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Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Braking System Installation - 2012 Jeep Liberty

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How to Install the Roadmaster Even Brake Portable Braking System on a 2012 Jeep Liberty

Speaker 1: Today on our 2012 Jeep Liberty, we'll be reviewing and installing the Roadmaster Even Brake braking system, part number: RM-9400. And we'll be using the Roadmaster Brake-Lite Relay Kit for towed vehicles, part number: RM-88400.This is a portable, easy to adjust braking system that uses an inertia sensor in the towed vehicle to detect deceleration. Like many other modern brake systems, this one is a proportional braking system that ensures that your towed vehicle's brakes are applied with an intensity that matches the slowing or stopping action of your towing setup. The result is improved control, better stopping and less wear on the brakes of both your vehicle and your RV.This system has an easier install than some of your others that require many electrical connections and tapping into your vehicle's systems. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, then this kit will be a good one for you.The included monitor mounts in your RV and keeps you updated on the status of the Even Brake. This wireless system relies on the ICX transmitter, which is mounted in the towed car to send signals to the monitor.

Just plug the monitor into a 12 volt outlet in your RV for power.Now we can setup our wireless receiver to work with our Even Brake unit on up to four different vehicles. So, that's great, we don't have to worry about setting this up every single time, we simply plug it into our 12 volt outlet and we're ready to go.Okay, when everything's operating normally, we'll have a green LED display over here to the right which will tell us that everything's good to go. When our brakes are being applied, we will have a red LED off here to the top left and it will show 'braking' on the screen. After one successful braking, we can press the button on the left and we can see what the current battery voltage is in our Liberty. That way, we can see how the battery's doing, make sure it's not getting run-down and we'll be able to have successful braking in the vehicle.Now in the unlikely event that our Liberty becomes disconnected from our motor home, the breakaway switch will be pulled and the brakes will be applied inside the Liberty, bringing the vehicle to a stop.Inside the motor home we'll get an audible alert with our flashing LED lights and a message on the LCD display that says 'Tow breakaway, emergency stop', this will help indicate you that you've had a disconnect issue or the breakaway pen was accidentally pulled, so you can bring your vehicles to a safe stop.Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed.

We'll find ourselves underneath the dash on the drivers' side of our vehicle. Now, underneath our dash we find this fabric panel that sits above where our feet rest while we're driving, we'll need to remove this. We have two plastic rivets. The way these work, use a flathead screwdriver, twist out the center section and come behind it and then pull out the entire piece.Now if we look right above our brake pedal we'll see a bundle of wires going to a switch. This is our brake pedal switch, this is what we need to test to find out where the cold side is.

And what that means is there's no power going through it until we step on the brake pedal. Now, we're gonna test this with a multimeter and we're gonna do what's called a 'back-probe technique' so we don't damage the wires. We have our multimeter grounded to a bolt on the vehicle's body, and if we just insert this pin into the back of the connector, we're not piercing the wire at all and it's not damaging any of the connection points.So we have it back-probed into one of our wires right now. This is the white wire with a green stripe. Don't confuse this with the green wire with the white stripe, this one has more white than it does green.

