bing tracking image

Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit Installation - 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

content loading

Customers compare RM-152-1676-7 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video






How to Install the Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit on a 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2019 Jeep Wrangler unlimited, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Roadmaster diode wiring kit. So there's going to be a total of five main components needed to flat tow your Jeep down the road safely. The first one's going to be your base plate. And that base plate is going to provide us with a solid and reliable connection point, that way we can hook our tow bar up to it. The tow bar is going to be your second component.

This is going to be the physical link that does most of the work. It's going to actually pull your Jeep behind the motor home. So you'll hook that up here at the front of your Jeep and the other end will go to the back of your motor home. The third main component is going to be safety cables. And these are there in the event of a unlikely disconnect.

These are going to keep your Jeep connected to your motor home. The fourth main component is going to be tow bar wiring. And the wiring is going to transfer the lighting functions from the back of your motor home to the back of your Jeep keeping you safe and legal. And last but not least, is the braking system. And what the braking system is going to do is apply the brakes in your Jeep whenever you hit the brakes in your motor home.

And that's just going to help bring you to a more predictable and safe stop. And this is a perfect example on how the diode wiring is going to work. As you can see, we have the left turn signal on our motor home and it's doing the same thing back here on our Jeep. It's also going to give us that right turn signal as well as our stop and tail lights. So really help keep us safe.

