Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System Installation - 2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser

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How to Install the Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System on a 2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser


Hi there, FJ Cruiser owners. Today on our 2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install. Roadmaster's InvisiBrake supplemental braking system. Now, I do want to start off by saying that Toyota does not recommend that you flat tow your FJ Cruiser, but if you are dead set on installing a flat tow setup, go ahead and stick around, we're going to go over some of the features and then show you how to get it installed. We'll even go through it together so you can have the confidence to do it at home.Now, you might be asking yourself, "Well, why do I even need a braking system on my vehicle" Well, let me give you a few scenarios. One, it is required legally in most states, but another reason is let's put you up on a high mountain top.

You get up to that mountain top, and now you're coming down, and if you don't have a braking system, when you're going down, the weight of your towed vehicle is pushing on the back of your motor home, which is putting more stress on your brakes. If you have a long period of downward descension like this, with all that extra weight pushing on it, your brakes are going to heat up.That heating up is going to cause them to fade, and they're going to work less and less, and it could get to a point where it can make your vehicle unsafe. Adding a braking system will take the existing brakes that's on your vehicle, and apply those to minimize the weight that's at the back of your motor home, making it much easier and natural feeling when going down that hill, giving you more control and safety for your family.When you're going to set up your vehicle to be flat tow, there are five components that you're going to need. You'll need your supplemental braking system, which on our FJ Cruiser here, we've got the InvisiBrake, but some other great options are SMI's Stay-IN-Play DUO, if you have regular hydraulic brakes on your towing vehicle, or if your towing vehicle has air brakes, then I would recommend SMI's Air Force One, which is designed specifically for motor homes that have air brakes. In addition to your braking system, you're going to need your tow bar, which is the connection point between your towed vehicle and your motor home, your base plate, which gives you the connection point on your vehicle, your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection between your vehicle and your towing vehicle, and lastly, you'll need your diode wiring, which provides all the lighting signals from your towing vehicle, to the lights here at the back of your towed vehicle.Since you're after FJ Cruiser cannot be towed with all four wheels on the ground, you will need to also install a drive shaft disconnect, or you'll have to disconnect your drive shaft every time you want to flat tow it.

For further information on things that you'll need to make your FJ Cruiser flat towable, I recommend that you speak with your local Toyota dealer.The InvisiBrake is a permanently installed braking system that's going to be on your vehicle and ready whenever you need to use it. What's nice about this is whenever you're ready to flat tow, you just make your connections between your vehicle and your towing vehicle, and you're ready to hit the road. You don't have to hit any switches or do anything. There is a sensitivity adjustment on it for fine-tuning it, to apply the brakes appropriately for the vehicle that's being towed, so you will have to tweak it for your FJ Cruiser here to make it feel good. And this is going to vary between vehicle to vehicle, because the towing vehicle, your motor home is going to be different, so the adjustments are going to vary.There are portable options out there if you don't want a system permanently installed where you have to put it in each time you're ready to use it.

If you are going to go with one of these systems, I highly recommend Blue Ox's Patriot, as that's one of the easiest portable systems to use. So if you have another vehicle you flat tow in addition to your Cruiser, that could be a good option.The control box we just looked at monitors all the signals from your motor home or whatever's towing your vehicle, and whenever it sees brake signal, it will proportionally apply the brake pedal inside your vehicle. It's able to pull the pedal using a remotely mounted actuating cylinder that is attached to a cable that goes around a pulley, and attaches to the pedal. This is where InvisiBrake really shines. Since their cylinder is remotely mounted, it is a much smaller impact here at your pedal, because you just have the cable attached to it.

