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Roadmaster BrakeMaster System Installation - 2017 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Roadmaster BrakeMaster System on a 2017 Ford F-150


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Ford F150, we're going to be installing Road Masters Brake Masters system. In conjunction with Road Masters Brake Master custom fit seat adapter, part number RM-88316. In conjunction with Road Masters brake light relay kit, part number RM-88400. The Brake Master supplemental braking system for your towed vehicle is going to be truly proportional. It's going to use the same air supply from your RV's brakes to apply the brakes inside your vehicle. With this system, there's no inertia sensor.

It gets the same direct supply. So it's going to apply your brake with the same intensity as your RV does.This is especially convenient when driving over uneven surfaces where an inertia based system may apply the brakes when they weren't intended to be applied, wearing out the brakes on your vehicle faster than they should. When you're ready to two your vehicle, you took it up to your tow bars, get it in tow mode. And you just place your cylinder in place. Mounting to the anchor point, and to your pedal.

And then when you're doing using it, you can pull it out. So you don't have to worry about any annoying cylinder that may still be on your pedal.The air supply travels from your RV to your vehicle through quick connect ports and the hose provided. Along that, you'll also have a wire that will tell when the brake is being depressed in the vehicle, send that signal up to the cab in your RV. Now here we are in the RV, and you can see when we hit the brake in our RV, the indicator shows us that the brake in our vehicle is being applied as well. Also included in your kit is a break away switch.

So in case there was a disconnect going down the road, in the case of an emergency this would apply the brakes in the vehicle slowing it down.Mounted in your vehicle, you have a reservoir cylinder with the relay on it that will use that air that has been stored to apply the brakes if the break away switch is pulled. Your reservoir cylinder is located here. At the bottom of the reservoir cylinder there's a petcock for draining any moisture that may collect in it. What's great about this system is that you've got a warning indicator inside your RV. So if you don't have any kind of rear view camera, you can see that it's being applied.

And that it's directly proportional getting that same air supply from your RV.We'll begin our install here at the front by removing some of our panels. This will give us some more access to install the following components that we're going to have. Begin by removing the two push pins, holding the inlet for your air filter. You can do this with a flat bladed screwdriver, or a trim panel remover tool. Pry up on the middle, and then remove the entire fin. Now remove the eight pins holding in this trim panel cover here. And now remove your panel, and set it aside.Now to give ourselves some extra room mounting our cylinder, we're going to remove the air in here. You can do that by removing the eight millimeter head bolt here. To help you get it out easier, if you do a twisting motion, that makes it a little easier to get it out. I'm going to mount our cylinder on the beam located underneath. We're going to use the existing hole that's in there to mount it. We're going to bolt through the clamp, and place the clamp around the cylinder. Get it in position, run the bolt through the frame. And thread a nut on the other side. Then tighten it down using a 10 millimeter socket and wrench.And now we're going to drill a second hole in our bracket, kind of line up where it's going to be near. So that way your clamp will hit it. And we're going to drill it out with a quarter inch drill bit. Now put your second clamp on, run your bolt through it. And run it through the hole that we just drilled. After you've got your second bolt run through there, put the nut on the other side and tighten it down.Now that we've got our cylinder mounted, we're going to mount our breakaway switch and our air connection in this location here. We've already got the license plate removed, so that way we can get better access to it. We installed our break away switch in this location. We used two self tapping screws and the bracket that came with our base plate kit to mount it up. There will be two wires we need to attach, and these will have to run one to our battery and one to our cylinder. So in order to get our wires there, we took a step bit and we drilled a hole here at the bottom.t hat way we can run our siring through and then feel it back up.We used the same process that we used for our break away switch to mount our air fitting. And we're going to mount it here just below our six bolt connector. We use self tapping screws provided in the kit to mount it here. We now have to run wires from our break away switch up to our battery, into our cylinder. We're going to use a