bing tracking image

Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit Installation - 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

content loading

Customers compare RM-15267 to these similar products

Products Featured in this Video

How to Install the Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Today on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we will be having a look at and installing the Roadmaster diode seven-wire to six-wire flexo-coil wiring kit, part number RM-15267, in conjunction with the Roadmaster battery charge line kit for towed vehicles, part number RM-156-25. Here's what our wiring looks like installed. You see we have a nice six-way round connector on the front of our Jeep, with a nice spring-loaded dust cover here, which snaps shut to keep the dirt and elements out of our connector when it's not in use. We have a seven-way RV connector that plugs in the back of our motor home, which adapts down to our six-way round right here. This will give us the umbilical connection that we need in order to transfer our lighting functions from the RV back to our Jeep, thus treating it as a trailer. The diodes that we are using with this kit make it so that we can utilize the vehicle's factory light bulbs and our tail-light assemblies. This way we're not adding an extra bulb to it, or using magnetic tow lights, which you see in a lot of vehicles being flat-towed behind motor homes. This is a nice, clean solution so you just have to plug one cable in between the mobile home and your Jeep when you're towing it, and you don't have to worry about removing lights and having a place to store them.

Just make your connection and you're good to go. The diodes are a nice thing to have because they will prevent any voltage from the motor home back-feeding into our vehicle's expensive lighting or computer circuits. They only allow the voltage and power to flow one direction, so when we're not flat-towing our vehicle, we can still have functional tail-lights, brake lights, and turn-signals without a problem. Making our connection is as simple as once we're plugged in the RV, lift up our dust-cover, align our slot, plug the connector in until it locks into place. Now, my favorite thing about this kit is it has everything that we need. It has our seven-to-six way. We have our four diodes that we need to properly install the system, and all the wiring to make all of our connections.

To begin our install we're at the front of our vehicle. We've already routed the wiring behind our fascia when we installed our base plate. The four pole flat wiring here is what comes with our kit. This additional red wire here is a charge line wire. It's sold separately as part number RM-156-25.

We can use this to charge our vehicle's battery when it's being flat towed behind our motor home. We use the provided wire loom here to secure all of our wires and to help hide them behind our grill opening in our vehicle, so we don't have any color wires sticking out behind the grill, giving us nice clean look. We'll start by separating our four pole flat wire. With five separate wires now, we can strip back the insulation a little bit from each wire. The white wire here is our ground wire. The brown wire here is our taillight and running light circuit.

