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Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit Installation - 2014 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit on a 2014 Ford F-150


Today in 2014 Ford F-150, we will be installing the Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Flexo Wire Coiling Kit, part number RN-15267. Here's what our kit consist of. Most importantly, we have our wire here, our Flexo-Coil, which will connect the 7-way to our RV, and then the 6-pull round to the front of our vehicle that we're towing behind the RV. With this 6-pull round connector here, which we can secure to the front of our vehicle, using this bracket, like so. We have our 4 diodes here, that will allow us to tap in to our factory wiring, and not have to worry about a second control box, or module box. This will allow us to use the factory lights on the vehicle, without causing any damage to electrical system because the diodes will only allow current to pass in one direction, from either the vehicle side itself, to the factory lights while driving the vehicle, or the towed input, from the RV. It'll isolate the system, and still power the factory lights. We also have a roll of 4 pole flat, wiring here, to make our connection from our 6 pole round connector to our dio-packs.

We also have a ring terminal, and a cell taping screw to grind our wiring out to the sheet metal. Couple screws to secure our bracket and our connector together. Several zip ties here to help secure wiring to our vehicle, so we don't have to worry about it dragging on the ground. Then we also have wire loom here, to help conceal our wiring here behind our inaudible 00:01:52 our vehicle. Now, this is a very nice kit, like I said. It allows us to use our factory lights and isolate them from the rest of the vehicle so we don't have to worry about any electrical back feed happening to our system. Now the first thing we need to do is find a suitable place to mount our bracket for our electrical connector.

Right here in our grill opening would be a perfect spot for that. You just want to make sure that there's nothing underneath that we might drill through. There's not wires, or any hoses, or any pipes, or anything like that. It's a nice big opening here behind this plastic opening here, and it's a fairly thick plastic, so it'll be a nice solid and secure location to mount. We'll set our bracket here in place. Center it up.

Make sure it's nice and flush, there. We'll come in from behind and press down gently with out paint marker to mark where our holes are going to go. All right, perfect. Not we'll come in here with short drill bit. Make a pilot hole. All right, with our pilot hole, that'll give us something to aim for when we use a larger drill bit.

All right, the shorter the drill bit you have, the better. Okay. Do the same for the other one here. Okay, perfect. Now we have a nice whole of for our bracket to screw on to. Okay, so I found some hardware laying around that'll work to install our bracket. I got 2 flat head screws here that are black, so they'll hide nicely in our bumper here. Two star lock nuts that fit onto our screws, and 2 fender washers that will do underneath our plastic here. To give us a nice solid sandwich between the plastic and this bracket to make sure it doesn't pull the screws out for any reason and cause damage to the plastic. We want to make sure we have a nice solid mount for our connector. None of this hardware that we had here is included with it, you have to provide your own for mounting the bracket to your bumper cover. So, we'll drop our flat head screws on down, like so, and install out bracket over the bumper, like that. Come in from behind with our washer, and our nut. Okay, got one started. Do the same for the other screw. We have a plastic under body of our bumper cover here for airflow. This helps make the vehicle more fuel efficient. If you take all of this off, you can get to these screws a little bit easier from the bottom. But if you can bend your wrists at a really good angle like I'm doing, you can tighten all this hardware without removing anything extra. Save yourself some time. We'll hold our nut in place with our wrench, like so, and we'll tighten our screw down. Do the same for both of them. All right, perfect. Now I want to take a length of our wire here. Looks to be about 2 feet right here. We're going to take some electrical tape, and we're gonna take around our wire. Just so we don't have to see any of the colored wire behind our grill opening in the front of our truck. You can also use this wire loom to do that. However, I think this is a little bit more noticeable than taping up the wire itself. So we're gonna go ahead and tape it off. It's personal preference. You can do it however you wish. I