bing tracking image

SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2017 GMC Acadia

content loading

Customers compare SM99251 to these similar products

Products Featured in this Video

How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2017 GMC Acadia

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 GMC Acadia we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Proportional Braking System, part number SM99251. Our SMI Stay-IN-Play Supplemental Braking System is going to provide a proportional braking force. As I apply the brakes, it will apply the same amount of braking force in our towed vehicle.Now since this system is proportional, I do have the brakes applied, and you notice that there's no lights showing on the bottom. Because it's proportional, you have to be over 20 miles an hour for it to apply the brakes in the towed vehicle.To start our install, we want to come inside the vehicle, and we need to find a place to mount our G-Force box. Now you want to make sure that the SMI is facing the passenger side. If you're not going to mount on the passenger side, its got to face that way.

Typically, if you're going to mount it on the driver side, right here on this kick panel is a good place to put it.Before I mount that, now that we've found our spot, we have a bundle of wire here that needs to go to the engine compartment of the vehicle. We also have an air line tube that needs to go through. So, there's a grommet up underneath the dash that has a bundle of wire already running through it from the factory. We're going to run the tube first. Then what I'm going to do to get the rest of my wire out because I have ...

Take my wires, I'm going to tape them around my tube. Electrical tape. Now we pull our air line tube through. You can see right here all of our wire. You can see we pulled our wires through, and we've got just enough to mount this here.

Our wires are out of the way. We'll go ahead and screw it into our kick panel.Next, we want to do is we want to find a good place to mount our operating unit underneath the hood of our vehicle in our engine compartment. As you can see here, there's not a whole lot of space to put this where this is going to fit. You want to make sure it's solid, so right here along this edge it's not going to get in the way of anything. All of our wires are going to be clear, and our hoses will be clear.

