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Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

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How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit on a 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 3500


Today on our 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD we'll be installing the Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit, part number RM-154. We'll begin our installation by taking our wire that we're going to run from the front of the vehicle to the back. Get it out of the package here, and we'll take the four pole flat trailer ends that we're not going to be using and turn those off on both ends. Next we'll take one end of our wire. Feed it through the bracket we're going to have our wiring mount to on the front of our vehicle. Pull it out from underneath the bumper, and we'll just pull it on through until all of it's basically pulled through that bracket. Once we have it pulled through, have a little bit exposed, we'll take a zip tie here and zip tie it to our bracket so that we have something to work with when we mount our connector.

That's not going anywhere. Now we can start routing our wire to the back of the vehicle. We started to route our cable from the bumper through a spot in the frame where it goes over this little water shield skid plate. Then it comes around this body mount here. Then we secured it to a wiring harness on top of the frame rail here with a zip tie, so we'll cut the excess off right now. We followed the wiring harness up over the pocket for the control arm here in the front.

Again, we kept following it back over the control alarm, making sure we avoided any parts that would get hot or move. We went down behind the control arm and over it, behind this fender liner here, and we followed a wiring harness and the brake lines on back, securing it to those with zip ties along the way. Kept following the wiring harness back underneath the cab of the truck. Then, once we got to where the bed starts on our truck, we went around this bed mount here, securing it with some brake lines, and we followed it back on this side of the frame next to the gas tank. One on top of the frame, one here to this bed mount. There's a hole right there where we slid the wire through just to help secure it and hold it up out of the way of the travel of our leaf springs.

We followed it back on top of the frame rail over the tire here. Then we secured it to a wiring harness again, another zip tie there. Brought it up over our spare tire, secured it to the wiring harness to the side of the spare tire. We brought it over our crossmember in the back behind the spare tire and secured with a wiring harness here in front of our trailer hitch. Now we need to lower our tailgate to remove our taillight assemblies. Using a Torx 15 socket, we can remove our screws that hold our taillight in.