The other permanently mounting braking systems install the cylinder that activates it directly to the pedal, so it kind of sticks out and it can be a little bit cumbersome. The InvisiBrake is a little bit more work to get installed because you are hiding these components, but it gives you a nicer overall cleaner look that is more comfortable if you have a limited foot space area.For an additional layer of safety, a breakaway switch does come included with your braking system. In the event of a catastrophic disconnect, the cable that's connected to your breakaway switch will pull the pin, which will apply the brakes inside of your vehicle to help it come to a safe stop. Inside the towing vehicle, a monitor light is installed. This way, when you're driving along flat towing your vehicle, whenever you see this light illuminate, you can be positive that the brakes are being applied in your towed vehicle. You'll see that here as I press the brake on this vehicle, it's going to activate the braking system, apply the brakes in our towed vehicle, and it's going to send a signal up to our monitor light here.We'll begin our installation by installing our major components. The first major components you're going to want to install is your control box, which we have positioned underneath the driver's seat. The control box mounts by making slits in your carpet, and sliding the ears into it. If you follow it on the side of the box, you can see here the slit in the carpet that keeps our module in place. You'll have one of those on each side. So you simply make a cut, and then slide your ears in. To make it a little bit easier, you can bend the ears down, put it in, and then push the module down flat and that'll bend the ear back into the correct position.Next, we'll want to Mount our actuating cylinder, and we've positioned this just right next to our module box underneath the driver's seat. We attached it using a similar method. We made a couple of slits in the carpet, and then used a zip tie to hold the cylinder in place. The other end of our cylinder is then going to route underneath our carpet. There's already a slit that's cut out from the factory for wiring, so we just went right into that factory slit, and then followed the carpet up to our brake pedal, and then followed underneath the carpet up to our brake pedal.You can see the pulley here, which attaches to the other end of the cable coming out of our cylinder. We mounted this on the firewall using the included self-tapping screws. You will have to take a razor knife and cut out a little bit of the carpet, in order for the pulley to mount flush against the firewall. Then if you follow your cable back towards the sheathing coming out of your cylinder, you'll take the small clamp that comes in your kit and use self-tapping screws that also comes with it, to mount this here.When mounting it, you want to make sure you take out most of the slack in the cable. You want just a little bit of slack at the end, just like this. You can see the small ball here at the end has just a little bit of play. And when this is assembled, you want to make sure you've got a straight line from your brake pedal, back to your pulley, and then when you press it in, it keeps a pretty straight path. Your clamp then we'll just go onto your brake pedal using the included bolts and lock nuts, and you'll just cinch that down in that nice straight line, and we can move on to hooking everything up.We'll then attach both of our electrical connectors to our control box. You'll have two 4-pin connectors. One is going to be a square shape, and the other one is going to be a flat four shape. We're going to route those underneath the carpet, up towards our brake pedal as well. From there, we can branch off to start making all those connections. The 4-pin square harness has the green, yellow, brown, and white wires coming out of it.We're going to connect those to our diode wiring, and we're simply going to cut the diode wiring that is previously installed, and we're going to just match those colors up. Brown to brown, yellow to yellow, and green to green. You can see we took the existing diode harness, and we took our new harness and we just routed it into one side of the butt connector, so there's two wires on one side and then just one wire on the other side, and what this is, is this is our diode wiring. That's our diode wiring, and this is our new harness added in. For the white wire, we just want to run that over to ground, and there's a ground stud located right here on the lower left kick panel area.Our other harness with the 4-wire flat connector, we're going to route all of its wiring outside into our engine compartment. Our customer already had a grommet that he had drilled in his firewall and made himself, we used that existing grommet. If you don't want to drill into yours, you can locate another grommet in your vehicle and route it up that way. Here, we have our harness coming out of that grommet, so you can see we've got a red and a black wire, that's going to hook to power and ground, and then you've got the sheathed black wire here, and this goes to your breakaway switch.We routed our wiring here towards our battery. Our black wire, we put a ring terminal on and attached it to the negative post of our battery. For our red wire, we do need to take the fuse harness that comes in our kit. We'll put a ring terminal on one side, and attach that to the positive post on our battery. To get the nuts off on your battery, you use a 12 millimeter socket, and then just reattach that. The other end, we just crimped onto our red wire. We did upgrade from the butt connectors that come in our kit to heat shrink butt connectors, to ensure a long lasting connection. If you need some heat shrink butt connectors, you can pick those up here at etrailer.com.Our sheathed wire that we routed up towards our battery, we're going to keep going past the battery. We've gone underneath our headlights, and then over towards the center. Once you've got it here, you're going to need to find a mounting location for your breakaway switch. This is going to vary depending on the base plate that you've got installed. Some of those do come with mounting locations, some do not. Now, our customer doesn't have a stock bumper or a base plate. He's got an aftermarket bumper that he's using to connect to the back of his vehicle to tow it. We