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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2014 Honda CR-V

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2014 Honda CR-V


Today on this 2014 Honda CRV we're going to show you this SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System part number SM99251. This is what the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO looks like when it's installed in the vehicle. As you can see you really can't see much at all which is a good thing so you don't have to worry about putting the bulky box between your brake pedal and your seat. Basically put your car in tow mode, hook it up to your RV and you're good to go. Let's go ahead and take a closer look at our components. Our first component is actually the part that's doing all the work, it's this air cylinder right here.

What happens is when it's activated this air cylinder will work and pull the pedal down. The brains of the situation is over here on our G Force 2 Controller. It's not our G Force 2 Controller, it's the sensor that knows how hard you're hitting your brakes by inertia. Then it sends out the same amount of power toward your brake power going by that. This only works about 20MPH and above. This knob here adjusts the aggressiveness of the brakes.

What it does is down is more aggressive and up is less aggressive. It also has an on/off switch right here for when you're in tow mode and not in tow mode. This is our indicator cord, this actually goes up to the light that you can see from the rear view camera of your RV. When you're not using it you just simply unplug it. That's about the only thing you really have to install, the rest of this cord can stay in your glove box when it's not used.

We'll go underneath the hood and you can see this box right here, this is what powers the system. Inside this little box here has a compressor that does all the work. It has a small air line that goes out to the air cylinder that we saw on our brake pedal, has a larger vacuum line so works with vacuum on the brakes in the car as well and also its wiring harness. Next we'll uncover the 3 wiring points that are spliced into the vehicle. The first one is the mucho splice, basically it's our power supply from our battery. The next point where it splices in is the vacuum line connection.

We install T right here. Our third splice is a cold sided brake switch back underneath the vehicle. Right now it's hidden from view after it's installed. That's the only real 3 permanent attachments to the vehicle aside from the mechanical fastenings of the air cylinder, the G Force 2 Controller, and the operating unit underneath the hood. Next we'll go ahead and show you how to install. To start off our install we're going to work with our operating unit first. What we're going to do is actually put ours on this edge right here pointing down in front of the engine. There's just enough clearance and it's pretty far away from the exhaust so we should be okay. We're going to attach to the top of the sheet metal right here and we can take this edge right now that's vertical and we're just going to bend it over. This is designed to be moved around as needed to attach. To bend this you can use some vice grips or pliers, just get a good grip on it and you can bend this down as needed. I'm going to put mine in a vice so I can grab a whole section at a time and bend it over. If you can try to bend this flange just a little bit past vertical where it comes past this way so when it sits inside it will want to tilt toward the front. Then we'll go ahead and attach it using some self tapping screws that are number 10 and use a 5/16 nut driver. The fasteners we're using do not come with the kit. One final check for clearances and adjust if necessary. Next we'll go ahead and move onto our wires and we're just going to go ahead and use some of the provided loom that comes with it to help keep these wires together and becoming an unraveled mess. To install loom material we'll just pull the wires gently tight and we'll just snap the loom material on it and just push it forward. Chances are we might not need to use this entire length of wire or the loom material, but we'll just use it just to help keep things together for now. We'll go ahead and move inside the vehicle and we can install your next component which would be the G Force Controller 2. This controller is actually what does all the work to determine how hard the brakes are being applied on the vehicle. When you slow down there's a sensor inside here that can tell how hard you're brakeing and sends out power in proportion. A couple stipulations, this has to go towards the back of the vehicle and this has to be facing towards the passenger's side. This also has to be level. Fortunately for us we've got a perfect location right here. Just make sure you can put it as far back as you can so you can use both mounting holes here and here and we can clear the parking brake pedal. It comes with 2 sheet metal screws to attach it. Might want to feel behind the plastic to make sure there's nothing sensitive behind there. It's a good idea to get one started and we can move it up and down as needed to get it level. We're just basically going to follow the same edge on the top of the kick panel here. Once we satisfied the