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Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System Installation - 2011 Chevrolet HHR

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How to Install the Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System on a 2011 Chevrolet HHR


Today on our 2011 Chevrolet HHR, we're going to take a look at, and show you how to install the Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System. This is part number RM-8700. What we'll do is just simply pull that breakaway switch out of the front, and we want to see the system activate. We want to ensure that it's pulling straight down on our brake pedal, that all of our connection points are holding nice and solid. Then we'll also want to be sure, when we put our breakaway switch back in, that it releases fully. Now we want to begin by getting our box mounted into position. We want to have it so that our adjuster here is readily available.

You like to be able to at least glance at your gauge, which is going to be here on the backside, which we should be able to see from down in this area. That's something we don't use a whole lot. Once it's set up, it's ready to go. I think the convenience factor of having it a little bit further in is going to give us more foot room back here, so I think the convenience factor is going to outweigh the issue of getting in there and seeing to adjust it. We'll get our location marked out here. We're going to use longer self-tapping screws than what are provided with the kit.

That's going to allow us to get through the carpeting and installation in this particular application. We'll slide our box up there, and slide our tab right underneath our bolt. At this point, I'm also going to put a zip tie right underneath like that, so my screw in that front side is actually going to hold it in place there. That's what we're going to use to mount our cylinder to. You can see, nice and secure.

We'll bring our air cylinder in. We want the cable just to go out the drivers side door there. Our air inlets going to be right there, so we want that to be facing up. I'll just pull that down so it's nice and secure. Now we're ready to start thinking about where our cable's going to go, getting our pulley and stuff like that mounted. To get it from under the seat there up towards the front, we're going to just pop off this scuff panel that sits right in here.

Let's get it out of the way. You can see that's going to loosen that up a bit for us to where we can run our wires in and underneath there, run our cable in and out of there. Then we're also going to take this kick panel off the side here. That needs to slide down underneath that hood latch. Then you'll just see, really just held in by these two fasteners right in here, right here and right here. Now we can get our cable tucked in underneath that rear panel here. Now we're just going to follow right up along here, and right up in this area. You've got a nice, metal surface on that back side, we'll be able to connect to. Now we're ready to clean out some room here so we can get everything mounted nice and solid. You can see all this insulation. That's not going to give us a very solid mount. We know that we want our pulley to be somewhere in this area, located right behind our pedal, in line with it's direction of travel, so it be just about level. It moves pretty level you can see. We'll have to make a small notch in our carpet here. Clear that out. You can see this behind it. Go ahead and start taking that out as well. Now we can grab the keeper for our cable. It looks just like that. See the end of our cable here has got a little notch. That's going to fit right over it. That provides the anchor point for the end of our cable, and it's going to allow this to move in and out and operate our brakes. We want to get that attached securely, to gives us an appropriate angle to our pulley, and from our pulley up to our pedal. Now here's a really good look at our configuration here for the pulley system that runs to our pedal. We've got our clamp here. We've got the catch on that clamp face towards the fire wall. You can see it's just a couple of bolts that are going to tighten that down. Now these tabs that stick out past the pedal, we're going to be cutting those off. Basically we want this cable, you can see it's going to run in a straight line from the back of that clamp, directly to the top of that pulley, nice and level and straight right here. When your pedal's depressed, it's when you want to see it the most. Then from there, if you look from our cable, we've got a straight line that runs directly up to that pulley. That's very important. We don't want to be pulling side to side on our pulley. We don't want to be pulling down on our pulley. We need our cable to run straight. Where it comes out of our cable housing here, or our sheathing, we want that to be nice and straight. Experimentation is really want it takes. You can see here it took us a couple of tries to get it right where we wanted it. We want it to be pulling straight of the end there, so we don't have any excess wear here, straight on our pulley, so we don't have to worry about it hopping off and then as low as possible on our brake pedal to keep it nice and secure. We ran that right down on the steel. You don't want to be securing this to carpet or anything like that. What we'll do, is just when we lay our insulation back on, we're going to trim it out. We're going to make sure that we have a nice groove through here, and then that should keep that cable underneath our carpet. Now when properly adjusted, we should be able to pull our cable toward our brake