mounted ours here. Now again, if you have a factory bumper, you're going to have to find your own mounting location. We do sell brackets here at etrailer.com that are universal. They are no drill brackets that can clamp, so if you've got a bar running underneath the front, you can clamp it to that and stick it out, or you could just mount it directly to a metal surface on your bumper.The other end of that sheathed harnessed is simply just going to plug into your breakaway switch. Next, we'll hook up our airlines to our control unit. There are two air lines we'll need to connect. One is the smaller, flexible air line that comes in your kit, and it just is a quick connect that goes right here to our cylinder, so you just push that in. Then you cut it to length to the back of your module, and it pushes into the quick connect that looks just like this, but on your module.For our other vacuum hose, that's going to use the quarter inch that comes in your kit. This typically hooks to your vacuum brake booster, but our FJ Cruiser doesn't have one. So you can opt to just leave it disconnected, but if you do, it is going to suck in air into your control box, and all the dirt and debris you see down here in your carpet could potentially get sucked in and cause damage to the control box. So to help prevent our control box from receiving any damage, we installed a filter onto the air line hose, so that way, it can keep those sediments out of here. If you need a filter, you can pick one up here at etrailer.com. We just used some double-sided tape to stick our filter to the side of our control box.From our air filter, we routed the air hose up to the back of our control box here. That's going to go to the barbed fitting on the back of your control box, and you'll have to use the rubber line that comes in your kit as a small adapter to get that air line connected to the barb.Now, to finish our installation, you will need a brake light relay. A brake light relay will disable the brake lights when your vehicle is turned off, so that way, your lights aren't overridden. It's important for your lighting to work properly, and we have to hook up a monitor wire, which will run to the front of our vehicle and send a signal up to our motor home, which will illuminate a light inside. So the brake light relay simply installs in between the cold side of your stoplight switch, which is located here. You'll take the green wire with the yellow stripe, you'll cut that wire. You'll attach the green wire to the connector side of the green and yellow wire, and then you'll connect the black wire to the harness side of the green and yellow wire. We'll then take the red wire that comes off of our relay harness, and we're going to connect that to a fuse that is powered only when the key is in the run position.We're going to be using the accessory fuse, which is a 7.5 Amp fuse, located here in the interior fuse compartment, just to the lower left of your steering wheel. We use the fuse tap that comes with our kit, and we connect the red wire to it. Our white wire from our relay harness just goes to ground, and we attach that to the same ground stud that we attached the ground for our control box to, located in the lower left kick panel.Your monitor wire is going to look like this. You'll have two of these harnesses that comes in your kit, and you'll have one that has a longer length than the other, and then you'll have a third one that is male ends, and that's just a connector that goes between the two that you're going to run. So this harness here, we're going to take the non-bullet connector end, and we're going to attach that to our brake light relay.We attached that to the green wire, using our quick connect splice right here. You simply push the quick connect over your green wire, and then slide the black wire for your monitor in there, and then squeeze it down with a pair of pliers to get it all connected. From there, we're going to run that wire outside up to the front, next to the rest of your electrical connectors, where you'll make your connections. So this is out of your 6-pole connector or your 4-flat, depending on how you're setting up your vehicle for a flat tow. Ours is mounted right here, as our 4-flat that our customer is using is just on the other side of this light.Next, we'll need to install our monitor light in our towing vehicle. Now, our customer's towing it with a truck. More often than not, you're going to be installing this on an RV instead of a truck. You'll mount the bullet end of the longer black wired harness that comes in your kit, to the back of your towing vehicle, and you're going to route the rest of the wire forward to the front, and inside the cab, where we can mount our light. When routing your wiring, you want to make sure you avoid any moving objects, such as your steering and suspension, and anything excessively hot, such as your exhaust.Our customer made a custom bracket to mount his light. Most often, you're just going to mount this into the dash of your motor home. You just want to drill a hole and poke your wire through. Now, we'll take the black wire that we ran inside, and we need to connect that to the red wire that goes to our light. In addition to the red wire that goes to the light, you also want to hook up the red wire that goes to the audio board that comes in your kit. So all three of those wires should be hooked together. The white wire that's coming off of your light will go to ground, as will the white wire coming off of your audio board. So you'll need to run another wire over to ground, any kind of ground inaudible 00:15:38 that you have in there, or you can use a self-tapping screw to run it into some sheet metal, in order to ground your light and audio board.Whenever the brakes are applied inside your towed vehicle, while it's hooked up to your towing vehicle, the indicator light here will illuminate, so you know that the brakes are actually being applied in that towed vehicle. The audio board is supplemental. It works with your towing light to provide an audible signal as well, so you'll hear it. This does not come on every time your brakes apply. There are certain conditions, such as a fault, where the audio board will come into play.And that completes our installation of InvisiBrake's supplemental braking system on your 2010 Toyota FJ Cruiser.


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