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Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System Installation - 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System on a 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Speaker 1: Today on our 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, which we'll be hauling with the 2017 Coachmen Pursuit on the Ford F53 Chassis, we're gonna take a look at and show you how to install the Roadmaster InvisiBrake supplemental breaking system. Part number is RM-8700.Now, as we apply our brakes in our Coach, you'll see the InvisiBrake apply the brakes in our Jeep. Now we're can apply the brake here in the Coach and watch for the red light to come on. There'll be a slight delay. Then as we release the brake, again with the slight delay, we should see that go off. Now the InvisiBrake also helps prevent overworking of the vehicle's braking system.

When we hit our brake, it's gonna give us the braking power we need that we've got adjusted back there in the back, but in the case of a prolonged stop, if we're sitting in traffic or maybe at a stoplight, after about 18 seconds, 15 to 18 seconds, our light actually shuts off, deactivating the braking system there so we're not overusing it.Now the adjustment process is pretty straightforward. What we're going to do is drive your RV around a little bit and get used to how the brakes feel. Then we're gonna hook up our towed vehicle, and we want to drive it with the towed vehicle, and we hope that the braking feels about the same as what it would if we didn't have our vehicle hooked up. Now, if it feels like the vehicle's causing us to have to brake a little more heavily, we can pull out on our knob here and rotate it clockwise to get more braking pressure, or we can adjust it counterclockwise to get less braking pressure. You want to adjust this while somebody is stepping on the brake in the RV so you can watch your psi level.

See, it's at about 60 there, so we can adjust that down or we can adjust it up to get the proper amount of braking force that we want. Once we have it set, we can just push that straight in just like that.Now, one of the benefits we find in the InvisiBrake is the hookup process. Whenever you're ready to tow your vehicle, of course you're gonna need your tow bar, you're gonna need your safety chains, but all of the controlling of the InvisiBrake is gonna go right through the wiring that comes back for our towed vehicle wiring. Just want to get that plugged in. Then the only other connection that we're gonna have to make is our breakaway switch.

Now, this should go to the frame or the hitch of the vehicle, not the safety chain, so keep that in mind. Bring that up. You can see that hook's not big enough to go around the safety chain connection point, so we can just loop it around and connect it to itself.Once it's all set up and installed, you never have to worry about it again. You just connect your normal cables as you would any other time you're getting ready to head out, and everything's ready to go, and it'll have your vehicle braking safely.Now, the breakaway switch is a very important part of this system. What happens, if we have an accidental disconnection where the towed vehicle comes separated from our motor home, when this is pull, you can hear the system activate.

That's gonna apply the brakes in our vehicle and bring it safely to a stop.And to begin our installation, we're gonna start by mounting some of the larger components. The largest one that we've got is the InvisiBrake box here. This is what really operates the whole system. We're gonna send power in, signals in, and this is gonna use vacuum to actuate the brakes on the vehicle for us. See we've got a mounting tab on each side here. In the Wrangler, it's gonna fit best right underneath the driver's seat, gives you a pretty short run to get up to the stuff you wanna get to. On the backside, we've got the small airline input here. This is gonna run from the operating unit to the actuator. We've got the 1/4" airline port here, and you're gonna have two electrical connections.One of those connections is gonna be from the breakaway switch and the power supply. I like to get these slid in before I mount the unit, just to make sure I've got a good firm electrical connection there. The second one we're gonna have is gonna be our four-pole flat wire. This, we're gonna tie it into our towed vehicle's line. It should also be plugged in here. Now, while these are still accessible, I like to tape these up. I'm gonna tape them down a couple feet. It'll prevent us from having different colored wires running through the vehicle.Then we're gonna position this so we can still get our floor mat in up here, so we can get access to our connection tabs here on each side, and so we'll have an area so we can see our gauge and also adjust our braking pressure. Now, in the kit they've supplied two . basically two sizes of