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Roadmaster BrakeMaster System Installation - 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche

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How to Install the Roadmaster BrakeMaster System on a 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche


Today on our 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche, we're going to be taking a look at and also showing you how to install the Roadmaster Brakemaster system with breakaway for RVs. This is going to work with air or air over hydraulic brakes and it is proportional. Part number is RM-9160. The Roadmaster Brakemaster is going to be the perfect solution for your supplemental braking needs when towing your vehicle behind your RV. We have a cylinder mounted in the floorboard of the vehicle that actually presses on the brake pedal any time we hit the brakes inside of our motor home. This is designed to work with air brakes or air over hydraulic brakes, giving us lots of options on different coaches we can install it on. Of all the braking systems I have installed that actually mount into the vehicle semi-permanently such as this one, it is one of the easier ones to do. We've only got one air line to run inside and one wire.

Everything else is taken care of underneath the hood or under our RV. The pedal clamp's designed to work right around the brake pedal to give us a quick and easy installation and with the seat bracket adapter available from Roadmaster, it gives us a very sturdy connection point so unlike the in the floor box style braking systems, we're not going to have to worry about this being positioned correctly or moving around. The pedal clamp design of the actuator is also an excellent solution for those really tight spaces where it might be tough or even impossible to get a permanently mounted actuator on the brake pedal itself. Now let's take a quick look at the braking system and how it installs. See here on the front of the vehicle, we're going to have our air connection. That's going to hook up from our RV to our truck anytime we hit the brake in the RV, it's going to send air through to our truck and it's going to brake accordingly for us. It's going to help get our vehicle slowed down and this braking system will also help us maintain all the DOT standards from state to state. Now this is your breakaway system.

You see, once that's pulled out and the system's pressurized, it's going to activate the brake inside the car to bring it safely to a stop. When we hook this up to our RV, you'll see the flexible coil that allows us to do that, we're also going to have the connection for our airline to our RV, won't have to worry about that. Now to let us know inside the RV that the braking system's working any time it activates, we've got a monitor wire here. This monitor wire will also be hooked up to our RV through a pigtail and any time the braking system operates, we'll have a light on in the dash indicating that. Just wanted to kind of go over how we routed this stuff. Now, from our breakaway switch, we've got two wires.

We need to run one behind our grill over towards our battery, the other one we ran over towards the passenger side where we mounted our breakaway tank. Now you will need about seven or eight foot of 16 gauge wire, that's 16-1-1 on our website. It'll be by the foot. So be sure to get a little bit of extra just so you can get your runs made appropriately. The air line, we ran along the same path right here as we did the braking system wire, right underneath our air box intake, underneath the coolant tank reservoir, and finally here to the breakaway canister. Now one of the wires from the breakaway canister is going to be connected to the breakaway switch.