I'm going to mark these two holes with a paint marker. Now I'm going to pre-drill those holes with the self-tapping screws.Your blue and your brown wire, those are going to go to your breakaway switch on the front of your vehicle. We're going to wrap them underneath here. We're just going to leave our blue and our brown wire hanging out here for a little bit. We're going to come back to the top and do a little wiring up there. We're going to take our black and red wire from our box inside and the red and black wire from our operating unit. We're going to put them together. Now, these heat shrink butt connectors don't come in your kit. We're replacing them with the ones that do. You can find these on if you would like to use them. I would suggest it because these are going to be living outside of the vehicle. These will make it better for the wire connections, so they don't corrode.Now we'll do the same thing for our red wires. Now with our remaining wires, our white, our yellow, and our green, we're going to follow the same path underneath, and we're going to connect them to our four pole wiring. Now what we need to do is separate these. You want to make sure that you're not going to cut the wire itself.First, we're going to connect our green wire. Go ahead and split it. We're going to take a heat shrink butt connector. Again, these don't come in your kit, but you can find them on We're going to double up this side like this. Only because this butt connector's a little bigger and we're going to be putting two wires in on that side. We're going to take these two, wrap them together, into the other end of our butt connector. Then we're going to repeat that same thing with the yellow wire. The brown wire we're not going to be tapping into.Our white wire is going to be just a little bit different. We're going to cut it in half and splice both sides here. Then we take our white wire and cut it to length. We're going to hold onto this extra piece here for just a second. I'll show you why. We're actually going to use it for a ground. Now we can put a ring terminal on this end, and you run it through the body.Next thing we're going to do is we're going to mount our breakaway switch. It mounts to this bracket right here. We're going to take our bolt that comes with our kit, and you're going to have a flat washer and a lock nut. Put our flat washer on the bottom and followed by a lock nut.We're going to route our orange and black wire up to our other bundle. We're going to route our blue wire down to our unit here, our breakaway switch. We'll feed our blue wire back here. Now I'm going to zip tie all this to this existing wiring here. Take our orange and black wire here at the top, and we'll strip it. Then our brown wire coming from our operator unit or operating unit. You're going to want to hold onto your excess brown wire. I'll show you why here in just a second. That's the end of our brown wire. We're going to extend it because our orange and black wire wasn't long enough to come all the way up where we need it to go.From here we're going to be connecting our fuse holder. You want to make sure that the fuse is not in the holder. Take your fuse holder, cut it in half, butt connector here. Then on the other end the fuse holder. Then take our ring terminal, put it on the end of our fuse holder that we're going to be connecting to the battery. Next, you're going to connect it right here. Now we'll heat shrink the butt connectors that's running to our battery first. That'sI'm just going to take some of the wire loom. Just going to feed it on one of our connections here. Now we'll go ahead, and heat shrink all the rest of our connections. I'm going to take some more wire loom. Just going to kind of clean these wires up a little bit, so it looks a little nicer. Now I'm going to take my brown wire. I already have a brown wire right here connected to the body. I think I can get that to go over there, so I'm going to zip tie right here on this beam. Just like that.My air line tube that I have running from inside, it's going to have to be connected into our operation unit. Again, I think we're going to route it the same place we did all of our wire. It's going to be out of the way. It's not going to get hit with anything, snagged on anything. Right around. It's about right there. You want to make sure you use an air line tube cutter. You can find them on our website, part number AL10530. You don't want to use a knife, and you don't want to use a pair of pliers. You could use a pair of wire cutters. What it does is it pinches the end of the hose, and you will possibly have a leak. You just put it into the little corner there like that. You're just going to push it in till you hear it snap. Give it a little tug, make sure it's in there.Next we're going to do our air line hose. First, we need to find our line that's running to our brake booster, which is going to be this line here. Let me see here. It's going to be this one here. Before cutting into that, you need to get your rubber hose that comes in your kit. We're going to cut three two-inch lengths of hose. You can do this with just a razor knife.Next, we're going to take some soapy water. You're going to have your check valve. Two different colored ends. You're going to spray the end that is the clear color or the green. Insert it into the hose. Spraying it with some soapy water makes it slide in a little bit easier. On the other end, I'm going to put one end of the T. On the other end of the T I'm going to put another piece of hose. Then the other end of the check valve I'm going to put our other piece of hose. It's going to look like that.Next thing we're going to do, you can see here, I just kind of laid this in place over the hose to get us an idea of where we want to run our hose from our operation unit. I think this is going to be the best place. It's going to give us a straight shot back behind our battery. We can route it around, and it'll give us a straight shot right to our operating unit here.Now I'm going to cut the zip tie right here. What I'm going to do is I'm going to take a paint marker. I'm just going to mark . You don't want to mark at the end of the hose. You're going to mark about halfway in on each side because you got to keep in mind when you cut this, this part of this has to slide inside of this hose on each end. This hose is taking up this gap. You cut it too short you may not have enough to get it in.Now we're going to take a hose cutter. Now, this hose is actually a plastic hard line. It's going to be kind of hard to see. A lot of these are rubber. This one's a hard plastic or hard rubber line. You want to make sure when you're cutting it you don't pinch it or crimp it together. It's like a vacuum line that we put on the unit here. You want to make sure you get a straight cut.Next, we got two rose clamps that come in our kit. You're going to slide them over your plastic line you just cut. Then what you're going to do is you're going to take your hose, when you made your T . I suggest spraying a little bit of soapy water inside each end. You want to make sure that the back end of the check valve is going toward the engine block. You want to slide it over this hose. Take our hose clamp, and we're going to put it over the two ends that are together. Then we're going to do the same thing on the other end.Now the zip tie that we cut, this is actually all one piece, but if you look at the end here, you take another zip tie, you can reuse this. Put it back into its spot there. You can re-zip tie the hose back to the . everything that's inaudible 00:18:21. Now from here connect our new hose. Spray some soapy water on the end of the T. Like that. Then we have our hose right around, underneath our cables here. Right here. Now we're just going to cut it to fit on the end of our operation unit.This is an indicator light that's going to come with your kit. Normally, this would mount on the backside of your mirror of your towed vehicle. It would hook to the cold side of your brake light switch. However, in this application it is not possible, so we're not going