self-tapping screws. We're gonna use the largest one. Check underneath the carpeting there to make sure you don't have any issues with wiring or anything. As long as you've confirmed that's clear, we can get these secured.Now, the wiring that we have coming from the unit, and also that 1/4" airline tubing, is gonna run right underneath this panel. We're gonna pull out our pushpin fasteners here. More like a Christmas tree style fastener. I'll also pop this one off that's right here. I'm just gonna gently kind of pull up on that. Got a few clips here in the front that kind of pop off. You get that removed.Now we're gonna grab the really thin air tubing that we have here. We're gonna make our connection with this on that port that we described on that back. Just want to be sure that you've got a nice flush cut on the end. We're gonna slide it in that port and it's gonna come to a stop, and then we need to press it just a little bit further, about another eighth of an inch or so. We should be able to pull on that without it coming out. We'll know that we've got it in there securely. The rest of that length we're just gonna leave here in the seat for now.Now to connect the 1/4" hard airline to the operating unit, we're gonna be using this rubber 1/4" hose, and we're gonna slide the hard line up inside of there a long way, at least an inch and a half or so. Want it to be well up inside of there. You can see we've got it up to about right there now. That should be more than enough. Then the other end is gonna slide on that larger port, just a little bit closer to us, where we just put the smaller airline. Just gonna wiggle that so it goes all the way on.Now, my airline's gonna run out underneath the hood just like my other wires there, so I'm just gonna take a couple small wraps of tape, you could also use a zip-tie if you want. I'm just gonna secure that off to that harness so it'll kind of follow the same route.Now, another part of the InvisiBrake system is gonna be the monitor light, and this is a light that's gonna be mounted in the Coach, and it's gonna let us know if we have activation of the brake system, whether it's just a normally us hitting the brake situation, or maybe we had something on the seat that fell off and it's hitting the brake. It's gonna give us that notification so we don't have any issues. Now, the vehicle side off this is gonna have a female plug. It's gonna be the shorter length of the smaller black wire, and it's a bare wire on the other end. Now, this needs to go to the cold side of our brake light switch.With this Wrangler, you're also gonna have to do a brake light relay kit. The brake light relay kit also gets tapped into the cold side of the brake light switch using the green wire. So what we can do is make both of these connections at one time. And see, the green wire from the brake light relay is already stripped. I'm gonna strip back some of the black wire from my monitor kit with the InvisiBrake. We're just gonna twist those together, and over that we're gonna slide one of the provided blue butt connectors. Now, these will come with both the InvisiBrake and the brake light relay, so you should have plenty of them. And we'll crimp both of those in one side, and then we can connect this as normal once we split the cold side of our brake light wire. This is gonna go closer to the switch, and the black side's gonna go closer to their lights in the back of the vehicle.Now, the harness to find your brake light relay is gonna be right behind the dashboard here. I've taken this panel off so you can see it. There are six wires. If we follow our brake pedal up, it comes right here to this little white box. There are six wires coming out of it. You want to test these wires for 12 volt signal when you hit the brakes. So when the brake's applied, we'll get 12 volt signal. In our case, it's the white and brown wire up here. Verify that, though. Make sure yours is the same. So we're gonna cut that wire and we're gonna strip back both sides of it. To the side closest to the switch or closest to the brake pedal, like we said, we we're gonna add on our black and green wire; one for the brake light relay, the other for our monitor. We're gonna get it crimped down. And then to continue wiring on your brake light relay, you'll just connect the black side, or the black wire, to the one closest to lights.So to test this out, we can use either like what we're using here, a volt meter. We can also use just a 12 volt test light. But when the brake pedal is depressed, we want to get 12 volts roundabout, 12 to 13. When we release it, it should just go down to its normal range. And then again, once we hit it, right back up to 12.7. So we know that any time this brake pedal's pressed, with the key on or without the key on, we're gonna get notification in our Coach.Now I'm gonna have four different things to run outside of the vehicle. Let me get our monitor light wire that we're gonna include in