The other one you're simply going to run over here and ground out. Can see we've done that right there on the fender well. Your air line connection, we want to be sure it goes in the one that's not next to the valve body here, so that's going to be air in. Then we'll run air out, over, cross the fire wall, and into a grommet located right here. That's going to give us a pretty good passage into the driver side floorboard area where we're going to be mounting our actuating cylinder. Now you can see our monitor wire here that we discussed up front, we've just run that up kind of the same pattern we did with our 12 volt wire. Then we kind of split them up. We ran our monitor wire over behind our fuse box into the grommet. The 12 volt power wire, it comes over this way, underneath our coolant hose here, and it connects to the power tap that's right here. You can see they've included a fuse holder there, that way you can keep the system separated from the truck and we won't have to worry about any shorting. We're going to use the provided fuse holder and the 10 amp fuse to do that. See here, they've got just a loop holder. Cut that about 4:30, 5:00 position there. Then we'll strip both ends of that back as well as the wire we ran up from the breakaway. See as we make our connection, we don't want our fuse to be in the holder, that would be the last thing that we put in place. Just like we did on our other butt connector, we want to get that shrank down. Just remember when you're using your heat shrink butt connectors, you don't want to overdo it or leave your heat in one spot too long because you can wind up doing damage. When it's all said and done, you'll see the wire looks like it magnifies. It's even a little clear gel that comes out of the end, we know we've got that done properly. Now the other end, we're going to add a 3/8 ring terminal. This is a little bit larger than what's in the kit, just to accommodate that slightly larger stud we'll use. We'll take a 17 millimeter socket, back that nut off there, slide it on and put the nut back in place. We'll take that 10 amp fuse, we're going to place it in, that cover closed, and I'm going to zip tie that fuse holder off right there and we'll zip tie our excess off up this way a little bit. Now for our monitor wire, we need to pass that in through the fire well and get it in there where we can connect it to our brake light switch. Now we're already doing a brake light relay on this car so you want to get it on the upstream side, which we'll show you how. Right down here on the fire well, we've got a grommet. To get through our grommet there, we just want to make a small cut. It's going to be just large enough for our wire to pass through. Course we want to ensure we're not doing any damage to the wiring behind so check inside now, make sure there's nothing that's going to interfere there. Now you'll have an outside and an inside layer to this grommet so I'm going to get through both of them there. Once we've got that to pass through, we'll use a stiff piece of wire very similar to a coat hanger or an airline tubing to pass through there, come out on the other side so we can draw through our wire. You'll see we passed a screwdriver out through the grommet from the inside of the vehicle. It's pretty thick rubber, we're having a hard time getting the air line through there. So now what we'll do is use that as a guide so we know our air line's going to be going the right direction in the hole we want. All right, now with that routed, we're going to just take that monitor wire right off to our air line and we'll pull it through our grommet. Now see the area where our wires come out here, it's going to be beside the parking brake and also this flat box, straight up and on our fire well. Just want to pull all the monitor wire through and take a peek out underneath the hood to make sure we don't have any slack there. With that done, it's going to be in position in here so we can connect it when we put in our brake light relay. Now once we have our wire through, something that's going to make it easier for us to get our air line through later will be to leave whatever your pull wire type is through the grommet. We'll use the wire we just pulled through there as our guide to get this one in place. Take that off just like we did before, now we'll pull that through. We're just going to leave it in place until we need it to run our air line in. Now once we have everything passed through, it's going to be a good idea to use some black sealant here just to patch up any holes, especially in that grommet. We don't want moisture, dust, or any kind of exhaust gases or anything getting into our passenger compartment there. Now we've got our breakaway cylinder securely mounted to the support bracket using the provided hardware and the large loom clamps. These are just going to strap right around it. I'm going to drill two holes here to pass those both through and just tighten them down with a socket. It's pretty easy spot to get into although you will have to hold the nuts underneath that bracket, just keep that in mind. Now if we look just above the parking brake, that's going to be where that grommet's located on the inside of the vehicle. Again, the only two things that we need to pass through, it's going to be that air line and our monitor wire. Now we run our air line right up to the back of an air fitting, use two self-tacking screws to mount it to this, have a nice solid piece of steel that runs the whole length underneath the dash. Got it mounted right there. You'll see our quick disconnect allows us to quickly and easily plug in or remove our actuation cylinder here on the floor. Any time we hit the brakes in the motor home, it's going to provide air through the tube and it's going to extend the cylinder. As that cylinder extends, it gives us the braking force that we need. The attachment point here is a very quick and simple one. As you can see, there's a custom seat bracket. It's going to install right under the seat studs, give us our connection point right there to connect the back side of that cylinder. Now we've switched over to the Windsor Monaco. That's what we're going to be hooking our Avalanche to. You'll see our new monitor wire here. That simply runs underneath the full length of the coach up into the driver's side passenger compartment where we're going to hook it up to the monitor light. We'll then hook it to the buzzer and ground it out. I mean, it's a pretty straightforward system there. We're just connecting a wire to turn that light on so any time our brakes are activated, we'll see it. Now this coach already had the airline hooked up. We didn't inaudible 00:10:22 mess with the connections, they look like they'd been doctored a little bit but on a new application, you're going to mount your bracket right here. It's going to look just like the one on the front of the truck. Plug our air line in. That's going to deliver air to the vehicle to operate the brakes. Now this is going to tie in if we follow up . we need to go ahead of the engine here. Once we get up here to the rear pumpkin, our valve body's going to be located right up there just behind that cross inaudible 00:10:52. Now here's our valve body, that's the one that's been tapped into. Basically you can see that previous installation they had installed a T there, then into that T they installed that compression fitting. Now for our braking system, we've got a few quick connections we're going to make. This is our pigtailed wire that connects to our breakaway switch. We want to make sure that you have this connected to either the hitch or to the frame of the vehicle. This cannot be connected inaudible 00:11:21 connections. Take our air hose kit, get that plugged into the inaudible 00:11:28 plug in our monitor light wire, make that connection there, and we also want to plug in our monitor light. Now with everything connected, let's run a test and make sure its' all working properly. Now with the coach running and our air pressure and our primary and secondary tank up to par, we're inaudible 00:11:49 apply our brakes in the coach and we'll see the activation of our actuator there in the floorboard of the car giving the pedal a press. Now with everything working properly, that's going to complete our installation of the Roadmaster Brakemaster system with breakaway, part number RM-9160, on our 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche that we've hooked up to our 1999 Monaco by Windsor.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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