pedal, and just see that ball sticking out of the end. That gives us that little bit of wiggle room to make sure that our braking system is going to operate properly, but not when we don't want it to. Now here you'll see the notch taken out of that insulation material, to give our cable plenty of room. Then once we lay our carpet on top, it looks like should be fine. It don't look like we're going to have any real interference to speak of. Even if our cable does hit our carpet a little bit there, it won't necessarily be a big deal. Now it's time for us to start passing our airline tubing, passing our wiring from outside the car in or inside the car out, whichever way it needs to go. We're going to come right up underneath this pad here. Right up here, we're going to find a grommet. Now there's our major wiring loom that passes through there, and also a cable, and also our hood release cable, so we don't want to do any damage there, but in between those two we've got a pretty soft area in that grommet, so we're going to use that to pass our items through. I'm going to start by taking a knife, we're going to cut just a small slit in that. We want to avoid the wiring in that cable of course, but we want to get a little area cut in there where we can pass through our, what we're going to use as our quarter inch airline tubing that comes in our kit. This is going to have to go through the firewall anyway, might as well put it to use while we've got it. All right, that went through, so let's go out there to the under hood area. We'll pull our airline tubing up here. I want to pull plenty through, that way I've got enough to work with. We need to take our four prong plug, and also our monitor wire for our coach, and get those passed through inside. To get these inside, we'll start with our monitor wire here. I'm just going to wrap them up with some electrical tape, and then just in behind that I'm going to add my four pole plug. Now we want to try to make this as streamlined as possible, so we might have to do a little creative taping, but I'm going to make it so that it'll separate that grommet on it's own and pull through rather than getting stuck there. Kind of something like that, to kind of help it slide through there. Now let's go inside and see if we can't get it to come through. Now we'll pull it down through. I want to be sure not to pull our airline all the way through. We'll get this big wrap of tape off here, and start pulling through our breakaway wire, pull through our monitor wire. You will want to check out underneath the hood, just to make sure it's coming smoothly and it hasn't hung up on anything. We're just going to bring in enough of the four plug to where it'll reach our control box under the seat. Then you'll see our little six pin plug here. This needs to go from inside the vehicle out. We want this bare end to go out, so again, we're just going to use that airline tube, tape it to it, pull it through, and we'll be ready to start making some connections. Now I'm going to grab some zip ties, just start zip tying our wires and our air line off where it comes in. We're going to run this right down the drivers door seal, with the exception of like we talked about, we're not using this monitor wire back there. This is going to go up here. You see if we pull down on this panel here, you can really run it right along there and get it tucked down here. It should be a great spot for it, it'll be out of the way. Just leave these loosely secured for now, that way if we want to pull out any slack or anything like that, we can. Right down along this edge, and then we'll go through that same area we ran our cable earlier. Down under our seat area there. Let's pull them through from the back. Now before we get our wires in the way here, let's take care of these air connections that we need to make. We're going to grab our small eighth inch airline. We want to make sure we've got a really good, clean cut to that. One end of it needs to be slid right into our air cylinder, and if we push that in far enough, we shouldn't be able to pull it back out, so get it connected there. Then we can trim that up. Then the other end needs to slide in into the push to connect fitting on our InvisiBrake control box. It went right from there, right into our air cylinder. Next we'll take care of our quarter inch airline tubing. What we're going to do is trim that off, and you want to make sure that you've got enough left under the hood. We still got about three feet left up underneath the hood. We'll trim that off a little bit shy of where we want to make our connection, and we can slide in one of the smaller pieces of the tubing, slide that right on there. See I've got it in about that far. That should give us a plenty good connection there. Then that gets slid right on that fitting coming out of our box. Next up, we've got the plug from our breakaway switch and our power source. Got that plugged in. Then we've also got our six pin connector, slide in right there. We'll just take up the slack out of our wires here. Now the only wire that we're not really going to be able to trim off is going to be the wires that come from the breakaway switch, so I'm just going to loop these up and zip tie them off here with the rest of them. That should keep them out of the way. Now we'll finish heading up towards the front and finishing off the zip ties we started with our wiring. Then we can get our kick panel and that put back into place over here on the outside. We'll also put our scuff panel back in. Now we looped our towed vehicle's wiring up here because we knew we'd have to make the connection with the InvisiBrake, with