just think this gives it a little cleaner insulation. Okay, now that we got, where we started, about 4 inches left not taped off. Go ahead and we'll separate our wires here. We'll just cut in-between them, and we'll pull them on back. Then we'll strip off about a quarter inch of insulation from all 4 wires. Twist our wires together, just so they all enter our connector nice and smoothly, with no stragglers of wires stray, and sticking out. Take our connector here, take off the rubber dust cap, and we'll go ahead and stick our wires on through there. We'll go down the wire, and get it out of our way. Now we'll take our electrical connector here. On the back, you can see that it's clearly labeled. We'll start with this one marked GD, that's for our ground. We'll loosen the set screw on it. Take our wires. The ground wire will be our white wire here. We'll insert it in there, and we'll re-tighten our set screw. Okay, with our wire in, we'll pull back here. Make sure it's not it's nice and secure; and it is. Move onto our next one. We'll go to the one right to the side of it. It's LT, that's for our left turn signal, and it'll be our left break light as well. That we'll get our yellow wire right here, and tighten down the set screw. Pull back, make sure it's secure. We'll move on to our right turn signal, next to that. It gets our green wire. Check it too. We're good. Then we'll go the one marked TM. That's for our taillight s, or marker lights, and that gets our final brown wire. We'll go ahead and tighten that down. Pull back on it, make sure it's secure. Then we'll take our cap, and reinstall it. Now, with our cap on, we'll take our electrical tape here, and we will thoroughly wrap around the cap to give us a nice little seal, so we don't have to worry about any dirt, debris, or moisture for coming in and damaging our electrical connection. Just like so, and secure our wires. You will continue until we'll covering up the electrical tape that we've already wrapped on. Now, at the other end of our wire, stick it through the hole, and we'll just feed it on through. Now, with our connector here, we'll push it on to our bracket. Like so, and we'll secure it with the included screws and nuts. We'll take our screw, stick it on through, and put our nut on the back side. Now you'll want a lock nut. So the same for the other side. Take a wrench. Hold it out in place, and we'll tighten our screws. As you can see, we have a nice easy to use connection for the harness between our truck, and our RV. All right, now that we have our wire connected to our front, we need route it to the back of our vehicle. When we're doing that, we want to take into special consideration to avoid any moving parts, such as the drive line, the suspension, the axles. We also want to avoid any sources of heat. I'm going to go ahead and route it, and I'm going to show you the direction that I went when it's undone. This our wires hanging down right here a little bit. We went above this splash shield here, above this skid plate here, then you can it coming through here. We went down through this skid plate a bit, and out. Then there's a wiring harness on the outside edge of our drivers frame. We went ahead and zip tied to the back of it, down the length of it. Just to help hide the wires. So, we'll just off our excess zip ties. All right, now we transitioned over to our drivers side. You can see how the wires tucked up nicely behind the factory wiring harness here. We secured it. You may want to purchase some extra zip ties. We have them available on our website, because I did use every single one that came with the kit, and then some. I'm gonna continue following this harness wire up, and then I went around this bracket here, where the bed of our truck bolts to the frame. Now we'll go back underneath, and I'll show you where I secured it. Now our wiring harness continues on to the inside of our frame. So, I secured it to that again, and a couple spots behind the gas tank, and right next to our spare tire. Then, for the wiring harness go into our license plate lights. We secured it to that. Then we went over our frame again, and out to side of our vehicle, by our taillight where we can pull it up behind our taillight s. With our tail gate down, we'll go ahead and remove our taillight assemblies on either side of the vehicle. They're held in place with two 8-millimeter screws. I'm gonna pull the light towards us. We'll go ahead and remove our bulbs from our light, and we'll set assembly aside, so it's not in the way. Now we're going to take a pole wire here to bring our wire up from underneath. Just using a piece of airline tubing here. If you don't have anything like this, just something semi-flexible and rigid will still work, such as a coat hanger. We're gonna drop it down, through