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Roadmaster 4-Diode Universal Wiring Kit Installation - 2018 Jeep Cherokee

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Roadmaster 4-Diode Universal Wiring Kit on a 2018 Jeep Cherokee


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Jeep Cherokee, we're going to be installing Roadmaster's Four Diode Universal Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles. Part number RM-152-98146-7. This diode kit is going to allow your RV to send its brake, turn, and tail lamp signals to the lights on your vehicle.This will allow vehicles behind you to know what you're about to do, and will keep you in compliance with local laws.Here we are in our RV, and all of our signaling devices are going to activate back on our vehicle. It activates our left turn on both the RV and on our vehicle. The same happens with our right turn, our break lamps, and our tail lamps.Along with this diode kit, it's gonna come with a six pole connector and a cable that goes from six pole to seven pole so you can hook it to your RV. This is great not only for the diode kit and getting your signaling devices, but it acts as an interface that will connect your RV to your vehicle or other systems, such as a breaking system or any other signaling you may want to provide your vehicle.This diode and wiring kit connects to the tail lamp circuits here at the back of your vehicle.

The diodes keep the circuits separate from your factory wirings, so you don't have to worry about any interference between the two circuits.What's great about this type of kit is that it's installed in the vehicle and always ready to go when you hook up. So some of those other systems where you have to put lights on top of the vehicle, you don't have to worry about forgetting to do that or one falling off, it's always there and ready.We'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle by removing both tail lights. We'll start by removing the two bolts on our passenger's side here using a T30 torch socket.Once you remove both bolts, you'll just want to pull rearward to release it from the two tabs here. If you're having difficulty removing it, you can use a plastic pry tool to give yourself a little extra leverage.Now we're gonna test to make sure which one's which on our wires. We're gonna need to find our turn signal, break signal, and our tail lights.

On this vehicle, the turn signal and the break lights are the same light. We check our white and yellow wire, and we have our turn/break signal. And then the wire next to it, the white and gray wire provides us with our tail lamp signal.Then you're gonna repeat the same process on the other side. On our driver's side, the yellow and white wire is for your tail lights. And the white and green wire is gonna be for your break lamps and your turn signal.We'll now remove both of the tail lamp assemblies from the connectors by pressing on the tab here and pulling outward.

We can then set it aside and do the same on our other side.We're now gonna take a piece of airline tubing, run it down the backside of the bumper, feeding it so we come out the bottom side. Now we'll tape our wiring and our kit to the line that we just fed down, and we'll use that to feed our wiring back up into our tail light area.Strip back some of the sheathing on your little wire harness on the vehicle. This way we can access the wires to tap into them. We can now cut it so we can splice into it. You wanna make sure you leave yourself a little room on both sides.

