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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2018 Ford F-150

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2018 Ford F-150


Clayner: Hey, everyone. How's it going Clayner at etrailer.com. And today I'll be showing you how to install and we'll go over some of the features of the Demco Stay-IN-Play Duo supplemental braking system on our 2018 Ford F-150.Our supplemental braking system is one of the key components in our flat towing setup. We have our tow bar, our base plate, our trailer wiring, our safety cables. Now you might be asking yourself, "Why do I need this" Or, "Is it required" Well, actually, most States do require you to have a supplemental braking system. And the reason that is, is if your vehicle does happen to become detached from your RV, it'll apply the brakes in your vehicle, bringing it to a safe stop.The only visible part of our braking system on the outside of our vehicle is going to be our breakaway switch here and that's what initiates the brakes to be pressed if it does come detached.

The other components of our supplemental braking system are going to be hidden either under our vehicle or in our vehicle. So we have our operating unit mounted underneath our vehicle. We have our G-Force controller mounted in the kick panel on the driver's side in our cab. And we have our indicator light on the back of our mirror. That indicator light shows us when our brakes are being pressed and we can see it in our rear view camera.And in terms of installation, the supplemental braking system can be challenging.

There are a lot of connections and there are many components to this install. Now, if you take your time, it's really not going to be that bad. I'll go ahead and show you all of our components then we'll show you how we installed ours.Before we get everything installed I do just want to go over all the components for our braking system. We're going to have our operating unit, our G-Force controller, our indicator light, our brake actuator, our breakaway switch, and our fuse holder. So there are going to be a couple of connections that we're going to have to make.

Starting with the connections from our G-Force controller, we're going to be connecting our red wire straight to the red wire on our operating unit. We're going to be connecting our black wire on our G-Force controller to the black wire from our operating unit tied in with our indicator light. Then we're going to be connecting our yellow, our green, and our white wire to that diode wiring that we left tucked up underneath our vehicle.So the connections from our operating unit are going to follow the brown wire to our orange wire and then our blue wire to our black wire, and then we're going to tie those together and run that to our battery using our fuse holder. And again, that red wire is going to connect to the red wire on our G-Force controller and that black wire is going to connect to the black wire tied in with our indicator light. Our red wire on our indicator light is going to get tied into our brake light switch on our brake pedal underneath our dash.Our kit is going to come with a rubber hose and a plastic airline hose.

