bing tracking image

Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit Installation - 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

content loading

Customers compare RM-154 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring Kit on a 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Today on our 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited we're going to be showing you how to install the Roadmaster universal high powered diode wiring kit, this is part number RM-154. To begin our installation we're going remove the passenger side and driver side tail light housings here, just a couple of phillips screws will hold those in. Take out the two closest to the middle here, we ought to be able to wiggle that and bring it right out. We'll separate our connector here by pressing in on the tab and then sliding it out. Set that aside for re-installation later, we'll do the same thing for the driver side. Now it's time to test our wires out here and figure out exactly what's what in the harness.

Let's pull that tape off. That will give us a good look at the five wires going in this side and we'll run a few easy tests on it. What we'll do is just find a suitable grounding point there then bring out our wires. What I've done is I've turned on the running lights on the vehicle so we're going to look for one of these wires that's giving us a constant signal. No signal coming from any of them, that tells me we need a better ground. We'll just go right down here on the exhaust hanger and see if that doesn't give us a better source.

We'll do our test again. No that one's a flashing signal, that's not what we're looking for. That's a constant signal on the orange wire. Check our other ones and see if we have any constants. It's again going to be the turn and then nothing on that one.

The orange wire gave us the constant signal, let's go ahead and turn those lights off and see if it's now gives us a non signal. No signal so we'll write that down, with the white with the orange is going to be for our tail lights. Now let's turn the blinker on. It looks like the green is going to be for our blinker. Green will be for the left blinker, orange is going to be for the tail lights here on the driver side. Now we'll check the passenger side.