Cutting our yellow wire, 'cause that's our tail lamp wire on our driver's side, and our white and green wire 'cause that's our turn signal wire on our driver's side.We'll now need to take the wiring that we ran up, snip back the ends to separate each color. You're gonna want to peel back quite a bit of the green wire, as this one's going to be run across to the other side. You're also going to want to peel back the white wire, 'cause that we run underneath the ground. And then we'll just need to peel back a little bit of the yellow and brown, just to separate them so we can make our connections.The brown wire is for our tail lights. We'll need to use the same wire on both sides to tap into our tail lights. You can use some of the excess white wire to run from one side to the other, however, keep everything color coded. We're gonna be using some additional brown wire.To get that brown wire fed back up to our tail light so we can run it from one side the other, we're just taping it right to the wire we already ran to the tail light, and we'll just pull it up using the wire.Now strip back each of the wires that we have up here at the tail light. We can then twist both of the brown wires together and connect it using the yellow terminal off of one of our diodes. We'll then connect one of the blue terminals to the yellow wire, and then we'll connect blues to each of the remaining wires.We'll now connect the diodes. The out on your diode is gonna go towards the connector in, so we'll start by plugging it into the white and green wire. We'll then plug in the other end of the white and green wire to one of the ins. And since the white and green wire is our turn signal and break lamps, we'll be plugging in the yellow wire into the other in.We'll now connect our other diode in a similar fashion. We'll plug the out into the connector in, the white and yellow wire. We'll plug the other end of the white and yellow wire into one side of the diode. This time we're gonna plug the brown wires that we have to our yellow connector here into the other in the diode.We can now peel back the adhesive backing on each of your diodes and find a location to stick them to. If there's not really a good suitable location to apply them to, you can just stick the two together.We can now reinstall our driver's side, tail lamp assembly. Go ahead and plug the connector back in, then reinstall your tail lamps.Now we're here on our passenger's side. We're gonna do our fish wire trick again and push our airline tube down, as we're gonna be using this to feed up the green and brown wire.We're now underneath the vehicle. We took our brown and green wire, we ran it across the bumper. We're now gonna connect it to this pole wire and pull it back up so we can make our connections at our tail light.We're gonna cut our white and yellow wire, 'cause that's for our turn and stop lamps, and the white and gray wire, 'cause that's for our tail lights. And then we're gonna strip back all ends of each wire, including the ones we just ran up.Then connect one blue terminal on each end of the wire you just stripped back. We'll then connect the out to the connector side of the white and gray wire. We'll connect the other end of the white and gray wire back to the in on our diode. Then we'll connect the brown wire to the other in on our diode.Take the other diode, plug the out into the connector end of the white and yellow wire. Plug the other end of the white and yellow wire into the in, and plug the green wire that we ran up into the other in.You can again peel back the adhesive backing and stick the two together. We're now ready to reinstall our tail light assemblies.We'll now connect our white wire, which is gonna go to ground. Well, there's a location just on the frame rail, we can remove a bolt, grip on the ring terminal that came with the kit, and then run that bolt back in.So we'll go ahead and get a rough length of what we need, about to there, trim off the excess white wire, strip it back, and install the small ring terminal that came in the kit.We can then remove the bolt with a 13mm socket, slide on our ring terminal, and reinstall it.We can now take the rest of our wire, we're gonna route it underneath our vehicle up to our engine compartment. When routing the wire, you want to avoid any hot objects such as your exhaust or moving components such as your steering and suspension. I'm gonna route this wire now, and then I'll show you how I ran it.We went in and routed our wiring following the factory wiring up over our rear suspension, down next to our fuel tank, going alongside the fuel tank, up into the under shield here. To get it up to the under shield, I did take out some of the bolts on the side here to poke it in. You'll need a 10mm socket for these two bolts and a 13mm socket for the one here at the front.Then we came right out here at the front. We're gonna do our fish wire pull trick again to get that wire up into our engine compartment. Take our piece of air hose again, we're gonna run it down behind our fuse box, back towards the fire wall underneath the vehicle. We'll then connect it to our air line hose, just like we did before with some electrical tape, pull it back up, now we've got our wire in our engine compartment so we can run it up to our six way in the front.And now while you can just run this wire straight along the bottom all the way up to the front, it's best if you're in the engine compartment if you're deciding on selling a breaking system, or if you're deciding maybe in the future you'll want to upgrade, having it in the engine department here will make it much easier for you to tap into these for your breaking system.Now routing our wire up to the front so we can connect it to our six way. Make sure you leave yourself a little bit of excess here in the compartment so you can tap into those if you are doing the breaking system.The best time to install this wiring is when you're installing your base plate, 'cause you'll already have the inaudible 00:11:20 so it will make it much easier to install our wire.We just put this base plate on here, so we've gone ahead and lifted the inaudible 00:11:26 so we could make this much