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Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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How to Install the Roadmaster Diode 7 to 6 Wire Coil Kit on a 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Connor: Hey guys, how's it going Connor here today at We're going to be taking a look at the Roadmaster Diode Wiring Kit, here for our 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500. The Diode Wiring Kit is actually going to be only one of the number of needed components to complete our flat tow setup. A list of some of these other components includes a base plate kit, which provides a attachment point for our tow bar, which is the next item. And then we're going to have a supplemental braking system, which is going to help assist the motorhome in braking where attached to our towed vehicle. Little last but not least, we're going to have some safety cables, which form is an extra barrier of protection.

Essentially in a nutshell, our Roadmaster Diode Wiring Kit are going to provide signals to the rear of our vehicle where attached to the motorhome. Normally when we're driving in our vehicle, the vehicles' battery, as well as some other circuits are going to power our tail lights here.We're going to be able to signal others on the road while we're driving, what we're doing. However, where attached to our motorhome or vehicle isn't going to be running so we need another source to provide these signals in relation to what we're doing in the motorhome. And that's where our Diode Wiring Kit comes into play. In regards to wiring from the tow vehicle and towed vehicle, you have a couple of different options to choose from.

However, this Roadmaster Kit in particular is by far my favorite option. The reason that this is going to be my favorite option is because it has a real seamless install look. We're not going to have any other components like we would for magnetic taillights, where we have wires dangling on the vehicle. We have an actual set of lights mounted to the vehicle magnetically.We don't have to worry about any of that because we're using our vehicles existing taillights. Again, no extra wires, we have a really clean seamless look.

I'm sure you may be wondering if we're going to risk any damage to our towed vehicle being hooked up to the tow vehicle because we're splicing into the taillight circuits. However, that's not going to be an issue here for this Roadmaster Kit because the dials that we have installed between the taillights, they're going to essentially protect the circuits from between the two vehicles. We're not going to have to worry about any power surges, damaging our tow vehicle here. With our Diode wiring system here, we're going to retain the basic lighting functions such as the stop and turn signals for both sides, as well as our tail lights. Now, what I really like about this Roadmaster Kit here, as you can see, we have this very nice and durable coiled umbilical cord, which is going to be our bridge connection point between the towed vehicle and our tow vehicle.What's nice about this coiled connection is, we don't have to worry about our cable dragging on the ground and creating new short circuits.

