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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2010 Ford Explorer

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2010 Ford Explorer


Today on our 2010 Ford explorer, we're going to show you how to install the SMI Stay-In-Play Duo. This is a proportional supplemental braking system. Its part number is SM99251. The duo is an automatic proportional braking system that never has to be removed, replaced, or reset. It activates when your RV's brake lights go on. The inertia sensor in the towed car detects any deceleration properly applying the brakes. Now we are going to start getting our operating unit in place.

We've got a nice area here just behind the air cleaner, kind of a flat surface here on the side of the vehicle. We're going to tuck that right down in there. That'll will give us a nice connection area. We'll bring it up just a little bit, we've got two holes on the top we'll use for mounting. We'll bring those up to where they'll make good contact.

You can see we're just using nice heavy duty self-tappers to get that mounted. Now we're going to take our 3/8 hose, coming out of the box, and let's just route it over towards the brake booster. Nice area for that to run. Now let's head on inside the vehicle and we'll get that G-Force controller mounted. Now here's our G-Force controller. Typically it's going to be a driver's side application, somewhere down there by where your left foot typically hangs out when you're cruising down the road.

In this case though, there's not a good mounting location on that side. What we're going to do is put it right on the side of our center console. You see we've got a relatively flat spot there, where that box will be able to be mounted. I'm going to take my controller and mock it up where I want it. Make sure I've got it level and I'm going to mark my hole location. Now with those outlined, let's go ahead and take our panel off.

