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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Today on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited we're going to be taking a look at and show you how to install the SMI Stay-In duo. This is a proportional braking system for towed vehicles. The part number is SM99251. The biggest advantage to the Stay and Play duo, in my opinion, is that it's going to stay with the vehicle. We don't have to remove a box or go through a set up procedure every time we want to tow our vehicle. We'll simply hook it up behind our motor home, connect our wiring and turn our switch to on.

Everything stays with the vehicle so there's nothing we have to put on or take off every time we want to use it. This needs to be mounted in direction with the line of travel. The G-force controller acts almost as if it's a brake controller. When this senses deceleration from our motor home, it act accordingly, giving us directly proportional braking. If we're in an emergency stop situation where we really need a lot of braking force, the sensor picks up on that and it's going to deliver that for us. On the other hand, if it's just stop and go traffic, we don't need a lot of braking force coming from the vehicle.

It also is going to sense that and it delivers that. That's going to only use the amount of braking that we need, and helps to reduce wear and tear on our towed vehicles brakes. Also, since it does deliver higher braking force when we need it, it helps us to save brakes on our motor home. We're going to start by getting our operating unit mounted. This is typically going to be outside of the vehicle, in some place that's going to be out of the water spray and things like that. We're going to be mounting right above the air dam here, so we'll start by pulling out the two fasteners and allowing that to lower down slightly.

We've got one here, and basically you just want to pull out the center portion of it, and the rest of it will come. We'll have one in the same spot on the other side as well. We'll bring our operating unit up into position. I'm going to mark one of my holes off, and we'll get that pre-drilled. Depending on how you plan on fastening it, you can get behind it if you want to use a nut and a bolt.

