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Demco SBS Air Force One Second Vehicle Kit Installation - 2013 Cadillac SRX

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How to Install the Demco SBS Air Force One Second Vehicle Kit on a 2013 Cadillac SRX


Today on our 2013 Cadillac SRX, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the SMI Second Vehicle Kit for Air Force One Supplemental Braking Systems, part #SM99209. Here's what it looks like once it's installed. This Air Force One system's going to be a second vehicle kit, so it's not going to have all the parts that go to your coach cause your coach should already have them in place and this is just to be able to tow a second vehicle, should you have 2 vehicles you want to tow. It's going to be a proportioning braking system. It's going to run off the coach's air brakes, so if you just give it a little bit of a light brake pedal action, your car is only going to have some light braking. It's going to be a one time setup so that this will always be in your vehicle. When the air hose is unplugged, it's inoperative. Once you plug it in, then it's going to operate. The kit's going to come with everything needed to install it into your towed vehicle. Now let's go ahead and show you how it's installed.

Now our first step's going to be a inaudible 00:01:00 breakaway switch. There's already a bracket in here that they put on when they had to inaudible 00:01:05 off and our their base plate. We're going to go ahead and take a little bit of electrical tape and we're going to wrap up our wires, just to keep the colored wires out of the way. You just need to do the first couple of inches just so when we look through the grill, we don't see multiple colors under there. Now we're going to mount it with the supplied 1/4 inch bolt, flat washer, and nylon lock nut. We're going to get our bolt in through the inside of the grill here.

This is going to take a little bit. Now if you're doing a base plate at the same time you're doing your braking system, it's a good idea to put all this on before, but since this one was already doing, we're going to have to fight it a little bit to get it on there. Once we have the bolt up through there, we'll take our breakaway switch and we'll slide it down over the bolt. You want to try and keep it as close to center and next to the electrical connection as possible. This makes all your hook ups a lot easier. While we have our hand up in there, we stuck the wire and followed it around inside into the engine compartment and we just pulled our wiring up from the bottom side around the radiator.

We'll just temporarily tie it to this wiring harness just so it doesn't fall down out of the way. Our next step is going to be to mount the operating unit. This can be mounted in the car or outside the car. We found the best place to mount em on these cars is going to be right here on top of this engine cover. We're going to use a couple of wire loom connectors, the metal wire loom clamps, available on our website, part #A0250. We'll put a couple of those on here. Remember this.

We're going to take out this Torx T30 bolt. Now we can take out the oil cap. We're going to just pull up. Just pull firmly. There's some rubber snaps that fit up inside into these rubber grommets for some corresponding metal studs that stick up. We have one there, one there, and one on the backside and they fit into these rubber grommets. There's 3 of those in there and then we have our owen 00:03:21 bolt that comes through. Now you want to make sure you put the oil cap back on while you're working on this and so you don't drop anything down inside the engine. We're just going to set this back into position just so we have an idea of where we're going to mount our operating unit. We're very determined that underneath there we've got plenty of clearance. These are our loom clamps that we're going to mount this with. We're just going to put 2 of these on there, one on the other side. We'll just snap it around this bar, pinch it back down. Then we can drill 2 small holes and put a couple nuts and bolts in there to hold our operating unit into place and should it ever need to be removed, it'll be easy to remove it. You just take out the 2 screws and set it to the side. Now I'm going to go ahead and slide these all the way to the top, that way it won't slide any further down into the engine compartment. Then we can go ahead and just mark them with a paint pen. Now we're going to go ahead and take about a 3/16 drill bit and we just want to drill through there. You want to be careful on the backside. You do have some insulation and we don't want to mess it up, so make sure you go through it nice and slow. Now we're going to take some small machine screws plus some star washers that are built on them for locking. We're going to slide the screw up from the inside through the hole and hold it from the backside. We're going to take our operating unit and set it into place. We're going to install our net and we'll repeat this for the other side. Now we're going to go ahead and run down these bolts. Now it's going to be mounted nice and secure. The next thing we have to do, we have to locate the hose that comes out of our vacuum booster, which is going to be this one right here, and we're going to try to glue it to a spot where it's kind of flat. We're going to put in this vacuum check valve and also a T. From the T, we're going to go up to our operating unit and tie into that. We'll take our cutters and cut in in half. Now we're going to throw away this covering because we're going to have to do some shortening of these hoses to make all this fit in there. We're going to go ahead and just cut out this piece that we cut here and we're going to remove the whole thing. We're going to take some of the hose