You can test to make sure that we are only getting power to this wire.Okay, with our hand or foot off the brake pedal, we can see we're getting 0 volts. When I press down on the brake pedal, we get 12 volts, and that is exactly what we're looking for. That is the cold side of our Brake-Lite switch, so it's the white wire with the green stripe, that is the wire that we're gonna be making our connections with.Okay, now to make it easier to work with, we'll unhook our Brake-Lite switch. This red lock tab which is right by my finger on the other side of this connector right here, we slide that back, there's a black tab right here above my thumb. We press this down and pull back on the connector to unplug it. So here's the white wire with the green stripe, cut it right in the middle and strip back some insulation from both wires.Now here's what our wiring harness looks like. I went ahead and replaced all of our butt connectors with heat-shrink butt connectors that we have available on our website, because they are better than the factory ones and I feel like they will give us a better connection. We have these available on our website. If you would like to purchase them, these are for 14 to 16-gauge wires. Our green wire will go to our vehicle's Brake-Lite switch on the wire for the cold side that is closest to the actual switch itself. The spade 00:05:48 connector will go to our transmitter, the black wire will go to the cold side wire that's furthest from the switch, the red wire will go to a fuse underneath the hood of our vehicle that only has power when the ignition is on, and white wires are ground.Now, for our application we will not be using this blue wire, so we can simply remove it. Okay, so the butt connector here off our green wire, this will go to the side of our wire closest to the switch that we cut. The black wire goes to the side furthest from the switch. Now we'll use a heat gun to shrink down our butt connectors. The reason you use a heat gun versus a lighter is because it provides you with a source of indirect heat versus direct heat and it won't damage the connector.Now plug our Brake-Lite switch back in, inaudible 00:06:57 secure the lock tab. Okay, we find ourselves underneath the hood now on the driver side of the vehicle, right next to our master cylinder and brake booster. Now, if your vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, you will not have this grommet, you would have to drill a hole elsewhere or pass through a different existing grommet. But right here we have a grommet which we can remove to pass our wires through to the engine bay. You just grab it, pull it out, and behind that you'll find a piece of foam, just poke your finger through and make the hole a little bit wider.Here we went ahead and put our red wire through with our fuse holder through the hole in the firewall, throughout it accordingly. It's right next to our fusebox now, and this is where we need to make our connection. So, we'll lift up on these two tabs. Tilt the fusebox forward, pull up and the lid will pop off.With our fusebox open, there's a fuse right here kind of offset from the rest, closest to our driver side, number M7, which is for our power outlet. It's exactly what we're looking for, this is a fuse that just has power when the ignition is on. So, we'll take a pair of needle-nose pliers or a fuse puller, whatever you have, remove the fuse.Okay, now we'll take our fuse tap and our fuse, combine the two by sticking one leg of the fuse through the slot in the tap, and we'll reinstall the fuse. Now we'll take our wire that we ran through the firewall, insert it onto the leg of the tap. Now we'll take a pair of side cutters here and make a notch so our wire has a place to pass through cleanly and doesn't get pinched. We'll drape it down and we can reinstall the cover.Okay, now our white wire with the ring terminal, that's our ground. We're just gonna ground this to the vehicle's sheet metal with the provided self-tapping screw, right in this area here behind our brake pedal will be fine. Now our relay we can plug into our socket. It's keyed, so it only goes in one way, just line it up appropriately and push it into place. There you go.First thing you want to do in order to get this installed is get your breakaway switch mounted. We already did that when we had our fascia and we installed our baseplate. The breakaway switch is right here, we just attached it to our baseplate using a short bracket which we have available on our website as part number: 18140.Now the wire for our breakaway switch goes behind our fascia, goes up, goes behind our headlight, there's a large hole behind the headlight where it passes up, goes around the side of our battery and on through the hole we mentioned earlier.Okay, here's our breakaway switch cable. This is our wireless transmitter. We'll plug the breakaway switch cable into the wireless transmitter. Now the spade terminal on the green wire off of our Brake-Lite relay will plug onto this spade terminal here, number two on our wireless transmitter.Now the white and red wires that come off our wireless transmitter, these will go through the same grommet hole in the firewall that we've been using for our breakaway switch and our Brake-Lite relay. Pull these wires the rest of the way through, now open up our fusebox again. If we use fuse number M11, which is this one right here, this one has constant power as well. Still a 10 amp fuse, which is what we're looking for. We can take that fuse out. Now the 10 amp fuse I removed we'll put into our fuse tap on the bottom spot here, this will protect the original circuit.Put another 10 amp fuse that comes with our kit on the top one, this will protect our wireless transmitter. We'll take our red wire that we brought through the firewall, strip off some more insulation, stick that inside of our fuse tap. Okay, now we'll wrap up this butt connector with some electrical tape, just to help protect it, even though it's enclosed in a sealed fusebox. And we'll install the fuse tap into the spot where the fuse was. And in that gap that we made earlier for our Brake-Lite relay, and pass it out through there. Okay, we'll reinstall the fusebox lid now.Okay, our white wire, let's strip off some insulation, giving us a little bit more wire exposed. We'll take our blue ring terminal that comes with the kit, slide it over the wire and we'll crimp it.Now we have a couple options with this, we can attach it directly to our vehicle's sheet metal, or we can just go directly with the negative terminal on our battery, which is what I'm going to do. So, remove the 10 millimeter nut on our negative terminal, place the terminal over that, reinstall the nut, tighten it back down.Okay, now we need to find a place to mount our wireless transmitter. Right here in the side of our kick panel will be a perfect spot. So we'll just hold it in place and use some of the screws that come with the kit.Okay, here's what the wireless transmitter looks like mounted. We also took the time to secure up any of our loose wires and the Brake-Lite relay itself with a couple zip ties to keep it away from our feet as we're driving. We also took the liberty to secure up the slack in our breakaway cable, and then we put our wires, the red wires and the white wire and some wire loom that passed through our grommet. Now we'll put a slit in our grommet, cut it out like that, and then we'll reinstall our grommet in its original position.Okay, we went ahead and took some sealant; Which we have available on our website; and went around the hole that we made in the grommet and sealed it up, so we don't have to worry about any moisture getting inside the vehicle.Now we'll reinstall the under-dash panel. Seat all the way back, we can slide in position now. We have it all the way open right now, we'll slide it over our brake pedal and it snaps in place. With that clamped on, we'll slide our seat forward, now we'll verify that we have no air in our system by pressing the air release button. Now we'll plug our cord into our wireless transmitter. Now we'll plug this into our 12 volt outlet in our vehicle. Okay, with it plugged in, we'll now press the test button. We have a green light next to the test button, that means we're good to go inside the vehicle. We can hop into the RV now.We plug into our 12 volt outlet with our wireless receiver. Now to make sure that our receiver is paired with our Even Brake unit, we will hold down the dim button in the middle for six seconds. Now it's in learning mode. It inaudible 00:15:42 say learning ICX, which is your wireless transmitter number one, hit OK, then we'll go back to the Even Brake unit inside the vehicle and press the test button. After a few moments it'll say 'test is good, system is ready', and we'll have a green light over to the right and we know we're ready to tow.And that'll do it for our look at the Roadmaster Even Brake braking system, part number: RM-9400 on our 2012 Jeep Liberty.

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