easier. Now here we've got a long bracket, part number 18136. We're gonna be using this to mount out six pole connector and also our break away switch.Now, with it coming straight out like this, you would have to trim a lot of the bumper off. So before we do that, we're gonna bend this bracket a bit, also bring it back in so it doesn't stick out so far, but also drop it down so we can minimize the trimming we need to do on the bumper.We've placed our bracket in a vice so we can bend it over and manipulate it the way we want it to be shaped. I'm gonna go ahead and bend that now and I'll show you the shape that we're looking for at the end.So we've gone ahead and bent our bracket so it angles it down and then back out, drawing it closer to the vehicle and also dropping it down so we don't have to modify our bumper as much. And then drill out two holes with a quarter in drill bit. This will allow us to use some self tappers to thread into it our bumper.We now want to position our bracket in a location where it's not gonna be in the way of our license plate bracket or the solid plastic that's gonna run around our base plate. This way, it's gonna stick out in the mesh grill area. So you want to line up the edge of your long bracket with this hole here.Then run some self taping screws which you can buy here at etrailer.com up into the bottom of the bumper. Now mount our six way bracket, slide the bolts down on the top, and thread the nuts on the bottom. We're using the hardware from the long bracket kit to do this. There is hardware included with your diode and wiring kit, however, these are black so it'll match a little bit better than the chrome bolts.We'll then tighten them down with a 10mm socket. We can not connect our wiring. Take the rubber boot off the back of your six way connector, slide that over your wiring, route your wiring through the bracket, take your snips to separate each colored wire, now strip back each end and we'll connect it to our six bolt.We'll start with the white wire, which is our ground wire so you'll unscrew the screw where it's labeled GD, slide the white wire in, and then thread the screw back down. And then do our brown wire, which is the one labeled TM. This is for our tail lights. And lastly we'll do our breaks, turn signal wires. The green is for the passenger's side or the right side that will go in the one labeled RT, the yellow is for the driver's side or the left side, that'll go in the one labeled LT.Now we do have some excess wire. This is okay, we can tie this up and we'll have it just in case we need it for future repairs. We can now put our seal back on. Before we put that all the way back on, I'm gonna put some dielectric grease around our connections to make sure it keeps out moisture and prevents erosion.Then we can take some silicon, put a little bit around this edge to seal it tight, slide your rubber boot on, and then we'll take the back end and we're gonna pack that with some silicon.We can now take the hardware, provided with the six wave connector, slide the screw through the front, and then thread the inaudible 00:15:16 knob on the back. Then tighten it down with a Philip's head screwdriver and 10mm socket.Now you can plug it into a tester or your RV, operate your lights, and verify that everything's working properly at the back of your vehicle. Here we have our right turn, left turn, break lamps, and tail lamps.So as you can see here, our left turn signal's working properly. But if you have a breaking system installed in your vehicle, and it applies the breaks, it's going to override your turn signal, so the people behind you They won't know what you're trying to do. So we're gonna be installing a break light relight that'll disable your break lights from your vehicle when the vehicle's in it's tow position.We'll be using part number RM-88400 to accomplish this. So you've got our diode kit installed, now you need to prepare your cables so you can hook it to your RV. Now on our vehicle, we're gonna be using these Falcon tool bars.So before you want to install your cable end, you're gonna want to run it through the tow bars. On this tow bar, this'll be the RV side, this'll be the vehicle side. You want to put it on the tow bar that corresponds to the side your connector's one. Since ours is on the driver's side, we'll be running it through this channel.After you've got your wire fed through, we'll prepare our end. Go ahead and take out the large screw in the back using a Philip's head screwdriver. Then take out the spacer. Note which way it comes out that the square cut out is on top and the rounded edge is down. And then take out the small screw located in the front by the terminal ends.Once you remove that screw, you can separate the housing from the connector end. We'll slide the housing over our wire, and now we'll start making our connections. G is still gonna stand for ground, and we'll hook our white wire there. Then starting from the white wire going clockwise around, the next wire is labeled L for left turn, which is the yellow wire. Then it would be R for right turn, which is the green wire. S for stop signal, which is your blue wire. T for tail lamps with is your brown wire. And lastly your power wire goes in the center, which is your black wire.We'll go ahead and get all those connected now. After all the wires are connected, use some dielectric grease to seal up the ends, to hold out any moisture and prevent corrosion.After you've got everything connected, slide the housing back over the connector end and reinstall the small screw. Then take your lockdown for your sheathing, put it with the curved edge facing down, and reinstall the set screw.So in summary, to get our 2018 Jeep Cherokee towed behind our RV, we used Roadmaster's Easy 5 Base Plate, Roadmaster's Tow Bar Wiring Kit, SMIs, Stay and Play Duo Breaking System, Roadmaster's Break Light Relay, Roadmaster's Falcon Tow Bars, Roadmaster's Safety Chains, and Roadmaster's High Low Adapter.And that completes our installation of Roadmaster's Four Diode Universal Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles on our 2018 Jeep Cherokee.


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