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Roadmaster Stop Light Switch Kit Installation - 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How to Install the Roadmaster Stop Light Switch Kit on a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Today on our 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee we're going to review and install the Roadmaster Stop Light Switch Kit, part number RM-751449. Here's what our brake switch will look like once it's installed. Typically, the additional brake switch or stop light switch is added for vehicles that are being towed. When the vehicle is in recreational, towed mode, the manufacturer's brake switch power is shut off, therefore the secondary brake and stop light switch is added so that it will send signal to the supplemental braking system. When the brake pedal is depressed, the plunger is extended, turning on the switch, supplying power to the green wire or cold side and a signal to the supplemental braking unit. This is a simple switch and it does have an inline fuse holder coming from our positive battery source. To give you an idea, we've got our test light grounded, we touch the cold side with the brake pedal in the resting position, there's no power going to the signal wire.

We press on the brake pedal, triggers our switch turning on our test light. We'll now go ahead and show you how to install it. To begin our install we need to locate the brake pedal bracket. To locate the brake pedal bracket we need to remove the under dash panel and to get it out there will be two pushpin fasteners. To remove the pushpin fasteners, we can use a flat bladed screwdriver or in this case I'm using an interior trim panel tool.

This application also has a wiring connector that runs to it, we're going to go ahead and disconnect that by pressing on the connector lock and removing it from the panel. We'll pull the panel out and set it aside for re-installation later. We follow the brake pedal arm up, find the bracket that secures the manufacturer's brake switch. In this bracket are two pre-drilled holes, the pre-drilled hole closest to the firewall will be our attachment point for the new stop light switch bracket. Before we install our bracket, let's go ahead and prep it by installing the switch onto the bracket. Provided with our install kit will be a bolt, a split-lock washer, and nut for attaching the bracket to the brace.

Here we have our stop light switch, on the end of the stop light switch is a threaded portion with two nuts and a star washer, these nuts can be adjusted to set the depth of the plunger on our stop light switch. We're going to go ahead and remove the nut and star washer, putting it through the pre-drilled hole in the bracket. Once we have the switch in the bracket, we can go ahead and re-install our star washer and nut. We'll just leave the hardware for the switch loose at this time as we'll need to make adjustments after it's been mounted. Next, coming out of the back of the switch will be two wires; one will be considered the hot side for our 12 volt supply and the other will be considered the switch light or signal wire, also referred to as the cold side of our switch. The red wire, with the inline fuse holder will be for the 12 volt, or hot side and the green wire will be for the cold side of the switch.

We'll go ahead and strip the wires back, now we'll notice the wires coming out of the switch are both black, it doesn't matter which side we hook to which. We'll use the blue butt connectors supplied with the install kit to secure the wires together. We'll just use some black electrical tape and wrap up the butt connector connection points. To install the new stop light switch bracket, we'll take our bolt, feed it through the attachment point. Once we have our bolt in place, we can slide the bracket on over the bolt, then our split-lock washer, and hex nut. After we get the hardware on we'll make sure the bracket is lined up with the brake pedal, and the white tip of the plunger is making contact with the brake pedal arm. Once we've got everything set up, we'll go ahead and tighten down our fastener. Double check your plunger action. Now all we have left to do is to route our wiring. Next we're going to take the red wire, which is our power supply and route it through the firewall and ultimately to the vehicle's battery source. For this application, we can pull the carpeting down, locate the manufacturer's grommet where the wiring harness runs through the firewall and utilize the manufacturer's grommet. Using my utility knife, I'm going to open up the grommet here on the inside so that we can get our pull wire, which could be a stiff piece of wire, in this case we're going to use a piece of air tubing, and push it through the grommet. Second layer of grommet can be a little tough so I'm going to use a screwdriver to help get the pull wire through and we'll go ahead and push enough through that we can gain access to it in the engine compartment. Once we have the pull wire in place, we'll take our power wire, I'm just going to feed it into the end and secure it with some black electrical tape. Now we'll move into the engine compartment, locate our pull wire, and go ahead and pull the power wire into the engine compartment so we can gain access to it. Once we have it in the engine compartment, we can go ahead and remove the pull wire. Now our power wire's not quite long enough to reach all the way over to our battery sourece, so we're going to add a little extra wire. Go ahead and strip it back, add the supply butt connector, crimp it down, bring in the extra wire that we've added, slide it into the butt connector, crimp it down, and then wrap it up with some black electrical tape. Keep in mind, as you route your wire here, in the engine compartment especially, stay away from any moving components such as steering or suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust. We're able to run between the windshield wiper cowling and the seal between the engine compartment and the hood. Next we'll show you how to go ahead and get into the fuse box. Simply press on the two latches and open up the door. Here, going into the fuse box is a 12 volt battery source that we can connect to. We'll route the power wire to it, cut off the excess from our power wire, and we'll the ring terminal that was supplied with the install kit, slide it onto the power wire, and crimp it down. We'll then go ahead and remove the nut off the fuse box stud, install the ring terminal, and then re-secure the nut. Next I'll go ahead and secure the power wire as necessary with some zip ties. We'll also cut off the excess from the zip tie just to clean up the install look and we close the fuse box. With the kit installed we're ready to hit the road and that'll do it for the review and install of the Roadmaster Stop Light Switch Kit, part number RM-751449 on our 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Video Edited:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Andrew L
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee David F
Installed by:
David F

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