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RoadMaster 2nd Vehicle Kit with BreakAway Installation - 2011 Cadillac SRX

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How to Install the Roadmaster 2nd Vehicle Kit with BreakAway on a 2011 Cadillac SRX

Today on our 2011 Cadillac SRX, we're going to be installing the RoadMaster Second Vehicle Kit with BreakAway for BrakeMaster Systems. Part number is RM-98160. This will allow us to tow our vehicle behind the RV or camper without the added hassle of installing an entirely new supplemental breaking system. This is going to work with the BrakeMaster system, and includes all the hardware needed for the installation. Let's test our system and show you how it works. First, we'll hook up our towed vehicle to the RV. We'll make our connections with the airline, which will activate the BrakeMaster on our vehicle.

Then we'll hook up our brake monitor light, which is going to come on when the brakes are applied inside of our towed car. We'll also want to hook up our new BreakAway cable, and we can't forget about our wiring. All right, now we'll head inside the car and take care of the BrakeMaster. The BrakeMaster itself is sold separately as part number RM-9100. Then we'll hook the male end of that right into the female end that we've installed 00:01:31. Then we'll set the car in tow mode, pressurize our system, and check for leaks.

Now we're going to charge up the system. To do that with the hydraulic-over-air system, you'll just start your key; it'll charge. For an air-over-air like we're using today, we'll chock the wheels, start up the motor home, and then release the parking brake. Then we'll go spray down each of the connection points. Now let's pull our BreakAway switch and ensure we have proper activation. Here's where our brake switch really comes into play.

You can see here, it says, "BrakeMaster brakes are on in towed car when lit," so when I step on the brakes, I want to see that come on. Release the brakes, we want to see it go off. Working as it should. Now, the time we don't want to see this come on is when we're not applying our brakes. That's going to indicate that something's gone on in the car.