placement we'll go ahead and install the second screw. Next we'll go ahead and work with the coach notification light. This is the indicator that you see on your towed vehicle behind the RV. They'll be a light that comes on that you can see through your rear view camera on your RV to tel you that the brakes are working on the CRV. All the parts we needed are in a cosh notification bags. We'll take it out of the bag and start putting it together. We'll just go ahead and work with one part at a time, let's just get some of our extras out of the way. This loop right here you need to cut in half. This is the light itself that you'll see from your RV. Let's get the ends of our wire ready. Typically it's just a little bit different end where it's just basically the cylinder coming out, but this is a little bit of a manufacturer's variation. What happens is we have to use our butt connectors to go make our connection. In this case they don't quite look right, but all we got to do is just cut off the bulky part. Just make sure your metal ends are still crimped onto the end of the wires and we can go ahead and put on our butt connectors. Next we'll go ahead and match up our wires to the right side of the plug. We want to match up our red wire to the red wire that has exposed plug which would be this one here. Let's go ahead and move this one out of our way and we'll go ahead and connect our wires up. Red to red. Then black to brown. Let's go ahead and put some electric tape around it since they may be a little bit on the delicate site. We'll go ahead and work with the light which all we've got to do is add the hook and loop fastener to the back of it. Let's take one side and attach it. We'll go ahead and trim off some of our excess next. Let's go ahead and add our loom material to our 2 wires here help bundle them together. May help to have an extra set of hands help hold the other end to keep it tight. We'll save our other half for the other half of our wire connection. Let's g ahead and install the permanent section of our indicator light. We're going to use the end of the 2 wires here. This needs to have some accessibility to it when it's installed. We're actually going to put it behind the lever here forward tilt steering. We're going to route our wires over top here. Let's push it back for now. There's really not much to secure it so all I'm going to do is just drill a very small hole right here to use a very small zip tie. This zip tie doesn't come with it, I'm just using something I have smaller. You could use one of the zip ties that does come with the kit. However, with wiring you tend to use up a lot of zip ties so it wouldn't be a bad idea to get some extras. We'll go ahead and cut off our excess and work from our other end. To connect up our wires our red wire's got to go to the cold sided brake switch. That means when we hit the brake pedal power goes to it. To get access to that we need to take down this panel right here. There's a little fastener we just twist quarter turn and we take out the panel. This is the brake switch right here and the wire we found out that we need is the blue wire. We'll go ahead and demonstrate that. We'll take our ground, connect it to some sheet metal underneath, we'll go ahead and hook up to our blue wire. Let's go ahead and connect up to the blue wire with the red wire using provided quick splice connector. We have quick splice connector over the blue wire on one side and on the other side we'll go ahead and take our red wire and push it right next to it. Push it up as far as it can go. Make sure t goes past the metal clip. We'll squeeze the metal clip and that will make the connection between your 2 wires. Let's go ahead and double check it. Let's go ahead and check the red wire at the socket here. We're good to go with that wire, now we'll go ahead and deal with our brown wire. Let's go ahead and grab our bundle of wires for our G Force 2 Controller. We're going to peel out the black wire here and separate it out. We'll go ahead and pull out some extra length on it and go out to our brown wire. We'll use another quick splice connector to connect these 2 together. Let's go ahead and put our little cover back into place. Let's go ahead and leave that alone for now. Our next step is go ahead and pull those wires from the G Force 2 Controller from the inside to the outside. We're going to run them through this grommet right here. We're going to need to make a hole in the grommet so we can pull them through. Nothing high tech here we're just going to poke it with a screwdriver. Give it a few pokes. To run our wires through we're going to need a pull wire, and we're actually going to use the air line that has to be ran from the outside to the inside as well to do that. This is our length of air line tubing right here. This will eventually go to a cylinder that we mounted to our brake pedal. We're just going to put a crude point on it to help push it through the grommet. It may be a good idea to spray it down with some silicone spray as well to help run it through. Here's our air line tubing, I'll go ahead and pull out a pretty good chunk of it. Next we'll go ahead and route our wires from G Force 2 Controller. We'll tape to this wire here and then pull it back through. I'm going to go ahead and run my wires behind the