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Roadmaster EZ4 Base Plate Kit Installation - 2014 Ford Focus

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How to Install the Roadmaster EZ4 Base Plate Kit on a 2014 Ford Focus


Speaker 1: Roadmaster EZ4 base plate kit with removable arms, part number RM-524430-4.So here's what our base plate looks like when it's fully installed. It is going to allow us to flat tow our Focus down the road behind our motor home safely and securely. I do want to mention that the breakaway switch and the wiring, they're not included. But they do have a bracket so that you can mount your breakaway switch as well as any wiring that you may have. The nice thing about the EZ4 base plate is if we pull on this ring right here, we can rotate the arm and pull it out and it's going to be a lot less noticeable when we're not flat towing our vehicle.Now also right on the outside, we're going to hae this loop here so we can attach our safety chains, which is going to make it a lot easier than having to try to worry about finding a spot and they're not going to interfere with connecting the tow bar itself. Our base plate's also going to have a bracket right here.

These two prongs are going to allow us to mount any kind of electrical connectors, so then when we're flat towing our Focus down the road, we'll be able to send those taillight signals from our motor home to our Focus.Our base plate is going to be made of a steel construction with a nice black powder coat finish, which is going to blend in nicely at the bottom of the grill here. But it's also going to prevent it from rusting overtime. Now this is a custom installation kit, which means it's going to be made specifically for your Focus. Which is going to minimize the amount of cutting and drilling that we're going to have to do. But as you can see we are going to have to do a little bit of trimming to get the arms to come out of the bumper here.

And all the hardware is included necessary to get it installed. So now that we've gone over some of the features and seen what it looks like, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, we're going to open up the hood. And in the very center, we're going to have this plastic panel and we're going to have four plastic push pins holding it in place. Now you're just going to take a trim panel tool. There's going to be a small notch on each side of that push pin.

You're going to go underneath the notch and lift it up and that's going to release this center section of the push pin. Then once you have that lifted up, you can go ahead and go underneath the outer section and pull the rest of the clip out. Then we'll repeat that for the other three remaining clips.Now on either side of that plastic panel towards the front on the outside edge, we're going to have two T30 Torx bolts holding it in place. I'm going to grab a T30 Torx bit to remove them. We'll go ahead and remove the other two on the other side as well.