The coiled connection is going to keep it nice and tight right in line with our tow bar here. Again, we don't have to worry about it dragging on the ground. A couple of other things that come with this Roadmaster Kit, we're actually going to have a mounting bracket, as well as a trailer connector we can install on the vehicle, as well as the umbilical cord and all the other needed components that we're going to want for our installation. We're also going to have a couple extra pins on our trailer side vehicle connector here. If we need to run any other circuits, such as a battery charge line, we're going to have the ability to do so. In regards to installation, this is definitely something that's pretty straightforward, pretty easy to do yourself, definitely something you can do at home as there's not going to be any complex tools required.Everything is going to be pretty much basic what you would find in a normal toolbox. The majority of installation is going to entail running our bonded 4 wire from the front of the vehicle here to the rear, and then splicing into the taillight circuits at the rear. However, we only have to actually make a couple of splices so you don't have to worry about causing any permanent damage to the vehicle. Now that we've gone over some of the benefits and features, let's jump right into installation and show you how easy this is to do yourself. We already have our front bumper facia off because we're installing other flat tow components on the vehicle, like our base plates here. Your front bumper may not already be off or you can remove it for this installation. What we're going to do is we're just going to start by taking our bonded 4 wire here.And I'm just going to tie off to one of these safety chain tabs. We don't have a great place to mount our electrical connector with the front bumper face off. So we're going to wait to do that until we put it back on the vehicle. For now, we're just going to take some extra wire here. We want plenty of room to work with depending on where we actually mount the electrical connector. We're just going to tie this wire up here, just like so. Again, giving ourselves plenty of excess to work with. Once we have that secured to our safety chain tab here, we're going to take our remaining wire. We're going to route this back to the vehicles, taillights. We're going to do that now. And then we'll show you the route we took. As you can see here, we just have it tied to the safety chain loop for now until we can mount our electrical connector.And what I did is I come here under the frame rail in between our base plate brackets here, I use the included wireless with the kit to protect it during this exposed area here. Let me see here. I have a couple zip ties up top, attaching it to the frame, just to hold it in place. And if we come around on the outside here, there's going to be a hole in the frame, which we routed the wires through there using a pull wire techniques, which essentially just entails sticking airline tubing through the frame tire wiring to one end and then pulling it through. Here's where we came out of the frame. And the reason we went in the frame here for this large section here is because there's a lot of moving components with our front suspension. We also have to worry about our catalytic converter and a lot of our exhaust components.Those are two things we want to avoid when we're routing our wire, being the suspension and the exhaust. Then once we come out of the hole here, I have it zip tied to the brake lines atop the frame rail and I'm going to be using these brake lines, zip tying it every six to 12 inches or so to secure it for the majority of the way, routing it to the rear of the taillights. We can see it again up here, again, tied into our brake lines. We just use some zip ties to secure it. And then we went over the gas tank here, which it's really hard to see. We had to come on the other side there. And again, just did a couple of zip ties onto the brake lines on the top of the frame rail to secure it.And then you should be able to see the bonded 4 wire just above the rear axle here. And again, you have a couple more zip ties. And right now we just have it draped over the rear shock mount. And we're going to leave that there until we pull the taillights out and get the rest of our wires in place. The next thing we need to do is we need to access the wires behind our taillights. In order to do that, we obviously have to lower our tailgate here and we actually have to pull the taillights out away from the vehicle.In order to do that, we're going to have two of these Torx Bit fasteners here, which are holding the tail light onto the body of the vehicle. We need to go ahead and take a T15 Torx Bit and remove both of those. Once those are out, we should be able to pull the taillight out away from the vehicle. We want to make sure that we pull straight back so we don't damage any of the alignment tabs. Sometimes with newer vehicles, the tail light housings are pretty well stuck in there so it just takes a little bit of patience. Just like so.When you come around to the backside of the taillight here. The first thing we're going to have to do is we're going to have to get the wiring harness out of the clips, which hold it to the taillight assembly. We can just do our best to work those free, just like that. Then we have one connector here. There's going to be a red safety tab that we need to pull back away to release the lock. Sometimes the locks are a little hard to get off by your hand. So we're just going to go ahead and take a flat blade screwdriver and press it out, just like that. Then the center section here is going to be a tab we need to depress. We should be able to pull the connector out, just like that. We actually have one more connection at the top here. We just need to rotate that to release it.Now we can set our taillights aside. Now for this next part, we need to have a friend jump in the vehicle. We need to have them activate the turn signals. Since we're on the driver's side, here, we need the left turn signal to be activated. Once I have that, we can go ahead and test the pins we have here. As you see there, we've now identified left turn signal. We're going to go ahead and mark the wire color for that, which is going to be our green wire. And since these signals are combined on this truck, both our stop and our left turn signal are going to be on this green wire. Now we want to go ahead and activate the taillights and test the pin again, to see which .It looks like that's going to be our brown wire. And now we're just going to do the same process here on the other side of the vehicle so we can identify the stop, turn and taillight circuits. Now that we've identified the correct circuits in the corresponding wire colors, the next thing we do is we need to free up some of this wire here. So we're going to have to remove this wire loom in this electrical tape here, just like that. We went ahead and just undid the tape around that little T section there and pulled the wire out so we have more lead. We've already identified the correct circuits. We have the green wire here, which is for the stop and turn. And then we have the brown wire here, which is for our taillights. What we need to do is get about the halfway point on each of these, and then we're going to cut them in half, just like that.Now we want to take our green wire here, just going to strip a little bit of the jacket off, about a quarter inch or so is all we need. Just twist that together. We're going to take one of our diodes here. We're going to remove one of the spade connectors. Then we're going to splice it on to this green wire here, just like that. I like to give it a little tug to make sure it's secure. Now, we're going to take the other end of our green wire, which runs up to the vehicle's fuse box. Again, I'm going to strip about a quarter inch of the jacket off. We're going to again, take another spade terminal here and attach that to this wire lead. Now if you remember earlier, we ran our bonded 4-pole wire to the rear of the vehicle. And now it's going to be time to pull this up behind our taillight housing here.What we're going to