that bundle. Alright. Now we'll take this in. Now, if we follow up from the brake pedal, which we have right here, just to the left of it we've got this metal arm that comes down. This'll be your firewall steering stem. You've got the metal arm that comes down here. We've got this little black grommet right up here. This is a nice, flexible grommet. It should be easy for us to push that airline tubing through.Okay, and then once we've got that through from the inside here, we'll go outside and gently pull on it. We'll just get all of our wires pulled through here. Some are gonna be a little bit longer, some a little bit shorter, so just kind of pull them individually, and, if you need to, have somebody kind of straighten them out as you do.Now, with that slack pulled through, I'm gonna use a few zip-ties just to secure our wire loom out of the way. I'm gonna go right up with this tube. So, if you are gonna do that same thing, don't overly zip-tie to it. You don't wanna smash that tube, you just want to use it just to kind of keep everything in one spot while we put the kick panel back on.Next we've got our actuator we're gonna put in place. You can see the port right here is what we're gonna plug our little thin airline into, so we just need it to be in that general direction, so that's not gonna be a difficult process to do. We go underneath that wire loom. We're actually gonna be able to attach our cable right there. And then to secure this down, just gonna use a couple of long zip-ties. So we kind of figure out where we want that to go. Use a screwdriver and poke a hole down through the carpet on each side. In one hole, out of the other, and you can do that in two or three spots. Bring these around and just tighten them down.I'll kind of test fit our panel back in here. We may or may not need to trim out a little area. We're gonna take a little notch out of here just for the end of our actuator. Can use sheers, or these are just side cutters we're gonna use here. Once we've confirmed everything fits in there with no interference or anything, just put our fasteners back in.Then we want to make a good, flush cut on our airline tubing here, and that's gonna go right in our port. It's just like on the back of the actuator: you'll push in, it stops, and then it's gonna go a little bit further, and you should be able to pull without it coming out.Now, as our wires come through the firewall, they're gonna have basically three destinations. The black oval shaped wire that has the plug on the end, that's running to the front of the vehicle to our breakaway switch. Our-four pole flat wire is gonna be running to the front of the vehicle to our six-way plug we're gonna tie in right behind that. And then the monitor light wire, this is also gonna be running up front, so we can either tie it into our six-pole plug or use the jumper wire to connect to our Coach. So I'm gonna tape up these together. The red and black wire, it's gonna stay as one wire, and it's gonna go across this loom over to the battery, where we can make our connections there. And then we've got our 1/4" airline tubing here, and that's just going right here, so we don't have to mess with that too much.Set those two aside; the airline tubing and the red and black. And I'm gonna get this one taped up as far down there to that firewall as I can. It's gonna be a little bit tough, but you can get pretty close.Now I'm gonna start running my breakaway wire, my four-pole wire, and my indicator light wires up towards to front of the vehicle there. You can use any route you want, you just need to avoid heat sources, you need to avoid sharp edges. You know, anything that might cause damage to it.So we have our wires down here. We usually tie into our towed vehicle wiring, also install our breakaway switch, and have our monitor wire available. Now, as I run my red and black wire over to the battery, I'm gonna take just a second and kind of tape it up again, kind of going down towards that grommet we came out of, just so it looks nice, and then we're gonna use zip-ties all the way across that big loom.Now, we've pretty much got everything ran where we want it. We'll start making some connections now. I'm gonna take the red and black wire, and we want to split these. And our black wire we're gonna run right along with this battery cable, and we're gonna put it on that stud right there. Now, to make our connection, we're gonna use a 5/16" ring terminal, and we're gonna go right underneath this M12 flange nut. This is an M12 x 1.25. If you don't already have one on there, that's what you'll need. So you strip that back, add on our ring terminal there, and then we'll crimp it down. Then we'll tighten that flange nut down, and that's gonna provide the ground we need for our system.Next we'll trim off our red wire here. We're gonna strip that end back. And I'm gonna do something a little bit different here, something that's not with the kits, part number