We're just going to pull out, and you can see that's just a Christmas tree fastener. Pull that out. Then we'll pull out here at the rear, and let's go ahead and get our controller mounted. Now let's go ahead and take a drill bit that's going to match the hardware that we decide to use, and drill our holes out. Sits in against the center console, and there is a little bit of a turn back to it right here. I'm going to put in a little spacer on that backside. I'll take my bolt, put it down through the G-Force controller, and then I'm going to thread a nut right on the backside there, that's going to act as my spacer. Put my bolt through this side, and then we'll place those right through our panel. There we'll have it mounted. It will be nice and level with the direction of travel. Let's just tighten that down a little bit. Line up our tabs here. Click that in. Click in our front holder there. It looks like we're good. We'll actually be able to take our wires from our G-Force controller right out of the grommet that's underneath the dashboard. It should be a really good location, we won't have a lot of interference to deal with. Now we need to find our brake light switch. That's going to be mounted just above the brake pedal, right up here on top. You can see we've got a little silver stop here, that's going to come out and make contact, but right above that is our switch. It runs into this black wire loom. The wires run through this wire loom here. I'm just going to pull that back and let's take a look at those wires. Then let's test each one of them for power, without the brake being pressed. So our brown and red, we've got signal on. That's our power in. Let's try the purple. And we'll hit the break. That's what we're looking for. When we hit the break we've got 12 volt power, when we take it off, we don't. That's considered the cold side of a brake light switch. Let's connect onto that. What we're going to do is take our quick spade terminal connection and go around that purple wire. We're going to take the end of our red and brown wire that has the insulation around the red connector. You can see as opposed to the other one, our red side is bare. We want to use this one, and we're going to run this up, from behind our dashboard out here to an accessible point. You can see this one is going to be able to come right out below our steering stock here. Probably just mount it right to our tilt lever there. That way it's out of the way when we don't need it, but immediately available when we do. Down here on the backside, I'm going to trim off about 8, or 9 inches off the end of the plug, and we'll set that aside until we get our light ready. Now we can take our red wire, I'm going to run it right over top of that brake light switch. That way it will give it good support. I'm going to just use a zip tie, well go around that brake light switch loom. Give it some good support for our red wire, keep it from moving around too much, or losing its position. Trim off our red wire there, strip the end. I'm going to put on the little male spade connector, and that will slide right into the end of our purple connector there. Now I'm going to bring that brown wire just down behind the mounting bracket for our side panel here, same panel we removed from the other side. I'm going to run this right over to where we mounted that G-Force controller. Were going to connect that to the black wire coming out of the G-Force controller before we send all of these outside. I'm going to use that access hole right there. Push the wire through just like that. Were going to snip that in half, strip the ends and then our brown wire. Were going to take the end of our black wire coming from the G-Force controller and twist it with the brown wire from our brake light switch connection. Put a butt connector on there. Then well connect the side of our black wire thats going to run outside underneath the hood to the other side. Tuck that away, put our panel back into position. One little detour of the black wire there. Now were ready to run our bundle out underneath the hood. Here on the back left side of our hood the passenger side, were got our AC canister here and just beside it weve got kind of a computer. If we look right down in between those 2, theres going to be a grommet on the firewall that has a light grey and a black tube running out of it. What were going to do is cut a small slit in that grommet and slide our wires through. Now Ive got a short piece of air line here that I'm going to be using. You can use a coat hanger, if youve got a little piece of air-line, great. Were just going to tape off our wires to it. Our black wire is going to be a little bit shorter, so its tapped on down here a little bit further. Were just going to tape it off and thats going to help us to pull this through the grommet. Ill just pass that through the slit that weve cut there. I'm just going to reach down in there and pull the wire there. Just pull our wire and gone through. The last thing that we need to pass through our fire wall is going to be our air-line tube. Were going to use the wires that we just pulled through. Were going to tape that off to them and use those to pull our air-line into the vehicle. Ill just gently pull on our wires until we get our air-line in. You can see weve got our air-line, so we can just continue to pull that extra slack through. Now were going to take a tubing cuter and were going to make a nice flush cut right on the end of our air-line there. If you dont have a cutter part number F9009. I'm just going to route it underneath the bracket here on the air conditioner canister and then we can plug it right into the bottom side of the box there. When you push in very firmly youll feel it pop into place and then just give it a pull to make sure its connected. Well pull our slack back from our wires there. Now lets take our green, our yellow and our white wire, just set it aside for now. What we want to do is hook the red wire coming from the inside of the car up to the red wire coming out of the breaking system. Then any of the connections we make outside of the vehicle here, were going to wrap up with tape just to give us a little bit of a vapor barrier there. Our black wire that runs up from our G-Force controller thats inside of the car that gets hooked to the black wire on our box. The blue wire from our box, thats going to be connected into the wire for our breakaway switch. We added that in when we we're doing the base plate, so we didnt have to deal with the fascia back on the car. Now we can take our 4-pole wire here. Weve looped that up around here by our controller so we can get to the wires we need. Lets just separate these out. Theyre going to have a clear plastic sheathing around them. I just want to cut that apart without cutting into our wire. For making these connections its going to be supplied with some quick connects. You slide that over one wire, stick the other wire down in and then when you push that tab down, it makes the connection between both the wires and you just pull your cap over the top. What I prefer to do is use butt connectors to make these connections. Our yellow is going to go top our yellow wire. What were going to do is split our yellow wire. Cut off the length of the yellow that well need to make the connection. Well strip our 3 ends off. The one coming from the front of the car, I stripped off some extra length on so I can double it up. I'm going to use the yellow butt connector right on the end of it. Then my other 2 wires, I'm going to place those right beside each other and twist them together. That will go in the other side of that butt connector. Now well do the green wire the same way. Just twist together and add them in. the last one well deal with is going to be our white wire. Trim that off, but were going to hang on to this one this time. This time the tag end of our white wire were going to be using for our ground location over here on the firewall. Well put these 2 together and then we can put these 2 together, and put them in the other side of the butt connector. The length of the white wire that we connected there, were going to need about 6 or 7 inches. To the end of this were going to add on a ring terminal. Were going to add that on to the ground stud right here beside our box. Now were grounded up. Now Ill just start going around our different wire bundles here and cleaning everything up. I'm going to bring that brown wire under that bracket. Then were ready to run this right over to