do is, we're going to take our airline tubing, we're just going to run it through this little hole that we have in between the bumper and the vehicle behind our taillight housing. And hopefully we can get that to come out at the bottom of the vehicle. We can tie our bonded 4-pole wire to this, and then we can pull it through. However, before we do that, we're actually going to separate this green wire, because that's going to be ran over to the passenger side. I'm just going to make a little slit here to separate it. I'm just going to pull this wire free from the rest of our bonded 4 wires here. Once that's done, we can go ahead and tie the rest to our airline tubing here and pull it through.Now that we have our wires here behind the taillight housing, for starters, we're not going to need nearly this much, so we're just going to go ahead and cut free some of the excess now. Now what we're going to do is, we're going to separate out this yellow wire here. We're going to strip some of the jacket back, like we've been doing. We're going to take the final spade connector on our diode here and attach that to this wire. Now we can take our diode here and plug one end from the connector into the outside of the diode. We're going to do one end on the inside that's coming from the front of the vehicle. And then the one from our bonded 4 pole, is going to go on the other one, just like that. Just a tip here, in order to prevent the spades from coming off the diode here, we're going to take a set of pliers. We're just going to clamp down a little bit to try and hold them more in place.Furthermore, we're actually going to come back with some silicone sealant. We're going to try to place them in between the two diodes on the outside so we don't have any issues with corrosion. Just a couple of dabs is all we need. Now I'm going to go ahead and do the same thing we did for this, with our brown wire. However, we're going to hold off on this last connection here. That goes to the bonded 4 pole.As you can see here, we have our two connections made on our diode here. However, we still have one more spade that we need to connect, but I wanted to hold off on this because we're actually going to need some extra primary wire, because we need to run a jumper lead from this driver's side over to the passenger side. We're going to need about 10, I'd say 10 or so foot of some primary wire, a 16 gauge would probably do just fine. We're actually going to splice these together, like so. Place our yellow spade terminal, which is a little bit bigger. It allows us to get both those wires together and then we can connect it to the other side of our diode here. Right now we already have some wire here just going to fish it down through that hole there, pull the rest through and then make our connections.Once we have those connections made, what we're going to do is we're going to take these adhesive backing off our diodes here. We're actually just going to stick them together, just like that. And then in order to secure them to the vehicle, we're going to zip tie them to our existing wiring harness. Now we have our final white wire here, which is for our ground, and they give us a ring terminal as well as a self tapping screw to attach this here, just need this pick a bare metal spot here. We're just going to use a spot here, some panel on the back of the taillight housing, just like that. Now as we said, just going to take a zip tie and tie it to the existing wiring harness so we don't have to worry about the diodes moving around too much and coming loose.Once this is done, we can go ahead and reinstall our taillight assembly. We can complete this process on the other side of the vehicle. Now we can go ahead and mount our six pole electrical connector here to the front of the vehicle. And we take a look on the two sides here. We already have this panel removed, but we're going to have these removable panels just outside our tow bar arms here. And since we don't have a lot of other locations for mounting, we're going to go ahead and mount our electrical connector inside one of these cutouts here with our included bracket, either like this, we can mount it to the side here. If we wanted to, or we could actually mount it upside down as well. Whichever method you think looks best. Now we're going to go ahead and show you how to remove that removable panel real quick.If we come inside the bumper here, right in front of our front wheel housing, we're going to see these three bolts here, one on top, one or the bottom, one on the side here. We can take these out with a seven millimeter socket, just like so. And then once we have all three of these remove, the panels should just pop right out. Now we're going to take our electrical mounting bracket here, and we're going to mount it sort of underneath this little curved edge right here. We're going to be doing this on the driver's side of the vehicle. But if you ran your wires to the passenger side, we would obviously just do it over there. We're just going to take a self tapping screw here, just going to attach it to the bottom face of this bumper facia here.It's going to leave it loose now until I get the right angle and we can come back with our other screw and secure it. Now we're going to the angle of our bracket a little bit. We sort of tilted it to the side here to remain even with our tow bar or our base plate arms. Now we'll just go ahead and insert that final self-tapping screw to secure it in place, just like that. Now that we have our mounting bracket secure, we went ahead and routed our bonded 4 wire through the hole in our mounting bracket. Now, as you see here, we have a bunch of excess Slack we need to cut off.I'm just going to take some diagonal cutters here. Just make it cut across. Now we can begin stripping back these wires here. We need to separate them first, being careful not to cut too much into the jacket on each wire. Once we have all the wires separated, we can begin stripping back the jacket of each one here, just going to bend them off to the side to make it a little bit easier to work with, take our wire strippers here. About a quarter to an eighth of an inch is really all we need.Once we have our wire stripped, we're going to go ahead and feed them into our little grommet here. Once this is done, we can go ahead and attach our trailer connector. If we take the back of our trailer connector here, we see we have these five different pins. We're going to need to take a Phillips head screwdriver and just loosen the screws. Don't take them all the way out. Because then we run the risk of losing them. The top one TM, which is for our taillights. We're going to loosen that screw, see the one beside it is the ground. You're going to need that one as well. Then we should have two more the right turn and the left turn, which are signified by RT and LT. We have our green is going to go in our right turn. Simply insert it in there like so, and tighten down our screw.You have yellow, which is going to be for left turn. You have TM, which is for our running light circuit or taillight circuit. Then white finally will be for ground. Before we slide the boot back over our trailer connector pins here, you want to go ahead and just seal up all the wires so we don't have any issues with corrosion. We're just using a clear silicone here. If you have some gasket maker at home that would probably work as well. Now we're going to slide our boot back over in the back of our trailer connector here, then we can mount it to our bracket using the included hardware.You could finish things up. We're going to take some dielectric grease here just to apply them to the pins inside the connector here, just like that. Now we can go ahead and hook up to our motorhome using the umbilical cord that comes with our kit. Then we can test our lighting functions to make sure everything's working. We're first going to test our taillights, test our left turn signal, our brake lights, and then our right turn signal. And that's going to do it today for our look at the Roadmaster Diode Wiring Kit here for our 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500.

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