DW05745. It's gonna be a heat shrink butt connector, and we're gonna use that so we never have any corrosion issues here at this connection; gives us superior moisture resistance. So crimp that down. Then we'll use our fuse holder. You see, no fuse in it yet. That'll be one of the last things we install will be the fuse into this fuse holder. Then we'll strip both ends of it back. To one end we're gonna add another 5/16" ring terminal, the other end will go to our butt connector.Now we can use heat. You can use a lighter, a mini torch. You can use a heat gun. You just want to apply a gentle heat to it. You'll see it start to shrink down. Now, the other end of that we'll attach right to one of the studs coming off our battery here. Place that ring terminal right over the stud and replace your nut. Now a couple more zip-ties, we'll be able to get our fuse holder kind of attached up here and out of the way.Now, again, we have our supplied 20 amp fuse, and that'll be the last thing we install before we test our system.Now we'll take care of getting our 1/4" airline attached. It's gonna be going right to the vacuum line that we've got right here. We're gonna be placing in a T and a check valve. To get to that, we're kind of gonna compress this sleeve that runs around it, and then we're gonna cut that, just with a pair of scissors or use a razor knife, if you want. It seems to be easier to cut if you can compress it down like that.Now, once we have that cleared off, we want to cut our hose using a really nice sharp pair of hose cutters. Leave enough space here for both the T and check valve. So, we're gonna take out that center section, then one side we're gonna slide our T in like that, on the other side we'll put in our check valve. You see how we set up our T; we've got the T here, short piece of tubing. It's gonna go into the check valve with the red side toward the engine. This side will slide on the other side of our vacuum line here. I have everything back in place. Then we'll be able to use the tube here to add in our airline, which we can do now.Now, once we come out of the firewall with that, I'm gonna go right underneath the master cylinder. That's gonna give us a clean look and it'll keep it down out of the way. Trim that off, then we'll push this up on. Just like we did before, we want to make sure we get it in there at least an inch and a half or so. Alright. Looks good. We're tied in.Now we can work on the connections here in the front of the Jeep. First thing I'm gonna do is just take either a pencil or a little scribe, I'm gonna lay it flat on the top of my base plate, and I want to mark my fascia. Then I'm gonna remove the four pushpin fasteners here on the front and the two underneath it. Now, these will have a center core that you want to pull out. Once you've got that center core pulled out, then you pull that outside area out. We'll do that for all four of these and the two underneath.I'm gonna measure down to that small mark I made, and I want to go from about an inch inside of this hole on both sides. Then we're gonna go down to just about that mark I made. I'm gonna trim out that area. Pretty easy material to work with. I'm gonna use sheers here to cut, and then we'll trim it up with a razor knife.Now we're gonna run the breakaway wire, and also our monitor light wire, right up over our tow bar there. The four pole wire, we're gonna separate this just like we did our red and black one. You just want to pull it apart. And now each of these wires needs to tie in to the wire coming from the plug on the front of our vehicle. We're gonna tie the green one into green, yellow to the yellow, brown to brown, and white, which is ground, to the existing ground.We just want to separate our wires here. We don't want to do any damage or cut our wires, but we want to get them apart. They've got a little jacket on them there we need to get through. Just gonna use a zip-tie to hold our InvisiBrake wiring and our towed vehicle wiring together, then I'm gonna cut them off color for color. So let's cut the two greens off at the same point. We'll get both of those stripped back. Now I'm gonna twist the two of those together, and we're gonna add on another one of our heat shrink butt connectors, crimp that down. And on the other side we're gonna add the green wire that goes up to our plug in the front, and I'm gonna strip that back about twice as far as normal, twist it, and double it up so our butt connector has plenty to hold onto. Just like that.Now once we have that done for our green wire, yellow wire, brown wire, and white wire, we can get these shrink down, and, if you want to, tape them up, make it look nicer. But certainly you'll want to get these zip-tied up and out of the way. Just like we did all of our other wiring, we're just gonna tape it up to keep it all together, keep it from shaking around.Now, the breakaway switch wire is gonna come up to the breakaway switch, and you have a plug