to be using this light. The customer purchased the SMI Wireless Coachlink, which is going to put an indicator light inside of his RV. Normally, your red wire would hook into the cold side of your brake light switch, however, with this application that's not possible so you would have to get a stop light switch.In your kit, you're going to get the bracket, your switch, and some wiring. In order to mount this bracket what you're going to do is you're going to find the brake pedal. You're going to follow the arm up then right, and to the front of it, there's a plate. There's going to be a couple holes, existing holes in it. You're going to match this hole on the straight side with the hole, when this lines up, with the brake arm. Something like this. Then your switch is going to sit in like this.The brake light switch you're going to have one bolt or one nut on the brake light switch, a star washer, and a large nut. The star washer and large nut, you do remove. We're going to put this on first. I'm going to go as far up as I can because I don't know how much distance I'm going to need between this plunger and the brake pedal arm. Put this on, and then we can adjust how much we need as we get our bracket mounted. I'm taking an 11-millimeter wrench, tighten it up.Once you get it set in the right area, so the plunger's going to work correctly, you're going to take 11/16ths wrench around the back nut and a 9/16ths and put it on the front, and tighten them together. Just keep in mind your red wire is going to run up and be fused to the battery. Now they give you an option to fuse it to the fuse panel, however, you want to make sure you read your owners manual if you're going to do that because the fuse you pull out may run some extra stuff in your electrical system. If you pull it out, it mess it up. I'm not going to do that. I'm going to go straight to the battery. I'm just going to put a fuse in there.What we're going to do is we're going to strip back our red wire. We're going to put one of our butt connectors that comes in our kit. Then we're going to connect our green wire to our other one. Perfect. We're going to route the red wire out to our battery. Now we're going to add a fuse holder. That green wire is going to be the cold side that we're going to hook our SMI Wireless Coachlink into.Now we need to find a good place to mount our transmitter box. Typically, right up on the driver's side, right up at the very top up here out the way is usually one of the best spots. First, we need to take some alcohol, and we need to clean this spot really good. Then we're going to take our hook and loop. Attach one side to our transmitter box. Make sure it's stuck on there good. Take the green wire, just need to pull it tight. I'm going to route it because we have our transmitter box up inside there. We're going to be able to hide most of our wire back behind here up in front of the gas pedal. I'm going to route this . Try and route it up and over to the back side of that so when I tuck them back in there it's not hanging this way. Going to add butt connector that comes in your kit. Red wire in the other end of our nut, and our white wire we're going to add a ring terminal for our ground.Then we need to find a good place to mount our ground wire. Now right back here behind the gas pedal, you can peel the carpet back, you have plenty of metal to tie into. Now the reason I'm putting it here is because all of my wires I'm going to tuck in right behind this panel. We take the self-tightening screw and an extension because it's behind the pedal. Take all my extra wire here and bundle it up as best I can. Wire right behind the panel.Now we need to find a place to mount our actuator. It's going to mount on our brake pedal arm. You want to take two of our nuts off here. What we're going to do is we're going to briefly put these in. You just want them in there where we can adjust this, however, we need to. Until we get it exactly where we want it. I'll explain here in just a second.This wire here needs to mount so that the actuator when the brake pedal is depressed that the wire is pulling straight. So, right in the corner of the carpet here there's a little tab that's holding the carpet on. We're going to peel this back. Where it's mounted, you go straight back on the line straight out the back of it and go up one inch. If your brake pedal is depressed, it's going to pull straight back to that mount. Now what I'm going to have to do is I'm going to have to cut away this insulation here to mount this.Once you find your spot where you're going to mount it, we're going to adjust the tension on our cable. Make sure that this is . Make sure that these bolts are all the way against the arm here. When you find your spot where your pedal when it is depressed, is going to go straight back. Then what we're going to do is on the backside here, there's an Allen head. It's going to be a number four Allen head screw. Take an Allen wrench, and we're going to tighten it so that wire doesn't move. Other side of this Allen head screw has teeth on it which kind of grip this wire. What you don't want to do is you don't want to over tighten it. What it's going to do is it's going to splinter that wire, and it's going to make it weak. Hand tighten it as much as you can. I would suggest not taking a wrench to it.Even if you have a little bit of play in your wire itself, that's okay because was can adjust it from here. Now I take a self-tightening screw . We'll put our carpet back in place here. Put the tab in. We're going to take a tube cutter. Give us a little extra. Put it in till you hear it click. Now we tighten down actuator. We get a 3/8ths wrench or socket. Either one.Now that we have everything running to a ground that we need, we can put this back into place. Take a 10-millimeter socket. Reinstall our screw or bolt. I'm not going to tighten this too tight because it is plastic. It's to hold it in place. Next, we're going to take a half inch socket. We're going to take this nut off on the positive side of our battery so we can mount our fuse holder. Once you have that installed, you can put in your fuse. You get that installed, you can put in your stop light switch fuse. I'm just going to put a little wire loom on over my four pole connections. Just kind of hide the wires back instead the grill here.Next what we're going to do is right here on the top there's a little Phillips head screw. You're going to remove that. We're going to set that aside. You're going to open the lid. Take a screwdriver and just kind of push on the back here. It's going to fall out. Next, we're going to separate our wire here. Now you can see how our wires, green, yellow, brown, white onto a plug. Make sure the screw's facing up. The way you're going to hook this up is green's going to be the top right. Yellow's going to be the top left. Brown's going to be the bottom right. White's going to be the bottom left. Get that inside. Make sure that your screw is connecting with the wires only so you don't have any other issues. Got your green. Pull our sleeve back over the top here. Pull this back into place. Make sure that your screw is facing up. You can see it right there at the top. Install our screw. I'm going to shoot some dialectic grease down inside here. We'll take a 5/16th socket, and we'll put in our two self-tapping screws.That'll do it for the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Proportional Braking System, part number SM99251 on our 2017 GMC Acadia.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Jared G
Test Fit:
Jared G
Employee Matthew S
Test Fit:
Matthew S
Employee Andrew S
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B
Employee Zack K
Video Edited:
Zack K
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video Edited:
Zach D
Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Andrew L
Video by:
Andrew L
Employee Alan C
Video by:
Alan C
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob H
Video by:
Jacob H
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D

At we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.