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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2014 Ford Fiesta

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2014 Ford Fiesta


Today, in our 2014 Ford Fiesta, we'll be installing the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System, part number SM99251. To begin our install, we'll first going to go ahead and pop the hood, find a suitable mounting location for the operating unit. Now, for this application, you can see there's plenty of distance between the top of the engine and the bottom of the front cowling. What we're going to do is set the box in position under here, mark the attachment points, drill it out. Then, we'll remove the fasteners for the plastic cover, install our hardware, and then secure the box into place. Now, in cases where you're unable to mark the mounting locations, hold the box in place and just run your drill bit into the attachment point. Now that we have the attachment points drilled out, we'll go ahead and remove the clips here along the front of the cowling.

We don't need to remove them all, just enough that we can pull it down to get our hardware in place. To secure the box, we're going to have a bolt and flat washer going down through the mounting location and then secure it with a block nut. With the bolts in place, we're going to install the box and the nuts. Once we get our fasteners installed finger-tight, we'll go ahead and run them down. Once we have the box installed and secured, we'll go ahead and put the manufacturer's clips holding the cowling back in position. Next, we're going to move to the interior of the vehicle where we're going to mount the G-Force controller.

We'll the use screws provided with the install kit to secure it at the back and at the front. The box must be located inside the vehicle and protected from the outside weather as it's not sealed. It also must face in this direction with the toggle switch facing the rear of the vehicle and the label facing the passenger side of the vehicle. We're going to mount it here on the lower kick panel just below the hood release latch. It's necessary to mount it level at this time.

We'll make the necessary adjustments after the install is complete. Next, we'll need to route the wiring harness from the G-Force controller out underneath the hood. In this application, you can see the 3 male studs that come through the firewall that was set up for a manual transmission clutch pedal. We're going to go ahead and remove the installation here because behind it is a manufacturer's grommet that we can utilize to run our wiring harness through. Once we expose the grommet, we'll go ahead and use out utility knife to cut a large enough slit in it to route our wiring harness through it. Once you have it cut out, you can even pull the grommet out to make it easier to route through. Now, before I put my wires through the grommet, I'm going to go ahead and use some of the wire loom provided with the install kit to put around the wiring to clean up the install look and help pull our wires together as they route through the firewall.

