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Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit Installation - 2021 Jeep Gladiator

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How to Install the Roadmaster Universal Diode Wiring Kit on a 2021 Jeep Gladiator

Hi there Jeep owners. Today on your 2021 Jeep Gladiator, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Roadmaster's Diode Wiring Kit. This kit's available in six different options. You can purchase it with just the diodes and the wiring and you need to get it installed, and the remaining five options will come with a connector at the front, as well as the appropriate cable to plug into that connector. There are two options for the 4-pole. You can get a 4-flat or you can get 4-round.

And then there are options for 6-way to 7-way, there's three different ones there, and those are going to vary depending on which type of tow bar you got, which one's best for you. You can get a straight cable like we're using today here, where it runs through the channels on your tow bar.It's also available in a coily cable. That's great if you don't have any channels because it keeps the cable from dragging on the pavement. And lastly, there is a hybrid cable where it's partially straight and partially coiled, and that's great if you've got a tow bar like this but maybe you need an extension back here for accessories you've got, or maybe a high low adapter, and that causes a wider gap between your vehicle and your motorhome, the other end is coiled so that way the excess here won't drag on the ground.What our diode wiring kit is going to do is it's going to take all the signals from our motorhome and transfer them to the lights here at the back of our Jeep. The diodes act as a one-way check valve that allows those signals to travel to the light here at the back, but not backfeed into the rest of our system to cause any damage to the Jeep.

You'll have two diodes on each side, which will give you all your lighting functions, which includes your turn signals, both left and right, your brake lamps, as well as your tail lamps.Having operating lights in the back of your vehicle is going to keep you DOT compliant in all states. There are a few other options out there besides diode wiring. You could get a bulb and socket kit, which you would actually drill a hole into the backside of your light assembly and install a bulb in there and wire up that bulb for your lighting. That's nice if you're worried about tampering with any of the wiring on your Jeep. You're running all new wires with that bulb and socket, you're not going to touch any of the existing wires on here.

The thing I don't like about that is you do have to drill a hole into the assembly and on many of your modern taillights that are LEDs, there's just not room inside for that bulb.The other option is magnetic lights, which you can stick onto the roof of your vehicle. They wouldn't work out so great on our Jeep here, since we don't have a metal roof, but on some of your other vehicles, they would work fine. You can stick them on the side as well, wherever they will stick. Those are great, especially if you don't want to do any installation. You simply just stick them on the side and route your cable up to the front, whether you do it on the outside or through the inside, and then plug it into your motorhome.

