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Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System Installation - 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How to Install the Roadmaster InvisiBrake Braking System on a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee


Hi there Jeep owners. Today on your 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Roadmaster's InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System. There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motorhome. You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection point between your motorhome and your vehicle. You'll need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to your tow bar. You'll need your base plate, which is the connection point on your vehicle that your tow bar will attach to.

You'll also need your diode wiring, which will take all the lighting signals from our motorhome and transfer them to the lights on our vehicle so that people behind us know our intentions when going down the road. And lastly you'll need your supplemental braking system, which will apply the brakes in our vehicle when we hit the brakes in our motorhome.Our InvisiBrake system is going to be a supplemental braking system that for the most part it's going to have most of its components mounted inside the vehicle. And this is nice, because a lot of the other braking systems that are a permanent system like this, you'll end up mounting most of those components on the outside, which does potentially expose it to the elements. This one's going to stay a little bit safer being inside of our vehicle here. And a lot of its components are going to be remotely mounted.

Most of the time your actuating cylinder, which we have located underneath the seat here next to our unit is mounted directly onto the brake pedal. And that can be pretty clunky having a big cylinder on there, and it's not the prettiest looking thing.With the InvisiBrake system, with this being remotely mounted we use a cable and pulley system to get the same operation as the ones that's mounted directly on the pedal, but without having that big clunky canister there. And you can see what I'm talking about here at the pedal. We've got our clamp on it with our adjustment screw, and here is our cable that goes to our pulley and everything else is routed underneath our carpet, so you can't really even see it. And the other issues with those cylinders when they're mounted on our pedals, sometimes if you've got a large foot like I do, when you got to press the brake pedal your foot is going to hit on that canister and it can be kind of annoying and you have to think about it.

And I get worried sometimes that my foot might damage the canister. With this type of system it's just a bolt right here. If your foot hits it you don't even really feel it, it doesn't feel any different than the brake pedal, and there's no risk of you actually kicking or damage anything.Included with your kit, you'll also receive a breakaway switch. So in the event of a catastrophic disconnect, the cable will pull the pin here and that will apply the pedal inside of our vehicle to help it come to a safe stop. Here you can see when the pin is pulled it's going to apply the break.

When we put the pin back in the break will release.We're now in the motorhome, where there is a remotely mounted indicator light to let you know when your braking system is activating. And what's nice about this monitor light you see aluminate there right when I press the pedal, is that this is connected to a stoplight switch inside. So this is only going to light if the brake pedal is actually being moved inside your vehicle. So you can be guaranteed 100% that your system is depressed in the pedal. Here on our operating unit we have our brake pressure adjustment. If we increase it, it's going to have more pressure applying our brake pedal. So it's going to stop harder. And if we go lower, it's going to stop softer. To adjust it you'll pull out the knob and then you can twist it counter-clockwise for less pressure and clockwise for more pressure.I recommend just finding a nice spot in the middle and driving the vehicle and then going from there for your adjustment. Now this system here is a great system if you want something that's very hidden that you almost don't ever even really notice it's here and you never really have to make any adjustments to once you set this up. Other systems that we have available are portable systems such as Blue Ox's Patriot. That's going to be a great option if you have multiple vehicles that you want to flat tow, because you could easily move them from one to another. This is a permanent style system. The only thing that I don't really care for with this system is that it's not really a truly proportional system. It's more of like a time delay type setup than it is. So you're not going to get the best breaking performance with it.If you want the absolute best and most natural feeling braking performance, I would recommend Demco's Stay-IN-Play Duo. If you have hydraulic brakes, and if your motor home has air brakes, then I would recommend Demco's Air Force One, and those are truly proportional systems. Those are going to have those cylinders mounted on the pedal though. So if it's going to be a little bit clunky looking to you and you don't like that, then this is probably the best option for you. But if you just want the best brake performance possible, I would go with those systems.We'll begin our installation by mounting the main components. That will make it easier to route all of our wiring if we've got everything in place. Most of these components are going to mount inside the vehicle right here on the driver's side, either under the seat or on the pedal. We mounted the operating unit here underneath the driver's seat. It's a little bit easier if you do this with the seat pushed all the way forward, and we attached it to the cover that's located