Now, as far as wiring goes for flat tow setups, I definitely think the diode wiring is a way to go and really for a couple of different reasons. The first one is it's going to be super easy to use once you have it installed. So there's really no setup involved. More or less you're just gonna to have to plug a cable in at the front of your Jeep to the back of your motor home. So really convenient and you're not gonna see anything. The other big reason is the fact that it uses diodes. And what those diodes are going to do is protect your Jeep's factory wiring if a short or another electrical issue we're to occur on the motor home side. And that's really important, especially with today's newer vehicles. They have really sophisticated electronic systems and you don't wanna do anything to jeopardize those systems. And because of those diodes, that's something you're not gonna have to worry about. So I mentioned how easy it is to hook up and I'll give you an example of that. So here we have our cable end and this side is just going to get plugged right into the connector here at the front of our Jeep. So you'd line this up, push it in, and then hook the other end of our cable to the back of the motor home. So super straightforward. Now, there's something I do wanna mention is that there's a few different types of these kits. So what I mean by that is, more or less, just what kind of cable you're going to get. So let's go ahead and kind of go over that now. So the one that we have here today we have the straight cable, and this is definitely the option. One of them you would want to go with if your tow bar has these channels in them. That way you can run the cable through the channels and utilize them properly. And another option for those of you that have these channels is what's called a hybrid cable. So part of it is going to be straight so you can run it through your tow bar, and a little section of it here it's going to be coiled. And what that's going to do is kind of eliminate this cable from hanging down a little bit here. Not really a huge deal but just something I thought was worth mentioning. It's something a little different. Another option for those of you that don't have channels in your tow bar, so there's nowhere to run your cable through, would to be to get the coiled kit. So I don't have that one with me but the coiled kit cable's the same as this. Just the whole entire way through it's coil bikes, so and that's because without the channels there's not going to be any way to kind of hold your wiring up off the ground. And since that kit is coiled, it'll keep it nice and straight and high off the ground but still be able to extend when you make those wide turns. And last but not least, there's another kit available that does not come with a cable at all. And that one's there for those of you that have tow bars that come with a cable and a plug. Some of the tow bars will give you a cable and that plug and so you wouldn't need to get a whole another kit that has an extra cable. So if you have that tow bar that comes with those components, you would need to get the kit that, more or less, just comes with the wiring and the diodes. So at the end of the day, honestly this would be the kit that I would go with if I was flat towing. It's gonna look clean and factory. You're not gonna notice it's there once you do have it installed. It's gonna be reliable and keep your Jeep's electrical system protected. And most importantly, it's super easy to use. You're not going to be messing around, wasting a whole lot of time trying to get everything set up so you can flat tow. With that being said, as far as the installation goes, there's really nothing too complicated about it but it does involve routing all that wiring. So it does take a little bit of time. But as long as you stay patient, really shouldn't give you a whole lot of issues. Speaking of which, let's go ahead, pull into the shop, and put it on together now. To begin our installation, we're going to be here at the front of our Jeep. Now I have our bumper removed because I'm doing this the same time that I did our base plate. Just makes it a lot easier. But that being said you don't have to have the bumper removed. It can still be on. And the first thing that we're going to need to do is take one end of our wire and hook it up to our connector plug. So you're gonna grab the rubber boot off your connector plug, we'll slide that over it, then we're gonna separate these wires from each other. So you can kind of just carefully clip down ways and these will just pull apart. I usually go a few inches. And just to kind of help keep everything fresh, I like to kind of clip off maybe a 1/4 inch of the end there. And then we're going to strip the installation back, that way we can actually plug it into our connector. I'll pull off all that much on each wire. Now that we have our wires stripped back, we can grab our plug and get them hooked up. So on the back of it the terminals are going to be labeled. This one will be TM for tail light. So our brown wire will go into it. This one here will be labeled GD for ground. So our white wire will go there. This one here is labeled LT for left turn. So our yellow wire will go to it. And this one here is labeled RT for the right turn. So our green wire will go there. So you're just going to back these set screws out enough to get the wire in there. I don't suggest removing them completely cause they're kind of a little tricky to get back in. But we're just going to take each corresponding wire and hook it up. So we're going to the TM here, which is our brown wire, it'll simply just feed that wire in, and snug up the set screw. So I'll do the same thing for our remaining wires here. So this is what the connector's going to look like once you have all of the wires installed. And then from there you can go ahead and take our rubber cover and just place that over the plug. Now we can start to route our wiring. So what I did is just loosely zip tied this here just to kind of keep it supported until we get everything back together and we can actually connect it to a bracket. With that being said, I shot right over to here and up into the engine compartment, right through this opening underneath our front grill. So here's where our wiring comes up into the engine compartment, then I routed it along through this edge here. And right here in this opening, I left a little bit of extra wire to work with because if you have a braking system that taps in to the diode wiring, something you wanna keep in mind. In our case, we're going to be installing a braking system that does that, so give us some wire to work with. From there, I just ran it down along on our firewall where it drops straight down to the under side of our Jeep. So now underneath of our vehicle, you can see if I just kind of peel our liner back you could see where our wire drops down from the engine compartment along the firewall here and runs behind this body mount along this edge. So here's where our wiring continues. And then right here, what I did was carefully cut the white wire, and the side that was going towards the back of our vehicle, I actually separated that from our three wires here. And you wanna hold on to that piece because we are going to use it here in a little while. But this end of the wire, you've stripped back the installation. This one actually goes to our connector upfront. And we need to make this a ground. So what I've done is strip that back then we're going to take the ring terminal that's included, feed that over the bare end of the wire, and crimp it down. So once we have that attached then we can take the included self-tapping screw and we're gonna run this right through here ,in the body of our vehicle, where it's nice solid metal and will provide us a good ground. Once we have that grounded we can just continue to route our wiring back and securing it here and there using some zip ties. You wanna be sure to avoid any hot moving parts. This is gonna continue on. What about right here in this area I ran it over the top of our frame rail to the inside or underneath of our vehicle. So here's where our wire continues along. And then I ran it up and over our rear subframe here. You'll see it up there. Continues along. So then it's a little tricky to see cause it goes right on top