Things that I don't like about those is that you have to set them up every single time you want to flat tow. With this, once you spend the first little bit longer time to get it installed, it's just plugging it in and you're ready to go each time.The other thing is that with those, you can lose them, you got to remember to keep them out, where you're going to store them, and they do have pads on the bottom to help prevent any abrasions on your vehicle, but over time, those pads could wear down.There's five main components you'll need when flat towing your vehicle behind your motorhome. You'll need your tow bar, which is the connection between the motorhome and the vehicle, you'll need your base plate, which is the connection point on the vehicle that you'll attach your tow bar to, you'll need your safety cables, which is a supplemental connection in addition to the tow bar. You also need your diode wiring, which will take all the lighting signals from your motorhome and transfer them to the lights at the back of the vehicle so they know your intentions when going down the road. And lastly you'll need your supplemental braking system, which will apply the brakes in the vehicle that you're pulling so you can come to a safe stop.We'll begin our installation here at the front of the vehicle. Your mounting location where you're going to be placing your 6 or 4-way connector, whichever one you decided you're going to be using on your flat tow, that's where we're going to start. I went ahead and just took the wire that comes in our kit and I taped it to the bracket here with just enough length that we can make sure we can get all of our connections made, and then I routed to the rear of the vehicle so we can make our connections behind the taillight. And then from here, we take our wire and we route it up over the frame over here on the driver's side, and from there we actually just keep going straight up until we get it above all the rest of our components there. We're going to be tapping into our braking system, our braking system needs to see the signals from our diode wiring, so that's why we routed it up.Now if your braking system doesn't require any of the lighting signals, you could just stay here along the frame and run it straight back. But again, if you've got a braking system, it can make your life easier to route that up so you can more easily make those connections.So here you can see where it comes up alongside our washer bottle. We're then just going around the outside of our washer bottle and stay above our fender well here. This is where I tapped into the braking system right here. These wires are coming from inside the vehicle where our braking system is. The diode wiring then, we just go back a little bit further to the firewall there and you can see where the wire drops down, and once we get down, we actually go into the frame and we're going to stay in the frame going back to keep our wire protected.So right here at the back of the wheel well, when we come down the firewall, we poke right into the frame here in this large opening. And then from here, we stay inside the frame and route the wire back quite a ways. There's plenty of holes open on the outside of the frame here, so as you're routing your wire down, I would just route it from one hole to the next, making my way down until we get all the way back here.So you can see here we come out just behind the muffler here, but we come out on the outside of the frame to stay away from our exhaust. From there, there's factory wiring right here, so we just follow that factory wiring back, staying up above our suspension components. We continue following along that factory wiring because we know it's going to be routed in a way that's going to avoid anything hot like our exhaust, any moving components like our steering suspension. So we continue back, we stay above the exhaust heat shield. We come out from behind the heat shield here again, following our factory wiring towards the rear of the vehicle, all the way back until we get to our frame here.So here at this point, we are going to split the wire. We had four wires that we ran back, a white, brown, yellow, and a green. When we get here to the back, the green wire needs to go over towards the passenger side and you can see it running off towards the passenger side. The remaining three wires, we want to go here over towards our driver's side, and we're going to go up behind the taillight assembly. There's a large opening right here. You can see where our wires goes up. You can easily push your hand up in there to poke the wires up. We're going to go ahead and remove the taillight assembly now, so you can see how to get that off. And again, you'll see how large the opening is. You should have no problem poking those wires up behind that taillight assembly.To remove your taillight assembly, you'll want to open up your lift gate and you'll see that there are two screws here. We're going to remove those with an eight millimeter socket. Now you've got both of those removed, the taillight assembly just pulls straight rearward. It can be a little bit tight, but it does just pull, just like that. You see the two pegs that it's got here that go into the round ends, so we'll just pull those. We can then press our lock tab out, pressing on the release button there, and then separate the connector.Now with our taillight assembly removed, I went ahead and just pulled that wire up again. You can look straight down, you can see the ground down in there, so it's really easy to pull this up. And once I got it up here, I did zip tie it up next to our connector here, just to make sure it stays out of the way of anything moving in there, kind of following that factory wiring right there. So here we've got our yellow, our brown, and our white. We're going to take our snips and we're going to cut in between each of the colors and that's going to separate them out so we can strip those back. Once you make a small snip in