that came with our kit. We're going to make our new connection here, so we're going to figure out we need about that much inside and we'll need about another inch on the other half to put our check valve into, so we'll have about a 2 inch section that we're going to put here. Then we'll take the black side of our check valve and you'll press it in. We can reinstall the factory clamp onto our hose and we'll slide this back on to the factory T and we can reinstall that clamp. We're going to take our T. We're going to cut another section, about a 2 inch section. We'll slide it over the straight part of our T and to that we're going to slide onto the end of our check valve. Now we're going to have to cut another section out of the original hose and we'll insert the other end of our T into that. Now these are pretty flexible, so you can move em around a little bit and it's not going to really cause any issues and from the other side of that, we're going to mount the long length of line that's going to run up to our operating unit. We're going to have one more check valve that we're going to put in on the line that comes out of our T that's going to go into our operating unit, so we're just going to cut this here at an easy location and we want to mount it with the black half of our check valve towards the operating unit and the white side here going towards our T. We'll just put that in the line, the middle here, and we can reinstall our cover. You've got to push it down on those 3 grommets. We'll reinstall our oil cap. We can reinstall that T30 bolt that we removed earlier. This is just going to hold this plastic cover into place. Should it be getting bumped, it won't come off. We're going to make a nice sweeping turn so we don't have anything pinched, figure out how much we need to cut off, and we'll go ahead and snip that off as well. Now we made sure we left enough where we can take our engine cover and flip it up out of the way should you ever have to work on the engine. Then we'll slide this into the operating unit. We're going to take a small drill, put a little hole in this back of this panel right here, and we're going to put a zip tie on there just to keep this from bouncing around and keep it secure. We don't want to make this super tight. We just want it to keep the hose from bouncing around. Now we're just going to take these wires and we're going to route them towards the battery area. We're also going to need to mount the airline connection that's going to go between the coach and the car, so we're just going to go ahead and drill a couple small holes in here to put some 1/4 inch bolts and nuts on the bottom side. Once we have our bolts in place, slide our bracket up in there, put our nylon lock nuts on. After we got our bracket tight, we took some of our airline supply with our kit and we're going to run a piece of it up to the top. We want to make sure we don't kink this in anyway. This has got a little bit of a bend in it, so we're going to trim off a piece. If you don't have a tubing cutter, you can pick one up on our website, part #AL10530. This'll give you a nice straight cut across the bottom side. Now we're going to take that and we're going to plug it into the backside of our plug here, our outlet. We're just going to push it in, and you'll feel it kind of bottom out, and give it a tug, that way we know it's nice and tight and it's secure. We've made sure we ran it up on the top side here, so we don't have any extra kinks in it and we're going to bring it out on the top through our operating unit. Once we get our line up where we want it, we're going to trim it off a little bit and we're going to run it behind some running harnesses here to help keep it tucked nicely out of the way and give it a straight shot into the operating unit. This is going to go into the air in side of our operating unit. Now remember, we want to leave a little bit of excess here so we can move our engine cover should the need arise, so we'll go ahead and do our final cut. We're going to slip it into the operating unit on the air in side. You're going to feel it bottom out. Give it a tug that way you know it's nice and secure. Now if it is moving around, then you want to just get a couple of zip ties and put them in there just to keep it from bouncing around. I think we'll actually put one on the bottom side here and tie it to a piece of this wire loom from my factory wiring and we'll trim off the excess. We're going to do a couple of the electrical connections while we're out here under the hood. You're going to have 2 wires coming out of our operating unit and you're going to have a blue and then an orange with a black tracer coming out of our breakaway switch. I'm going to go ahead and cut that breakaway switch wire loose that we temporarily tied up earlier. Now the blue wire is going to tie into one of these wires that comes out of this operating unit; it doesn't matter which one. You can just pick a wire and we're going to connect the 2 of them together. We're going to go ahead and cut back one of the wires, shorten it up a little bit. We're going to strip it back about a 1/4 inch. Now this is a pretty thin wire, so we might go a little bit further. We're going to take it and double it up so it'll fit into our connector a little better and we'll fold that one over and we can shorten up our blue wire as well. Now this one we only need to strip it back about 1/4 inch cause it's a little bit thicker gauge wire. Taking one of our blue supplied butt connectors, we'll slide it over the blue wire. We're going to crimp it into place. Now you want to get yourself a good set of crimpers. This is going to make your job a lot easier and if you over-crimp em, you can cut the connection and therefore compromising it, but if you under-crimp it, the wire can come