The yellow wire is our left turn signal and left brake light. The green wire is our right turn signal and right brake light. Now we'll take our six-way round connector here, take off the dust cover here at the end and slide it over all of our wires. We'll start with our ground wire, that'll go to the terminal marked GD. We'll loosen the small set screw. Let's twist these nice and together, nice and tight. Then we'll insert it into the terminal. Then tighten down the set screw. Now we'll do our taillight and marker lights, that goes to terminal marked TM. Now we'll do our left turn signal, that's one marked LT. This is also our left brake light. Now we'll do the right turn signal and right brake light, the terminal marked RT. Now we'll do our charge line wire from the separate kit that we're installing at the same time. The reason we're doing this is because it shares the same connector. Now we'll go to our center terminal marked A for auxiliary. Now make sure all of our wires are in there nice and secure, which they are. Now we're going to use some dielectric contact grease which we have available on our website and coat inside our connector here. This'll help prevent any corrosion from occurring potentially causing a short or poor connection. We can now slide our dust cover back on down until it hits the ridge here and we'll take some electrical tape and we'll tape the dust cover to the connector and go back along our wire loom here. This'll help even prevent more moisture or dirt or debris from entering. Now we'll mount our connector to the prongs off of our base plate using the self tapping screws that came with the base plate. Get one started then do the other one. Make sure they're snugged down all the way. That gives us a nice solid connection for our towed vehicle lighting system and our charge line. We routed our wiring with the loom on up behind the bumper here, then it goes to the side of our radiator through this panel. Where it comes up right here, comes along the air box, the side of it and then behind this panel here, this part of our battery box. Our four pole flat wire we dropped down behind the battery box and we left our charge wire right here, so we can make our connections to our battery and our circuit breaker. We're going to mount it right here next our fire wall on the passenger side near our battery using the provided 5/16 self tapping screws that come with our charge line kit. Our breakers now securely mounted. Measure off how much wire we're going to need to connect to the gold terminal that's the one marked battery. We'll cut off the excess right here. We'll strip off some insulation from the wire. Take one of our small ring terminals, slide it over the wire and we'll crimp it into place. Remove the nut from that terminal, slide the terminal over the stud, reinstall the nut. Make sure that we have enough wire left over to make our connection and we do. We'll strip off insulation, placing our small ring terminal on one end, crimp it. The other end we'll strip off some insulation and attach our large ring terminal. Then we'll crimp that down. Place our small ring terminal over the remaining silver stud, the one marked auxiliary. Now we'll remove this 10 millimeter nut right here. Slide the terminal over the stud, reinstall the nut and we'll tighten up the two nuts on the breaker now. With that done, that completes our install for the charge line. We're underneath our Jeep now. We'll show you where our four pole flat wire was routed down behind our fire wall. You can see it come down here. We followed on the inside of our passenger frame and secured it with a couple zip ties to this wiring harness. It goes up and over our fuel tank still against the frame. We go over our rear frame section here, have it secured with another zip tie here by our shock mount. We made sure we kept away from any moving parts or sources of heat when we routed it, that way it doesn't become damaged. Now if we look straight up, we'll see this triangular black plastic panel. We need to knock this out of the way into our pocket behind our taillight, so we can run our wire on up into there. Just use a pry bar. Just punch it on up. We're on our passenger side of the vehicle. We need to remove our taillight assembly now. There's four screws, we don't need to concern ourselves with the two closest to the tailgate on our vehicle. Now we can grab the assembly and pull it off. Find a connector right here, push in on this tab right here and pull back. We'll set this aside where it won't get damaged. You can see our panel where we knocked it up. We have this insulation that's covering it. We'll just grab that, remove it. As you can see here's all the insulation that came out from the vehicle. We don't need this anymore. We can just throw it away. Here's our panel that we we're talking about earlier. This is the one that we knocked out from underneath. We'll set this aside for right now. We'll reach down and pull our wires on up into this pocket. Now like we did on the front, we'll separate all four of wires. We'll drop back down the yellow wire because this is for our left side of the vehicle. Our white wire again is our ground wire. We measure off about four inches from the outside of our taillight pocket. We'll cut off the rest, strip back some insulation. Take our ring terminal, slide it over the wire, crimp it on down. We'll attach this to the vehicle's sheet metal with the provided self tapping screw, it's a 5/16 head on it. That gives us a nice solid ground point for our wire to work with. Now we're going to take off some of this electrical loom that covers up our taillight connector here. Let's peel back the tape a little bit and we'll cut that loom off, making sure there's no wires inside of it. Now we'll turn on our vehicle's headlights and determine which one of our wires is our taillight wire. I have our test light grounded to the self tapping screw that we installed for our ground wire. This way we an test our ground to make sure it's working properly and determine which one of wires is for our taillights. It's this middle terminal closest to our locking tab and that is our purple and white wire. Now we can turn off our headlights and make our connection on that wire for the taillights. We'll take our purple and white wire and just cut it right here in the middle. We'll strip back the insulation from both ends. Using our diode pack here that has a yellow connector on it. The diode packs are all the same, it's just we need the yellow connector of this one for this particular diode pack. We'll