piece of air line hose to feed it from the bottom up, to get it where we need it. We'll then take some of the wire provided in the kit and run it down through the hole that we drilled.We'll then tape our wire to our air line hose, and that will make it easy to feed it up in the way that we want it to be routed. And now pull your wire up. Strip back the end of the wire you ran up, and strip back the end of the fuse harness provided in the kit. And we'll connect these together using a butt connector. We've decided to upgrade from the butt connectors in the kit to a heat shrink butt connector, since it's going to be outside the vehicle. This will help prevent moisture and corrosion from getting on the circuits.And strip back the other end of the harness. And install the ring terminal provided in the kit. And then using an 11 millimeter socket to disconnect the nut on your positive post to your battery. Slide on the ring terminal, and reinstall the nut. Now back at our break away switch, we'll connect that wire up. And we've left our excess here so we can be as efficient as possible and have enough to run the other wire. Go ahead and cut our wire. Strip it back, and connect it to that butt connector.We'll then route this wire from our break away switch here over to our cylinder using the same technique we did for this one. We'll then strip back the wire we ran over to our cylinder, down here at our break away switch. But a butt connector on it. And we'll connect our other end to our breakaway switch. Remove the ground wire, located here by your air filter with an eight millimeter socket. And then you'll connect this wire to either of the wires on your cylinder.Then crimp on a ring terminal. Now we did opt for a larger ring terminal for it to fit onto the bolt that we had removed. If you don't opt for a larger ring terminal, you'll need to gather yourself a self tapping screw. You can pick some up here at etrailer.com to use the ring terminal provided. And then slide your ring terminal on the bolt, and reinstall the bolt. Now heat shrink down all your butt connectors.Next, we'll run our air line down through the opening in our grill. And then go up to connect it to our cylinder. That will go between our fitting and our cylinder. Once you've got the hose ran up, we're going to fuse the compression fitting on the air cylinder and hook it into the inside. Slide on the compression fitting nut, and the compression fitting. And we'll put it in the in location. This is the out here, make sure you're going on the in. Press it in, and make sure it's fully seated. Bring the nut down, and tighten it at the fitting.And then tighten it down using a 13 millimeter wrench. Make sure not to over-tighten the fitting. We'll then take the other end of our air line, and we'll cut it and plug it into our fitting at the front of the vehicle. You can get one of these cutting tools here at etrailer.com. This tool makes sure that it cuts straight and flush to prevent any leaks. We'll connect it the same way by inserting the nut fitting on there. Make sure that you have the hose fully seated. And then run your compression fitting down.We're now going to route our brake signal connector and wire inside of our vehicle. You'll have two harnesses with similar female connectors. One is for your motor home, and the other is for your towed vehicle. This is going to be for your vehicle if it's shorter. And the motor home one's going to have much longer length of wire. Once your brake wire has been routed up, we can reinstall our license plate. As we have no more wires we need to run here. It just clips right back into place.We're now going to push our air line tubing through the grommet located at the firewall here next to the brake booster. I've already taken a screwdriver and just poked it through, just to make it a little easier to get the air line through. Once you've got your hose poked into your grommet, tape the wire that you ran up from the front that's going to be your brake signal wire. So we can pull this through at the same time. Now pull your fish line until you get everything fed through.We're going to be mounting our bracket located down here on the lower left kick panel. And we're going to use some self tapping screws to thread it right in. I'm going to go ahead and drill the holes, and then run the screws in. And I'll show you how it looks when it's done. We've pre-drilled a couple of smaller holes using a quarter-inch drill bit. And then self tapped them using some screws that you can get here at etrailer.com. Now we can take the air line that we ran through. To make it easier getting through, I did put a little bit of a slant in it. We need to make sure that it's flat and flush.And now we can connect it to the compression fitting at the back of our quick connect bracket that we just installed. We'll hook that up just like we did our other fittings. Sliding on the nut first, on the small fitting. Making sure it's fully seated in the back and then threading on our nut. Then tightening it down with 13 millimeter wrench.We're