We'll go ahead and take the wire loom, just set it in position, getting an idea of how much we'll need, and then cut it off from the provider roll from the install kit. Then, I'll go ahead and take it and slide it over the end of all the wires. Once we have them out the other side, well just go ahead and slide our wire loom into place. Then, we'll go ahead and feed our wire through the grommet. Next, I'll go ahead and feed the wire through the firewall and into the engine compartment. Once we have our wiring in place, we'll just re-install the grommet. Next, we need to install the brake actuator and anchor. The anchor will get attached to the firewall or floor board and the clamp here for the actuator will go around the brake pedal arm. We're going to go ahead and remove the nuts, the brake actuator studs, put our clamp into position and then re-install the nuts and get it temporarily secured in place. Notice you've tightened down the fasteners for the clamp on the actuator to do it evenly. Here at the back of the actuator is the air valve that will ultimately get an air line installed into it, an air line coming from the control unit. Out the front of the actuator is our cable and off the cable is the anchor. As we position the clamp, an actuator is designed so that the cable comes straight out and back as possible to get as much pedal travel as possible when it's in use. Because of where the steering shaft comes down directly behind the brake pedal, we're going to go slightly to the driver side and just below center of the steering shaft grommet. We'll need to cut away the carpeting and installation here on the firewall so we have a direct fastening point for our anchor through the firewall. Using a self-tapping screw, we're going to go ahead and mount the actuator to the firewall. As we adjust the cable, we'll run about a quarter inch of free play in it so that the pedal's not too tight. We'll go ahead and leave this for now. After we use it a couple of times, we'll double check it. Next, we'll go ahead and route the air line for our actuator. First, I'm going to take the air line, route it through the grommet, pull the excess into the engine compartment. Now with our air line routed, we're going to go ahead and trim off the excess here before we install it into the actuator. We're going to use our Air Lift air hose cutter, part number AL10530. The cutter will allow us to get a clean square cut on the air line before we install it into the valve for the actuator. Line the air line up with the valve, press it in firmly and pull back to lock it in place. With the actuator and air line installed and secured, we'll now move underneath the hood. Next, we're going to move to the front of the vehicle to install our brake switch. To get an access behind the front fascia, we're going to remove the lower fascia piece and air dam. There are multiple fasteners that will need to be removed. Now, with the lower fascia out, we're then get an access here to the core support and the base plate. The recommendation is to attach it to the core support in case the base plate comes off, the breakaway switch will be attached to something different and activate in that case of an emergency breakaway. In order to get our bracket and brake switch in place, we're going to remove this section of the front fascia. We'll use our rotary cut up tool to do so. Now, to secure the brake switch, we're just going to use a simple L-bracket, its going to get bolted to the core support and then our brake switch to the bracket. We're going to start by drilling a mounting hole for our bracket. We'll use the bolt and flat washer to go through the core support, then take our bracket, put it under our bolt, tighten it down with a flange nut. Once we have our L-bracket secured, we'll take the brake switch, feed it into position using the bolt and flat washer, going down through the switch, through our bracket, install a second flat washer and then the nylon lock nut. Now with our switch mounted, we'll need to take the 2 black wires coming from the brake switch and route them up to the top of the engine compartment. We're also going to need to access the 4-pole, which is basically the 3 wires that comes from the rear of the vehicle to operate the turn, running light, and brake signal circuit, to the top of the engine to connect to their new SMI supplemental braking system. I'll go ahead and cut the zip ties as necessary and route both our brake switch and taillight signal wiring to the top of the engine compartment. To help to get our wires in place, we're going to use a pole wire. Pole wire can be a stiff piece of wire or in this case, we're going to use a piece of air line. We'll route the pole wire into place first and then well take our brake switch wire and taillight signal wire, tape it to the pole wire to pull it to the top of the engine. Now it's through the top of the engine bay and pull our wire into position. Once we get our wire pulled up into place, we'll go ahead and remove the pole wire. Next, we're going to install the large vacuum line by connecting it in with the manufacturer's vacuum line that goes to the brake booster. We follow the hard plastic line that goes down into the brake booster. We'll need to connect the large line or supply line to our control box. First, we're going to cut out a section here of the hard line. We'll need to cut out a section large enough that we can install a check valve and T. Using my tubing cutter and keeping enough straightaway that we can get a piece of hose on to this hard plastic line, I'll make my first cut. Release the clamp here holding it. Again, make sure I have enough straightaway that I can install a hose on to the line if necessary. Now, on each side where we've cut out the plastic line, we're going to have a hose clamp that will secure the hose to the plastic line. I'm going to go ahead and slide them into place now so we don't forget them later. Now, with the hose clamps in place, we'll start by installing the check valve. The check valve has 2 colors; black and green. The black side of the check valve will face the engine, green side will go towards the brake booster. We'll cut off a small section here of the end of our vacuum hose that goes to the control unit. We'll go ahead and cut just a small section off large enough to fit over the hard