we'll press the button down and if everything shuts off, we're going to know that's the tow side. That's what's happened here. So we'll clean that off with a little bit of rubbing alcohol there. We'll grab the tow sticker from the kit and we can put it right below there. That will mean if we push up, our ignition's going to come back on. We'll have the power we need. So that's going to be the drive side. We'll place the drive sticker there.So by clicking it down, shutting off the entire ignition, the battery is no longer connected to the vehicle. As you put your cover on, your cables are going to interfere there. So just make a mark on where you need to trim it to allow the cover to go down and around your cables, however you had them positioned.If you need a 12-volt power source for your braking system, you need to get it off the stud that's located here on the battery post side. I'm not going to be putting that stuff back in because my braking system needs to attach to that 12-volt system. If yours doesn't at this point, you can just get everything buttoned back up.Now with everything working properly, that's going to complete our installation of the Roadmaster battery disconnect with switch, part number RM-766 our 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500.


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