pedals and such first. Let's go ahead and tape our wires to our air line tubing here. Stagger them a little bit make it easier to pull back through the grommet. May help to spray some lubricant on it to help pull it through the grommet. Let's go ahead and cut our wires free and well go ahead and pull our excess through. Let's go ahead and take a few moments to bundle up our wires. We'll pull a little bit of slack back in and we'll go ahead and zip tie our wires on. Cut off our tails and then we'll take our excess and we'll go ahead and hide it behind the carpeting, then we'll zip tie the rest to keep it away from our pedals. We'll go ahead and leave this alone for now and let's go ahead and work for our indicator light for a minute. Let's go ahead and just give it an initial run here, let's plug the 2 together enough to hold it. Then let's go ahead and find a location for this. Typically this is going to be installed in the front side of the rear view mirror. We'll clean off the back side of the mirror here and we'll take our other half of our hook and loop fastener and we'll attach it to our mirror. Once you know where we're going to have it sit we'll go ahead and remove the indicator light, we'll make sure that this side of the hook and loop fastener is secure. We'll put it back in its spot for now. Basically at this point we're done with our wiring on the inside of the vehicle. Let's go ahead and work with our air cylinder now and see how it works. This actually pushes on the brake pedal. Our air cylinder we'll mount in this position about right here. Generally you want at least 2 inches of clearance between the pedal and your cylinder. Remember, the higher you go up the less leverage it has on the pedal. Keep it as low as possible without interfering with your shoes. This plate will go onto it and we'll go ahead and thread on the hardware. We'll go ahead and put it roughly in the middle here on our pedal and we'll go ahead and tighten it down with a 3/8 socket. We're actually just going to snug it up to our hole's position for now and we'll do our final tightening later. This anchor right here will go against the firewall of the vehicle. We need to take out some of our slack a little bit and go ahead and go to the firewall. Just give us an idea for now of where it's going to sit. We need to go ahead and move the carpeting our of the way and then cut out the insulation right here. We'll go ahead and hold it straight back from the cylinder and see where we need to cut out the insulation. We'll also move our carpeting out of the way as well. Let's just cut up a big patch right here so you have plenty of room to work with. Using a sharp knife we'll go ahead and cut through the insulation. Let's go get it as close to our final spot. What we want to do is when the brake pedal gets depressed our cable will be in a straight line with it. Let's go ahead and remove a little bit more material on top and we'll go ahead and make our attachment. We'll go ahead and mark where we're going to drill our hole out. We'll drill a small pilot hole to verify there's nothing behind it. I'm also going to make some marks on the pedal and our brackets we know to put it back in the same spot. We'll just loosen up and move our air cylinder out of the way. Let's drill a small hole about an 1/8 of an inch. With a pilot hole drilled let's go ahead and loosen up our air cylinder, bring it back down to original marks. Snug it back up, just enough to hold it in place. We could do that by just using the socket here. Our anchor here that goes to the wall, we'll go ahead and adjust it. Just take it up the slack and I'll pull it until it touches the wall. Then we'll go ahead and tighten down this head screw. Again, finger tight for now. Then once you're satisfied with the distance we'll go ahead and tighten down for good. Let's go ahead and grip the whole cylinder with some pliers and we'll tighten it down. The idea is to tighten down the set screw on the cable. You just want to tighten down on the table you don't actually want to crush it. It's good to grip at the top to get a feel for it. You don't need all that much leverage. Let's go ahead and use provided self tapping screw to attach our anchor point to the wall. This is our fastener right here and your going to need a nut driver with a 3/8 inch head on it. We're going to need a long extension to work around our air cylinder. The sheet metal can be on the thin side in a lot of vehicles so just be careful as you run this down. You've got easy access to your outside. It's actually a better idea to just put in a conventional nut and bolt with a flat washer on your outside just get a little bit better holding power in case the sheet metal's not strong enough. We'll go back to our air cylinder, loosen it up just a smidge, just so we can move it around. We'll make our final minute adjustments. Basically what we want to aim for is the cable to have about a quarter to a half inch of play up and down. You can make your adjustments here and make sure when this is being pulled the cylinder is in a straight line with the anchor point. Also if you need to you can take this anchor point and rotate it or flip it over to give you more room as well. One you're satisfied with your placement we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Finger