Looks like we're getting a constant signal there. Flashing signal there and no signal on the grey wire. What we've got is our purple wire, that is going to be our running lights, the yellow that's going to be for the right side blinker so we'll write those down as well. Now we're going to go ahead and position the front of our 4-pole right here into our base plate. To do that I'm going to pull out these two pushpin fasteners, you pull that middle out you can pull that other out. I'm going to do both of them, it's likely you could just do one of them. As you can see that's going to allow that to drop down a little bit. We'll pull the rubber cap off the end and we'll just push our 4-pole, pop it right out over top there, bring it right down then we'll push it right into the holder there on the front. Put our cap back on, that's going to give it a nice clean look and we'll just put our pushpin fasteners back in. Now let's start getting this to the back of the truck. As we do this we're going to stay away from any major sources of heat. We want to stay away from any moving parts or anything that might pinch the wire. I'm going to use this little area right here then we'll go back, we want to go over this, that's our steering linkage or one of the main crossbeams, go back over our axle. Now you can see where our factory wire loom runs right in through here and of course they're not going to want their factory wiring getting any heat or getting pinched so let's use that. Back over the top of the rail there, this is going to duck us back in now that we're past where that cad is. So far that harness is doing a real good job for us. Should have a nice open channel, we kind of pass it up to our hand on the outside of the frame. We're going to run it on the inside of the frame but you're going to have your body mounts, you've got one here to go behind. That's going to run right along with that harness and if we hook enough in there we should be able to feel it with our other hand behind the gas tank. Now we'll go right up over top of the frame rail. Now we're going to push the tabs in on this small panel on the underside, we'll be able to pull that down now, what we'll do is just push it back in from the top once we get up there. We'll take the end of it, tuck enough of it up in there so we can reach in and grab it. Before I pull all my slack out, I'm going to take the opportunity right here and anchor my wire off. Now we'll be able to reach down and pull through all of our excess there. You can see we've got a bunch leftover which is great because we're actually going to be cutting this here and then running it right over to the driver side as well. Now what we'll do is just take the 4-pole off the end, if you need one on your trailer cut it back just a little bit so you have a little wire to work with or if you need an extra one around the house. Just going to trim this off there and then that will actually allow us to start separating our wires. What we're going to do is we're going to keep the white one over on this side and we're going to keep the green one over on this side. We're going to keep part of the brown one over on this side so it's a good idea just to get them kind of separated. We'll leave the yellow and brown together. They've, all four of them got a clear wrap. See that clear wrap that's around them You're just separating that is all we're doing. Put that right up here, there's plenty of room in there so we'll be able to trim these off pretty liberally and then we can stick our excess wire in there so we won't have to worry about it. Trim our white and our green. We'll just strip the end off of it, give it a little twist, then we've got a ring terminal that's going to slide right down on there, then we'll crimp it down. As for the white wire, we just added our ring terminal, let's get this grounded out. We'll just get it done, get it out of the way. We've got a steel panel right here that we're going to use a self tapping screw to go right into. Want to check behind it, make sure there aren't any wires or anything like that that we'll have to mess with. Might need a little bit of a longer bit to get up high there. Let that screw get the hole created first then we'll go back up into our hole location, get it nice and secure, just like that. That takes care of our ground wire. Let's now focus on our blinker circuit which we learned earlier on the passenger side is the yellow wire. The white wire here, it's got the yellow on it. Trim that. Now is when we'll bring in our diodes. One of the female spade connectors goes on our input from our factory harness, one goes in the other side, and then one's going to go onto the green end of our Roadmaster harness. I'm just using the diode to hold it, this green wire does not go in that side just so you have a heads up. Nice and secure, wrap them up with just a little bit of tape to give us a vapor barrier. Let's get our first diode put in, we'll have the in from our factory harness, we'll have the in from our plug on the front, our RV wiring, and then we'll have the out that sends that signal whether it's coming from the RV or from the car, out to our plug just like that. The next one we're going to take care of here on the passenger side is going to be our running light circuit. Just like we did before, we'll snip that, strip off both ends, and on each of those we're going to be using a blue one. Then for our brown wire we're going to be using this yellow one and I'll show you why in just a second. This only applies to the first side we pick our running light circuit so keep that in mind, that yellow spade connector is going to go on the first side only. This is when we're also going to separate the brown wire from the yellow wire just a little bit here. What we're going to do is bring that wire over, snip it just like that, now let's twist both of those together, and that's where our yellow butt connector comes in. We're combining two wires so we need that larger, all right not butt connector, but that spade terminal to go on there just like that. When we turn on the running lights in our RV, this is going to bring the power into our diode. The second, we're going to run over to the driver side of the vehicle and by running this over to the driver side we'll hook that brown wire up to operate our running lights over there and our yellow's going to operate our stop and our turn lights once we get over there. Just like we hooked up the first one, the only difference being this one's going to have a yellow spade terminal on it as well. That one in, that one in, and then out is always going out to our plug. We'll get that one in. Our excess yellow and brown, we're going to run that right back down and out of the hole that we came in originally, just like that. Just like before we'll wrap each of these connectors up. Now we're going to mount our diode boxes right over here on this flat piece too. Let's take a little bit of rubbing alcohol, kind of clean that surface off real good. Allow that to evaporate then you'll see on the backside some double sided foam tape. That one on right there, put that one right there. It was like this vehicle was made so we could get this installed without any kind of issues. Works out really nice. Now the panel that we took out of the bottom, I'm going to take just this small little corner off of it, that will give us the room we need to allow that wire to pass through. Once I get the burrs cleaned off of that, should give us a nice little gap there, that we'll be able to pass those wires through. There it is once it's cleaned up. We'll slide that 4-pole and that double wire right into that notch and then we'll use a little bit of silicone around the bottom just to seal that up so we don't have any moisture coming through. Now you can kind of see the wires that are passing through. Make sure it's pulled down in position all the way around there. You can see it's going to come out nice and neat there. We'll just take some black silicone and really pump a bunch all the way around that wire there. We're on the underside of the vehicle so we're not exactly worried about it looking gorgeous. We would like it to be water tight. We can take our yellow and brown wire and I'm going to run it right through the rear bumper channel there. Now I'm going to use a little piece of airline tubing to try to pull it through there. If you've got some stiffer wire, maybe a coat hanger or something like that. You just want to tape that wire off to it real well, then we can pass it through. Tuck it in there, then we're going to guide it across. If you have a little screwdriver or a little pick, you can see it moving through there you just have to get a hold of it and direct it where we want it here. Then we'll come out of the bumper rail there and go right through the same point we did on that driver side, right through those holes in the frame rail. Right here where we're bringing this out of the bumper, I want to anchor this off again to give us a good solid point. I just put a little bend on the end of the zip tie, we'll go right into the little hole that exists there, then we'll just kind of bring it out of that little slot. Gives a nice solid anchor point there, we won't have to worry about it being drawn back. We just snip the end off there. The great thing about the driver's side is that we don't have that plastic cover that's got all that foam on top of it to deal with. Remember we went over that bumper mount, so let's go over that on this side and then there's a little foam pad that actually has a pretty good little slot already cut in the backside for us to go right up through. Let's just poke our fish wire up in there since we've already got it attached, then we'll reach in the opening on this side and make our connections. Let's go ahead and bring our wire on up through, trim off the extra we've got there. Just like we did before, just pull these separate. For our driver side turn signal, we're going to strip off our yellow wire, there's going to be a spade connector put on there. For our left side turn signal here, we want to use our green and white wire, trim it just like we did the other ones and strip both ends. Now we'll just use a zip tie to go right around both of those diodes, we've got that foam tape between them to keep them kind of insulated from one another. Since there's no good connection point to where we can just tape these off to or anything like that, we'll just let the wiring hold it for us. It's going to do a good job, it's going to keep it out there, isolate, keep it from making contact or bumping with anything, it would be an ideal situation. Slide that plug in, you want to hear it click, then give it a push/pull test. Slide that right back into position. All right, let's take care of that driver side. This one's got me tied up a little bit short so I'm going to pop that Christmas tree connector holder there. Pop that off the back and that's going to give us a lot more free room to move this around and get it back in place. Now let's test everything and make sure it's working properly. Let's start off with our tail light signal here. We should have just the standard lights as if we had our headlights on in Jeep. Now we'll go to the right blinker, here we should be getting a flashing signal. Then the right brake, that should be a constant signal. Now for the left side, we're going to try the left blinker, that's going to give us our flashing signal and then our left brake which should be a nice constant signal. Now with everything working properly that's going to complete today's installation of the Roadmaster universal high powered diode wiring kit, part number RM-154 on our 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. .


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Rick A
Test Fit:
Rick A
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Mike H
Video Edited:
Mike H
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.