plastic line and to put our check valve in place. Now, to make it easier to get on to the hard plastic line and put our check valve in position, we're going to spray just a little bit of a spray lubricant into the hose. I'll go ahead and take the check valve, slide the hose on, the other end of our hose, on to the hard plastic line. Now, with that done, we'll create 2 more short pieces of hose. One will go on the hard plastic line to the other side. The other will go on to the other side of our check valve. In between those 2 hoses will be our T. I'll go ahead and slide the ends of the hose on to the T first and then we'll put the hoses on to the vehicle by sliding one side here on to the plastic line and the other side on to the check valve. Before I put in my clamp, we'll go ahead and take the vacuum line from the control box, mark the length and cut off the excess. We hit that with just a little bit of the spray, slide it on to the T. Now we'll go ahead and use our clamps to secure the rubber hose to the hard plastic line. Be careful not to overtighten the hose clamp. With the vacuum hose installed, we'll go ahead and re-secure it back into this whole valve. Next, we're going to take the vacuum line that we ran off the brake actuator, route it over to the control unit and cut off the excess using our tubing cutter. I'll route it into position and install in into the box. Since I got my line a little closer to the actual route, I see that I can trim a little more off. I line it up with the port, press it firmly into position, and pull back to lock it in place. Next, we'll take some of the remaining wire loom from our install kit, cut off a section, protect the wiring the comes out of the box till it gets over here to the other wiring harness. Easiest way to get our wire loom in place is just to feed the wires through it, out the other side, and then slide it up the harness. Then, we'll take the remaining wire loom and feed it over all of our wires. To get them fed through the loom with so many, we're going to tape up the end to make it a little easier. Once I've got the loom in place at this point, let me go ahead and tape it up to hold it in position. Take the white wire, we're going to pull it back out of the loom to the Y here where we have the 2 harnesses coming together, route it over to the negative battery post where we can mark the length, cut it off, strip it back, and add a ring terminal to attach it to the negative battery post. You'll notice that the negative battery cable is not attached to the negative battery post. When the vehicle is being towed for this application, it is attached which is why it required that we attach the ground directly to the negative battery post. Now, with the ground wire connected, I'm going to go ahead and secure my wiring loom as it routes here towards the front of the vehicle. Because the battery is disconnected when being towed, we cannot connect directly to the brake pedal/brake switch. We'll need to add a wire, route it through the engine compartment, and ultimately connect it here to the blue wire for the breakaway switch. This will give the indicator light the feed it needs to trigger when the brake pedal is suppressed. Before we make any connections, we're going to go ahead and get our wire routed in to the engine compartment. I'll go inside, route it through our grommet and up into the engine compartment. Now, for the extra wire, we'll run a white wire that will go from the cabin of the vehicle and ultimately be connected to the indicator light. Here under the hood, it'll get connected to our blue wire, that will get connected to one of the black wires coming from the breakaway switch. Now, to make this connection, I'm going to go ahead and cut off the excess from the wires, strip them back, and use a butt connector to connect the 3. Now, because we're connecting 3 wires on this application, we're going to use a larger butt connector to compensate. Now we have the 3 wires that will get connected to the 2 black wires from the breakaway switch, we'll take the blue and the white, twist them together and I'll use the yellow butt connector to secure the 2. On the brown wire side, we'll use the blue butt connector provided with the install kit. Now, for the brown wire, we're also going to go ahead and take the leftover piece that we just trimmed off, strip it back, and twist the 2 together, and again, use the yellow butt connector to secure the 2. The second wire that we're adding will get run to the positive battery post. This will provide power to our control unit. Now, the other end of our 2 butt connectors will get attached to 2 black wires that come from the breakaway switch, so we can go ahead and strip them back and add them now. Again, it doesn't matter which black wire goes to which set because it just closes the loop on the breakaway switch. Brown wire will route over here to the positive battery post. We'll mark our length, cut off the excess, and strip it back. Now that weve got the brown wire added here, that'll get ultimately run to the positive battery post, we can go ahead and prep our inline fuse holder. To do that, we're going to cut the fuse holder loop in half, strip back both sides. One side we'll add a ring terminal that will attach to the positive battery post and the other side of our fuse holder, we'll get a butt connector and attach it to the brown wire. Now well go ahead and cut the excess length off from our brown wire, strip it back, and add it into the butt connector. Now, we'll go ahead and remove the stud from the positive battery post, install our ring terminal, but we will not install the fuse into the fuse holder this time. Once we install our ring terminal, we'll re-install the nut and tighten it down. Now with those connections made and secured, we'll go ahead move on the next connection which will be the black wire from the G-Force control unit to the control unit here under the hood. We'll just match them color for color, black to black. We'll go ahead and cut off the excess, strip back both side and use the butt connector provided to secure the 2. We'll now go ahead and repeat the same process with the 2 red wires. Now, the final 2 remaining wires that come from the G-Force control unit is the yellow and green which will match up with the yellow and green color for color for