Now if we move to the side of the wheel well towards the very front. We come right where the fender meets the bumper area, we're going to have a push pin that's going to be holding them together. That's going to be the same method we used to take the other ones off. We're going to pry out that outer section to release the tension and then we can get the rest of the clip out. And we're going to have one on each side.Now if we move just below those push pins, at the very bottom and also kind of recessed in the middle section here. We're going to have another T30 Torx bolt holding it in place. So again we're going to grab that T30 Torx bit and pull them out. And we'll remove the other two on the other side as well.Now underneath the vehicle we're going to have a few more fasteners holding the bottom of the fascia in place. If we come to the front of the wheel well area, we're going to have another few Torx bolts holding it in place. Then if we move towards the center, we're not going to need to take out the one holding the felt panel in place, but just the ones that are on the plastic. So if we move in farther, we're going to have a few more. There's going to be a total of seven T30 Torx bits. So we'll grab that T30 Torx bit again and pull them out.Now if we move to the outer edge of that plastic fascia, we're going to have three plastic push pins along each edge that we're going to have to remove. It's going to be the same way we did the other ones. You're going to pry out the center, releasing the tension and we can pull the rest of the clip out. We can go ahead and remove the other three from the other side as well.If we come to the back of our headlights towards the edge here, we're going to have another one of those T30 Torx bolts holding it in place and we're going to need to pull it out. We'll do that for both sides. So with both bolts holding the headlight removed, we're going to go ahead and remove the headlight. Just take a little bit of wiggling back and forth. Now if we come to the tab here at the back of our connector. I'm going to take a flathead screwdriver and you just kind of want to gently kind of pry away, which will take some of that tension off. It'll release the connector from the headlight. Now you're going to want to set your headlight aside, so it won't get damaged. You're going to want to disconnect the other one too and make sure you set them aside, so they're nice and safe.Now where our hood release is here, if we look just behind the yellow. Our hood cables going to be in a small notch that's in this plastic area. You can take a flathead screwdriver or a trim panel tool whatever you have and you're going to want to pry that out of there, just like that. And then we're going to take our cable and rotate it to the side to where that notch is. And we're going to pull it out so that our cables free and not on the latch itself anymore.Now on each side right underneath where our headlights were, we're going to have a tab that's right around this plastic. And you're going to want to come up and kind of pull or pry upwards on it. See it kind of release there. That's just to make sure we're not going to break those tabs when we go to pull our fascia off. So make sure you go ahead and do that on both sides.Now we're going to come to where our fascia meets our fender. You're going to reach in to the inside and you're going to want to gently pull away and it's going to release the locking tabs. You're going to want to work your way towards the center but not too much. You just want to release the side and then go to the other side unless you have an extra set of hands with you. So they can help make sure the fascia doesn't fall.So once you have all the clips released, you're going to gently start pulling away. Now you may have some electrical connectors, like we do right here. So these are just held on by clips. So you can just pull them off, just a little push pin fastener. Make sure you disconnect all the electrical connectors, so they don't get damaged when you start pulling your fascia away.We're going to have to trim this piece off here. So we're going to go ahead and cut the top and the bottom off of the center support. And then along the sides, we're going to want to go back pretty far and we're going to be cutting out a notch in this section right here. I'm going to be using a Dremel tool and if you don't have one, you can use a pair or tin snips, cutters or pretty much just whatever you have since this is just plastic. Just want to mention you want to be careful of these baffles back here, we're not going to be cutting those.Here on the passenger side, if we find the washer bottle, the top where the cap is and we come down a little bit. We'll see that the neck is actually a two piece design. So you're going to want to grab the neck and you're going to want to pull straight up and out. We're going to set this aside for now.Now we're going to have two bolts holding our washer tank in plac.e one towards the front of the vehicle, and then one right behind the tank right by the fender well. Now we're going to need a 10 millimeter socket to remove those bolts and go ahead and pull them out.Now the washer bottle has a small notch up here, towards the bottom where our headlight was that it's held in. So if you grab the bottle and you're going to want to slide it straight back. It'll release it out of those notch there and we can maneuver it out of the way and we're going to want to secure the bottle so that it's away from the frame here. Just want to be mindful of all the wires and lines that are coming off of it.Forward mounting bolt for our washer tank, we're going to take a pair of pliers and we're actually going to bend it 180 degrees. Just going to want to grab a hold of it and twist. It may take a little bit of force to do it, but our goal so that that's completely straight down. Just like that.Now right in the same vicinity of where we were, we're going to have one 10 millimeter bolt right behind that tab, that's holding our horns to our frame. So we can grab that 10 millimeter socket again and we're going to remove that bolt.Right here at the front of our frame area, we're going to have to drill a one and a 1/2 inch hole. Before we do though, I'm going to take a center punch. I'm going to get pretty center where my frame is. I'm going to put an indentation, that way when I start drilling I have a nice even spot to drill and my bit won't skip around. And we'll do that for both sides. I'm going to come back with a quarter inch drill bit, I'm going to drill straight through the frame. And that's going to be my pilot hole for my hole saw. We'll do that for the other side as well.I'm going to come back with an inch and a half hole saw. And I'm going to drill a hole right