bing tracking image

Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2015 Jeep Cherokee

content loading

Customers compare RM-154 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit on a 2015 Jeep Cherokee


Today on this 2015 Jeep Cherokee, we're going to show you part number RN-154. This is the Roadmaster Universal High-Powered Diode Wiring Kit. We'll go ahead and cover the parts that come in the kit. You get the 4 high-powered diodes with the terminals. These are crimp terminals, and also some butt connectors for your wires. This is a patch cord to go between your RV and your towed vehicle. This is the wire harness that gets installed on the vehicle.

It's about 30', so there's plenty of length. Some zip ties to help secure your wires and a ring terminal for ground and a little length of loom material to help protect the wires when it goes around sharp corners. Let's go ahead and show you how it installs. First off, we need to go ahead and remove the 2 taillights. We'll use a T30 Torx bit to remove them. It works to pop this loose here and then pull straight back.

Here's the wire harness right here going into the taillight. We'll go ahead and push in this tab right here and disconnect it. Our diodes are going to attach inline with these wires right here, so we'll go ahead and pull back the protective covering as well. I want you to make a cut through the tape first and then pull it out of the way. Our driver side is down. We'll do the same thing on the passenger side.

Next, we'll go ahead and install our ground screw. We'll use that for testing as well as a ground for our wire harness. I'm using a self-tapping screw that uses 1/4" hex-head nut driver. Now, the kit doesn't come with that, so that will be extra. What we're going to do is test the wires finding one function at a time and then add our diodes to those wires.