Something's shifted. We need to check it out, because the brakes are reading that they're applied. With our test done, now we'll show you how it installs. We've got to get our air cylinder mounted. We're going to do that right on top of our fuse box here. Lay it in there, just kind of pre-position it where we want it. Want to make sure we can get to our tabs here at the top, the bottom, and even right over here on the back side, so we can still get our fuse panel cover off. The cylinder's going to attach using two band 00:03:00 clamps. Let's get those around there. Figure out what our best position will be there. Then we're just going to mark those locations, so we can have an idea of about where those clamps are. We can move these up and down just depending on the exact location, so let's pull that cover off and see where that's going to land us. This one, I'm going to move down just a little bit. Poke a hole through there, and you'll see we're going to be putting our washers and stuff here. We want to try to avoid any of the writing, that way, if we ever need to reference our chart here, we'll still be able to see it. We'll try to go right in between there with it. The top hole location's going to be there. We'll move that up just a little bit, so we can avoid blocking off that number there. We'll do one there and one right there. Now let's drill out our hole locations using a 1/4-inch bit. Then we're going to use the 1/4-inch bolts and the flange nuts. Those are going to go down through our clamps and through the holes we just created. We'll secure it on the back side there. Let's go just kind of test fit it in there, make sure everything's going to fit together properly. Looks good. Let's lower the hood, and we'll check to see if we have any interference. Everything looks to work pretty well. I'm going to rotate it slightly, decrease that angle a little bit, and when it's all said and done, we'll be able to pull that right up, just tilt it over here and still be able to get into our fuse panel. I rotated that over just a little bit, give us a good angle, and then we're going to tighten our bolts down. I'll just put our cover back on, click it into place. If you haven't already done so, you're going to be mounting your BreakAway switch at this point. When we put the base plate and the tow bar on, we mounted it, because we already had the fascia off of the vehicle. Here are two wires that we've brought up from it. From our BreakAway switch here, doesn't matter which one, but one of these needs to go to our 12-volt power source. The other one's going to connect onto one of the wires coming from our solenoid 00:05:07 here, so let's get that connection made now. Let's get a clean strip on that solenoid wire. Then we can do the same on the BreakAway wire that we've run up. Use the supplied butt connector, and we'll crimp each side of that on. All right, now we'll use a little electrical tape just to wrap that up, provide us with a little bit of a moisture barrier. We can just zip tie that off here. We want that little bit of that flexibility, though, so when we want to, we can move our cover up and off. Remember that. We also want to have a little bit of extra tucked away down here, if our wire ever happens to get damaged or we need to make any repairs. We've got just a little bit there, kind of an insurance. We could really just clean that look up quite a bit by wrapping that with a little bit of tape, as well. Tuck that down and away. Now let's take care of getting our 12-volt power in 00:06:06 right under our solenoid there or 00:06:10 air cylinder. Clip it off. Now we'll bring our 10-amp, in-line fuse holder. See inside here, going to have our 10-amp fuse. We're going to take that out and set it up here for now. These are going to connect on 00:06:25 just like a butt connector or a spade terminal connector would, anything like that. Now we'll take the other side of the wire we just trimmed off there, we'll strip it back, and put the other side on here. Now the other side of that we'll put on a ring terminal. Now we're going to be going to the stud located right underneath this cover, so let's go ahead and pull that back on each side here, here, here, and here, we're going to have two clips. We'll get the first set undone, the second set undone, and then this is just kind of going to roll back towards us. Just let that hang out right there. I would use just a little bit of black tape here and provide us a little bit of a vapor barrier. Do it around the fuse holder end here, as well. Now that we can connect right onto our stud coming up out of the battery. All right. We've got that connection made. It's going to come out here to where we can easily service our fuse, and then we've got plenty of extra wire hanging out there that we'll be able to just tuck away down here in case we would ever need it. For the other side of our solenoid, this needs to come out to our ground terminal. Luckily, our battery's really close here. Shouldn't have any issues getting it connected. I'm going to bring it down . I'm going to bring it right up through one of those clip holes, where these tabs go down and clip in, and then we'll bring it there onto that stud. Now we're going to add a ring terminal to it. All right. Both our connections are made there. Everything looks good. We'll get our cover positioned back over, and we'll push it down so it clips in place. It looks like, down here, the cover wants to interfere slightly with that fuse holder, so let's just pull it up, and it'll be 00:08:39 hanging right there for us. Here, you can see we've installed our tow-ready short bracket. That's part number 118140. We did that while we had the fascia off. We knew we'd need an air line connection point, so as you're doing your base plate, great idea to go ahead and get that put in. We'll bring our two bolts down through. That's going to give us an awesome location to mount our bracket, just like that. We can bring it up on there, and it'll 00:09:07 stick out of the front, but before we do, we're going to go ahead and get our air lines plumbed on the back, that way we won't have any interference issues with our bolts. Now we're going to start running our air line. We need to go from our solenoid valve up here down to our bracket locations. If we go right underneath the lip here and kind of get it started the right direction. We want to look for it to come around the corner here. Now with enough tucked in there, we'll go around the underside and see if we can't bring it on over. From the underside here, we should be able to reach up, find the end of that