here at the end of the frame. Now this is just going to give us access so we can get our hardware in place. Now with side cut out, we started on the other one. But I'll go ahead and show you how to do it, if you don't have a hole saw. So again we're going to take that Dremel tool and we're just going to cut out a square. Doesn't need to be a circle, it's just so that we can get access into the inside of the frame. Once you have that section cut out, come back with a magnet and pull the piece that you cut out of the frame. And it's never a good idea to leave exposed metal on your car especially on the frame. So I'm going to come back with a little bit of spray paint and I'm just going to go over the edges that have the bare metal, hopefully protecting it from any kind of rust or corrosion build up. And we'll do this for both sides.Before we get ready to put our brackets in place, I do want to mention you will need to pick up some red Loctite. And if you need some, you can pick some up on our website using part number LT37420. And you're just going to put a small amount on each one of the bolts in our kit just going down the threads.Now on the driver's side of the frame, we're going to have this wire loom coming down. There's going to be a plastic clip holding it in the side of the frame. You're going to want to grab a trim panel toll or a flathead screwdriver, come underneath the wire loom and you're just going to pop that clip out of the frame. I'm just going to kind of push it to the side for now so it's out of the way. And we're going to notice that we have three holes in our frame.We're going to take our driver's side bracket and it's also going to have three holes in the side tab here. And the way you're going to know it's the driver's side is that that three holed tab is going to be acing towards the back of the vehicle like it is. And then if you move towards the center, you're going to have this weld spacer towards the center and then the two holes with that small tab is going to be towards the front. So we're going to go around our wiring harness here and we're going to lift it up. It should lineup with the three holes loosely in the frame. And temporarily we're going to take one of the 3/8 bolts in our kit and we're going to put them in there, so the bracket will support itself.We're going to put one bolt in each end of the bracket and leave the center hole open. So then we're going to take another one of our 3/8 bolts and a 3/8 lock washer and then we're going to have some handle nuts. Now we're going to feed the handle nut in through the hole in the frame that we drilled. And we are going to bend the handle as needed to get it in to line up correctly. And then we're going to come back and take our bolt. And once we have it lined up, we're going to thread it into place.Now the easiest way to do this is probably going to be to put the bolt in and you can actually look through the hole that we drilled in the frame to see where the handle nut is. Then we can loosely tighten that bolt onto the handle nut. Now we're going to repeat that for the other two bolts. So we'll have to pull them out and put some lock washers on them and then reinstall them with the handle nut inside.Once you have all three bolts secure on the side, you're going to want to leave the handles as long as they are and just kind of bend them out of the way for now. Then we can take the larger handle nut, which is going to be a half inch. And we're going to need to bend this so that it kind of reaches the bottom of the frame because if you look inside the frame, there's going to be a hole on the bottom that lines up on the bracket underneath. Then we're going to take a half inch bolt followed by a half inch lock washer, and come from the under side of the frame and go through the hole coming up, and we're going to secure it to the handle nut just like we did with the other ones on the side. Going to take a little bit of patience and just bending the handle nut to where we need it to go. But if you can get it started, it should be able to bend that handle nut to the position we need it.And again you're going to want to leave that handle nut as long as it is, maybe just bend it out of the way for now until we get it nice and tight. So now that we have all four bolts on our brackets along the edge and the one underneath, we're going to go and repeat that for the other side.You're going to want to grab your main receiver brace at this point. And the tabs with the holes in them, you're going to want to have on the top side. So we know it's right side up. And we're going to come in behind each bracket on each side, going underneath the main bumper core. And then once you have it in position, we're going to take a bolt just to support it. And we're going to go through the side bracket and through the main receiver brace as well. And we'll put one on each side just so it can hold itself up.So when we go to secure it down, you're going to want to take that half inch bolt and a half inch lock washer and coming from the outside going towards the back of the vehicle. We're going to go through our side bracket and our main receiver brace and then we're going to secure it down on the back side with a half inch nut. Just want to get them hand tight for now. And then we can come back and snug everything up.Now in order to mount our horn, we're actually going to be mounting it right here in this hole on the back of the radiator support there. So we're going to need to bend this tab here so it's nice and flat. So that we can mount it up there because the way it's sitting right now, we're not going to be able to. And this plasti clip here, we can go ahead and remove that so we don't have to worry about damaging the wires. Just get a trim panel tool and just like we did before, just come underneath it and pry it off. Then we can come to the horn connector itself and we can disconnect it, making it a little bit easier to work with it and bend that tab out. And once you bend it a little bit, you can go ahead and see and check for clearance to make sure it's going to clear the main receiver brace and then we can get a bolt through and we can mount it up.So it looks like we're going to have to bend that tab in and we should have enough room to mount it like that or even turn it so that we can mount it like this and just flatten this piece out. So once you have that tab bent on the bracket, we're going to take it and we're going to kind of wrap it around the radiator support like that. So that the two holes will line up. Then we're going to take the quarter inch bolt and lock nut that they provide in our kit. And we're going to go through the radiator support. And since it's really close to the radiator hose on the inside, we're going to come