now back on the outside, we'll hook up the other end of our airline to the out on our fitting here on our cylinder. We're going to go ahead and get us an appropriate amount of length. And then we'll route that over to our cylinder. We'll just make a loop to help take up that excess just in case we need to make any repairs in the future, we've got that extra line. We'll connect to this line the same way. Nut first, followed by fitting. Making sure the hose is fully seated, and installing that.And now since our vehicles brake lamps override our brake lamp circuit, we're going to have to install a brake light relay. We're going to go ahead and do that now during this installation. As the black wire that we ran inside needs to connect to the brake signal, but so does our brake light relay. So our brake light relay's going to get power from our tail lamp signal from our motor home. So we've got some extra brown wire that you'll have to pick up at your local electronics store. And we're going to run that through the firewall.I've went ahead and taped it to the black wire that we've already ran in. And we're going to use that as a fish wire to pull this wire in as well. Then we'll pull our wire in. Now we've got our brown wire inside to hook up to our brake light relay. Now we're going to disconnect our brake pedal sensor connector. Pushing on the white tab here, and pull outward to release it. You'll now need to strip back the sheathing to expose the wires underneath, so we can tap into them. We're then going to take our purple and white wire, that's our brake signal wire. And we're going to cut that wire and tap into it for our relay.Make sure you give yourself enough coming off of both ends, and then strip back both ends. Now we have our harness here from our brake light relay kit. We're going to be making some connections to that, into the wiring in the car. We'll start with our red wire. Crimping on a blue butt connector. The other end of the connector, we'll be connecting to the brown wire that we ran inside. Then going to connect our blue wire from our harness. Along with the black wire that we had run in for our brake light signal. It's going to go to our RV to a butt connector. The other end of this butt connector is going to go to the connector side of the wire that we just cut.Now we'll connect another blue butt connector to our black wire from our harness. And that'll connect to the other end of the wire that we cut. You can remove that bolt with a 10 millimeter socket. Now connect the ring terminal to your white wire. You can pick up ring terminals here at etrailer.com. And we're going to connect that back through the bolt that we just removed to get our ground. We can now plug out brake light switch back in. And then plug your relay in. It'll only plug in one way. You can tidy up your wires and make sure everything works properly.Now we'll need to tap in our brown wire that we ran inside to the brown wire from our wiring diode kit here. This is what will allow the RV's tail lamp signal to disable the brake lamp signal in the vehicle. Now twist the brown wire that we ran inside. And with one side of the brown wire that we just cut out here. We'll be connecting those with the yellow heat shrink butt connector. You can pick up some of these here at etrailer.com. And then connect the other end to the other end of the brown wire that you just cut.Next we'll install our seat adaptor for our braking system. Remove the plastic caps located at the front of your seat. It's easiest to do this when the seat's in the furthest rear position. We just use a screw driver to pop the cap up. You just get it in-between the seam and pry up. Do that for both caps. Next remove the two bolts, located underneath that cover with a 13 millimeter socket. Now we'll install the bracket using the hardware that it came with. Slide the bolts with the washer and lock washer on it down through the bracket, and it's based on the other side. Do that on both sides.We'll then use these bolts to thread into the location where our old bolts came out of. Then tighten down the bolts with a 17 millimeter socket. You can now reinstall your panels on the outside that we removed. Line that up. We'll go ahead and put our intake for our air filter in as well. We can then reinstall the push pins. And then reinstall the bolt connecting your air filter duct work, using an eight millimeter socket.Here at the back of the RV, we mounted up our quick connect for our air line. We just ran a couple self tapping screws right underneath our seven bolt bracket. And right next to that, we began our brake signal wire. We ran this wire all the way up to the front, and we routed our hosing to the surface port on our air brake system. Now every RV is going to be slightly different, but we followed our factory wiring and down the frame as much as possible to avoid any moving objects. Such as steering suspension, or any hot objects, such as your exhaust. If I found any brackets along the way that kept it up and safe, I hooked it to those as well.Just in front of