that you can use. The thing about that would be that I would definitely tape that up so we didn't get any kind of corrosion or anything in there. Now we can get that taped up, and we're gonna use a short bracket to attach the breakaway. I'm gonna do it reversed, where I have the angle here on the front side of the base plate. This is gonna sit right up on top of that, that way we can kind of keep it tucked in and out of the way, slightly.Now we can use one of the holes in our bracket. We just need to slightly enlarge it, and then we'll place through our bolt for our breakaway switch. Then we'll place the nylon lock nut on. We'll place that right up and on. We've got our clamp; we want that to go around the base plate. You can see that hole that's in the middle. It'll go through there, and we feed it together. Wanna take all the slack out that we can, and then you just tip that bolt down, and that'll engage that clamp. Then we use a 5/16" bit driver or socket and secure it down.Now, we've run the monitor light wire here to the front of the vehicle. We're gonna be putting this on with the plug. I like the idea of putting it on with the plug here on the front of the vehicle, because every time you hit your brake lights this is gonna have 12 volt power. And if it happens to be making contact or something out here on the front of the vehicle, it might cause a short, so having it in a plug will protect it. We're gonna cut that off, same length as our other wires. You can see our plug's gonna fit right there. And then when we plug in our flexible coil kit, we're gonna connect the monitor wire to the brake controller signal wire, and that will be sent up to the front, and we'll tap into that there. So we'll get this plug put in now.Just like your other wires, we'll strip the wire back on that monitor wire. Slide that inaudible 00:27:39 over. And then our monitor wire is the one you're gonna be concerned with. It needs to be connected to the center port. So attach it, it's just a little Phillip's head screw that you'll remove. Place that down and in, and then tighten up the set screw to hold it in place. Now, once I have all my other wires connected, we're gonna test it out, make sure it's all working properly.Once we have our connections up there made, we're gonna put our fasteners back in. If you need to, you can always trim out a little bit more just to allow for clearance around your wiring and your brackets.Now we're gonna take care of getting the pulley mounted, and also our brake pedal clamp. This is gonna pull on the brake pedal using the pulley. You'll see I've removed this panel again. And right up here there's a little wing nut, a little plastic nut, that holds the top edge of the carpet in. I'm gonna get that removed. Once we have those off, we're gonna get this carpet rolled back so we can get a good look at the firewall.Now, our pulley needs to be mounted directly behind our brake pedal here. Now, both parts of our clamp are gonna have four holes in one section, and a single hole in the other. The single hole is gonna go toward the firewall. We'll take one of the long bolts. We're gonna pass it through there, gonna thread on the nylon lock nut. Then we're gonna use a 5/32" Allen key and a 3/8" wrench, and we'll take some of the slack out of that bolt there. Now we'll fit that around our pedal, and the other side we're gonna install this bolt as close to the pedal as we can, choosing one of those four locations. Looks like in this case we'll actually be able to use the closest one.Now, I'm gonna snug this down just enough to where it will kind of hold its position, but so I can still move it just a little bit. And on the end of our cable here we've got two nuts. We want to take the nut closest to the cable all the way off, and slide the cable through the slot in the clamp, and slide that down through. Then we'll bring our nut back up on the backside. And for now it's okay if that's just hand-tight. We need our pulley to be directly behind there.Looks like the full swing of the pedal, that'll be in line, so I'm gonna mark my hole. Then I'm just gonna pre-drill each of those marks with a small bit. Now you can use a 5/16" socket or bit driver, and we're gonna put one of the short, provided, self-tapping screws in each of the hole locations. As you can see, that's gonna have really good travel on that pulley, running directly on it. Now we're gonna finish tightening down our clamp here. Just put that in a position where you can't move it. Check again. Running very well on the pulley.So now we want to bring our cable down, and we're gonna take the slack out of it, with the exception of just enough to let the ball that's on the end of the cable come out right about to the end of its keeper there. So right about there should be good. Cable keeper here, we're gonna slide that on the cable. Once we've got that positioned, we'll get its location marked and we'll get those two holes pre-drilled. Now