To think of it this way, when you add power to the vehicle from an RV, you always want to use a diode. I found if we take off our taillight, the turn signals do not work. We have to have it plugged in to locate our turn signal. To test it, we use a very small light tester with a needle point, and we just slide it in next to the wire going into the socket. Our turn signal and our brake light are combined. We found that we need to use the yellow wire with the white stripe. We'll go ahead and pull out our tester. Since we know which wire it is, we'll go ahead and disconnect our light. Let's cut our wire in half, strip the wires back, twist them together to make them a little tighter, and also fold it over a little bit so our terminals will get a little bit more to grip. These are pretty fine wires. Let's go ahead and add our terminal ends and crimp them down into place. With there terminals in place, we can add our first diode. There will be input from the factory wire harness in the vehicle and also there's an input from the power from the RV when it's towed. We'll go ahead and plug those 2 together first. It doesn't matter which tab you use. Then, we'll go ahead and . The single tab always goes out towards the taillight. At this point, we'll go ahead and take our taillight, put it back on, and double check the function to make sure we get a complete circuit going through. It looks like everything is working. Next, we'll go ahead and work with our running light circuit. We found out that's the white with the gray stripe. The same thing applies to our next diode, single tab to our running light taillight and an input from our vehicle. Now, we'll go ahead and check it one more time. It looks like our running light circuit is good. We have a diode for our running light. We also have our diode for our turn signal. Our vehicle's wiring harness is combined, so it's also the brake signal and the turn signal with this one diode. Now, let's go ahead and work with our wire harness. Let's go ahead and cut it loose, and also, we only need one 4-pole end. I'm going to cut off one end here. It doesn't matter which end you cut off, they're both the same. We're going to take our 4-pole wire end, and we're going to drop down between our outside panel and our bodywork. We'll just let that fall to the ground for now. Let's get our tester wire out of the way, and we'll go ahead and work with our white wire and just go ahead and install our ground. We'll add the provided ring terminal to it and attach it. Strip back our white wire, that will be our ground wire. Attach the ring terminal to our ground. Now, we'll go ahead and make our connections to our wires to our diodes. We'll work on the passenger or the right-hand side. We won't need our yellow wire. The rest of this wire will actually go to our driver side. We'll cut that off and out of the way. Strip the wire back. Do each wire. It might be a good idea to mark these diodes which one does what, but we'll go ahead and connect up to our running light circuit using our brown wire. Our right turn signal will go over to our diode and go into our right turn and brake. At this point, all of our connections are made for this side of the vehicle. Let's go ahead and use a zip tie and secure our diodes together. Then, we'll go ahead and re-install our taillight for good. Now, we'll go ahead and take our wire harness and route it over to our driver side and pull it up to that taillight. To help us do that, we're going to use a pull wire, which in this case is an old piece of airline tubing but this also could be any piece of wire that you can use and route down towards the bottom. Now, we're route our wire across but we want to make sure we stay away from the exhaust. I routed mine over the top of the bumper bracket to keep it up completely out of the way. Then, we'll take the rest of it and tuck it behind this plastic panel right here. Take a nice loop of it and push it all the way through to the other side and back over our bumper support or bumper bracket. Now, let's go ahead and go down the wire a little bit. Just go ahead and attach it to our pull wire and pull it straight up. I think it would be a good idea to go ahead and pull our wire up from the passenger side, pull it tight, and we'll go ahead and zip tie it to our wire harness here. That will help keep it up and out of the way and safe. Let's leave that alone for now. Now, we'll go ahead and add our diodes to this side. We found out that on the left-hand side, our running light is also white with a yellow stripe. One more time, we'll go ahead and strip our wires back and add our diodes. One tab out to our taillight, and then, one is going to be an input. We'll look for our left turn signal and brake, and that looks like white with a green stripe. Let's go ahead and add our diode. Let's go ahead and pull some of our wire harness and go ahead and split the wires. Let's go ahead and take this wire harness and connect it to our turn signal. We'll working with the yellow one. Now, of course, the end that we tied off went to the other side, so we can cut it short. This end right here will go to our diode. That will go for our diode for our turn signal. Now, we'll go ahead and work with our running lights wire. This is going to be a little bit different because we're going to use a large yellow terminal for this. This is going to work as a junction so that our running light circuit will be divided between the diode on this side as well as on the other side. All we've got to do is really just cut in half. We'll strip the wires back and add the yellow terminal in. That will go into our last tab on our diode for the running light circuit. At this point, we can go ahead and re-install our taillight on the driver side. Once again, we'll go ahead and use a zip tie to help keep things together. Let's go ahead and put back our taillight. Next, we'll go ahead and take our wire and run it towards the front of the vehicle, eventually to the front by the baseplate. Everybody is going to run their wire different, but this is how we did it. We ran ours down through here, ran over this factory wire harness and zip tied to it, and since there's a lot of different edges around through here, we used some loom material to help protect the wire. Then, we doubled up on a couple of zip ties and ran our wire harness over the sub-frame for the rear suspension. We come out by the gas tank here and behind the shield we just routed it. We zip tied it to this bracket. Then, we just basically let our shield here hold up our wire for us. I got some of the fasteners removed so you can see that our wire is just going to stay with the brake lines right here. We just used a 10mm socket to remove these fasteners. Continue running it behind it and we're going to come out on this edge right here with maybe some more loom material, and we used our pull wire once again to pull it towards the top of the engine compartment. Let's go ahead and pull up our wire. Then, we'll go ahead and route that over to the side. We'll continue using the pull wire to help route our 4-pole wire. I think we'll go ahead and route ours out through the bottom of the breakaway switch. We'll go ahead and use some of the last of our loom material to help hide some of the color of our wires, and then, we'll go ahead and zip tie and take up the rest of our slack. It's a good idea to leave some extra in there in case there's an upgrade to a different type of connector. Let's take a moment and make sure we take up all of our slack in our wires from the bottom to the top and zip tie it to some factory wire harness here. We'll bundle up these wires here. Some supplemental braking systems need access to these wires, so it's a good idea to go ahead and run the bundle up on top to give you easier access in the future. Now, let's go ahead and apply power to it. Typically, this would be behind your RV. We'll go ahead and check out the running light circuit. We can see our lights on both sides, left turn, right turn signal, and then our brake signal. With everything working, that will finish it for the Roadmaster Universal High-Powered Diode Wiring Kit, part number RN-154, on our 2015 Jeep Cherokee. .


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Rick A
Test Fit:
Rick A
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Mike H
Video Edited:
Mike H
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.