the control box on the InvisiBrake, so this lets us make our connections right up here. It'll be easy to get to. Now since it is going to be out underneath the hood and not inside the vehicle, we're going to use heat shrink butt connectors to make all of our connections. Part number is going to be DW05745. Now we're going to leave a little bit of excess here, just in case we ever need to make any changes, or maybe we do something wrong here. We need to go in and fix it, so we want to have a little bit of extra slack, but I don't want so much slack that I'm not going to be able to tuck it away and hide it, so just keep that in mind. I'll give this plenty of slack there. Now we've got three ends. Let's get these peeled apart. It's just a matter of there's a clear wrap around them, so we'll get them separated here. Now we want to strip back all the ends. Now we're ready to start connecting them together. I want to connect my towed vehicle wiring with the InvisiBrake wiring here, just basically using butt connectors to create a splice. Then that's just going to go to the green wire from the front of the vehicle, or from the plug-in from our RV. That's going to take care of our green, our yellow and our brown. We're just doing straight connections, connecting the two wires together. Two yellows to the one, two browns to the one, two greens to the one. Now where our ground comes in, this is going to be just a little bit different. We're going to connect two whites together, just like we normally would. On the other side of our butt connector, we want to grab a little bit of that extra white wire off of that four pole. Twist it together. We're going to use just a little piece of it here to make a jumper for our ground. There's nothing really different in that connection than any of the other three except for we just added a little piece of extra wire coming off of one side. Now we'll our heat gun, mini-torch, or lighter, whatever you've got handy and get these connectors all shrank down. Now we're going to be using our ground stud, located right here. This is going to be a factory ground. Can't get much better than that. To make that connection, we're just going to be using a ring terminal. Now while we're taking care of grounds, the black wire that was connected to the breakaway, it also needs to go to a ground. I'm not going to need all this wire, so I'm going to trim some of it off. Let's separate that black wire from it, let's get a ring terminal put on it and we'll connect it at the same spot here. I like for all my wires to follow the same path. That way it's a little easier to tidy them up. Now we'll use our 13mm socket, just want to take that nut off of our ground stud there. We're going to put our ring terminals on it, and then just re-secure it. Now that should take care of the requirements that we have for our system. We want to have a ground from our wiring in the front. We need to have a ground for the box itself. Then there should be a ground in the rear of the vehicle. Now to take care of the plumbing, we need to get to the vacuum line that's coming off our brake booster. It's right down here to the left of the master cylinder, is the outlet. There's a little hose clamp there. We're going to try to work that down. Just grab it with a pair of pliers, then wiggle it a little bit. You'll see if we pull down on that, we'll be able to separate it, then pull out from the front side here. We're going to have good access to it, and we'll have plenty of room to work on it here. Slide my clamp off for now. We need to cut back the sheathing a little bit here. It's going to allow us to get in there and actually make our connection. You can see we've got a couple of straight sections here. Those are going to be perfect for doing what we need to do. To get that little fitting right there, we want to come closer to the brake booster from that. Make a nice, clean but. We'll slide our check valve in, the red side of it facing towards the engine. There should also be arrows on there that indicate, and we want those arrows to point towards the engine. That on there. Make another cut in the next flat part there. T needs to go in. That goes up on the booster, so we want it pointed about like that. We're going to take the small provided piece of tubing, just like what we used on our control box, get it slid on there. Now we can pass that back through where we got it out of. Let's get that hose clamp put back on there. I'll put that tube right back up on the brake booster. Then we'll want to move our clamp up there and secure it. Now I'm going to run my airline tubing, kind of keep it down and out of the way, and we'll trim off our excess on that. We need to fit it right into that tube that comes off of our T. We'll want to make sure that it goes down in there a good ways, about an inch, inch and a quarter maybe. Looks like that's going to be down out of the way, somewhere safe. Now to begin the installation of our brake light switch which is required in this application for the InvisiBrake, we want to install the switch into its bracket. I'm going to leave it at it's shallowest setting, and then we can adjust with this nut here on the back how far out that's going to stick. As we turn this, it'll allow that switch to come further and further through that bracket, allowing us to fine tune our adjustment. Before we get this all the way up underneath our dashboard, I want to take care of getting it pre-wired here. Let's strip both leads coming out here. Let's a couple of the supplied blue butt connectors and slide those on, get them crimped down. My monitor wire, I'm just going to get a rough figure on how much of that