loose, so you want to invest in a good set of crimpers. Give that a tug and we're going to put some electrical tape around this just to kind of help protect it. We're going to have that length of brown wire that came with our kit. It's going to need to get tied in with this orange and black wire and now that's going to go to the other half of our fuse holder that's going to go directly to our battery. We're going to go ahead and strip that, both of those wires, about 1/4 inch. Now we're going to go ahead and use a yellow butt connector. If you don't have any of these, you probably want to pick up a couple of the yellow ones cause for the larger wires, it's a little easier to crimp them together than trying to squeeze them into a smaller blue one. Now we're going to go ahead and take our wire and we're going to run it towards to battery here. We're going to take our fuse holder. We'll cut in an offset. Now the short half we're going to attach to the butt connector we just made here with our brown wires. We want to crimp that together. Give it a tug and we'll go ahead and tape that one up to help protect it. Now we're going to strip back the other side of our wire, our fuse holder, and put on one of our ring terminals. We'll crimp that on. Now we're not going to attach that to the battery at this point. We're just going to lay it over here towards the battery so we know we have a long enough wire. Now this brown wire we're going to save because we're going to have to run this through the firewall once we locate a grommet to put it through and the other wire that comes out of our operating unit is going to need to be grounded. On the Cadillac, there's actually a ground stud right over here next to the battery, so we're going to go ahead and take that stud out. We're going to install a ring loop connector on the end of our other black wire coming out of our operating unit and we'll place that onto that stud. This is another thin wire, so we're going to go ahead and strip it back a little extra so we can fold it over onto itself and take our butt connector, slide the wire up in there, and we'll crimp it. We want to give it a tug to make sure that it's crimped nice and tight. Then we can take a 10 millimeter socket. That's going to loosen up this connector. We'll just remove that stud. We want to route our wire just so it stays out of the way of anything that could get pinching it and keep it out of the way of everything else. Then we'll take our stud through our ring connector. Now we're completely grounded. Our operating unit is actually all wired up. Now this is a grommet behind our overflow bottle for our antifreeze. To access that, we're going to need to take the cover off the battery, so we're just going to push in these tabs and it's going to release our battery box cover. We'll set it to the side. Now we can take these 2 clips off and we'll set these clips aside. Then we're going to loosen up the battery hold down bolt, which is going to be a 13 millimeter. We'll remove our whole inaudible 00:17:11 and set it aside. Now we're just going to take our battery and slide it back. We're going to take off this clip on our overflow bottle and we can slide our bottle forward and push it over to the side. Now if we look into the back there we're going to see a nice large grommet on the firewall. On the backside of that's going to be a plastic cover on the inside. We're here on the inside of our vehicle. There's going to be 2 phillip screws, one on this side and one on this side. We're going to remove those and take off our lower dash panel. Once we have those 2 screws out, we can just pull out on our dash panel, squeeze in on these tabs for our data link connector, and we'll set this whole panel aside so it's out of the way. Back here against the firewall, there's going to be some foam padding. It's going to be 4 pieces that fit into a little piece of plastic on the firewall. That's going to be the backside of that grommet that we saw from the outside. We're going to take our step bit and we're going to drill a hole through that plastic grommet, bringing it outside to the outside of the vehicle. Now it's gone into the rubber on the other side, so we're going to probably have to take a little knife and slice that to make the hole a little larger. Now we're going to push that piece of airline tubing through the outside of the vehicle. Now we're going to take our brown wire and we're just going to take some electrical tape and tape the wire onto our piece of airline tubing that we put through the firewall and we'll use that as a piece of fish tape just to pull the wire back onto the inside of the car. Now we can disconnect it from our tube and we'll pull our tubing back outside to the length we're going to need. Now we're going to take our airline tubing and we're just going to go ahead and route it to the outside of our bottle here, same place we'll run our wire. Then we can slide our bottle back into position. Once we have it slid back in, we can put this metal clip back on. Now you want to make sure you don't drop this down in there. Slide our battery back up in place. Then we could reinstall our pull down. We got to make sure we put these clamps back on that hold down this fuse holder on top of our battery. We're just going to snap over. Now we can take our cover and we're going to set it back into place and we'll latch it back down. If we can lay our fuse holder back up on top here, that's going to be our last connection. Now we'll route our tubing, trying to make a nice large arc. This is going to be going into the one marked air out, so once we have it figured out where we want to cut, which will be right about there, take our tubing cutter, cut it nice and square, and we're going to press it into the airline fitting marked out. Push it in till it seats. Give