We're going to be using a number 12 self tapping screw at both hole locations, so we'll use that to drill our hole out. We'll use our other hole as a guide to get that one drilled and put in place. Next we'll mount our G-force controller. This needs to be mounted in direction with the line of travel. We want it to be up and down. Really, your best option's going to be here on the kick panel. It's goin to keep it over out of the way, but we still want our switch to be accessible, of course. We're going to use the two provided self-tapping screws to get that mounted in position. Once you've confirmed that there's no electrical wires or anything like that running behind the panel, bring it as far up and out of the way as we can, and get it screwed in place. Now we can get our brake-away mounted. You'll see I taped up a little bit of that. That's just to clean up the look. Our mounting tab's there. We're going to use an 11 millimeter wrench and socket. We've got the large washer that comes with it. We're going to place our bolt through there, place it through the brake-away, and this base plate happens to have a tab designed on it that we can connect to. If yours doesn't have a tab, you can use a short bracket, part number 18140. It will give you about the same effect. We'll get our wires ran through. Most of your Jeep based plates are going to ask you to cut a hole out here, so you should have this. We'll get our nut threaded on there from the bottom and then tighten it down. Now we're going to mount the monitor light. This is designed with three red LEDs. Anytime the system activates, or the brake pedal is pressed, these will light up and indicate that to you. You want this to remain visible, somewhere you can see it from the rear view camera on your RV. There's a flat spot right up here on the dashboard, lends itself nicely. We can get the wiring tucked right down behind this gasket and run it over here to the driver's side floor board. I'm just going to clean that mounting surface with a little bit of rubbing alcohol. Once that's evaporated we'll get it in position. Once we've got that in position we'll just press it down firmly to make sure it sticks really well. From there we should be able to tuck it right behind that seal, all the way across. Where that gasket meets the side here of the A pillar, we want to pass our wire right down through there, and we'll find it behind our access panel. We'll take this side panel out so we can find our wiring right up here. I'm just going to start at the bottom with a flat blade or a trim panel tool. I'm just going to gently pull out and release a few clips along the way there. See our wire, just pull that down through. We'll just use a zip tie to anchor that out here. We'll run it right down there so it will come out above where we put that G-force controller. All right, now we can put that side panel back in. We've got the two ends coming from our light down here on the floorboard. The black one, we're going to connect to the black wire coming from our G-force controller and we'll do that by adding in a splice with a butt connector here. We'll cut the black wire. We're going to get it stripped back on both sides. On the end of both of our wires, they've already got kind of an attachment point there for us. We'll cut that off, just leave it there. We'll be using part number DW05744, one of our heat shrink butt connectors, and we'll get them crimped down. Then with the heat gun, or maybe a mini torch, or we're going to use a lighter, we'll want to shrink that down, and we'll just prevent any moisture or anything like that from getting in there, but it also helps to keep a good connection held together there. Now, the red wire's going to go to the cold side of our brake light switch. The cold side of brake light switch is the side that when you press the pedal it has signal. When you install a diode kit on the Wrangler Unlimited, you need to add in a brake light relay. This part number is RM88400. It connects into your brake light switch, and that's going to stop it from overriding the lights, so your blinkers and everything will function properly when your motor home's controlling them. We've already tapped into the cold side of the brake light switch with our green wire here, so instead of getting back into that and trying to cut that again, we can tap into it right here, so we'll snip that wire and get it stripped back on both sides. We're going to splice this end just like we did the black wire, but we're going to be using a little bit larger butt connector, because this is a larger diameter wire. We'll get that one shrank down, just like we did our other one. I'm going to tape up my harness here on my relay and get it put back up where I had it, and I'm also going to tape up for my G-force controller now, well up the line because I'm going to pass that through the fire wall and I want that to look nice when I do that. You'll have some excess wire from your light, as well. It's a good idea to get that bundled up, and since I've got a good spot to secure my relay up there, I'm going to take this all off to that. We've got a metal bracket that's going to come down here, kind of on the driver's side kick panel. Right above that there's a soft grommet that's going to allow you to pass your wires coming through your G-force controller, out. Once we have our wiring out of the grommet here, I'm going to route it in behind this plastic panel, and we'll just kind of go around down there toward our operating unit. Duck in behind this one as well. You see we've got our G-force controller harness ran down here. We've got our brake-away switch wire operating units right there. We've left a loop in the towed vehicle wiring. We need to tie a couple of these wires in to the ground, left turn and right turn, so we've just left that loop there. We'll eliminate that once we have our wiring closer to completed. We'll pull our tape back off of our G-force controller harness here a little bit, and then the first connection we'll get eliminated her is going to be the blue wire from our brake-away switch to the blue wire from the operating unit. Just like before, any of our heat shrinks we've put on here, we're going to get shrank down. Now we can connect the red wire from our G-force controller to the red wire from our operating unit. Now we'll connect the black wire from the operating unit to the black wire from the G-force controller. Now we'll connect the brown wire from the operating unit to the orange and black wire from the brake-away switch, but we need to add a double wire to one side. We need to run up to our batter to make our connection through our fuse holder. We'll get these trimmed and we'll show you how to use this wire to make that jumper to run up to the top. We just want to twist them together, and we'll use one of our larger yellow butt connectors. Now the white wire from the G-force controller needs to go to the ground wire that comes from the motor home, but you'll see it also needs to go to a chassis ground. We already have that established here, so we can splice it in, right in line here. We'll slide both of them in one side and connect the other side, just as a single. Now from the towed vehicle line, you see we've got out green and yellow wire here which we need to tie our green and yellow end from the G-force controller. We'll combine the yellow from the G-force controller and the yellow from the towed vehicle line, use a butt connector to splice them together. We'll do that exact same thing for our green wire. The brown wire, we're