here. This cover actually just pulls right up. It's just push pins and it pulls up. You don't really need to pull it up though, because we attach it directly to it.We just set it in place under here. And we just use some self-tapping screws to run it right down into this panel. Because all that's underneath this is just some wiring down there, and it's pretty far down so you don't have to really worry about your screws running into anything. Self-tapping screws come included with your kit. Next we're mounting the actuating cylinder. This is a remotely mounted cylinder and we just put it right next to the operating unit here. And we attach it to the carpet by just making a couple of slits in the carpet.And then we just ran a zip tie around it. You do get a clamp in your kit, but this is a really easy way to get it mounted, and it's nice and secure. Coming off of our actuator cylinder we'll have a cable. That's what you see right here, this black cable. And that's actually we tucked it underneath there. You can see where it's mounted to the floor. We just use a couple of self-tapping screws to mount it. And the pulley also gets mounted to the floor there. We want to make sure the pulley is mounted in a direct line behind the clamp that we placed on the pedal. So this just goes the pedal with these two bars and this bolts run through it to clamp it on there. You'll just loosen up the nut and slide this in and then tighten it down. This is where you adjust the tension on it.We don't want to have a bunch of tension. You can see it's torqued, but at the same time it's still, there's like almost no tension at all. So that way it's not pulling on our pedal. This piece here, we also just use self-tapping screws. It will take four self-tappers for the pulley and two for the hold down for the cable sheath. You can see that a little bit better. I made just a little piece of carpet that I spray painted black just to cover up the screws. So that way they can't be seen when everything's put back in place. But you can see how it tables in a nice direct line behind our pedal clamp. Now we just need to start connecting everything together. Our operating cylinder here uses a small airline. You'll have two airlines you receive in your kit. This is the smaller diameter of the two and it has a quick connect fitting.You'll just poke one in the airline in there. We're going to bring it over to our operating unit, trim off the excess and poke the other end into here. I recommend using hose cutters when making cuts as they're going to be nice clean square cuts, rather than using a pair of side cutters or wire cutters, You can get hose cutters here @etrailer.com if you need some. The rest of our wires and hoses that are connecting to our operating unit here all will run outside the vehicle so we can make their connections. So you can see that we've got our air hose attached to the operating unit. We've also got two harnesses. You'll have one with a four flat connector here that's plugged in and one with a 6-pin rectangular connector plugged in. Once you've got both of those harnesses and your hose plugged in here, the rest we're going to route under the carpet and we're going to head up here and right behind the carpet here you'll see we have a grommet that goes to the outside. We can just push these wires and hose right through there.Sometimes you can use a Phillips screwdriver to make it a little bit easier by pushing that through first, that way it kind of just wallows out the hole a little bit, and then when your wires can be more easily pushed through. I recommend using your airline here as a pull wire to pull all your wires through. Because where it comes out on the other side it's actually pretty difficult to get to. In order to gain access underneath the carpet we did had to remove a couple of trim pieces here so we can pull it up. Since we are finished with routing all the wiring underneath the carpet here, we don't need to get back under here again so we can re-install these.Just pull your weather stripping off a little bit. I put it back in place so I can shut the door. And then we can just work this piece in and the push pins will just snap it right back into place. It's got those little hooks, that's why we had to pull it up. So that way or weather stripping can also hold that in place as well. Our other trim piece here goes over top the weatherstripping and it just sits right on top and just snaps right back into place.So here's where your wiring comes out. When you pass through the grommet. It is going to be a little difficult to get down in here, you can only reach so far down, that's why I highly recommend using the airline. Here is your pull wire, because once you push that through the grommet, it typically follows the path over this way. And then you can grab the pull wire from here, pull it up, attach the rest of your wires to it and use that to pull everything through. Once you've got everything pulled through, we need to route it to its appropriate connection place. The black and red wire off the harness that was a four flat connector is going to go across the other side, because our battery connection point is over there.The rest of our wires and hoses that we routed out are going to go through here. One of the ones that we didn't talk about, because it doesn't connect to the operating unit is your monitor wire. And that's this little black wire here. You'll also need to route this inside, but this has to go from out to in because the other end has a bullet connector on it that won't pass through. So we just use the fish wire here to take the bare end of our monitor wire and pulled it back inside. We'll make that connection a little bit later. It's not going to be under the carpet. So it's going actually to be up near our brake pedal at the top. The rest of our wiring, we poke through the little grommet here, so it comes out into the engine compartment there, and here we need to make our connections