we'll get our cable secured up in position with the same style fastener that we used for our pulley. Now, you can see with that secure, our cable comes out a little further than we'd like. So we can just loosen up that nut on the rear and tighten up the nut here on the front, and that allows us to adjust our cable. Once we have the proper amount of slack there, we'll tighten those up with the 1/2" wrench.Now we're gonna slide our carpet back up into position here, and we'll trim it around our cable. Carpet keepers back on both sides there, and put our small kick panel back on the side here, if you removed it.Now, part of the pedal clamp here is typically sticks out over the brake pedal, and if you we're trying to hit your brakes, that was gonna be in the way. So we're gonna trim both of these off, and, if you want to, you can also cut off the extra bolt that's sticking through. Now, it's a good idea to protect the carpeting, because when you cut this you're gonna be creating some sparks, and the pieces of metal that come off can be extremely hot, and they might burn your carpet, as well.Alright, we've got everything on the car taken care of. We're gonna place the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder. We can get the monitor light taken care of on our RV. Now, in the process of our installation, we have this panel off throughout most of the video, just to give you a good look in there from the top. If you decide to remove it, you'll want a 10 mm socket, and you have to slide it up . One you remove the bolts, you have to slide it up, and then pull out. And of course, getting it back in position is gonna be the reverse of that process. Then we've got our panel here, the two tabs on the bottom, they're gonna go in, then it's just rotated up and you press straight in on the four clips.Now, as we talked about on the Jeep side, when we we're installing that monitor light wire we had two options. We decided to go to the six-pole plug right on the front of the Jeep, which is gonna transfer that signal through our already existing coil wiring through the seven-pole up to the brake controller wire we're gonna show you underneath the dashboard. If you don't wanna go that route, remember we showed you the plug that we'd have on the front of the Jeep. You've got the jumper wire. This is gonna go between the Jeep and the back of your RV, and then you've got this link that the other end will plug into, and we'll need to run this underneath the RV into the cabin, around the same location where we're gonna find that brake controller wire. The advantage of using the brake controller wire is gonna be that you're not gonna have to route this all the way up underneath the vehicle and then try to get in inside; it's gonna save you quite a bit of time on your installation, and you also won't have the additional wires to worry about connecting.Now, the two components that are gonna be visible for our monitor light are gonna be the small red LED . You can see the chrome bezel, that's gonna be pressed flush down in the dash . and we're also gonna have our sticker that's gonna go right through that hole in the middle. Now, you want to choose a location that you're gonna be able to see as you travel, but that's not gonna be like right there in front of your eyes every time you hit the brakes. So we're gonna go in this area right over here. You just want to make sure there's, of course, nothing behind the area you plan on drilling out, no wiring and things like that, and that you'll be able to get to the back to make your wiring connections.I'm gonna figure there where we want our sticker to be, then I'm gonna use a 5/16" drill bit. To start, I'm just gonna mark the area. We'll place our sticker on there in a minute, and we'll get that drilled out. Now, with that drilled out, we'll clean that area off with some rubbing alcohol.So the monitor system's made up of two components; we've got our buzzer that's gonna come on if the braking system's been on for an extended period of time, meaning something is actually pressing down on the pedal, and then we've got our red LED, which is gonna come on just during the normal braking operation.Now, the connections I'm gonna make are gonna be extremely difficult for you to see on camera, but we're gonna take the two red wires, one that comes from the buzzer, one that comes from the LED. We're gonna twist the wires together, and we'll place on one of our blue butt connectors, just like this. Now I'm gonna take extra wire. We've got some if you didn't run the wire underneath the vehicle, you'll also have some just leftover in your kit. But that'll go to the other side, and this is gonna go to either the wire you ran out through the back of the Coach, or to the blue wire from the brake controller signal. The two white wires, we'll do the same thing; twist those together, place on one of our butt connectors. And then this is gonna go to a ground source underneath the dashboard. You