just going to snip off that excess loop and connect those directly to one another. All right, now we're on our ground wire here behind the operating unit. If we run it along with this wire loop we'll be able to go straight up to our battery, just in front of the engine. We're just going to bring that brown wire just on the back side of the battery and fuse box there, and I want to zip tie it off right here to the positive cable. We'll snip off the excess there we don't need. We're going to strip it back, add on one of our yellow butt connectors, and we'll grab our fuse holder, and we're going to cut that at about the 4:30 or 5:00 position there. Strip both ends of this back, and the longer end we're going to add into that butt connector and heat shrink it down. Now, the other side we'll add a ring terminal on and connect it to our battery then add our fuse. That will be one of the last steps that we complete. Now we can run our quarter-inch air line tubing. We're going to go right up the same way we did with our G-force controller wire here, and we're going to run it in the same grommet in the fire wall, so just stay right with that same path. We're going to slide our air line tubing into our push to connect fitting. It will come to a stop, push it just a little more, and go in there. I'm going to use one zip tie here just to hold it in position. Now we'll pull our air line on through, just want to check under the hood and verify you get out any of the twists that might be in there. We'll just keep it up out of the way for now. Now we're going to run our vacuum line. We're going to go down about the same spot that we did with our G-force wires where we brought our air line up, but I want to zip tie it to the bottom of this hose and to the bottom of this hose. We'll be making our connection right up here, and we'll make it look really nice. We'll take the end of that, we're going to slide it right onto that check box, just like that, and then push any of our slack back up. Now we'll use our zip ties to get everything secure. We want to keep it up off of our sleigh bar right here, so just keep that in mind. That will take care of everything down here, so we can put our panel back in position, and we'll bring that three-eighths line, like we said, right underneath this hose. We're going to T that vacuum line in between our brake booster here, on this line that runs down here toward our engine. What we want to do is push this back, and we're going to cut this off so we can actually get to that line underneath. Once that's down we want to just split it down the middle, and we're going to put our check valve in this straight area right here, so we'll want to cut that, get a nice flush cut on it. The black side of that check valve we want to be toward the engine, and the white side of it will be back towards our booster. We'll put our T in right here, so we'll cut that as well. Put our vacuum line in back down, cut it off and put it on the third portion of our T. Now to mount the actuator, I'm going to clear out just a little bit of this carpeting here. Just trim that off. We'll bring our actuator up into position here. See where that wire's going to make contact with the fire wall. Looks like that will be right here. While we have this off we're going to do a rough fit for the length of cable that we're actually going to need. I like to start with the bolt on my actuator always all the way against the front of the pedal, see where that hits, and it looks like it's a good distance. After it cycles the first time it typically slacks a little bit, so that should give us the perfect set. We'll use a 5/32 Allen key, and we want to run that set screw that's right here down till it makes contact with the cable, and we're just going to go about another quarter turn. If we over tighten that, it's likely to cause damage to that cable, and we'll use the provided self-tapping screw and the 3/8 bit driver and get that secured. We're going to use that self-tapping screw to create our hole first. Once we've done that we'll place the screw through the block that mounts our cable to the fire wall and get it secured down. Our actuator will come up around the pedal, and we'll put our plate on and put our nuts in place to hold it. Once we have all four of those started it's time to tighten them down in a crossing pattern. Now, ideally you'll have about a quarter inch of play, side to side, on your cable here. If you don't you just want to move your clamp a little bit further this way to get the right tension in it. Now I'm going to make a loop with my air line tube up behind the dash here. You can see this is the end of it where it comes out. We want to make a nice flush cut there. We'll stick that right into the elbow. Remember it's going to go into a stop, and it will go just a little bit further, give you a click, and the air line tubing at this point, since we put that little loop in it, will hold itself up nicely. If you need to you can always zip tie it off. Now at the end of that fuse holder we'll add on our ring terminal. Now we went slightly larger than what came with the kit, just so they'll fit around our stud here for our battery. We'll use a 10 millimeter socket to remove that. Lift that wire off. We'll tuck most of this down below, place my ring terminal on and my wire right back over it. I'm just re-securing it. Now we can take the provided 20 amp fuse. We want to place that in our fuse holder, and put the protective cover over it. Now you can do what you wish as far as tucking this down out of the way. I'd keep it so you can kind of find it, know where it's at and be able to get to it, or your customer be able to get to it. Put it right down there behind that wire lane should be a good spot for it. We're going to test out our system. We'll want to toggle it into the On position, and we can first press the brake pedal and make sure the three red LEDs come on. All right, that means our connection for our light is done properly. Now we'll come to the front of the vehicle. We want to pull the brake-away switch for about 10 seconds and confirm system activation. We'll place that back in. We need to go inside the vehicle now and make sure that our brake pedal is fully released, and we need to check the tension on that cable to make sure it hasn't slipped. Now we're ready to hook up the wiring between our coach and our vehicle, make sure the system's going to activate that way as well. Now, with our towed vehicle wiring hooked up, you'll want to apply the brakes in the coach. You'll listen for the activation of the system, and you want to check and make sure that red light comes on. Now, for the initial set up of the G-force controller, you can see our knob set down here to "more sensitive." You'll want to loosen that and with the blinker on in our coach, we're going to turn this on and we'll hear the system pulsing. Once it pulses we're going to move it up till it stops and go about 1/16 of an inch further. It stopped there, just a touch higher. We'll set that knob. Now to adjust it, if we want more sensitivity we'll move our knob down slightly, less sensitivity we can move it up slightly. Once we're hooked up to our towed vehicle, traveling down the road, we hit the brakes inside of our coach, it's going to operate the brake pedal on our Jeep as well. Now, with everything working properly, that's going to complete our installation of the SMI Stay and Play duo, part number SM99251 on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited,.


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