Now these are going to be used for our airline connections. There's going to be a bigger plug on our operating unit and that's going to be for our bigger hose. And that gets tied in to our brake inaudible 00:02:56 on our vehicle. The smaller airline hose is going to connect from our operating unit to our brake actuator. Our actuator is going to mount behind our brake pedal up against our firewall. We do want to make sure whenever we're running those airlines, that we're not keeping it too tight and that there's no kinks in those lines.So our kit is going to come with a couple of fittings. This is going to be for hooking up our operating unit to our brake booster. We're going to cut into our factory brake booster, we want to make sure we're going directly to the one that's going to the engine. We're going to cut that in half, add this t-fitting, then we're going to run that airline from our operating unit and connect it here. And we are going to add this check valve a little bit closer to the engine, and this black side is going to face towards our engine and this greenish white side is going to face towards our t-fitting.We do want to keep in mind that when we mount our G-Force controller inside of our vehicle, we want it to be as level as possible. We also want the Demco words to face out. That way we can make sure we can easily access our switch. When we mount our breakaway switch, we want it to be pretty solid. That way there is a good, strong connection if this does happen to get pulled.We do need to install a brake light relay for our application. Our white wire is going to run to ground, our blue wire is going to run to our brake light switch. We will not be using our green wire, the green wire is for a push button start and we have a key turn start. Our black wire is going to run to the other side of our brake light switch and our red wire is going to run to our taillight signal. As I previously said, we do need that brake light relay to correctly get our turn signal back to our towed vehicle. Our brake signal from our RV will override that turn signal on our vehicle and people will be able to tell when we're turning.Now, we need to find somewhere to mount our operating unit. This can be mounted underneath the vehicle in the engine department or inside of the vehicle. There isn't a lot of room in our engine compartment and it's far away to mount it inside the vehicle so I'm actually going to mount it right here. This right here, on this cross member, that's going to give us quite enough room to make all of our connections and there's a lot of room on this side of the firewall to run all of our airline tubes and any wiring connections up to our engine bay. Also, we have our wiring tucked over here to make those connections to our G-Force controller.To pull all of our wiring into our cab, and our airline tube, and our vacuum line we're going to be using this factory grommet located right here. We're going to be poking a hole in that and using an extra airline tube to pull everything through. So I'm going to mount our G-Force controller right here. That'll stay nice and level and it's tucked up out of our way for normal use. We do want to make sure when we mount our indicator light, that it's clearly visible in the review camera on our RV. So we're going to mount our indicator light on the back of our mirror here, run our wiring up through our headliner, and just take a nylon pry tool and push that wiring into that headliner, and then bring our wire down this A pillar, and then drop the wire into this kick panel down here and make our necessary connection.Our connection right here is our black wire from our indicator light to our black wire on our operating unit and on our G-Force controller. Then when we connected it to our brake light switch, our red wire connects right here with our brake light relay, and our purple and white wire for our brake light switch, and then on the other side of the switch up there is the other end of our brake light relay.Now we can go ahead and find a spot to run our ground wire. There's a really good spot right here behind our G-Force controller, as long as it's bare metal. Then I go ahead and wipe that off with some rubbing alcohol, and then I'll run our ground. And right here, you can see, this is where I made all of our wiring connections. This is a really good spot because it's hidden behind our fascia and there's a lot of room to work. We made all those necessary connections from our operating unit to our G-Force controller and to our breakaway switch.And then what I did was it was electrical tape all over our inaudible 00:07:14 butt connectors and then zip tied it up to our factory wiring to keep it out of the way. And as you can see, it doesn't move a whole lot. And this is really important because if it hangs down, you'll be able to see it from the front of the vehicle. And when it's up here, it's all hidden and looks nice. As you can see, I put our ground right there. It's protected behind that brace. So we don't have to worry about it getting ripped off and the frame is really strong right there.So now we have our power wire run up by our battery. I did have to splice in a yellow wire to that brown and that red wire. I'm going to go ahead, cut our fuse holder, trim back this and make our connection. We're just going to trim this back in the middle, going to strip back ends, and wire a butt connector to one side and then a ring terminal to the other. Now we have our butt connector, can go ahead crimp it down, give it a little tug.And then we're going to take our yellow wire, trim it back, twist it together. And this wire is thin so I am going to trim it a little bit and then bend it over. That way it fits into our connector just a little bit better. Now we can bend that over, put it into our butt connector, then we can go ahead and crimp it down. Now I am going to come back with some electrical tape, just to run over this, to secure a good connection over time. Our kit did include a ring terminal, but it wasn't quite big enough to fit onto our wire and also our battery. But you can find an extra ring terminal here at etrailer.com. I'll go ahead, add that, crimp it down and again, inaudible 00:08:59 a little bit of electrical tape on this, just to ensure that good connection.Now we need to figure out a spot to mount our actuator. I went ahead and cut out this carpet lining behind our brake pedal. We do have this adapter