this hole that goes down to the bottom, behind our taillight , and we'll pull it out from the bottom. Right there. Now we'll take some electrical tape and we'll tape our wire to our pull wire here. We'll just take some electrical tape, and we'll wrap it up, like so. We'll take our pull wire, and we'll pull it on up. With that done, we can now disconnect our pull wire from our wires. Now we're going to go ahead and separate our wires, just like we did in the front. Now on the F150 that we have here today, there's 3 bulbs back here. The small one here is our reverse light bulb. We don't need to do anything with that. These 2 bulbs here do exactly the same purpose. Ones on the bottom, and ones on the top. These function as our taillight s, our turn signals, and our brake lights. Now our dio-packs will only allow us to tap into one. If you wanted to, you probably could, further down the steam in the wiring, combine it so you would be able to control both. But, it won't be easy to get to, so we're just going to go ahead and use our top one here. Now we're gonna take some of this loom off here so we can have assess to our wires. Let's take the electrical tape off. Okay, with that there, we have enough wire to work with now. We'll cut off this excess loom, just so it's not in our way. Now we'll unplug our bulb here by pushing in on this tab, removing. We'll take our test light. Go to a good ground source. And we'll turn our headlights on so we can find out which one of these wires is for our taillight s. Okay, it says middle terminal. It's this yellow and green wire. We're going to go ahead and turn our headlights off now. We'll cut right about here in the middle. Take the wire strippers. Trim back both ends. We'll take our dio-pack here, that has the yellow connector on it. Take all of our connectors off. Twist our wires together. Insert the blue connector over one end. Crimp it on. Take the other blue connector here. Stick it on the other end, and we'll cramp it together. With that done, we'll take our dio-pack. The side that says output will go towards our connector that went to the bulb. We'll plug it in, and then the factory wiring will go to either one of these inputs, it doesn't matter which one. Okay. Now we'll take our brown wire here, and measure off about how much we need. We'll cut it. Strip off some insulation. Just like so. Twist it together. Now, we need to make a jumper wire to go to the other side. Now, the excess brown wire that we had is not long enough. This vehicles fairly long, so you'll need to have some additional wire. Okay, so I found a sufficient length of brown wire here. We'll cut off some insulation. We'll take our two brown wires, and we will twist them together. We'll take our yellow spade terminal, that we removed from our diodes, and we will crimp it on down over our wire. Okay. Good. Now we will install this on the other input side of our dio-pack, just like so. Now the brown wire that we have, we will drop this down through the same hole that we pulled the wire up through. We'll pull it out the bottom. Our green wire here, we're gonna go ahead and attach an extension too, just like we did on the brown wire, and we'll rout this over to the passengers side, down through the same hole that we just did. I'm going to separate this wire fully, and stick it down underneath our bumper, and then I'll make our connection underneath. Strip off one end. Take our new green wire, strip off another end, and we'll join the two together in a butt connector. We don't have any butt connectors in our kit here, but we do have some blue heat shrink butt connectors available on our website. We'll install our butt connector. Crimp it down. Take our extension wire that we made. Install it in the other end of the butt connector. We'll crimp it down. Now we use a heat gun here and seal up our butt connector. As you can see, once you apply heat to the butt connector, it seals up and you have this material that comes out and proves us with a nice weather tight connection. Now we'll take some of our white wire here. Cut off the excess. Strip off some of the insulation. We'll take our ring terminal that we have. Install it over there, and we'll crimp it on down to our wire, just like so. Now we'll take out self tapping screw. In our case here, we have a 5/16's. Stick our ring terminal over the screw, like so. It may help if you have an extension for your screw driver, just so you can in there easy. Take our wire, and we'll go right here. Okay. Now we have a nice, solid ground point for our wiring harness. Now we turned our hazards on so we can determine which wire is for our turn signal. Since we're treating our truck as a trailer, behind our RV, the turn signal will also function as the break. It'll be this gray and brown wire here on the drivers