between them, they actually just kind of pull apart. It's almost like candy that you just peel apart there, and we're going to strip each one of these.So here we have our diodes. You're going to get four diodes, and they're all going to look like this except for one. One is going to look just like this except for one of the blue spade terminals is going to be a yellow one. We're going to use that yellow one now. These just pull off of here, I find it easier to work with if you just pull them off. We're going to be putting them back on later. But the purpose of our yellow is because our brown wire here is our taillight wire, and we need both the driver and passenger side taillights to work.So since this is only going to be sending it to our driver's side right now, we're going to take the white wire, we're going to twist it with our brown wire here, and that's why they give you an extra large spade terminal here. It's got a larger opening to fit over two wires. This white wire is our ground wire, but it only needs to be grounded at the connector end that's towards the front of the vehicle where we started. We can use a small section of this white wire here at the rear of the vehicle to jump for this brown wire over from this side over to the passenger side. So we will be cutting the white wire further on down the line, that we had led back, so we can route it over to that passenger side.The yellow one here, and every other wire that we're going to be working with, is just going to use the regular blue spade terminals that we've got there. So now that we've got this side connected up here with the wiring, we're going to go ahead and move on to the light. Now you could tap into the lights here on the wires here, but I find it's much easier and it kind of keeps things cleaner if we just do it on our taillight assembly here. We've got easy access to the wiring right here, there's large openings here that we can put our diodes in so we don't have to worry about them bouncing around and stuff like that. So it just seems to work better. And what's nice about this too, is both your driver and passenger side taillight wire colors are going to be identical on the taillight housing side. So we're basically going to be wiring up both exactly the same.I've gone ahead and just cut off some of the sheeting here on the wires to expose them and the ones we're going to be focusing on are the yellow wire, which is our stop and turn circuit, and the solid white wire, which is the fourth pin there over from this yellow one here. So these are our two. The white one is going to be our taillight circuit. So now we've got those separated out, we're just going to take our snips, we're going to go ahead and cut, and then each end of these wires we're going to strip back and then crimp on a blue spade terminal like we did with our other wire.Now we can start connecting our diodes. We'll start just here on the assembly. The out arrow there is always going to go towards the light, which in this case is going to be this side here. So we're going to plug it here, going towards our lights, and then our other end of our wire we're just going to match those colors back up and put that back to the end. We're going to do the same thing with this one over here. Towards our lights on the outside, and then in from the vehicle here. Now we're going to go over to the connectors that we made over here. Our yellow one was stop turn, so that's going to be the yellow wire that we had run up. So we're just going to plug that into the other end that we had left open there. And it can be a little difficult to get these to plug in, the connectors are very close together and they kind of like to interfere with one another, but you can force it on there and it'll be okay.The other one's our taillight circuit, which is the brown one here with the white on it. So we're just going to plug that into the other inside, and then we can put our assembly back on. We're going to go ahead and remove the adhesive backing from our diodes. You could stick these onto the light assembly. What I did is I found it best to stick the two together, and then I'll actually use a zip tie or some electrical tape, whichever, and just wrap it around the wire like that to hold it with our wire just like this. Can plug our assemblies back together, and then we'll route the green wire up just like we did this side and we'll make our connections over there. Again, you're going to set up your diodes the exact same way, the same wire color and pin locations for your diodes are going to be the same over on that side. The only difference is going to be where we plug in the wires to the diodes.So you can see over here on the passenger side, these are going to hook up just the same as your driver's side. You can see we had cut the white and the yellow, just like we did over there. Yellow is still the stop turn and white is still the taillight. So the only difference here is where we plug in the wires that we routed. Over on the driver's side we plugged our yellow wire in next to the yellow wire where we cut. On this side it's going to be the green wire because that's the stop turn circuit for our passenger side. This is the white wire that I was talking about, that we had attached to the brown wire and used the yellow spade terminal on. We had cut it further down the line enough to be able to route over to this side and push up, and then we put a blue spade terminal on it and then just connected it to the end here with the white wire so we can get that taillight signal from our motorhome sent over to this side as well.So we're back underneath the vehicle here and you can see just above the muffler, kind of towards the rear of it, this is where I had cut the white wire and peeled it back and ran it over to the other side. The easiest way to determine how much length you're going to need is to start with the green wire, route that green wire kind of just roughly over to that side, to where it looks like