from the inside going out. But we're going to secure it with that lock nut.So I'm going to hold the bolt on the back with a 7/16 wrench while I tighten up the nut on the front with a 7/16 socket. We can take our horn connector and plug it back in. We can start working on tightening up all our bolts. For the 3/8 bolts on the side of the frame here, I'm going to be using a 9/16 socket to tighten them up. Now to get this forward one, it may be necessary to use a swivel or an extension of some kind to get in there so that you can gain access to the head of the bolt. And we'll repeat that for the other side as well.For the half inch bolts, I'm going to come back using a 3/4 inch socket and wrench. I'm going to hold the back side of the nut while I tighten up the bolt. And we'll repeat that for any remaining bolts. Now using that same 3/4 inch wrench and socket, we're going to come back and we're going to torque all of our half inch hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. And we'll repeat that with all of our half inch hardware.Now we're going to come back and we're going to torque down all of our 3/8 hardware to the specified amount in the instructions. And we'll repeat that for all of our hardware that's remaining.Now we're going to need to trim the access handles off of our handle nuts here. The easiest way to do is if you take a pair of cutters and want to get real close to the edge with the frame here and you start bending it back and forth while you're squeezing on the cutters. And it'll break it off. We're going to do that for all the remaining handles that we have left.So we can get our washer bottle loosely put back in place. So we're just going to come from the back, get it all lined up. Remember there's a little notch in there where it's going to have to slide into. When we go to slide this in place, you're going to notice that we did lose that front mounting hole. But it is going to line up with our brace. So we can go ahead and get the rear bolt in place to make sure it's nice and secure and it's not going to move. We'll just get that in there hand tight for now.Now the way we're going to attach our washer bottle to our brace here is we're going to have one more 3/8 bolt, a flat washer, and a nut. Now coming from the inside, we're going to take that 3/8 bolt and come towards the outside. Now it's a little bit of a tight fit. But if you just reach in there, you should be able to get that bolt lined up with the hole and pass it through. Once you have the bolt through, we're going to follow that up with that flat washer and then finally come back and put that 3/8 nut on. And that'll make sure that our washer bottle's going to be nice and secure. You want to get a 9/16 socket and wrench and going to get the wrench on the back side of the bolt, so I can hold it down while I tighten up the nut on the outside. And then we can tighten up that 10 millimeter bolt back here.Feed the washer nozzle back down. Give it kind of a twist to get it lined up, get it into position. You just want to double check that everything lines up, you're not interfering with any kind of hoses or anything else.Before we put our fascia back in place, we are going to have to do some trimming. Now I already went ahead and marked out the area of where we're going to trim. And if we come to the lower three sections of the outer piece on the fascia here where the grill area is. The lower three sections, if we start with the top third one, we're going to measure right from that edge three inches over. And then the bottom one, we're going to measure five inches over. And the very, very bottom one, we're just going to have like a two inch section that we're going to cut out towards the outside of that five inch cut. I'm going to come back with a Dremel tool and I'm going to cut this out. I just suggest that you take your time and if you need to use several different tools, go ahead. Just want to make this as nice and clean as you can.Once we have the section cut out like this, we can come back and we can clean up all these edges. Make sure it looks all nice and clean, won't have all that excess plastic there. And with this one cut, we can go ahead and cut the other side. Just keep in mind it is going to be a mirror image. So you want to go make sure you're going towards the outside. After you have your cut outs made on both sides, you're going to want to double check, maybe even test fit the fascia loosely up against the car to make sure that the draw bars are going to be able to fit through and you're going to have enough room.With our fascia off, now would be the time to go ahead and run your wiring or your breakaway switch if you have a supplemental braking system or for your taillight wiring for you flat tow setup. So we're going to loosely line up our fascia and gently start putting it back in place. Now since we are going to have some things to go around. Just want to pay attention of how you're putting everything back and take your time, make sure everything lines up properly. Just going to want to work your way around, making sure that everything's lined up. And then once you do get it lined up and push it back into position, make sure you get that locking tab up front. And kind of lift on the edge and push it back on the corners.Double check that it's not interfering with anything. Might have to just push it a little bit like that to get it lined up. Just go around making sure everything's secure. So you're going to want to take your hood cable with the fascia already installed. And we're going to get the notch, the rather large section and we're going to put it in there. Then we can feed the cable down and we're going to wrap it around. You can take the black plastic section and we're going to push it back into place.Then we're ready to reinstall our headlights. You just want to grab the connector, make sure that they line up properly. Push them til they lock in. You're just going to want to get them sitting back into the same position as we had them when we took them out. Then take a little bit of wiggling and going back and forth. Then we can secure them down with the hardware. Then we'll reinstall the other one as well.And then we can go ahead and replace those two bolts on either side of the fascia support. Then the four plastic fasteners up top. Then we can replace all the fasteners and reinstall that lower panel. Then we can replace the plastic fasteners on the bottom of the fascia as well. Finally you can replace the fasteners inside the wheel well. And that'll finish up your look at the Roadmaster EZ4 base plate kit with removable arms, part number RM-524430-4 on our 2014 Ford Focus.


Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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