tight first, and then we'll tighten it down for good. To tighten it down all we actually need to do is if you just look for a gentle bow on this plate right here that will be tight enough. While we're here, let's go ahead and take our black air line we'll put a fresh end on it and we'll attach it to our air cylinder. To put a fresh end on our air line it's a good idea to have the right tool for this. We're going to use part number F9009 this is the Firestone Tubing Cutter. Let's put our tubing cutter on it, make sure it's as square as possible. That's all we need to put in your air cylinder. We'll go ahead and push it in a little bit until it stops and then push again and then it's fully seated. Any adjustments we need to do we can go ahead and just push in this little ring on top and we can pull it apart. We'll go ahead and take up some of our excess slack on our tubings. We want this to be going towards the top. We can push this back through the outside. With that, all of our connections are made inside the vehicle. It may be a good idea to run a zip tie to help guide your air line tubings because this will move a little bit when it's being worked. It may be tied up to any other wires and we'll go underneath the hood. Next up will be our breakaway switch we need to install on the vehicle. Sometimes, especially on our CRV here it's actually easier to install the breakaway switch while you're installing the base plate. You can see how we install the breakaway switch when we install part number RN-521567-5. Our end of our breakaway switch was attached to the sheet metal just below this radiator component right here. We just drilled a small hole and we just nut and bolt it using provider hardware it came with the switch. We used some loom material and just brought it up behind the grill and up towards the top. It's best to install this before you put your bumper cover back for good after installing the base plates. With our breakaway switch in place let's go ahead and start connecting wires. We'll start with our wires from the G Force 2 Controller. Of course we've been working with this bundle for a while now. Well go ahead and make it easy by separating out the wires that we need to work with. We're going to separate out our yellow and green wires and they'll match up color for color for the previously installed wiring harness for the vehicle. These wires are the wires that power the tail lights when it's hooked up to the RV. We'll do our easy connections first which will be color for color. Let's go ahead and take a moment to route our wires to see how much length we need and we'll go ahead and cut off our excess. We'll go ahead and separate the wires for the lights. We'll go ahead and use some quick splice connections for our wires. Green to green, and yellow to yellow. Next we're going to work for our ground wire. We'll cut off the excess and add one of the provided ring terminals. The thing about the ground here is that this has got to connect to the sheet metal and also for the ground for the wire harness for the lights. In that case our ground's right here. At this point we can go ahead and put all 3 together. Sometime you'll run into an instance where the ground wire for the towing lights isn't long enough so you may want to extend it like we did just come up here to have easy access to it for your supplemental breaking system that may need this. Our next wire from the G Force 2 Controller we'll work with is going to be our black wire. We'll route that over to the same area, we'll tuck our other wires down out of the way for now. Take our black wire here, this is going to connect to the black from our operating unit. That was the part that we installed at first. Let's get our wires out from there. We had them in a bundle so let's go ahead and pull out our black wire because we only need that for now. We'll cut off our excess and put those guys together. We'll use provided butt connector for that purpose. Set that guy down and out of the way. Our red wire from our G Force 2 Controller we'll do the same thing. We'll go ahead and peel our red wire from our operating unit. We'll go ahead and cut our wires to length and the same kind of connection. We're finished with all our wires from our G Force Controller. For our wires from our operating unit we've got 2 leftover. Let's go ahead and pull out the blue wire. The blue wire's actually going to hook up to one of our wires to our breakaway switch. The instructions show actually 2 black wires, but in our case it will actually be a blue and an orange wire with a black stripe. Honestly it doesn't matter for a switch it's just on and off, but we'll just go ahead and stay as close to color to color as possible. We'll hook up our blue to blue. We'll find a nice spot to connect our wires up. Let's just go ahead and route our wires back to the same general area and we'll make our connections. We're down to our last wire, our brown wire from our operating unit. This brown wire is going to connect up to the other side of or breakaway switch. It's going to be brown to our orange and with a black stripe. We'll go ahead and connect these 2 together using a butt connector. Then on the other side of our butt connector we're going install our fuse holder which will go to the positive side of our battery eventually. We'll