I'm going to need. I want to clip it off and we'll strip it back and attach it to one of those butt connectors. The other side is going to go the length of wire that has the ten amp fuse holder included. We got our three wires taken care of it. Now the bracket is going to mount on the stud. You can see the hole right here that's right up, kind of just above the steering column. See it sticking out right here. Slide our bracket into position on it. Now we'll take our flat washer, slide it on just behind our bracket there, also our lock washer, and then our provided nut. Now we want to use a 13 mm ratchet to start tightening that down a little bit. Tight enough to where it's tough to move, but not so tight that you can't move it. Now here you'll see our switch functioning properly. As we press our pedal, you're going to see that plunger that comes out. As we release the pedal, we want that to fully retract that plunger, push it all the way back into our switch. Ours is sitting right where want it, but we can use these nuts to adjust that if necessary. To power that brake light switch, or to give it the voltage it needs to send our signal up to our LED and our coach, what we're going to do it is use the power wire that comes from our InvisiBrake box. This is a twenty amp power wire. We're using a ten amp fuse, so we're in good shape there. Just need to separate it from that black wire, and to do that you'll either use a utility knife or something small. You just barely want to go right in between them. You don't want to cut into either one of them. Let us spread that out a little bit, trim that wire. Remember we don't have this hooked up to any kind of power as of yet. Something we're going to do as our last step in our InvisiBrake install here. We are going to strip both ends of that back, strip the end of our brake light switch wire like that. Now to make our connections, we're going to be using a butt connector splice technique here. I'm just going to take a larger butt connector and slide that on. I want to make sure it goes over both of my wires there. Then I'll just have to crimp that down, then we can slide that over this side of the wire and that'll make our continuation for us. We just pull on each of our wires to make sure they're good and secure and we use a couple of zip ties to tidy up our excess. Now that fuse holder will be located somewhere we can find it if we need to, but out of the way enough so if we don't, we won't have to see it all the time. Now with everything connected, it's time to make the last step here and get power going to the system. This is the red wire that we separated from the black wire, which is part of that breakaway switch harness. Just strip the end off of it there, and slide our fuse holder down on it. Then we need to make a crimp right here. Nice and easy way to make our connection. Our twenty amp fuse secured to it. We'll set that aside until after we get it connected where we want it. Now we're going to this front stud right here. This is a power block stud. Use a half inch socket there. Loosen that up, and you can see the attached green terminal is going to slide right down over it. Then that flange nut is going to go down and secure it. Tighten it back up there. It's going to open up our fuse holder, place our fuse down and in, and push it together to where we hear that click. Then we can make a little loop, we can secure that off right there. Again, so it'll be out of the way, but easy to get to. Now that's pretty much going to take care of the plumbing and wiring situation here on our vehicle. What we're going to do now is just take some time, a bunch of zip ties and just get everything tidied up, get it all nice and secure to itself. We do want to keep in mind when we're setting our car up for tow mode, that the HHR does require the use of a Fuse Master. We'll be doing a video on that here shortly, so there should be one online for you to look at and know exactly which fuse to do it on. I just wanted to give you that heads up. Now in order for the system to work properly, there's a fuse that we have to pull for the HHR to go into towing mode. What we're going to do is pop out this panel, and we're actually going to be using a by-pass, which will basically be like a switch that we can flip when we want to go from tow-mode to non tow-mode. Now what we're looking for is the number eight fuse, which is going to be, from the top right corner, it's the third one down. It's going to be a small two amp fuse, ignition switch, pass key three plus. That's our area. Fuse number eight. We'll just get that guy pulled out of there and set that fuse aside. Get our fuse by-pass. I want to pull the connectors, right here off this backside of it. We'll need to take the nut off the back, and then we want this to pass through our panel here in a safe area. What I mean by safe area, is we certainly don't want it to go hit anything. We don't want it to take any of the information off of our door, so it looks like this area would be a good spot. It really doesn't have much going on behind it, so right in there should be a pretty good location. Take a three quarter inch hole saw and we want to cut that out. Put our switch threaded in, or pushed in, whatever works for you. On the back side, let's thread our nut on there. We don't need a tremendous amount of force on here. Just torque it down enough to where it gets a good hold. Plug our connectors back in. Our two amp fuse is going to go in the holder that's on the by-pass here. Pop the cover on there, and then we need these to go in where the fuse came out. Again, needle nose will come in handy here. Now we want to just coil