can use a ring terminal and self-tapping screw, if you want. We're also gonna extend that with a little bit of black wire, or you can use an already existing bolt that might be underneath there.Now, once we have this placed through our sticker and through the dashboard, there's a keeper that slides up behind it. It's gonna slide up and you hold the light from the outside, and you want to slide this right flush up against the back of the dashboard, and that'll keep this from moving. It'll be sandwiched in there just like that, and we'll push it right up against the backside. We're gonna place that sticker right over our hole. We'll take our light, and we'll push it right through.Now, on our F53 Chassis, this is the harness we're looking for. You can see it's got this square, gray plug. It was taped up right up here behind the steering stem in this main loom. The nice thing about this, is it's gonna provide us with both the feeds we need. Says the trailer electric brake feed is gonna be the dark blue wire, and the ground's gonna be the white, so that's gonna satisfy the two things we need for our notifications system to work. We'll take that tape off the end of it and spread our wires out here. We'll get our white wire stripped back, and that's gonna go to the white wire that came off of our light and buzzer. So we use the provided yellow butt connectors to do this.Now, when I strip this back, I'm gonna do it about twice as far if you're using the notification wire. It's a little bit thinner gauge, so we can double that over. Butt connector, plenty to grab ahold of. On our other side, that one we're gonna go to the dark blue wire with. This one comes from the red wires on our lights. Alright. Now, the remaining wires we have here, it's a good idea to get those taped up, or you can also wrap your tag around there and do a zip-tie around it. You just want to use a few zip-ties and get this harness zip-tied up and out of the way. Don't want it to be around your parking brake or anything like that, that might move.Now, with everything working and adjusted properly, that's gonna complete our installation of the Roadmaster InvisiBrake supplemental braking system, part number RM-8700 on our 2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, which we'll be flat-towing with the 2017 Coachmen Pursuit on the Ford F53 Chassis.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Charles G.

QUESTION: purchased RM-8400 unit from etrailer 2017, installed 1996 GEO, presently installing in 2016 Jeep Wrangler 4dr 4wdr, purchased brake light monitor switch RM-751490, 2nd vehicle install kit RM-98700, and diode protected lighting kit. 1. 2016 Wrangler has NO Steer Locking system referenced by video, please confirm not an issue with model? ___________ 2. 12VDC direct from battery to Invisibrake emergency break-away function will power t brk monitor switch, provides verification of emergency circuit power w/ monitor activation (diode installed prior to circuit POS feed)? ________ 3. Propose master battery disconnect switch located at front bumper to de-energize all circuits other than emergency braking circuits, please confirm not an issue w/ TIPM/EMS systems? _______ 4. Removing all vehicle power should delete requirement for brk lght relay kit RM-88400 kit? ______ 5. Utilizing combination brake/turn lighting harness kit w/diodes at rear lights integrated at Invisibrake unit circuits transitioning into 7 pin cable/receiver includes MH 12VDC power, brk light monitor, (1 non used circuit-MH reverse lght). Main question again, this worked properly with Geo from Anchorage to Fla Keys using a main battery disconnect. Any red flag items with 2016 Jeep interface? __________ Thank you for video, answered: vacuum air install at brk booster, excellent firewall penetration detail, good actuating cable install.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

1. As long as you perform the actions needed to get your vehicle into tow mode (see your owner's manual) there should be no issues with the steer locking system. 2. The LED indicator needs to be connected to the cold side of your brake light switch so that you can see whenever the brakes on your Jeep are being used. If you were to install it on the emergency break-away power wire then you would only be notified when that pin is pulled. 3. A battery disconnect is not needed for your vehicle so you'll need to reach out to Jeep about any systems that disconnecting it would affect. 4. If the vehicle isn't sending signals to the tail lights then there shouldn't be anything to override the signals coming from your RV. 5. Installing a wiring kit like part # RM-15267 is a great choice (see attached video). I don't know of any issues that would come up if you disconnected the battery from your Jeep. That is something that you would need to take up with Jeep on their end to see if this is something that would work.

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