go ahead and cut off our excess, follow the same theme, and we'll go ahead and twist these 2 together as tight as possible, cut off come excess, add another blue butt connector. It wouldn't be a bad idea to substitute this one with a larger butt connector is it's necessary. Let's go ahead and add our fuse holder to it. Just cut it in half, made mine lopsided so it can reach over to the battery and connect to the other side of the butt connector. We're going to add one more ring terminal to the other side of our fuse holder, we'll connect our ring terminal to the positive side of a battery. We'll go ahead and loosen up our nut on the clamp here, add our ring terminal to it, and reinstall the nut. We'll go ahead and hide our wire underneath our cap here. With all our wire connections made we can go ahead and add the provided 20 amp fuse. At this point we'll go ahead and bundle up our wires and secure and make sure it's safe and secure out of the way. We also have some leftover loom material at this point so we can add that in as well. For all our connection points, the butt connectors, it's a good idea to add some electric tape to help give them some extra protection from the elements. If you remember our air line tubing that we worked with earlier in the inside, let's go ahead and wrap that to our operating unit. We'll go ahead and wrap around the edge use its springiness to help hold it in place for us and with our tubing cutter one more time we'll go ahead and cut it to length. Plug that into your operating unit, push it in until it stops then one more time. Next up will be our backing line, we'll look for the break booster right here and we'll look for the line that goes out towards the engine which goes right here. Our line already has a check valve in it so all we need to do is actually key in behind the check valve. If it didn't have a check valve there the kit does come with a check valve for that purpose. The next thing's a little easier to work with, I'm going to go ahead and take off the lid to the air filter here to give us more working room. There's a few clips you have to undo. This will give us some more work room underneath here. We're going to cut a section from here to here and we'll more our check valve up a little bit. We'll cut behind the check valve on this side. I'm using some special cutters for this purpose but you can do this with some 10 snips or a really sharp knife. Let's go and take our T and put it into this line right here. It does help to spray it down with some lubricant like soapy water or some silicone spray. Let's go ahead and free up our check valve. Also look for the little arrow that's on here, this is pointing towards the engine. Let's go ahead and take our original valve and push it right back into the original line here. Then we'll take a small section of our vacuum line that's attached to the operating unit and we'll just put it in the open space right here. This is a bit of a tight fit but it looks like it'll work out pretty good. Let's go ahead and take a moment to route our vacuum line up to our T. What I think I'm going to do is actually take my T and rotate it 4 points down over through the break lines so it'll help keep it away from the air filter cover. We'll go ahead and cut to length and add to our T. Cool. Let's go ahead and put our lid back onto our air filter and we'll go ahead and secure these lines as necessary. I took mine apart just one extra stage just to make things easier to see but you can just move this around as needed to install it. Our hood prop will interfere with our operating unit but all we got to do is just put a gentle bend on it and it'll go right around and back into the place like stock. With an extra set of hands or something else propping up the hood go ahead and bend the rod. I'm just using a simple crescent wrench and let it rest on top of a body work about where we need our bend and we'll simply push it down. To test our system out we need to go ahead and turn on G Force 2 Controller and then we'll go to the front of our vehicle and pull our breakaway switch and test the system. We should hear the compressor turn on and we'll check the break pedal and indicator light to work. Next we'll do our adjustment on G Force 2 Controller, now at this point you want to have the car hooked up electrically to the back of your RV. We'll want to have somebody activate the brake in our RV and make sure the pedal goes down and then we'll adjust it by moving the knob up until it stops and releases the break. Let's go ahead and try it out. We'll go ahead and put the brake on the RV. Okay brake released if I move this, we'll go ahead and move it up a sixteenth of an inch more and tighten down the knob. At this point you want to verify that it works in the RV as well. It's a good idea to take it on a test drive and then make some minor adjustments from there. If you want the cars brakes more aggressive, you'd actually take this and bring it down some or less aggressive take your knob and run it up just a little bit higher. Very small increments at a time, so it'll take a few test runs. Okay with that valve finished the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Supplemental Braking System part number SM99251 on this 2014 Honda CRV. .


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