our rear axle's where you can find your brake relay valve, where we tapped in our air line. And our shiny black hose there is the one that we routed from our port in the back. We tapped into that using the T fitting sand compression fittings provided in the kit. And then we took our power line, and ran it all the way to the front, through the firewall, and into the coach of the RV.After we finish getting it to the front, we came up, drilled the small hole in the firewall here and ran our wire through. Now we'll mount our LED, and connect it to the wires and ground. So that way it'll operate when we have the brakes applied in our towed vehicle. And here inside of our vehicle we've got our power wire that we ran from the back. We can now find a suitable location, we're going to put ours right here. Just checking behind to make sure that we're not going to drill into anything. We're going to drill out a hole with a five-sixteenths drill bit.Once you've got your hole drilled out, line up your road masters sticker, put it in place. Then slide your LED through the sticker, through your hole, and snap it into place. Now the wire coming off our LED light's not going to reach a ground point. So we're going to have to run some additional wire. And we'll use a ring terminal to get that ground from our body. You can pick up some ring terminals in addition to wire here at etrailer.com. Crimp the ring terminal on the wire. Here on the outside, we're going to use a self tapping screw, which you can also pick up here at etrailer.We'll then use the wire we already ran in to run this wire in. We'll then take a small piece of electrical tape, tape our wire to it. And use that to pull it back through, and bring it on the inside. And then pull your wire through. Now we've got our grand wire that we need as well. And now we'll hook up our white wire that we ran inside to the white wire from our LED. We'll hook the black wire that we ran inside to the red wire to the LED. We'll use this using yellow butt connectors provided in your kit.All our systems are installed. It's time to hook everything up and try it out. We've got our tow bars hooked up to our vehicle. So for our braking system, we'll need to hook up our break away switch cable. And we'll connect that to our brake away switch, with the carabineer here. And you want to make sure you hook onto your safety chain loop up on your motor home. And if you're carabineer's too small to hook onto your safety chain, you can just loop the cable around it and hook it to itself.We now need to hook up our air supply line for our braking system. The female end will hook to the vehicle. So remove your dust cap, and it'll just quick connect right into place. Also, for your brake signal warning light, you want to plug in a little quick connect here. On your motor home, you'll plug the male end into the female quick connect. And complete the circuit for your brake system warning light. Before you can flat tow your vehicle and hook up your cylinder, you want to make sure you've discharged all the vacuum out of your vacuum brake booster.You can do this by simply pressing the brake pedal about three or four times. Next, we'll hook up our cylinder to our pedal. Release the pin, pull the lever back. And now it can be adjusted to the length of your pedal. Hook the bottom side first, and then you can pull the top up and over. Now you can slide the locking arm back up and put the safety pin in. Now we'll hook it to our anchor point. Now we have too much extension here, so we're going to need to adjust our bottom beam. So that way we have just a little bit of pole pressure, but not too much. Loosen up both nuts using a 13 millimeter wrench and socket.Slide out the bolts, and adjust it until it's appropriate. We're going to kind of eyeball it up here. It looks like we put it at about this position. We'll have just a little bit of tension. So we'll just work it back in now. After you've got them tightened down, go ahead and hook it up to your anchor point. Use the pin provided. Slide it through both the clevis at the end of your cylinder, and on your anchor point. And then lock it down. Now take your air fitting, and hook it into the female quick connect that was previously installed.So now to test everything out, we've got our RV hooked up and our vehicle in tow mode. Now we'll hit the brakes in our RV. And as you can see the cylinder's applying the brakes on our towed vehicle, and everything's working properly. Now here we are in the RV. And you can see when we hit the brake on our RV, the indicator shows us that the brake in our vehicle is being applied as well. To get our vehicle flat towed behind our RV, we used Road Masters easy five base plate. Road Masters tow bar wiring kit. Road Masters brake light relay. Road Masters tow bars. Road Masters braking system. And Road Masters high low adapter.And that completes our installation of Road Masters brake masters system on our 2017 Ford F150.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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