We'll pull it out towards us, releasing the clip that held it in place. Then we'll just set it to the side for the time being, like so. Gently, so it doesn't get damaged. Now we'll do the same to the other side. This middle bolt here is the reverse light. One of these two is the turn signal, taillight, and brake light. We'll go ahead and take all three bolts out for the time being and we'll set our assembly down in the truck bed so it doesn't get damaged. That way, we'll have room to work over our wires. We'll do the same thing on the other side. Now we'll turn our headlights on in our vehicle to figure out which bolt's our taillight. For our purpose we're just going to use the top bolt there, since it's a dual film and bulb for our taillight and our turn signal and brake light functions on our harness. We'll remove some of this electrical tape they have on there and peel back the insulation a little bit so we can gain access to our wire. Now we need to figure out which wire is our taillight signal because that provides the lower wattage for the dimmer filament. Using our test light, we've determined that the brown wire's our taillight signal and the green wire will be our signal for our turn signals and brake lights. We'll start with our taillight wire first. Before we make any of our connections, we need to get our wire that we brought from the front of the vehicle up into our taillight area. We'll just reach up underneath and pull through the access hole right there, just like that. Now we'll just cut off this excess wire loom here so we have some room to work with. We'll trim that off, take our wire strippers here, strip off 1/4" on either end. We'll take one of our blue spade connectors that we removed from our diode packs, stick it on the wire, and we'll crimp it into place just like so. Make sure it's nice and tight. We'll do the same thing on the other end of the wire. Now we can take one of our diode packs here. The outside will go to the bolt side, and we'll plug the other wire into one of the inputs on it just like that. Now we can work on separating all of our wires here. We'll take a pair of side cutters here and very carefully work on separating the wires. Pull them back. Since we're working on our taillight signal, that's our brown wire, so we'll measure off just about enough to get to the diode pack right here and we'll cut off the excess. We'll set that aside. Using an extra piece of brown wire that we had laying around, we'll make a jumper wire that'll go from the taillight end of our towed vehicle wiring harness to the other taillight over there. For now, we'll strip off about 1/4" or so of the harness that goes to the vehicle and our jumper wire and we'll twist them together like so. Now, using the yellow connector that came on one of our diode packs, we'll stick it over our wires and we'll crimp it together. Make sure our wires are nice and tight there. We'll put this on the input side of our diode pack. Now we'll take the jumper wire that we made and we'll drop it down the same hole we fed our wires up. We'll feed it across the other side here later. Now we can make our connection for our turn signal and brake light, which is off this green wire here. We will cut our wire in the middle; strip back about a 1/4" or so. Take one of our blue spade connectors here, stick it on the wire, crimp it into position. Do the same on the other end of the wire. Grab our diode pack. Again, the bolt side of the wire, it's the output. The other end of the wire will go to one of the inputs. Since we're treating our vehicle as a trailer now, we'll grab the yellow wire, which is the one for the left turn signal and the left brake light. Trim off some of our excess here. Take about a 1/4" off the insulation again. Now that we got that stripped off, take one of our blue spade connectors, crimp it on to the wire, and we'll connect it to the other input side of our diode pack. Now we can stick our diode packs here together. Just take off some of the provided sticky tape and we'll stick them on like that. Now we can wrap them both together with electrical tape to help ensure that they're going to stay stuck together. Now we'll take our white wire, which is our ground wire, and measure off about how much you're going to need and cut off the excess. Shave off about 1/4" of the insulation here. We'll attach a ring terminal. Crimp it into place like so. We'll feed it up behind our taillight bucket housing here. Take a self-tapping screw on a 1/4" nut driver, and we'll attach it to a grounding point right here in the body. Now we have a good ground point right there. Now we'll take our green wire, which is our right side turn signal and brake light, and we'll drop it down through our access hole here. We'll feed that over to the passenger side at the same time we feed over our taillight wire. Since we're done on our driver side, we can reinstall our bulbs into our taillight housing and push it back into its position on the vehicle, reinstalling the screws to secure it. Perfect. Taillight housing's now secure. Our green wire that we dropped down on the passenger side turn signal and brake light is not going to be long enough to reach our lights over on the passenger side, so we're going to extend it with another piece of green wire we had laying around. Just going to use a butt connector after I strip back the wire. Crimp it into position. Take our other piece of green wire that we're using; strip off the end of it. Insert it into our butt connector, and we'll crimp that into place as well. Make sure you have a solid connection here, which we do. Then we'll wrap it in electrical tape just to make sure no moisture, dirt, or debris gets inside of it. Since we dropped our wire down from the taillight assembly, we went ahead and routed it over to our passenger side and I secured it in a couple of locations above our factory trailer hitch right here along the wiring harness. I'll go ahead and show you that right now. I went through this pocket in the frame right here, back over here to the wiring harness, and I zip tied it. I'll snip that up out of the way now. I secured it again, the other end of the wiring harness, on the other end of the spare tire right here. I'll trim that back. Went over the frame and I secured it from the back of our bumper right here with a zip tie, so now we can trim that back and we'll pull it straight up into our vehicle again. Now we'll peel back our electrical tape that covers the loom on our passenger side bulb here. Remove the electrical tape here at the end just so we have some more slack in our wires. We'll cut off the excess of our loom here. Now we'll hook up our test light to a good ground point. Right here on this bolt for the tailgate cable will be perfect. We'll turn on our headlights again and find out which wire is our taillight signal. We've established that the brown wire is the taillight wire and our green wire is our turn signal and will be our brake wire as well, just like it was on the other side. You always want to make sure of that before you actually cut any wires, to make sure you're using the right ones. We'll cut off our taillight wire here and we'll strip back about 1/4" of either end of our insulation on it. Twist our wires together here just so they go into our spade terminal nice and smoothly. Take one of our spade terminals, and we'll crimp it on to our wire. Doing the same for the other end. Take our diode pack. Again, the outside of the diode goes towards the bulb. Push it on there, then put the vehicle wiring harness in on one of the input sides like so. Now we'll take our brown wire for our towed vehicle wiring harness, measure off about how much we're going to need. Cut off the excess. Strip back about 1/4". Twist the wire together. Install a blue spade terminal on it. Crimp it into position and install it on the other end of the input side of the diode pack just like so. Now we'll take our green wire, we'll cut it in the middle too, install our spade terminals. Take our final diode pack. Output side goes towards the bulb. We'll take the green wire and put it on one of the input sides. Take our green wire that we brought over, find out how much we're going to need, cut off the excess, take our final spade terminal, slide it over the wire, crimp it into position, install it on our diode pack. All the wiring connections are now complete. We'll stick them together. Now we'll wrap it all together in electrical tape. We'll grab our taillight assembly and reinstall our bulbs into it, starting with the top one. Let's twist it until it clicks into place. Grab our reverse light here, do the same thing, and then our bottom taillight bulb. Now we'll reinstall our taillight assembly. Push our guide pins in. Push until it snaps in, and reinstall our two Torx screws on the other side. Okay, perfect. Taillights are now reinstalled, and that completes our installation on the back end of the vehicle. To ease our installation, we're going to be using a Blue Ox 6-Pole Round Pin Trailer Wiring Socket for the front of our Silverado here. It's part number BX294-0902 on our website. All right, now we'll test all of our functions, starting with our taillights. As you can see, they're working. Now we do our left turn signal and brake light, and we'll do our right turn signal and brake light. All of our towed vehicle lighting functions are working properly, and we'll go double check and make sure our factory functions work as well. Turn our headlights on. You see we have working taillights. Activate the left turn signal. Do the right one. Now we'll step on the brake pedal to activate our brakes. As you can see, all of our lights are functioning just like normal. That completes our installation of the Roadmaster Universal Hy-Powered Diode Wiring Kit, part number RM-154, on our 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD.


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