it a tug. We know it's locked in. We're going to go ahead and put a couple more zip ties just to keep our lines from bouncing around. Now we're going to mount our coach notification light. It's going to be 3 bright LEDs, so we're going to mount it to the backside of our mirror. Now if you choose, you can mount it to the top of the dash or you can use some hook and loop and attach it if you'd like to. It does come with a piece of that. We're going to make ours a permanent fixture and we're going to mount it to the backside of our rearview mirror away from any of the sensors that are on there. It does have some 2 sided tape on the back, so we're going to use that, but before we do that, we're going to take a little bit of rubbing alcohol and we're going to rub the backside off just to make sure we don't have any oils or dirt that's on there, anything that's built up, so we get a good adhesion. Once that's dried a little bit, we can peel off the red part of our 2 sided tape here. We can take our light and place it on the backside of our mirror. Press it into place. We'll take our wire and we can tuck it up into our headliner. Now you're going to notice that the wire's not going to be long enough, so that's what that roll of black and red wire that came with our kit is going to be used for. We're going to lengthen that and run it down. Now I just took our red and black wire and twisted them at the end to kind of keep them together and we're going to strip those back about 1/4 of an inch and we'll twist up our wires. Take a couple of our supplied butt connectors, crimp it, and give it a tug. We'll install one on the other side, on our black wire. Now we're just going to put em in, matching the colors. Now they do have these little ends on here. That's going to help our wires stay inside our plug and make it larger because it's a really small wire, so we'll just slide that whole thing inside, pinch it into place, give it a tug, and do the same thing for our black wire. Once we have those connected, we'll take a little bit of electrical tape and wrap it up to help protect our connections. Then we're going to just tuck it back up into our headliner. Then we're going to go ahead and just try to tuck it in along the edge of the windshield here, trying to stay behind our A pillar. We want to make sure we run it on the inside. Just stay away from this area here cause that's where your airbag can deploy out of and you don't want to have the wire interfere with your airbag. We went ahead and just tucked it all along the inside of this A pillar molding. We pressed it down in between here and the dash and came around and we'll drop it down the side of our dash panel. One of our next steps is going to be mounting this air cylinder with this reed switch. It's going to act as your brake light switch. That's what's going to tell the coach notification light we just installed when to come on. Now our reed switch is going to have 3 different colored wiring. We're going to have a brown, a blue, and a black. Now the brown wire that came through our firewall, we're going to attach that to the brown wire on our reed switch and we'll go ahead and strip it back. We're going to install a supplied butt connector. Now you want to make sure you leave enough blank for that reed switch to come over and hook onto our brake pedal like that. These wires that are on a reed switch are very small, so I like to take them and strip them back a little further and double them over. Now we'll just double it up and put it into our connector. Now we can crimp it down. Give it a little tug. You don't want to yank too hard because this wire's very small and it can break. Now the red wire that came down from our notification light on the back of our mirror, we're going to strip that one back as well, reinstall one of our connectors. We'll crimp it down. Now we'll attach our black wire to the red wire from our light. Our last connection's going to need to be the black wire coming from our light, the blue wire coming from our reed switch, and we're going to need to add another short piece of wire to tie em all together and we're going to ground that to the chassis. I got a short piece of scrap black wire. We're going to tie it to the thin blue wire that comes out of our reed switch. We'll twist those together. Then we can slide on to one of our butt connectors. We're going to take the black wire that came from our light on the back of the mirror and we'll place that on the other side. We'll give that a little tug and we're going to go ahead and take some electrical tape and we're going to tape it all up and that short piece of wire that we added for our ground, we're going to take one of our ring loop connectors that came with our kit. We're going to ground it right here to the inside of our dash. Now we can take the 10 millimeter wrench or socket, slide our ground wire into place, and that's going to complete our wiring portion of this install. Before we put everything back together, we're going to take some silicone, RTV silicone. If you don't have any, we have it available on our website, part #LT37467, and we're going to take that silicone and just seal up the hole we put in the firewall. Our last step's going to be to mount our cylinder onto our brake pedal here. Slide the plate back on and we're just going to lightly tighten up these bolts to hold everything in place. Now you want to make sure as we're tightening all these bolts on here, and all these nuts, that we do it in a crisscross pattern, that way it makes everything nice and even as we're tightening up. Now you can see it's going to be able to move back and forth. Ideally, you want to put it in the center cause that way if you need to loosen it or tighten it up, you always have a little bit of adjustment there. Another note, if your