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Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit Installation - 2018 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit on a 2018 Ford F-150


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Ford F150, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster diode seven wire to six wire, Flexo-Coil wiring kit, part number RM-15267.This is what our wiring looks like when it's installed. It's gonna allow you to safely tow your Ford behind your RV when you're traveling, give you all the proper functions for your lights, your brake lights, both turn signals, and your running lights. To complete a flat tow setup, you're gonna need a base plate, wiring, braking system, safety cables, and a tow bar.Now what this is going to do, this is going to take the place of temporary lights that you'd mount on your roof, or on the side of your vehicle, or on the back of your vehicle, that take up a lot of space. You have to take them off every time, fold them up, find some place to store them. These are going to be mounted directly to the factory wiring in your vehicle.Not only are you going to be safe driving down the road and following the rules and laws, you also are going to be comfortable knowing that the factory wiring in your vehicle is not going to be damaged because of the diodes. Those diodes protect your factory wiring in your truck from any back-feed from your RV, and vice versa.

It's going to protect your RV from any back-feed from your truck. When you're not towing behind your RV, you're going to have a spring-loaded cap on the front of your plug that's going to protect any of your connections from debris or getting moisture in them.Your kit's also going to come with a six to seven pole Flexi-Coil extension to plug into the front of your truck to the back of your RV. It's going to allow you to properly run your lights while you're towing your vehicle. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.First thing we're going to do to start our installation, and we're going to remove our passenger side taillight. We're going to have two bolts here.

We're going to use an eight millimeter socket to remove them. Next, we need to remove our taillight. We're gently going to pry out on it, and we're going to take a plastic trim panel tool. We're going to stick it in between the taillight and the body, and we're just going to gently pry back like that. Go ahead and remove our wiring, push in on this tab here, and pull out.

Next, we want to peel back our tape and this wire loom. There's plenty room for getting ahold of our wires.Next, we're going to take our wire that comes in our kit, we're just going to feed it right up through behind our fender, like that. What we need to do is we need to separate our green wire from our kit. We'll pull the rest of it down. We're going to determine through testing that our blue wire with our orange stripe on it is going to be for our running lights, and this green wire right here with the orange stripe is going to be our brake lights and our turn signal.