plate here. We want to try and find somewhere flat, but if it's not completely flat, that's okay. We're going to grab a couple self-tappers, run this plate in here and determine which hole is going to be best for our anchor on our actuator. Now with our actuator, we want to get this as low on the pedal as possible and we want this cable here as straight as possible with just a little bit of play. And it's very important when you mount your actuator, that you have your pedals adjusted all the way out if your truck does have those adjustable pedals. Now this is important because we can still adjust our pedals forward whenever we're driving and then when we want to flat tow, we just push these pedals all the way out and our actuator will work perfectly.So we went ahead and ran our airline tube into the cab using that hole in the firewall. I just used that extra airline tube I was using to pull wires in and out, to pull this one in. Now, I went ahead and attached it to our operating unit and this side is going to plug in the same way as it does on our operating unit. You want to make sure to stay away from anything hot or moving when you're running this line, and you really want to make sure not to get a kink in it or else you're not going to get proper air flow.When we make our connection to our actuator, I like to turn this 90 towards the airline, and then you do want to leave just a little bit extra so there's room for it to flex. So I'm probably going to cut it right about. Well, we'll give it a little bit more. Maybe right about here. That'll give us enough room for that airline to move when it has to. So we'll go ahead, grab our airline cutters, cut it straight, rub off any burrs, then push it into our actuator, give it a little pull then we know we're good.And as you can see this rotates freely and that'll leave plenty of room for our airline to flex whenever air comes through. Our airline tube comes out of the firewall down there, it comes up here. This wire loom here was all of our wiring. I put that wire loom on there to protect it and make it look a little cleaner. Then I zip tied this new airline tube to it, bring it under our air box down this way with the rest of our wiring, and through the frame rail, just like the wiring from our operating unit.This is our vacuum hose. This has to connect to the brake booster in the air going to our motor, and this airline tube goes all the way over to our motor so we know we're good to connect here. Now this airline tube comes this way behind our air box, down under by our airline, and drops down by our operating unit, just with the airline tube and our wiring. This is where that vacuum line comes down. I wrapped it around our inter-cooler piping because this isn't going to get too hot and it'll keep our tube nice and tucked up here. I took this airline tube and zip tied it to that wiring that also comes out of our operating unit, and that goes right up the side of the frame rail here. Now, when you push these on this vacuum line pushes right onto this fitting and this airline tube, you want to make sure it has a clean edge and all you have to do is push it right in to our operating unit.When we go to put in our t-fitting for our vacuum line, our stock hose is a little too small to fit over our connectors. This size is the same size that's on our Jeep. So what we need to do is grab one of our adapters, put a bigger hose onto this end, and then we'll take our rubber hose and push it on here, and then this size hose will fit over here, and you just run a hose clamp around here to secure that connection. So right here is our t-fitting and this is what that adapter hose is going to look like when it's installed.Now, we're going to do the same thing on this side but we are going to be adding a check valve. We're going to want the black side facing our engine and that's also going to face the adapter so that'll help you determine if it's facing the right way. We want the green side facing our t-fitting. So I'll add this hose here and this hose will fit directly onto our t-fitting, and then we'll use the bigger side with a hose clamp for our adapter. We'll go ahead and push our hose on there. And we are going to have to cut a little bit more off of our brake booster line, just so it fits a little bit better. Now there is a little bit of play in this so I'm going to go ahead and cut it right about here.Again, just for some clarification, this is our line coming from our operating unit, and then we cut out a good majority of our break booster line, we added our adapter here with a hose clamp here to secure it to our stock line, put in our t-fitting, then we added our check valve with the black side facing the motor, added our other adapter here, and then used our last hose clamp to secure everything down. It is a good idea to pull it and make sure it's not going anywhere. But again, don't pull too hard. You don't want to break these lines. There is a factory vacuum line located right here under all of this, and it was zip tied to this originally. So I'm going to go ahead and zip tie our new line to this just for a little extra security.And before we can test everything out, we need to make sure to hook up our fuse holder and our charge line to our battery. We're going to use a 12 millimeter socket and take this nut off the top. Now we can grab our ring terminals, slide them onto our post, and then secure that 12 millimeter bolt back onto our battery. Now we might have to do a little bit of trimming on our positive boot here, and it looks like we do. So I'm just going to mark that over here then trim it with some pliers. With everything hooked up to our battery, we can go ahead and grab the fuse from our kit and add that to our fuse holder. Just slide that in like so, push it down, then close our fuse holder and let's test it out.With everything hooked up, and our G force controller flipped on, we can go ahead and test it out. Now when we pull our breakaway switch, we'll see our indicator light light up, and then we can check and see if our actuator is pushing our brake pedal down. So go ahead and pull this out, and we can hear the actuator pushing the pedal, and our indicator lights are on. So we know it's working good. So that's pretty much going to do it for our look at and installation of the Demco Stay-IN-Play Duo supplemental braking system on our 2018 Ford F-150..


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