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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Spark

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2017 Chevrolet Spark


Today, on our 2017 Chevrolet Spark, we'll be installing the SMI Stay-IN-Play Dual supplemental braking system, part number SM99251. What I like about the SMI Stay-IN-Play Duo is that it's a permanent installation in the car, I don't have to worry about getting down on my knees at a muddy campground site to hook up a box that sits in front of my seat. Also, I like the fact that this unit will work on all motor homes. Even though it's an air operated unit, I don't have to worry about my motor home having air brakes in order to use it. I can use it on anything that has an electrical tow package wiring on the back of it. I don't have to have something with a brake controller on it or something with air brakes. It'll work on any motor home out there. Being a proportional braking system, what that means is that if the brakes are applied in the RV a little bit, the brakes will be applied a little bit as well on the car to match.

If you apply the brakes heavily in the RV, the brakes will be applied heavily in the car to match, as well, that way the vehicle will stay true and stop evenly with the RV. It'll stop quickly and smoothly in relation to the RV, staying in line following you. Now, when the brakes are being applied on the RV, and then the brakes are applied in the car, you have an indicator light to show you that the brakes are being applied in the car. When they go off, the light goes off. Down at our G-Force unit, here, this is the only part, when you get the vehicle hooked up to the RV, that you have to mess with. You just press this switch over here to the on position, and you're ready to go.

When you get to your destination and you unhook, just turn the switch back off and you can drive your vehicle as normal. Now, to get your initial setup, all you need to do is twist this knob here a little bit counterclockwise, and you'll have your hazards turn on on the RV. When you're hooked up, you'll slide it down to more sensitive, and once it starts to activate the brakes inside the car, you'll go back to less sensitive. Once it stops activating, you'll tighten it down. This way, when the turn signals are used on the RV, you don't have to worry about the brakes being applied in the car, it'll only work when the brakes are being applied in the RV and the RV starts to slow down.

Once you have the initial setup made, all you have to do is just use the switch like normal. Now, here's your breakaway switch. You have one end of this cable that attaches to a fixed point on the RV. If by some chance the vehicle will become disconnected from your RV, this will be pulled, and this would automatically apply the brakes in the car so that the car will slow to a stop, hopefully not causing any damage to any other vehicle one the road. Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed here. The first thing that you need to do is find a place to locate your operating unit. We've installed ours on the drivers side of the frame rail right here, in front of the transmission, behind the radiator.

There we're two existing holes there on the frame rail that lined up perfectly with the existing holes on the opposite side of the box where we ran some screws, washers, and nuts through to secure it in place. The next thing you'll want to do is find a place to mount your breakaway switch. Our inaudible 00:03:24 bracket, here, had a tab to attach the breakaway switch to, so it's a good idea to install this when you have your fascia off when you're installing your baseplate. Now, the next thing you'll want to do is start making your plumbing connections for the vacuum lines and the air line. You'll need to T into the factory line that comes from your brake booster, back here, to your engine. Put your T in line where it T's off. This is where it runs to the operating unit. Then you'll need to put one check-valve in place. The check-valves are color coded, the black side goes toward the engine and the green side goes toward the brake booster. Now, if you follow this line down to our operating unit, you'll see where our airline comes off, here. This will go inside the firewall of our vehicle and attach to our cylinder, which operates our brake pedal. Here's where our airline tubing, right here, connected to our cylinder, comes up, comes to the side of our gas pedal, here, and then goes through a grommet in the firewall that we installed. This is the same grommet where we passed all of our wires through for our G-Force controller. Now, our cylinder has had to clamp to our brake pedal, here, so our cable . You want to make sure you have a little bit of slack in it. About a 1/4" to 1/2" of slack, and that'd be plenty for it to operate properly. The anchor point is secured to our firewall with a self-tapping screw. When you install this, you want to make sure that the cable is straight in line with the cylinder when the pedal is depressed by the actuator, so where we have it right here will be perfect. One thing you want to note is on the Spark you can only flat-tow a manual transmission, you can't flat-tow an automatic, so you'll want to make sure you mount the cylinder on the side closest to the gas pedal. Otherwise, when the pedal's drawn in, it runs the risk of interfering with the steering shaft. Now, for some of our electrical connections, here, this red wire coming off here is for our indicator light. This red wire, you typically would want to attach to the cold side of the brake light switch, but on this particular vehicle the brake light switch is inaccessible and it goes dead after an extended period of time, so instead we have it attached to the blue wire coming off of our breakaway switch mounted at the front of the vehicle. This will still make the light come on when the brakes are applied. Our black wire, here, is the black wire off the indicator light. We have this running over to this connector over here, where it T's in to the two black wires that connect the G-Force controller and the operating unit. Those two connections are the only two points that we need to make inside the car. Everything else is done underneath the hood. Now, when you mount your G-Force unit, you want to make sure that you mount it with the SMI logo facing towards the front of the vehicle, and level. This side of the center console on the passenger seat was about the best spot I could find to mount this. It's up and out of the way so our passenger, when they're sitting here, their feet won't interfere with it when you're driving down the road. Here's the majority of the wiring connections we had to make underneath the hood. These are just stored down in the side of our battery and out of the way, so it won't be in the way when we need to service the battery. This black connection, here, this connects the black wire from the G-Force unit here to the black wire of the operating unit mounted down below. This red wire, here, connects the red wire from the G-Force unit to the red wire of the operating unit. This connector, here, connects the blue wire of the operating unit to the blue wire of the breakaway switch, and then goes inside the firewall for us to tap into for our indicator light. These three connections, here, are where we tapped in from the G-Force controller to our existing towed vehicle lighting wiring. Our yellow wires, here, are for our left turn signal. Our green wires, here, are for our right turn signal. Both of these also function as brake lights for our vehicle when it's in tow position. This is how it gets the signal from the RV to apply the brakes. Our white wire, here, is our ground wire. We tied into the existing tow vehicle wiring. The ground off of the G-Force controller, the ground off of the operating unit, and we have an additional ground wire that comes down here to an existing chassis ground point, just so we're doubled up on ground connections and we won't have any issues. Our brown wire, here, is not part of our install, but it's still part of the towed vehicle wiring system. We don't need it for the SMI. That's the one connection on the towed vehicle lighting system you don't need to make any connections with. Now, our orange and black wire off of our breakaway switch connects to the brown wire from the operating unit, and then connects to our fuse holder, here, onto the positive terminal of our fusebox, here, to make our connection. Our indicator light we have mounted on the backside of our rear view mirror. We ran the wire up, into the headliner, to the edge, here, where we met our A-pillar. We popped this cover back on the A-pillar, here, ran the wires behind our side curtain air bags so in case our air bags ever deploy, we're hit with an air bag and not wire. Then we dropped the wires down, pulled this weather stripping back, ran the wires down behind the weather stripping, put the weather stripping back in place, and we made our connections underneath the dash where we already showed you. With all of our connections made and the carpet put back in place, you can see how hidden everything is. It's tucked up nicely behind our carpet and the dash, so it's like nothing's actually there. That completes our installation of the SMI Stay-IN-Play Dual supplemental braking system, part number SM99251, on our 2017 Chevrolet Spark.


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