car has power pedals, you want to make sure before you use this system that you always have your pedals drawn all the way getting closest to the seat and whenever you're going to use a inaudible 00:28:45, you want to make sure you actually have the pedals in that position as well, cause you're going to adjust everything for when the pedals are the furthest away from the firewall. Now we're going to need to secure the anchor point for our cylinder onto the firewall. You want to make sure you have it on the straighter line as possible and you want to make sure that as it pulls all the way down, it's still on the straight line, cause if you have it running on an angle, it's going to wear the inside of the cylinder prematurely causing failure. Once you get an idea of where you want to put it, and we're going to put a spot right there where I just put that white paint mark, we're going to go ahead and cut out some of the rubber insulation on the floor here. Once we've gotten down to the bare metal, we're also going to need to the cut the carpeting back, so we'll just cut a little square out of this. Now this has also got a stud screw on it that you're going to use to adjust the cable length and you always want to make sure you have it go through, loop around, and go back through. Just be careful not to over-tighten this as you don't want to fray the wire. Then we're going to take our supplied self-tapping screw and I'm going to kind of figure out where we're going to put it first and then we're going to go ahead and drill a small pilot hole so we can make it start a little easier. Now we're going to want to do the final tightening of our bolt here by hand so we don't strip it out. Now you can see that's a little too tight, so we're going to slide it forward, see if we can get the proper amount of pressure there. You want to have about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of slack in your cable once everything is tightened down. Once you have it in the location you'd like it, you can see we've got a nice straight line. It even has a pull that's going to keep it fairly straight and that's what we're looking for. Now we're going to go ahead and snug up our bolts using the crisscross pattern with a 3/8 socket. As we'll tighten it, you'll see this aluminum start to bend around the pedal and that's what we're looking for. Then we'll know it's got a nice tight grip, so we have them all equally drawn down. Now we want to double check and make sure we still have that 1/4 to 1/2 inch of slack, which it looks like we've still got that. You also want to make sure you have this about 2 to 3 inches above where the ball of your foot would ride, so it's not going to interfere with your brake pedal operation. Now you want to attach your reed switch with this small set screw here. You want to do this before you actually apply any power to the system, there's the set screw, cause we don't want to cause an arc. If you actually do end up causing an arc, it's going to make the switch stay in the on position at all times and you'll have to replace the switch. Now take a small flat-bladed screwdriver, pushing this all the way in, and we're going to tighten up our set screw. Just give it a little tug to make sure it's going to be tight. Now you're going to notice this does move and that's going to be normal. It's not going to harm anything for that to move. It just rotates on there. One of the last things we're going to do is we're going to attach our airline. You want to make sure you leave a little bit excess so it has room for movement and we'll take our tubing cutter and we'll cut it off on a nice flat cut on the end. We're going to slide it in and give it a tug and we know it's secure. Then we take a little bit of wire loom we're going to put around the outside here to kind of keep this wire and this tube wrapped together, which is going to be part #459075-1 and that's going to be sold by the foot, so you can just pick up a couple feet. This is going to kind of help keep everything tucked up nicely and out of the way. We've got our loom started on there. I'm going to put a little bit of tape on it so it can't come apart. Now we can snap our data link connector back into place and reinstall our lower dash panel and we'll put our last 2 screws in. Now our last step's going to be attach our fuse holder. Now we have the fuse out of it at the moment. We don't want to hook it up with the fuse intact, so we're going to loosen up our battery hold down using a 10 millimeter socket. Now the bolt on this does not come out, so what we're going to do is we're just going to go ahead and cut a groove in here and we're going to slide it around the outside of our bolt and put it back on, so we'll cut a little notch and that'll allow us to slip it down behind and tighten it back up. We'll put a little notch in the door there so it'll close down tight and now we'll be ready to set our fuse into place. Press it into position and snap on our weather tight cap. Now we're just going to take another zip tie and secure our wires to kind of clean it up. Now your reed switch that's mounted on our cylinder is going to come preset and it should be just about right when you get it, but if you want to test it, you can push down a little bit on your pedal, pull back on the cylinder, and you'll see your lights come on letting you know the switch is working and when you release it, the light's going to go off. If it's not adjusted proper, you can just loosen up the stud screw on this band on the outside and slide your reed switch back and forth. That's going to be it for our look and the install of the SMI Second Vehicle Kit for the Air Force One Supplemental Braking System, part #SM99209 on our 2013 Cadillac SRX.


Info for this part was:

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