of our frame rail. But what I've done is separated the green wire as well. I didn't cut it or anything, I just split it from the yellow and the brown wire. The yellow and brown wire goes over the frame into this little area here. And what I did was take the extra piece of white wire that we had and just connected it, just twist it around these two ends, and eventually what's gonna happen is these three wires are going to feed up into an opening into the driver's side tail light pocket and get connected there. The other end of that white wire, what I did is attached it to the end of our green wire and those two wires are going to go over to the passenger's side. So I just zip tied them on top of this beam here. So they just run along. And I have these dropping out right here in this pocket, and we're gonna do the same thing. These are gonna run up into that passenger's side tail light pocket. But for the time being, we're gonna let all of our wires just kind of hanging for now and we can go up top and get our lights removed. So to get our tail lights removed, you're gonna wanna open up your hatch and your door here, and then there's gonna be a panel right here on the inside that we can lift off and get to the fastener. So here's that panel I was talking about. Let's take a flathead screwdriver, kind of pry underneath of it, and pop it up and out of the way. And below there, we're gonna have a plastic fastener. And we can grab a 10 millimeter socket and get that removed. So once you have that fastener removed you can just kind of grab your taillight and pop them out. And we're just gonna kind of let this hang here for the time being and do this same process over on the other side. So went ahead and pulled our wiring up through this big opening there from the bottom. Just zip tied it up here to keep everything nice and tidy. And what I'm going to do is take our white wire and our brown wire, I strip back the ends of installation. We're going to twist those together. We're gonna take a yellow spade terminal, put it over both ends, and crimp it down the yellow wire. We're gonna take a blue spade terminal, slide that over the end, and crimp it down as well. All right. So what I went ahead and did was just remove that electrical tape over these factory wires here that way I could test and find the function. And what I found was this solid yellow wire. We're going to use that for our stop and turn signals. And this white wire with the light gray stripe on it, that's going to be our taillight signal. So I'm gonna go up about half way. We're gonna cut those in half. We're gonna strip back the ends of the installation on all four ends. We're gonna take a blue spade terminal then crimp that on. We'll do that same thing here for our three remaining ends. So now that we got all of our ends on there what we can do is take our diodes and we're gonna plug the single terminal on the diode that says out onto the end of our factory wires here that are closest to our taillight. These just push right over. We're gonna go color for color, so the factory yellow wire will plug into the other side of the diode that you have that factory wire in. Same thing for our white and light gray one. And since a yellow wire is our stop and turn, we're going to plug in our new yellow wire. So it makes it pretty straight forward. And then since our white and light gray is our taillight signal, we're going to take our white and brown new wire and plug into that one. So now what we need to do is just secure our diodes and I'm just going to stick them together. So you can peel off that backing paper off each diode. Just push them together. And the way our wiring they are kind of just resting here, there's really no need to secure them anymore. They're going to be just fine. But then we can just re-install our light the opposite way that we removed it. Now, over here on the passenger's side, we essentially did the same exact thing to get everything hooked up. Ran our wires up, used the spade terminals and plugged them into the diodes. Really the only thing different is the color of the factory wires here. So you're going to have a lime green wire. That's going to control your stop and turn. And so your new green wire will plug into that diode and the white wire with a orange stripe, that's going to be your taillight signal. And so your new white wire will plug into that diode. So now it's a good idea to test our wiring so we can make sure that it's working properly. So we can go ahead and try out our tail lights, our left turn signal, our right turn signal, and our brake lights. So now if you picked up the kit that has a straight cable that runs through the channel on your tow bar, now's a great time to get that set up as well. So all you're going to do is take the seven way end of your cable. That's going to face towards your motor home. So this end of your tow bar is going to connect to your vehicle. So we just push a wire through the channel. And one thing I do want to mention, just take a quick look at the back of your motor home, see which side your seven way connector's on. In our case, ours is on the passenger's side, so I'm running the cable or our wire rather on the passenger's side of our tow bar. Just helps really clean things up. Now, with that being said though, the end of the wires are already going to be pre-stripped, as you can see here, but the only issue is we need to hook them up to the included plug. So not a big deal. We'll go ahead and do that now. If you take our plug, you're going to have a set screw here. You just need to loosen that up a couple turns. There's also going to be a screw there as well. So grab our small Phillips, pull that screw out. The connector plug itself will be able to pull out. And then we're going to take the housing and we're going to feed all of our wires through there. Okay. I'm just slide that back for now as well as the wires. So if we take a closer look at the back of our connector plug, each terminal is going to be labeled and that's going to indicate to us what color wire gets plugged in. So we'll kind of just work our way around here. We'll start with this one that's labeled L for left turn. So our yellow wire will go to it. This one's labeled G for ground. So our white wire will go there. This one is labeled T for taillights. So our brown wire will go there. This one is labeled S for our break output. So the blue wire will go there. This one is labeled R for right turn. So the green wire will go to it. And the one in the center is not labeled, however, that's our 12 volt auxiliary power, so our black wire will go there. That being said though, you're just going to back out each set screw. Not all the way, you wanna leave it in there some, but just enough to be able to get the wire itself in. And we'll take the corresponding wire here on our harness, you gotta hold that in, and tighten down the set screw. And so I'll do that for each of the corresponding wires here for the appropriate terminal. So this is what the connector plug will look like once you have all of the wires in. And now that that's done, what I'm gonna do is take some dielectric grease and coat all the terminals. That's just going to help protect them from corrosion. You can grab some of this here at etrailer if you need some. So give that a good coating. Then what we can do is take our housing, slide that back over. Carefully re-install that small screw. So just snug that down. And then we come back to this screw, tighten it down as well. And what that's going to do is kind of clamp the wire to help it from getting pulled out on accident. So with this one, you can tighten it down. You don't need to crank on it by any means. Just, I usually get it snug. Do another 1/8 of a turn or so, and that's usually good enough. So now that we have our other flat tow components installed, we can go ahead and put our bumper back into position and re-secure it the opposite way that we removed it. And don't forget to reconnect any electrical connectors that you may have disconnected while removing the bumper. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Roadmaster diode wiring kit on our 2019 Jeep Wrangler unlimited..


Info for these parts were:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Kevin C
Test Fit:
Kevin C
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.