now.We're going to start with the 6-pin connector that has a four wire harness coming off of it. You've got yellow, green, brown, and white here. And these are going to tap into your diode wiring that you've installed. Our diode wiring that we ran is over here. So we just ride it right over to this, it's not too far. And it just needs to connect all those wire colors into our diode wiring. So you can see here where I cut our diode wiring and half on the green. I added the green wire from our braking system to one end. And then use heat shrink butt connectors to connect that green wire back together. I did the same thing with the brown and the yellow. The white wire is your ground wire. So with that I just put a ring terminal on it, and I actually just ran it with a self tapping screw right here to the body. So that way it gets good ground.The air hose that we had routed out is right here. It just comes right out and we looped it over to a tee fitting that we put in the brake vacuum booster line, The brake vacuum booster is just on the other side where we pulled our wiring through the firewall, and this hose here we just cut with a pair of hose cutters. I did trim a little bit of the sheeting off around the outside just to make it easier. And we use the smaller of the two tee fittings that come in your kit to just attach it in line between this hose. You'll notice here that to get our airline connected there is a small piece of vacuum line. This does come included with your kit and you can cut it to the length necessary. You'll get a couple of pieces of it, and it works as an adapter to allow you to get the harder airline connected the tee fitting.You'll also use a small section of this inside to get your airline connected to the fitting coming off of the operating unit. So red and black wires that we routed over to the other side we're going to connect here. Here is your battery positive terminal here. So you just lift this up off of here and that will expose the bolt where we can make our connection to. Before we connect the red wire though, we do want to put the fuse harness that comes included with our kit in line with it before connecting to the battery. So we'll just strip off the end of our wire here in our fuse harness, we use the heat shrink butt connector to connect the two together. And on the other end of our fuse harness we used the ring terminal and attached it to the battery positive here.To remove this nut, you'll need a 13 millimeter socket. The fuse does not come installed in your harness when you first get it. You want to wait to install that fuse until you finished your installation, just to ensure you don't cause any shorts while hooking up any wiring. The black wire we routed right out through the grommet here to the ground set located here. This one also uses a 13 millimeter socket to remove the big nut. And we just attach the ring terminal on it and reinstall the nut over top of it.Lastly, we need to hook up the connections at the front of our vehicle. So on your four-pole flat connector you have the red and the black wire, but you also have this dual wire sleave that comes off of it as well. And this has a connector that's pre-installed on the end. This will connect to the breakaway switch that comes with your kit, so we need to route this up to the front of the vehicle.The monitor wire also needs to get routed to the front of the vehicle. So both of these we ran down alongside next to the air box. From there we go behind the air inlet here and our washer bottle. And then we come out through an opening here in the front. We mounted our breakaway switch to the mounting bracket for our 6 Pole connector here. We just attached it right to it. You can see the two wires coming off of it. This goes to a two-prong plug as well. So the sheath wire that has the plug in it, you'll just plug the two together. And the monitor wire is just a bullet connector and we routed that right over to here. And we just used a zip tie to ensure that it is going to stay roughly in this location.This way our customer can then connect it here. And the other end, they're going to connect to their motorhome. This is a small little bullet harness that comes included with your kit, you'll see that here. When mounting these components, you are going to have to trim out for them. It does seem like I trimmed that a lot here, but due to the limited mounting locations you've got for a breakaway switch, one of the things you can do to help give it a nice appearance when you're not flat towing, your vehicle is you can make it kind of a breakaway, breakaway switch, where it turns out of the way. So we did trim out a little bit of excess here, but this way you can see when they're not flat towing, you just normally driving their vehicle. They've got a nice, smooth front across their vehicle.When they're ready to flat tow, this will just spin out and then they can make their connections. Now to hookup your monitor wire, you are going to need a stoplight switch installed because the brake pedal sensor that's on our Jeep here is a travel sensor. So it doesn't give us the appropriate on off signal that your old style stoplight switches used to. So the stoplight switch that we've got here at etrailer.com is an additional switch that's installed next to the one on the vehicle. And its only purpose is to turn on and off when the brake pedal is depressed for our monitor light. That brake pedal switch is installed right here. When you purchase the stoplight switch, you'll receive a bracket right here. This is a custom bracket designed to wrap around your brake pedal. You'll receive a bolt and a nut here to attach the bracket as well as the stoplight switch that attaches to the bracket here.When you're putting this on, you want to make sure that the plunger is up against the brake pedal and that the plunger is fully depressed inside. And then when we press our brake pedal the plunger should come out and that will send a signal to