First thing we're going to do is we're going to splice into this wire, and I'm going to cut my blue wire. We're going to splice it. We'll add one of the connectors off our diode, crimp it down. We'll add the other butt connector onto the other end of the blue wire. Then, we're going to take our other one. We're going to have to go up into the vehicle, and then our yellow one is going to get a split between our brown wire and the wire that's going to run across to the other taillight.Next I'm going to take my yellow and my white wire, and I'm going to strip them back. My yellow wire is going to be running over to my driver's side taillight. My white wire or my extra white wire, I'm going to cut this down, it's going to be a ground, and I'm going to use my extra to make a jumper from my passenger side to my driver's side. I want to take my brown wire, I'm going to cut it in half, I'm going to strip both ends, and I'm going to strip this just a little bit long. I'm going to tie these two together. That'll go on there. We're going to feed this part of this brown wire back down to the bottom side of the vehicle.We'll take the green wire with the orange stripe and we'll strip both ends. We're going to take our next diode, crimp it down onto the other end of our green wire or green and orange wire, our factory wire. Make sure that the out is facing towards the plug. Next we'll take our green wire, cut it to the necessary length, strip it back and on our last connector passenger side, put that one inaudible 00:05:21 to the other end of the hole into the diode. I'm going to take just a little bit of silicone and I'm going to fill the gap in so that any moisture doesn't sit down in there and corrode the connection points.We'll peel off the sticky side on one of them. I'm going to stick it right to the other one. Next I want to mount my diodes to the body of the vehicle, so we'll clean off a spot right inside of here. Make sure we got enough wire. Going to test it in here. inaudible 00:05:58 like that. We have plenty to go to our plug and our light. I'm going to just tape up my wires just to kind of clean them up a little bit. We'll take our diodes, kind of like that, and we'll reinstall our taillight the opposite of how we took it out. Push it into place. Reinstall the bolts to hold it in.Now we've taken the yellow wire and the white wire, taken it up across the back of the vehicle, up to the driver's side through the taillight housing on the body just like we did on the passenger side. You can see here I've got a little bit extra that I have kind of held back. What I'm going to do is I'm going to cut that wire. The end that's running to the front of the vehicle is going to be my ground. The other end is going to connect into the brown wire that I have coming down from my pass through taillight. We have both wires zip tied to some existing wiring up here in the back.Next I'm going to take my white wire. I'm going to cut it, strip back the one end that is going to the front of the vehicle and we'll add a ring terminal, and then we'll crimp it down. Go ahead and take our included self-tapping screw. We want to make sure we ground this to the body somewhere in the frame, make sure it's on metal. I'm going to go right up here to the body. For other end with the white wire, I'm going to strip it. We'll add the butt connector inaudible 00:07:53. Make sure it's got a good hold. We'll take our brown wire, cut it to length and we'll crimp it into the other end of the connector.Now I did put a heat shrink butt connector on here because it is outside the vehicle. We'll just put a little bit of heat to it. We'll add some electrical tape, give it a little bit of extra protection. Now we've connected our diodes to our driver's side wiring the same we did on our passenger. We determined through testing that the orange wire with the gray stripe is going to be our turn signal and brake light, and then our blue wire with this gray stripe is going to be our running light signal.Now the yellow wire is going to hook into the diode with your orange and gray wire. Again, you want to make sure that the single side of the diode is facing down toward the plug. The blue wire, add your butt connectors. One will go on each side of the diode, and then the white wire that we made as the jumper from our passenger side, is going to go right into the other side of that diode. From here, what we need to do is run the rest of our wire up to the front of the vehicle. What I did is I took some air line tube. You can use wire coat hangers if you want, but you'll need quite a few of them. I ran it right through my frame of the vehicle.I went through this hole and just fed my air line tube through the frame, right through. You see the wiring inside there. This is where our wire comes out in the front. Now if you choose not to run it through the frame or maybe you don't have the option to do that, you can find some existing wiring and route it from the back to the front that way. You just want to make sure you stay away from anything hot or moving.Next we need to find the place to mount our bracket. I can mount it right like that on the bottom. Where I was going to put it before, I found out that it was a little too hard to get up inside behind the bumper fascia to put a nut on the back of it. What I'm going to do is I'm going to move it right up here to this edge. Now what I've done is I've gone ahead and removed the license plate. They're just tabs like this that hold the license plate bracket in place. I think if I put it just like that, it'll work out well. Now the reason I'm moving this to one side is our customer doesn't have a braking system at this time, but if they put one in in the future, they'll have a breakaway switch, and if their RV has air brakes on it, the breakaway switch and then the L bracket for the air nozzle will go here. That way they're all straight and aligned.I'm going to line my bracket up in the correct spot and mark my holes where I need to drill. Next I'm going to take a hole punch, and I'm going to punch the center of both of these. Next I'm going to take a small drill bit and drill a pilot hole first. Then we'll drill it out to the size of nut that we're going to be putting in. I'm going to make a suggestion to pick up a couple of extra long bolts so that when you put your bracket down, there's a piece of plastic inside here and some of the bolts that come with it aren't long enough. That'll hold it up there nicely. It's easy to get to. Put our washer on and nut. Go ahead and get those tightened down into place.Next thing we need to do is we need to bring the rest of our wire to the back of our plug. You can see here I've temporarily installed the plug. If you right here on the back, the rubber boot hits the plastic, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to drill a hole right at the back of it. I'm going to feed my wire through. What I did with my wire is I went over the top of my frame, came down in front of my radiator and went up through and now we'll drill a hole and feed the wire through the hole.Now I'm going to take the wire loom that comes with my kit. I'm going to cover up my wire back here underneath my bumper, over here on the side of my frame, just kind of clean it up a little bit. Next we'll remove our six pole plug here. I'm going to feed our wire through. We're going to take our rubber boot, make sure that the skinny end goes on first. We're going to feed it through just like that. We're going to split our wires apart. We're going to strip each one. You can see on the back we have six openings or sick plugs. We're only going to be using four of them. Our ground, it's marked GD. TM is going to be for our running lights. RT, right turn. LT, left turn. Our green is going to go to our right turn on our passenger side.We're going to put it in the RT. I'm going to use a small screwdriver to tighten it down. Our yellow is for our left turn or driver. TM for our running lights or brown wire, and then our white is going to be our ground. Next we want to take some clear silicone, cover up all your connections to help keep them from corroding. This is going to help keep any moisture from sitting on the connection points. We'll slide our rubber boot over the back of our plug. We're going to tape the edge here and tape it right along here. Now we'll reinstall our plug and our hardware and then tighten it down into place.Next we'll test out our lights using an alternate power source. This is going to simulate being hooked up to your RV. Taillights, left turn, brake lights, right turn. To complete this flat tow setup, we used the base plate part number BX2671, Roadmaster wiring, part number RM-15267. If you have an RV with air brakes, you'll want to use SMI Air Force One, part number SM99243. If your RV does not have air brakes, SMI Stay in Play duo part number SM99251. You're also going to need a tow bar. We used the Blue Ox Avail tow bar, part number BX7420, which comes with safety cables. If your tow bar doesn't have safety cables, you're going to want some to safely tow your vehicle. You can find some here at etrailer.com.That'll do it for look at and installation on the Roadmaster Diode seven wire to six wire Flexo-Coil wiring kit, part number RM-15267 on our 2018 Ford F150.


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