use our blue ones right now, stick them onto the wire and crimp them into place. Give them a little tug to make sure they're secure, then crimp it down. Take our diode pack now, the side that says out, is one that only has one connector on it will go towards the connector to our taillight. The other end of the wire will go to one of the inputs, doesn't matter which one. Now we'll measure off little bit of our brown wire here, cut off the excess, strip back some insulation. Take the brown wire that we just cut off, strip back the insulation from one end and we'll twist the two together. Take our yellow spay connector now, slide it onto the wire and we'll crimp it into place. Then we'll plug that into the other input side of the diode pack. The remaining brown wire will drop down through our hole. Now we turned on our turn signal, so we can determine which wire is going to be our turn signal wire. It's going to be the same wire as our brake light wire as well. That's the top right wire and that is our yellow and white wire. We'll cut our yellow and white wire right here in the middle, strip back the insulation from both ends. Now we'll take one of our diode packs that has all blue connectors on it, remove those, stick our connectors over the wires and crimp them on down. Again, the output side of our diode goes towards our connector. The other end will go to one of the inputs. Now we'll take our green wire, measure off some slack, cut off the excess, strip back some insulation, put on our spay connector, crimp it on down and plug that in to the other input side. Now we'll peel off the backing, the double sided tape of one of our diode packs and we'll just stick it on top of the other one. Here's our panel again. We're going to cut a notch in it. That's a big enough notch for our wires, so we'll just stick this in position, with the wires going through that notch. You can see the wires coming through the notch in the panel that we made and the panel will snap back into place securely now. Now our brown wire that we extended and our yellow wire we ran over the heat shield of our exhaust, this'll help protect it from the heat, comes up and over. Then we have it zip tied to this wiring harness here to help hold it up and out of the way. Now we'll remove our driver side taillight, removing the same two end screws. The drivers' side's a little bit different. We have two connectors here. This is because our vehicle has a factory tow package on it and that one right here is where the tow package comes into play. You may or may not have this on your Jeep. We'll slide down this red tab here away from the connector, push in on the lock tab underneath. Separate the connector, we'll push in on the tab over here and separate that connector. We'll just rest the taillight away over here. This connector right here is our wiring harness where our taillight gets power from. We have our headlights turn on again, now we'll double check and see which wire is for our taillight. It's this middle terminal next to our tab here. That is our orange and our white wire. We'll take our orange and white wire, we'll cut it right in the middle here. We'll strip back the insulation on both ends and we'll stick on our blue spay connectors. The only ones we have left at this point, crimp those on down. Sometimes it's easier to hold the connector in your tool, as you place in the wire, don't have to worry about dropping it. Take our diode pack, output goes towards the connector and the input gets the other side. Now we need to pull our wires on up from down below. Now our wires are really easy to pull up. There's just a piece of little foam there that you can reach down, stick your hand through right by your fuel tank nozzle. Now we're going to use our brown wire here, cut off the excess, strip back the insulation, place on our terminal and we'll crimp it into place. We'll plug that into the other input side of our diode. Use our test light again with our turn signal on and it's our top right wire, which is our green and white wire. Now we'll turn our turn signal off and make our connection there. We'll cut our green wire right in the middle, strip back our insulation, and we'll place on our spay connectors, crimp them on down. Our output side again goes toward our connector, one of the inputs right here, the other end of the wire. Take our yellow wire now, cut off the excess, strip back the insulation, slide on our spay connector, and crimp it down into place. Now we'll plug that in to the other input side of our diode pack. Now we'll peel off our double sided tape, stick our diodes together. Now that we have all of our connections made, we can reinstall our taillight assembly. Now we're going to test our wiring. We have our seven to six way umbilical plugged into our tow doctor trailer tester. We have these available on our website if you like to purchase one. You can also just hook up to your RV. We'll start off by running our taillight function to make sure they're working properly and then our left brake light, followed by our right brake light. As you can see everything here's working fine. That completes our look at and installation of the Roadmaster diode seven-wire to six-wire flexo-coil wiring kit, part number RM-15267, in conjunction with the Roadmaster battery charge line kit, part number RM-156-25 on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Nathan S.

Very good and informative video on the installation of the wiring kit. I installed the wiring in the same manner as your instructional video, I thought. Upon our test drive while towing, my wife informed me that the brake lights would flicker on and off at times. I have rechecked my installation and can't figure out what the problem is. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

Are they flickering while driving the vehicle around, when only in the flat towed configuration, or both?

Reply from Nathan S.

They only flicker when it's being towed. @JonG

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

@NathanS Thank you for the reply! Since they only flicker when being flat towed it makes me wonder if there is some corrosion on your RV side connector or if there is some wiring damage. If you have a set of magnetic lights or something else you can plug in and drive around with your motorhome I bet those lights would flicker too. Try inspecting the wiring and connections to make sure everything is secure and undamaged.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video Edited:
Zach D

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.