the taillight signal circuit. For this application, we're also going to go ahead and cut off the excess wiring here from the taillight signal circuit. Once I cut off the excess, I'll then go ahead and peel the wires back and strip them back. Now, supplied with the install kit are also quick splice connectors that can be used to secure the green wires together, but since we we're removing the excess wiring, it only made sense to go ahead and cut it all out and use the butt connectors. On the brown wire, we're simply stripping it back and using a butt connector to reconnect the wire back together after removing the excess. Next, we'll take the yellow wire coming from our G-Force control unit and cut the length. Strip them back and add them to the butt connectors color for color. Now, with all our connections made, we're going to go ahead and wrap them up with some black electrical tape. This will help the bundle or wires and keep the connection points clean from dirt, dust, debris and moisture. Next, we'll go ahead and put our fuse into the fuse holder. We'll be installing the 20 Amp fuse provided with the install kit. Put my cap on the fuse holder and then we'll cut the excess from the zip ties to clean up the install look. We're completed here in the engine compartment, we need to move back to the cabin of the vehicle and install our wiring and the indicator light. Next, we'll create a lead and install the monitor light. We'll use the 2-pole harness provided with the install kit to create the lead and then we'll install the monitoring light using the hook and loop fastener, and attach it to the front side of the rear view mirror. To make our connection, we're going to use the black wire here from the G-Force control unit. To make that connection, we'll use the spade terminal quick connect to go around the black wire and get crimped into place. Once we've got it squeezed into position, the quick connect will now line up with the spade terminal provided. Next, let's go ahead and start preparing the 2-pole lead. The 2-pole lead will be made out of this 2-pole loop harness. To make the lead, one end is going to get cut short, the other will be attached to the indicator light wiring. We'll go ahead and cut this side short leaving just a pigtail here underneath the dash to connect to when in use. First we'll go ahead and cut the wire. We'll strip back both sides leaving one side for the spade connector and the other side will connect to the white wire which we added because we've got the cold side parking brake switch on this application, so the white wire runs through the blue wire from the control unit underneath the hood. Now with both sides stripped back, our brown wire will get the spade connector that will be attached to our quick connector that we've already installed on the black wire that comes out of the G-Force control unit. Our red wire will get butt connected here to the white wire. I'll go ahead and mark my wire and cut it to length. We'll go ahead and strip it back, well take the pigtail and add a butt connector. Next, we'll take the wire loom provided with the install kit, cut off a few inches and put it over our pigtail to clean up our install look. With that done, I'm going to take the butt connector, slide the white wire into the butt connector and crimp it down. We'll go ahead and put our spade terminal into the quick connect we installed onto the black wire. Once we have our 2-pole pigtail created installed, well go ahead and secure the wiring. Next, we'll take our light and harness and the other half of our 2-pole loop and create a 2-pole connector for our indicator light. First, I'm going to go ahead and trim off some of the excess and I'm going to offset my connection, strip back both sides. Now with our wire stripped back, we'll go ahead and add 2 butt connectors. Then we'll take the butt connectors, then the other side of our butt connectors will secure the indicator light wiring. We'll match color for color here with the red and then we'll go brown to black. Once we have that connection made, we can go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape. With the new indicator light wire secured, we're going to go ahead and install the remaining portion of the wire loom provided. Now, to mount the monitor light, one side of our hook and loop fastener is secured to the light, the other side, we're going to secure here to the front side of the mirror. To attach it, we'll remove the hook and loop fastener in the 2-way adhesive, put the adhesive on to the mirror and then re-attach our hook and loop fastener. Once we have the light in place, we'll just route the wiring over the top of the steering column, take the 2-pole plug and attach it here to the 2-pole plug we created down here next to the G-Force control unit. Now the monitor light is installed. We're now ready to put the underbody fascia back on, but we'll need to make a small notch in it to compensate for our L-bracket for the breakaway switch L-bracket. Simply cut out a little notch to allow for the fit around it. To cut it out, we're just going to use our rotary tool. Now with that done, we'll go ahead and re-install the underbody fascia. We're now ready to do the adjustment to the G-Force controller. We've gone ahead and hooked the vehicle up to the tow vehicle, we've disconnected the battery, we'll turn our toggle switch into the on position. To make the adjustment, we'll loosen the knob, we'll have the tow vehicle started and press in the brake. This will activate the actuator. Pressing on the pedal, we'll then take the knob and slowly rotate it up until the actuator stop operating. Then, we'll go an additional 16th of an inch and lock it down. Now with our adjustment done, we're ready to hit the road. That does it for the install and set up of our SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Brake System, part number SM99251 on the 2014 Ford Fiesta. .


Questions and Comments about this Video


Tom H.
Is there a wiring diagram to install The led light that illuminates when the brakes are activated can be routed to the RV dash so it can be monitored?
Etrailer Expert
Reply from Rachael H.

The installation of the monitor light can be found on page 8 of this copy of the installation insturctions for the braking system.

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