our battery side. You can see weve already got our vacuum line running across there. Just bundle these together and get them zip-tied off as we go. I'm going to separate the brown wire from our vacuum line now. Our vacuum line is going to connect right into this one, so thats right where it needs to be. It can come and make its connection. Our brown wire, its going to eventually hook right in here with our power source of our positive cable. Heres the other side of our breakaway switch. This is going to run over to the positive side of the battery. Were going to tie that in with the brown wire thats coming from the operating unit itself. Its not quite long enough to reach, so I'm going to use the extra brown wire thats in the kit there. Then were going to work that right along behind the battery and well come out right there. Lets trim those off, twist those together and well put a butt connector right on the end. Now well grab our red fuse holder and were going to cut this about 4:00. Strip those ends off. The long side will go to our butt connector, the short side were going to add a ring terminal to. Well pull one of the nuts off of the stud there. Check the fuse holder, we want to make sure theres no fuse in there. Put that right down on the positive side and replace our nut. Lets bundle everything up, get it zip tied off here close to our connection point. Were going to take off just a little bit of the extra vacuum line here. Sharp razor knife or some hose cutters like that will work out well. Well just go through and start getting our vacuum hose assembly put together. Were going to start by taking one of the inline valves. Slide that right into the end. Way down that comes to a stop. Well figure out where thats at. We go a thumb width away from that and make us another cut. Into that were going to slide our check valve. Now the black side should go towards the engine. Black oil engine side, green braking system side. Slide that on and slide the other end of our hose onto that, like that. Now come just past the end of there and go about right there. Its where well slide our T in. The hose will go back on the other side, like that. We can make another cut and slide in the other straight fitting. Thats going to go right in line here with the vacuum line that comes from our engine here that runs down to the brake booster. This side of the white fitting fits in our tube fine, but when we try to put it in our factory hose its just too large here on the bigger end. Were going to replace those with a 3/8 to 3/8 bob fitting. Lets take those out. Set down in, push our other side down in. we just got those at the local hardware store. Lets trim our vacuum line right there. Then these are going to slide in a lot easier than our other ones did. Now we need to take that one off about right there. Let that fit in our other side there. Give that one a little bit of extra trim off the vacuum hose that comes over from our braking unit and put it on our T there. Thats all there is to it. Now were going to mount the actuator on the brake pedal itself. I just need to take off the 4 nuts that hold that plate on. The bolts that we have here on the SMI actuator, theyre just not long enough to go around the pedal. They thought of that, weve got 2 inch replacements that we can simply put in place of those to give us plenty of room to make our connection. We should have them listed on our website as part number SM99604. Well take the 2 Allen bolts out. Theyre going to hold that bottom plate on. Were just going to back those out and well throw the new bolts in. Now we can put the bracket back on the actuator. Well figure out where were going to position our actuator. We want it to be over the top of our feet. We usually use the ball of our foot to press, so we want it to be over that where we can make a good connection behind it. I think if we use this side, well have to have it elevated a little bit. Then when we press on the brake about 2 inches, you can see it becomes level. Lets mark the firewall there directly behind it. It will be at that level, so well come about an inch below there. Lets trim out this area here and then through here and that will give our anchor a good spot to sit. I'm just going to use a razor knife here and just cut through that. Kind of like a sound deadening material. Pull that off and then well get rid of that foam in there behind it. That gives us a good look right back at the firewall there, where well be putting in our self-tapping screw. The black is going to go with this tab facing the firewall. What were going to do is take the wire from the actuator, just slide it through, bring it around and then through again. That will allow us to adjust it once we have our actuator in place for the proper tension. Bring in our provided self-tapping screw. Go right up to the firewall there, and well just get it in place. I'm going to have to trim down a little bit more here to get to that Allens key or that Allen screw thats inside of there. I'm going to bring the actuator up and put our plate on, our nuts on. Now you can see our cable. Its got a little too much play. What were looking for is to be just over a inch but under an inch. Right now Id say from the center line weve got at least an inch of movement. Lets take some of the slack out here. Still a little too much. Right there should be ideal. Then we can tighten down the Allen bolt there. Lets pull our cover off here one more time. Were going to run our air-line over to the driver side compartment. Lets just go behind our bracket. Very similar to what we did with our brown wire. Have that tucked up and get this panel put back in. now were going to take a piece of our wire loom, get our wires tucked up in there. This little tape to go around it and tuck that all the way up to where our wiring is coming down the firewall there. Lets use a couple more zip ties. Well continue routing our airline over here on the driver side and just around that same bracket. Its going to give us good structure there to hold up against. Our air-line will come right over. Its going to connect in there. Well give just a little bit extra and use our tubing cutter again to cut a nice flush in, just like that. Then well slide it right into the actuator. Always give it a pull, make sure its seated in there properly. Lets take the other end of our red and brown wire that has our connector on it. Lets strip both of those off. Add a couple of our blue butt connector. Then we can bring in the side of our light connector. Now well take the red end and place that in our butt connector, the same one that weve got on our red wire. Then we can run the black to our brown wire. Well tape and make that look nicer. Then we can plug that right into the end that we mounted underneath the dash there on our tilt lever. We can take our LED light. Were going to clean the back side of that off with some rubbing alcohol. Lets also clean off the back of the rear view mirror. Well take one side of the hook and loop material. Were going to apply that to the back of the LED and the other side right to the back of the mirror, right on the bottom side there so it wont interfere with any sensors or anything. Just press it on really well. We want this to be in a noticeable location. That way as were going down the road we can see that in the rear camera behind the RV. Put our fuse and our fuse holder. Run through a test that well find in our instructions. Well start our test by turning our G-Force controller into the on position. Now well press on our brake pedal and hope to see our light light-up. There you can see as we had hoped, we hit the brakes, it gives us this signal to let us know the brakes on our vehicle are activated. For the next test lets pull the breakaway switch out and we want to hear our system activate. Well also see the actuator inside the car function. As we replace the breakaway switch it should release and we also want our red LED light to go off indicating our brakes fully released. For our last test were going to plug in the wiring from our coach into the front of the vehicle here and make sure that when we hit the brakes on our coach that it activates our red light on our mirror. Well also see the actuator inside the car function. Now that weve got everything hooked up, lets place our vehicle in tow mode and well go test out the system. That will complete our installation of the SMI Stay-In-Play Duo part number SM99251 on our 2010 Ford Explorer.


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