bing tracking image

Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2015 Chevrolet Equinox

content loading

Customers compare RM-154 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit on a 2015 Chevrolet Equinox


Today on our 2015 Chevrolet Equinox we're going to be installing the Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power diode wiring kit. This is part number RM-154. For our diode wiring kit, we're going to begin our installation by routing this right up to the front where we're going to make our connection with the back of our RV. We're doing this with the fascia off the car at this point just because it's going to make routing so much easier to get in. Keep in mind, when you're doing a diode kit like this, you have to run your wires, or any wires for that matter, any air lines, whatever the case is, get it done while this is off. It's really going to save you some time.

I'm just going to kind of route it down here, around our boxes where I can see it, pull it right on down here, then we'll go in and secure it off nice and snug so we won't have any issues as we're heading down the road once our fascia's installed. Let's go ahead and get our fascia put back on the car. To begin our installation we want to choose a point here on the front of our vehicle where our wiring will be accessible, easy to get to. We've gone with just beside our license plate bracket here. That way we'll easily be able to plug it in once we get the tow bar and everything installed. If you're going to be adding this on supplementally to an existing braking system, there's a good area if you just push downward here to where you'll be able to run that directly through and then you just head back to the tail lights. We're going to go up top here, make our ground connection and then we'll start running it towards the rear of the vehicle.

Our braking system requires connections to these wires so we're going to add ourselves in a little bit of a loop, come on over there to where we plan on installing it, then I'm going to just throw a zip tie on it just to hold it there for us so we don't lose that existing wiring. Then we're going to ground out since . Right here we've got a great ground location, we don't have to drill any holes or anything, we're going to ground our wire out right there. We'll just take the end off of our plug. If you need a new 4-pole plug, now's the time to get it.

You're going to be cutting this off and you're not going to be using it at the rear of the vehicle so if you need one, give yourself 8 or 12 inches there to where you have plenty to work with. If not, you can just snip it off. I'm going to pull the white wire off. Let's take care of getting our ground set. We've got our wires separated all the way down here and quite a bit that we're going to be taking off. We'll save that in case we need it in the rear of the vehicle.