hose, and just keep directing it over the right direction. If we look right in here, we'll see where that tube's come out, kind of back in behind the power-steering cooler there. Just keep working it over here the right direction, and we'll see we'll have it come out here right where we need it. Really nice positioning. Now we can take the end of our hose, and we're going to snip that off nice and flush. This is a tubing cutter we sell at etrailer. That part number is F9009. Then we'll take our nut; we're going to slide that up on, follower by the ferrule, and then we're going to insert the little brass insert there. We'll come down, loosen 00:10:22 the back of the fitting, and we'll bring that down and tighten it up. All right, looking good there. Slide our bolts right down through, and once we have that up on our bracket, we can secure it with our nuts, and then same thing on the other side here. Just tighten those down. That'll take care of that front connection point. As you can see, nice, sturdy. Then, when not in use, we've got the dust cover that's going to slide over the end and keep that grime and gunk and stuff like that from getting in that fitting on us. Now we can bring our air line back here and just get a rough figure of where it's going to need to be. It's going in the lower fitting, or the fitting that has the elbow. That's the air-in. This is the air-out, so this is going to go inside the car. Just like we discussed before, our top's removable there, so I'm going to go ahead and pull the top off the fuse panel. We've left enough room, if you remember, so we can just lay it over just like this, and still access that fuse panel. Now we can do the same thing that we did on our front connector. Slide on the nut, ferrule, insert, and we'll run it 00:11:40 right on in. With that connection made, let's get our cover repositioned here. That's going to leave our other connection point nice and open there. It'll be easy to get to. Then, when it's all said and done, we'll take care of cleaning up some of these wires a little bit, get everything tucked down and away. Now we've got this plastic panel here on the underside. Let's get rid of this, give us a look up there at the backside of the dashboard, and see where we can get that air line from the outside in. We'll have a Phillips screw located here, one on the opposite corner, and then we've got two push-pin fasteners right up here. We'll gently pull out on the bottom of the dash here. We have a few clips we want to separate, and we'll also pull off the little side panel here. A few pressure clips in there; you can see one, two, three. Of course, we don't want to rip our OBD sensor out, so let's remove that quickly, and when that's out of the way, we'll see another push-pin fastener that we've got right here and also here. We've got a light right here. There's small tabs on each side there. If we push those tabs in, we can pull that cover off there. Then there's also a little clip that we'll have to push in once that cover's gone to pull that connection out, and let's also separate this one. We'll separate our little connector here, as well, like that. Then we'll just need to use a trim panel remover tool and pop those two Christmas tree fasteners out, and underneath those, inaudible 00:13:35. Let's go ahead and set that aside. That gives us a look at the back side of the dash here. Right here, we've got a grommet that runs from inside of the car to outside of the car. Now what we're going to do is take an old piece of air line; we're just going to slide it through that grommet beside wire loom and feed as much through as we can. Use a screwdriver and try to open that up just a little bit. Now after we get that poked through there, you'll see right back here. You'll see a little piece of red tubing, so just look for it in that area. Pull it on out there. Get it up here where we can work with it. We're just going to tape the new air line right off to that, and we'll use this one to pull this one in. Now, also at this time, since we're putting a brake switch on in this application, we're going to go ahead and get that added. Pretty good tip there: any time you're going to be pulling something through the firewall, get everything you're going to need all in one go. Now with that taped off, we'll pull from the inside and bring that stuff right on through where we can work with it inside the car here. Now we just unwrap it. Now we need to decide where to mount our female quick disconnect. This can go up underneath the dashboard in a convenient location. It can go down here, go on your floor. We're going to go right onto our bracket here. That'll give us a nice, sturdy mounting location. Now we'll route our air line to the mount. We're going to hide the line behind the panel here. To help push it back, we can just use a screwdriver or a trim panel remover tool. That should be really nice. It'll give us plenty of slack. I moved the caution sticker out of the way, so we're not blocking off any important information there. Let's get this lined up, mark out our location there. inaudible 00:15:36 use our self-tapping screws. For hooking up our air line here, we're going to take the compression nut, slide that down on the tube, slide our ferrule down on the tube. Then we'll use our tubing cutter again and square up that end nicely. In will go 00:16:37 our insert; slide that as far in as we can. Put our ferrule down as far as we can, and then our nut. Now for one last touch, I'm going to angle this backwards just a little bit. Kind of levels that all out. It's not sticking out any further than our connection point here on our bracket, so really nice and convenient location to mount it while you're in here getting this mounted, quick connect right there. You're not going to have to worry about trying to get up under the dashboard or somewhere else. We'll take our other end of the air line here, just going to kind of maneuver it around, get it to where it can be in a pretty relaxed state when we connect it in, right there, which that looks like it would be pretty good. Might actually rotate our cylinder just a little bit. Then we'll take our nut. We're going to slide that up on, followed by the ferrule, and then we're going to insert the little brass insert there. We'll come down, loosen the back of the fitting, and we'll bring that down and tighten it up. Now comes time where we need to install the motor home-monitoring wire. Several different ways that that monitoring wire can get its signal. In our case today with the SRX, we're going to be using the RoadMaster brake light