that, and put our panel back in place. Now inside of our coach, we want to get our monitor light installed. This is going to notify us if the lights in the towed vehicle are activated. That's important because if it comes on, and if we're not hitting the brakes, well we've got a problem. The other small item you see here, this is a warning signal. This gives us a little bit of a tone. Now we're installing underneath the dashboard and there's just unfortunately not a ton of room for the camera and everything else. It might be difficult for you to see but what we want to do is tie our two red wires together, the one coming from the signal, and the one coming from our light, and then this needs to go to the monitor wire. Either we're using the provided wire and running it all the way from the back of the coach up here, and using the jumper wire or like we did, we're using the brake wire that's on our RV plug that comes up underneath the dashboard here. We're going to be using part number 3035S. It's going to give us the plug in here on our forward chassis. This is Thor Hurricane with the Ford chassis. It's going to give us our plug-in underneath the dashboard. Then we'll be able to pick up using the blue wire, that signal. Then the white wire, that's going to provide our ground. Now our ground, that's going to be on our signal and on our light, and that's going to be our white wire. We're going to be connecting two reds together and then to our blue wire, and our two whites together and then our to our white wire, in case you can't see it. Now when choosing your light location, you want to put it somewhere it's going to be easily visible as you're traveling. In our case, we're just going to go right down here on the dashboard. It's a solid surface and there's no wires or anything behind it. You always want to check, no matter where you pick, that you don't have any wires or anything behind it you might do damage to. We're going to drill a five sixteenths hole. We're going to take a little bit of rubbing alcohol and clean off around that area. Then if you decide to, you can take your sticker and put on the back, indicates Roadmaster brakes are on in towed car when lit. Now since it is so tight in there that we really wont' be able to reach up and get to those wires, what I'm going to do is take a one of our provided butt connectors here, I'm going to crimp that to each side. Now since we're not using our jumper wire that came with our kit, I'm going to recycle it and use it for the wires to help extend the wiring on our light here. Now they're going to look the same of course because it's the same wire we just cut in half, so in one end I'm tying a knot. See that's got a little knot in it to help us tell them apart. The knot side, I'm going to put to my ground side here. The other side will go to our red wire. Then we'll just pass that through our hole, and just push our light right down there until it's nice and solid. Then we're going to use this small speed nut and we're going to push that right on the back of the light, so we'll have to push our wiring through. We'll push that all the way up to the back of the dash so it'll hold it nice and securely. Now located right on the side of our steering column and behind our brake release lever, there's going to be a brake controller plug. Now we're going to be utilizing this plug, like we said, for that brake controller wire that comes from the back. It's on a little clip there, we'll just pull it off. We can take part number 3035S and plug in. Now the S is going to have the bare leads here on the end. If you want to put a brake controller in, you can use 3035-P. That's going to have a plug on the end that fits a lot of common brake controllers. We'll slide that in now. You want to squeeze it until you feel that little click. Now the two wires we're going to be using are our white wire, that's going to make our ground, and our blue wire, that's going to make our breakaway signal or our brake activation signal. The black wire and red wire, just going to tuck these down and tape them out of the way. Now that we've got our light in place here, got our pigtail in place, let's connect to the ground side, our signal here. I'm going to twist that together with the wire coming from my light, using one of our yellow butt connectors here. Now our other wire here, will connect to that red side of our inaudible 00:36:41. Now we'll make our connections here. Our red wire, that needs to go to the blue wire from our pigtail we installed. Then the white wire, that's going to go to the white wire. Now we can take a few zip ties, get our wiring tucked up nice and neat. My only recommendation would be from our brake controller plug, if we come straight up towards the steering wheel, there's going to be a little metal bracket with a hole in it, I would zip tie that off there. Then maybe a couple up here a little bit higher, and that should keep our wiring and our signal and everything up out of the way. We've got everything hooked up. Let's test out our system here and make sure it's going to work. What we'll do is just simply pull that breakaway switch out of the front, and we want to the see the system activate. We want to ensure that it's pulling straight down on our brake pedal, that all of our connection points are holding nice and solid. We'll also want to be sure, when we put our breakaway switch back in, that it releases fully. With everything working properly, that's going to complete our installation of the Roadmaster InvisiBrake, the supplemental braking system with part number RM-8700 on our 2011 Chevrolet HHR.


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