side. I'll turn our hazards off now. We'll measure off about the same place as we did the other one, about half way down the wire, and we'll make a cut in it. We will strip out the insulation in both ends. Take another one of our dio-packs, take off one of our connectors. Place one wire on, crimp it down. Same with the other one. Make sure our connectors are on nice and right. They are. Take our dio-pack, again, the output side goes towards our connector. This can go to one of the inputs. Take our yellow wire here, cut off some of the excess. Strip off the insulation. Take our final connector here, place on the wire, crimp it down. Take our dio-pack here, and plug it into the other input side. Just like so. Now we can reinstall our bulb here. Let's push in till it clicks into place, just like so. Now we'll remove our taillight on the passengers side. Again, 8-millimeter screws. We'll pull the taillight out towards us, and remove our bulbs. I'll set our taillight to the side, so it doesn't get damaged. We'll unplug our top bulb again by pushing in the tab, pulling the bulb out, and sitting it aside. We'll turn out headlights back on, and find out which wires our taillight signal. Again, it's the middle wire; the green and yellow one. Now with our headlights turned off, we can remove our insulation that covers up our wires, just like we did on the other side. Cut this wire loom again. Take our green and yellow wire here, cut it right in the middle. Strip it back, both ends. Take one of our dio-packs again. Remember the output side goes towards the connector. The other end goes towards one of the inputs, doesn't matter which. Okay, good. Take our pole wire again, and drop it down through hole, till it comes out the bottom, just like so. Here's our green and brown wires. I'm just pulling them down through. We're gonna rout them behind our spare tire and the bumper, up over our frame. We'll tape them to our pole wire here, just like so. We will go ahead and pull them on up. Remove our pole wire. We'll take our brown wire, cut off our excess. Strip back the insulation. Install our connector, and we'll install it to the other input side, just like so. Now if our hazards turn on again, we'll find out with wire controls our turn signal. It's this purple and orange wire. We'll go ahead and turn our hazards off. We'll take our purple and orange wire, cut it right in the middle. We'll strip it back. Take our final dio-pack, install our connectors. Take our doid, output towards the connector, and the other wire towards one of the inputs. We'll take our green wire here, and we'll cut off our excess. Strip back the insulation. Take our last big connector, slide it on, crimp it on. We'll install our connector. We can take our bulb now, plug it back in. Okay. Now we'll peel off the cover here that holds our double sided tape together on the dio-packs, and we'll stick them together, just like so. We'll take our electrical tape, and we will tape up our connections. Just to help seal them from moisture. Do the same on the other side. Now we'll take our lights. I'll reinstall our taillight assembly. Do the top one first. Then the reverse light. Now we'll do the bottom one. Okay. Got them all back in. We'll push our taillight assembly back onto our truck. Making sure that we got all the pins lined back up, which we do. We'll push in till it clips. Reinstall our two screws. Do the same on the other side. Okay. We can now close our tailgate. We turned our headlights on and our hazards. As you can see, we have both our taillights working, and both of our turn signal and break lights working on both sides of our vehicle, so we know our factory wiring is working just find. We did not compromise any of the functions on that. Now we have a 7-way simulator right here. We'll plug our cable that we have, comes with the kit, into the 7-way. We'll take our 6-way here, and we'll plug it into our vehicle. Now we can test all of our functions to see if the lights will function properly. All right, now we'll go ahead and turn our taillights. As you can see both of our top bulbs illuminate for our taillight functions. Now, I will activate our left turn signal/break light, and you can see our left one illuminates brighter that it did as the taillight. I'll turn our right one now, and as you can see it illuminates brighter than it did as the taillight, as well. So now, the upper bulbs on our F150 will act just like trailer lights, except for the fact that they're using factory light bulbs, so we don't have to have anything tapped in, or any magnetic tow lights on the top of our vehicle. That completes our installation of the Roadmaster diode 7-wire to 6-wire Flexo Coil Wiring Kit, part number RN-15267, on our 2014 Ford F-150.


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