switch. This is part number RM-751441, and essentially what this is going to do is it's going to mount on a bracket right in front of our brake pedal, and when the pedal is released, it comes out and holds that bottom in. But if for some reason that pedal we're to engage, or if it gets depressed, then it releases that switch, and that's going to send a signal into our motor home. It's going to notify us that we need to . Either we've got a problem with our braking system or something of that effect. If you're actually hitting your brakes in your RV, then you're going to have the LED light inside the RV. It's going to come on. It's going to indicate to you that, yes, in fact, your BrakeMaster's doing its job and it's pressing that pedal. You remember when we ran our air lines in, we ran two wires here. The red one's going to be our power wire. That's going to come up here, connect onto a positive terminal with a battery inside the fuse holder here. There's a 10-amp fuse. We're going to go ahead and pull that out for now. Set it right up here where we can find it later, just that way, we 00:19:07 won't have any power 'till we put that in. Our green wire, that connects onto our motor home-monitor wire. This is the wire that's going to come with your second vehicle kit. It's got a plug-in right there, so we can plug that into the motor home, and that'll send our signal out to the front. That gets attached to our green wire. We'll use a butt connector for that, which is going to be supplied. For the plug-in side, we want to get this mocked up first, so we need to get this ran down. Typical location's going to be right beside the wiring connection. You might have a four-pole or six-pole connection there on the front of your towed vehicle. We want this to be very close to it, so let's route it down there the way we want it to go. This is going to be very similar to when we ran the air line down to the front. We're going to use something to fish our way down through there, and then, ultimately, we'll pull our wire from behind with that. Then we can connect the monitor wire here at the top. Our wire will be down here, where we can easily connect it into our RV. Now that we know we've got plenty down there to make our connection, we'll trim off the excess that we've got. We'll strip the end of it, and also strip the end of our green wire. Then we'll use a butt connector to secure those together. We'll put a little tape on there to keep that out of the elements. While we're out here, let's also take care of our red wire. We'll add the ring terminal to that. We can connect it to our battery. Since we don't have the fuse in here, it won't be as if we're actually making the connection. It won't be 'till we add that that we'll actually get power. Like the other connections that we made, the one that powers our solenoid, it's got the same style fuse. We've still left that out. We're going to do those at the end, but we're going to get this in and connect it at that same stud on the lower side. Let's pop our cover off our battery here, then we'll go to that stud right there. Once we have it in place, we can just snug our bolt back down, bring our cover back down in place. Just guide our cover down there on there easily. We've got new wires that we've added in and air lines, and make sure everything's clear while you're doing it. Looks like we've got a little bit of extra red wire. We'll pull that in, and we'll still want to tuck our fuse holder down in there. The green wire looks like we're in an okay distance there. We've got a little bit of slack, so we won't have to worry about shortening that up at all. All right, we've got those wired up. Let's take care of getting our bracket and switch in place. If we look right at the top of the brake pedal here, this is our brake pedal assembly. You can see the whole thing's going to move. We've got two bolts holding it in place. One you can't see; it's right here in the back, and one right up here in the front. It's going to need a 13-millimeter socket, and we want to get up there and loosen that bolt. Let's take it on out. Our bracket's going to go right up in place there. Before we put our bracket in place, it's going to be a good idea to put your switch on. Take one of the nuts off there, slide it through, put it back on. We want to get 00:22:54 the smooth side towards our plate. We'll take our bracket and switch assembly, place that bolt back through it, and put it right back in that same hole. All right. We want to be sure that our brake pedal's in the highest possible position that it can be in, the position out closest to us. With no more room there, we'll move our bracket so our switch is fully depressed, and then tighten our bolt right back down. You can see, when we depress our pedal, our plunger's going to come out, indicating that something there has happened. When released, it'll keep our switch in, keeping us from having that signal coming up indicating that our brakes have been pressed. Now we'll strip off the green end, the red end, and add the supplied spade terminals there, so we can hook that to the back of our switch. Now we'll slide the green terminal on the back side of our switch, and then also bring our red wire connector up. Good news is, it doesn't matter which way we do them. Just like that. Now we'll tidy up our excess wires, set it to the side, in case we ever need it down the road. All right. Now we can put our dashboard back together. For our side panel cover, we want to line up these two tabs. There's a hole right there and a hole right there. You kind of sneak it in behind the weather stripping there. Now we've got our two fuse holders here. Let's go ahead and get our fuses replaced since we've got everything put back together. Both of them use 10 amps, so we're not going to have to worry about having the wrong one. Out of the way, but still accessible, so if we ever need to change a fuse if we happen to blow one, or something like that, we'll be able to get right in there and take care of it. Now sometimes, we'll go around, zip tie everything off, get it real tight and real compact, but we got to remember, we want a little bit of flexibility in everything, in case we ever need to remove this fuse panel cover, so we can lay it right over. We don't have to worry about removing our cylinder. There you have it for part number RM-98160 on our 2011 Cadillac SRX.

Info for this part was:

Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Andrew L
Video by:
Andrew L
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H

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