our monitor wire to eliminate the light that's going to be in the motorhome. So once you've got this mounted up, there's going to be two wires coming off the back of our switch here. They're both black wires and it really doesn't matter which one hooks to where, you can't hook it up backwards. Our monitor wire is going to hook to one of our wires here. You see, you can see black to black because the wires coming off, our switch are black and the monitor wire's black. So we attach it to there.And the other wire coming off of our switch needs to go to a power source. This is our red wire here that we attach to it. And what we did with our red wires, we actually just attached it to the red wire coming off of our braking system, because that's already powering our braking system, so it can also power our monitor light. I actually made that connection underneath the carpet, but it just used a butt connector. And I kind of like we did outside and we we're hooking into the diode wiring. We cut the red wire. We added this red wire to one side of it and crimped in kind of an attachment back together with all of our connections complete on our vehicle. We can go ahead and install the fuse now and then make sure everything's working properly. It should be a 20 amp fuse that comes included with your kit. Once you've got that in you can pull your breakaway switch pin and verify that your system works.I'm using a test light as well with one of the tests I had to ground and the other end I've just got it poked into the bullet connector at the front so I can make sure my monitor light works as well. We can now pull the pin. I recommend hooking up your cable to it, because it's really hard to actually pull this pin without something on there. It's lighting up our light and this light only lights up when the brake pedal is depressed. So we know for sure that our system is pulling it properly. Well, it's a good idea to take a look on the inside to make sure it's pulling it smoothly and there's no binding occurring.And here you can see it's pulling our pedal. Our cable is nice and straight. There's no binding, everything's going in the pulley nice. So our installation is good on our vehicle. At this point we need to go to the motorhome now and run the monitor wire for the light in there. We're now out here on our motor home where we also need to run a monitor wire from the back of the vehicle, up to the front and then inside the vehicle for the monitor light. This is just like the one we put on the vehicle, except for this is significantly longer. So you want to make sure you're using the shorter monitor wire for the vehicle and the one that's significantly longer for your motorhome. Now I haven't got it permanently mounted here at the back here. You can see our customers had an incident here, so we're going to be doing some repairs here and then we'll get this securely mounted, but I've already got it routed up to the front.When routing it I highly recommend following any preexisting wiring or hoses and zip tying that along the way, because typically all your factory wiring is already routed in a way that's going to avoid anything excessively hot, like your exhaust, and any moving components like your steering and suspension. So if we just follow those going up and just zip tying it along the way, you get plenty of zip ties included with your kit. We're going to head up to the front now, because riding it underneath your motorhome is going to be different. Depending on your motor home, you have a lot of different accessories and layouts out there for different motorhome styles. Once we get to the front though we are going to need to get it inside and then get our light hooked up.So as you can see, we've got a fairly long RV here, we had way more than enough wire than we needed, so you could easily do a larger motor home than this. We're now at the front. We've opened up our front compartment here. So here's our monitor wire. We routed it up following the factory wiring and that module that's located right there, right on the other side of that module, I drilled a hole to get it on the inside. You want to make sure you always check the other side before drilling and just so happen that the other side of that module was the best place where there was nothing in the way. I would have loved to have put it some place over here, but there we're too many components over on the easier side that I didn't want to accidentally drill through. Our wiring came through the firewall just down below the dash there so that we we're able to route it right up and then drill a hole here to put our monitor light in.I drilled a hole with a 5/16 drill bit and order for that to fit nice and snugly in too. And there's two wires coming off of the back of your light. You'll also receive an audio board circuit that you'll want to hook into this as well. Both your audio board and your light have white and red wires on them. Just going to pull out the monitor light a little bit. It's a nice snug fit with that hole we drilled, and you can see those two wires there. The red wire is your positive wire. This is going to hook to the monitor wire that we had routed up. You'll also want to hook the red wire from your circuit board to this as well. The white wires are our ground wires. And what I did with these is I just actually ran it down to where I drilled the hole through the metal panel there. I attached a ring terminal to some of the excess black wire that we had from our monitor wire that we had cut off, because we had more than enough than we needed.We used the ring terminal and a self-tapping screw to attach that to the middle plate. And then we just brought the rest of that wire up and attached it to the white wires. And that completes our installation of Roadmaster's InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System on our 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee..


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