You can see we've got a small boat load of white wire left over here. Set that aside in case we need it later in the install. Strip off the end. Add the provided ring terminal on there. Go around that with a little bit of electrical tape to just give this kind of a vapor barrier, like a little moisture barrier there. Now we can put it on our stud. That takes care of the grounding of the system. Now we've got a piece of air line tubing here. We're going to connect our brown, yellow and green wires into that just using a little bit of tape. We're going to use this to guide our wires towards the rear, almost like a fish wire or a pull cable, whatever you want to call it. You can use air line tubing if you've got it, probably not the most common thing in somebody's garage, but also a stiff coat hanger. You can use just the wire, just makes it easier if you have something else to help you. Then we'll just pass this down. Just want to get it down underneath the car where we can grab it and then run it back there towards our tail lights. Let's go down there and find it. Now we just reach up in there with another coat hanger or something and just pull it down here where we want it, and then we just start pulling our wire on through. As we route this back towards the rear of the vehicle, we want to avoid any sharp edges or any heat sources that might cause any kind of damage to it. We're going to just continue running it towards the back. There's some fuel lines, brake lines here, we can use those factory clips to keep our wire up out of the way so it's not hanging down. Come up here, bring it out that side. I'm going to go right up beside the fuel tank here. There's a little clip there that holds the fuel vent line in place and we'll just use that to give us some support, and then I'm going to go right up over the filler hose and the vent lines that we have up there, then we'll come right over top of our exhaust hanger, and then we'll poke our red wire right up here in the back side and allow it to rest there. Then we'll go up and take out the tail lights and see if we can't pull it on through. We're just going to pop the 2 caps here that cover up our mounting location. Take that one out. Take that one out. We just back out the bolt holding it in. That's a 10 mm. That's the socket size you'll need. Just kind of pull outward on our light. We'll see the back side. Just the one main harness coming in is the one we'll want to separate so press down on the tab and just wiggle it out. Of course, you're going to want to set this aside in a safe area until we're ready to put it back in. Head right over here to the passenger side and do the same thing, and separate that clip. To find out which wires we need to use here, we'll have a buddy in the car turn on the headlights for us and we'll go through our four and see which one of them has power. We'll use a test light. Just want to find a good ground to get that connected to, and then we'll probe our wires. The brown wire is the only one we're getting a signal off of so now we'll keep it connected while we have him turn off the lights, and back on, and off. Perfect. We know our brown wire is going to be for our running light circuit. Now let's find our blinker circuit. We're getting a flash there. Now step on the brake, that gives us our solid, now off the brake, now blinker on, blinker off and brake. All right, looking great. We'll have him depress the brake while we check the other wires. From what we can see here, our green and white wire, that's going to be for our turning signal and for our brake signal. The brown wire is for our tail light signal. Now we'll come over here to the drivers side and run the same test. I'm going to test the brown wire first for our running lights since that's what it was on the other side. Now turn them off, on, off. All right, that's giving us a fine signal. Now let's go ahead and have him turn on the blinker. It's the black and yellow. It's in the same position, just a different color as what the other one was. Now turn that blinker off, now apply the brakes, now brakes off. All right, perfect. We have the same situation, brown on this side for the tail lights, and then our yellow and black is going to be for the blinker and brake. If we look down in the hole here between the body and our bumper cover, we'll see our wire here. Let's go ahead and pull this on up. Be sure we get all of our slack out there. That looks good. Set that aside. We're going to separate out our yellow wire. That one we're going to tuck right back down and that will eventually head right over to the driver side. Let's take care of our brown wire here first. That'll be connected into the brown wire. Move that off to give us a little bit of room to work there. Then we'll just clip our brown wire off there. Strip both ends back. I'm going to strip these off pretty long. What I like to do with these thinner wires is just fold them in half there. That's going to give our spade connectors a lot better chance to hold onto them. Bring up our brown wire from the motor home now. Strip that off. We're also going to bring in that extra piece of white wire that we had from the front and we're going to strip that off as well. For the running light circuit here on the passenger side, that's the one that's going to use the yellow spade connector, so we'll pull that off. That's going to get connected to our brown wire and then the jumper wire which is going to go from our connection that we make here at the passenger side, down underneath the vehicle, and come out on our driver side. So we'll slide that on. Crimp that down. Then our other 2 spade connectors from our diode are going to go onto our factory wires. Now we've got 2 insides. We're going to take the end that would head towards the light from our factory connector. We're going to put that in. Then we're also going to put the inside that comes from our motor home right beside it there, just like that. Then the out is going to go to our bulb. What this is allows is whether we're sending a signal to the car from the motor home itself or whether it's the cars signal, they're both going to come out one side here illuminating our light for us. The green wire, that gets connected to our green and white wire. Do the same thing here. Cut that off. Cut the green and white. Here we're going to just use one of the standard 3 blue spade diodes. Then just like before, clip the factory side in, put our RV side in, and then those will both go out to our vehicle. I think that's where we're going to be mounting them, but let's check and make sure we've got enough room. We may have to mount them down here just to make the connection on the back of the light. As for the extra white wire that we have, we're going to poke it right down there where we sent that yellow wire. I'm going to grab our tail light and just kind of roughly fit it. It looks like that position right over here is going to be fine. Let's take some rubbing alcohol and really clean that area off well we anticipate sticking them on to. This has the double-stick tape on there, foam tape. We'll plug our factory connection back into the tail light housing. You want to hear it click. Give it a push-pull, and then we can slide it right back into its little push fasteners, and then re-secure it with our two screws. Let's not forget about our caps. Before you get under the car, it's a good idea to take whatever you used to pull your cables up before and just kind of push it down there and it'll connect down there and pull it right on up. Tuck it right in behind there to hold it so we don't pull it all the way through. Now here you'll see our yellow and white wire coming down. If you remember, our white wire represents our brown wire or our running light wire, and then this is going to be our stop and our blinker. We need to get both of these over to our passenger side. We'll tape both ends together, place one of them into our red tube, coat hanger, again, whatever you've got to use should work fine. Then we'll just wrap that up. We've got a nice path to take all the way over to the other side. We can go right into the frame rail and just run it all the way over. You may have to poke it back in in a few spots. Then we'll have it come back out right here. Our yellow wire is just a little bit short of making it all the way up there where our connection will be. In the hardware kit they supply you with a couple butt connectors. We're just going to strip the end of the yellow wire off, add on a butt connector, and then since we're still going to have about 6 feet of white wire left over . Just a piece of wire, same wire could be brown, yellow, green, red, it doesn't matter, as long as we get a little bit extra to add on there and go up to the top with. Clip the end of that off, connect that into the butt connector, and then we'll use a little pull line that we had added or we dropped down from the top before we came down. We'll use that to pull these both up behind the tail light. Now what we're going to do, we're going to take the one that's the yellow to the white, we're going to wrap up our butt connector for sure just to give us a little bit of a moisture barrier, and then we'll follow it all the way down to the end, where we're going to mark it. Put a couple little marks on there so we know this is the one we're looking for. That's going to be our brown. Just like before, connect them onto the pull wire, we'll just tape it up and pull it through. Once we pull this up through, I'll identify which one of the wires is for our brake and turn, that's going to be the one we added the blue line to. We'll set that aside. We'll trim the white wire that we're going to use for just the running light circuit. On our factory pigtail here, we'll take our tape off. The brown wire is going to be for our running light side, so you cut that just like we did on our passenger side. Then we'll connect it onto the end of our . Now we can take the plain white wire that we had that simulates the brown wire, plug that into the input side of the diode, our brown wire in from the car, and then our wire that's going to go out and operate our light. Now we can take the plain white wire that we had that simulates our brown wire . We've got our yellow and black wire coming out of the vehicle, to that we're going to connect in the white wire that had the blue stripe that we added to indicate our stop or our turn, and then that's going to come right out to the stop/turn factory wire which will take all the power to our light regardless of where it's coming from. All right. With everything put back together and hooked up, let's test it out and make sure it works. We'll hook the lights up to the front of the car either to our test board like we've got here today or to our tow vehicle and let's go through and check them. We'll start by turning on the tail lights, both should illuminate. We turn that off. We can turn on our left brake and then our right brake, then our right blinker and our left blinker. With everything functioning as it should, our wiring is taken care of. That's going to complete today's installation of the Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power diode wiring kit. This is part number RM-154 on our 2015 Chevrolet Equinox.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Rick A
Test Fit:
Rick A
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Mike H
Video Edited:
Mike H
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.