you're going to have enough, and then I take the green wire and actually fold it back along the wire until the green wire stops and that's where I make my cut, wherever I'm folding that green wire back. And that way I know the white wire is going to be long enough to go over to the other side.The rest of this white wire, that's going on towards the front. At some point, we need to have a ground between our connector at the front and the vehicle's frame. We can do that right here with the white wire. So we're just going to peel down some of the white wire here, and then we can run it just right into the frame or the body. And we're going to be putting it probably in the panel right here, this cross beam, so we're just going to strip it back. You'll receive a small ring terminal in your kit, we'll take our ring terminal, we're going to slide it over our wire, and then we'll crimp it down. We can then take that ring terminal, and we're just going to run it right into the frame here using the included self-tapping screw.Now here at the front, we can start hooking up our wiring. Now, if you purchase the kit that doesn't come with any connector, we sell various connectors here at etrailer, whether you want to go with a 6 or a 4-pole connector. 6 is the most common for flat tow setups, but our customer has decided to go with a 4-pole for his here, so that's why he purchased the kit that doesn't come with an umbilical or a 6-way connector. But you can get kits available that come with your umbilical cable. There's three different styles, depending on the tow bar you got, which one works best. And they also all come, if they come with the umbilical, they'll come with a 6-way connector that'll mount right into your base plate's bracket.The wires that we got here, we're going to hook to our 4-way. It's going to be similar to a 6-way connector, except we're going to be using every pin. We're going to take the wires here and separate them, just like we did at the back, and then peel them back just a little bit. We'll also be stripping each end of these wires after we peel them back. So now we're just going to go ahead and connect them to our connector. It does need to slide through your connector first. With the 6-ways, you're only going to be sliding it through the boot, normally, but the boot on the 4-way here is made onto the connector so we have to slide the whole thing through.There was a small rubber boot, I went ahead and poked that over our wires as well and tucked it up in there, so that needs to go on first. And now we can go ahead and start making our connections. Now, if you we're to purchase the kits that come with a connector, those connectors are going to be labeled on the backside, so making those connections is extremely easy. But with our 4-pole round here, there are no labels on it, so we're just going to have to start making our connections. The top right, is going to be our right turn signal, so that's our green, so we're just going to grab that green wire. And we know this is top because that was the screw that we'd removed from the top of the connector that was holding it in. So we just slide it right on our wire and then tighten the screw down to secure it in place. That's how we'll be securing all the wires.Now we want our top left, which is our left turn. That's going to be our yellow wire. So this one's just going to poke into there, we'll screw it down. And then we'll hook up our taillight wire next which is the bottom right, it's going to go right below that green wire. And then lastly, the ground's going to go in the only remaining slot. Once you've made all your connections, you'll just push your end inside your connector, and then you'll line up that screw hole that was on top with the opening and then re-install your screw to secure it in place.Now, if you had a 6-pole connector, those ones don't have any screw you have to deal with or anything. The rubber boot just pulls off the back and it exposes all your wires, so you can make all your connections. Once you've made all your connections with your 6-pole, you're going to do like we're going to do here before you slide your rubber boot on. With this one we're just going to do it now. Right here in the back, we're going to need some dielectric grease, and we're going to force it down inside of our connector there and that's going to keep out any moisture, ensuring a long lasting connection. We're going to go ahead and put a little bit on this side as well.I'm going to go ahead and tape this up. If you we're using a 6-way you'd now slide the rubber boot on, and then I like to tape up the rubber boot as well. I'd tape the rubber boot up on each end to ensure that it stays on the 6-way and then it seals up the other side and keeps our dielectric grease that we put in there in place as well.Now, if you have the 4-pole like we do here, you are going to have to provide your own hardware. It didn't come with any hardware and the hardware that comes with our base plate is for the 6 holes, the 6-way connector holes, which are here on the outside, so the lower holes here for the 4-way, the hardware doesn't work with it that comes with the base plate. You can get hardware at your local hardware store or here at etrailer. We're going to be using some from our, this is from a no-drill short bracket kit, which is often used for mounting 4-way connectors.Now, if you need some hardware for your 4-way connector, you can pick that up at your local hardware store. So we're just going to secure it on here, and then once we've got it secured, we can test everything out. We've now plugged into our test box here so we can make sure everything's working properly. You can plug into your RV at home and then just operate your lights. Make sure you have your taillights, left turn signal, right turn signal, and brake lights.And that completes our installation of Roadmaster's Diode Wiring Kit on our 2021 Jeep Gladiator.

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