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SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System Installation - 2015 Ford Edge

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How to Install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO Braking System on a 2015 Ford Edge


Today on our 2015 Ford Edge, we're going to show you how to install the SMI Stay-IN-Play DUO. This is a proportional supplemental braking system with part number SM99251. Now, as you can see, we've got the fascia removed from our car. That's part of the base plate installation, and this is going to help us out a lot in installing the SMI. This is going to allow us to route our wires a little bit easier. It gives us a little more room to get in here; we won't be leaning over our bumper and things like that. For our initial step, what we want to do is get the SMI mounted.

We're going to go right on top of the cover here. It's kind of like a foam cover. We'll just need to remove that. Right here, just above the throttle body, we're going to have a little .. it's kind of like a push fastener, but it'll thread out, so we'll just loosen that up.

See, that'll come out there. Right over here we have a true push-pin fastener. Use like a trim panel removal tool or a screwdriver. We want to pop that center core out of there. Once we've got that popped up, we should be able to just pull it out just like that. Then the last place holding it in is going to be right here around the oil filler neck.

That's just kind of a matter of pulling it out and around that. You want to watch your AC line here; we don't want to bend that up too much. All right. Pull it out just like that. Now, let's grab our operating unit, and we'll set it right down on top there. Now, if you decide not to go on top here, that's okay.

You can mount it just about anywhere that you'd like in the vehicle; we just want to keep it out direct water or road spray. Now, to mount our box, we're going to use a couple of zip ties. We're going to go right through the cover here, through the bottom, and we'll come back up through about right here to get everything cinched down. I'm going to use just a small screwdriver. I just want to poke down through there gently. That's going to give us an area for our zip tie to go through, and we'll do another one right over here. Then we'll do for all 4 of our mounting hole locations. Now, with our holes in place, let's go ahead and slide our zip ties down through there. We'll do that in all 4 locations. These zip ties are provided with the braking system. It's always a good idea to have some extra zip ties around, though; that way, you can get all your wires secured and everything like that. Now we'll flip our cover over, and here you can see this is part of the shroud that was on the front of the vehicle. You have to trim out a couple of squares to allow the base plate to fit in. If your base plate doesn't require you to trim these out, you can use just a stiff piece of plastic; that's really all it is. We're going to use this just to kind of spread the zip tie energy over a larger area. That way, we don't have to worry about it ever pulling through our foam. Then we'll just turn them and send them right back out the front where we can make our connection. Now, it'll just be a matter of securing our zip ties up here. Pull through any of our slack. Now, we'll just trim off the excess zip tie, and we can get our cover mounted back into position. Now, for our next step, we're going to go ahead and get the battery out of the way here. We want to remove the positive cable, the negative cable. Both of those we'll use a 10 mm wrench for. Then right down here there'll be a battery hold-down. We'll get that out of the way in a moment. There's going to be 2 bolts or 2 nuts on the negative terminal, 1 to the left and 1 a little bit back further on the right, right in the middle. We want to loosen the one that's a little bit back further there. Now, we'll use a socket with an 8 mm head and remove that hold-down right down there in the bottom. I just pull that bracket out. There's not going to be enough room to just pull the battery right up and out of this hole, so we want to pull back this air filter cover a little bit. To do that, pop out on our 2 clips there. We should just be able to kind of pull up and out and move it over out of the way and then get the battery on out of that slot. The next thing we're going to take care of is mounting our G-Force controller box. We want to orient the writing to the passenger's side, and we want our switch to face the rear of the vehicle. After looking around the vehicle, typically we'd mount this right up kind of where your left foot would be while driving, but there's not enough room there. Now, the controller's going to be mounted right here, just behind that seat belt post, all the way down on the carpet. We want to check our hole locations. We'll have one here and one here. We're going to be putting these provided self-tapping screws in. We want to check behind there to make sure we don't have any wiring or anything like that that we might screw into. No, everything there is looking fine. We won't have any issues; let's go ahead and get it mounted. Now we've got in mounted in there. It's nice and level. We've got the SMI or the wording facing towards the passenger's side. Switch face towards the rear. That's a great location. We're going to take some black tape, and we're going to wrap it up to keep everything looking nice and neat. All right. That should be plenty long enough to get it tucked underneath the threshold panel there. We're going to use a little trim panel removal tool and just kind of hook the bottom of that panel, and if you kind of rotate it, you can see it'll slide under for you. All right. Now, we're going to pop off this threshold panel here. It's got a couple of push-pin fasteners kind of in the middle. Then on each end, there's a couple of tabs. This'll pop up right there on their B pillar post. Bring your wiring in underneath. Pop that back in. You just want to run it inside of those. These are where those fasteners are going to go. We don't want those to smash down onto our wiring, so just be sure it's clear of that. Now, we're going to pop up the little pressure fastener that we've got there. We just want to run our wire up to where it's going to come out right here. You can see. Just kind of tape the end together. That way, we're just trying to get one uniform thing through there rather than 5 different wires. Once we've got that passed through, we'll just draw out any of our slack that we've got. Get it all tucked in there. Then just start putting our fasteners into place. When we put our threshold back in place, those need to go in those holes. Now, we're going to take our notification light, and we're going to attach it, if we go to the other end of the black cable there, to the 2 connectors that are attached to the end of each wire. We've got a red and a black. You're also going to have a length of red and black wire. Take those lengths of wire and strip the end off. Give each one of them a little bit of a twist there. We can add on our provided butt connectors. Bring that red side of that metal end. Place it right in there. We can crimp that down just like we would a piece of wire. Black to black, red to red. Now, we're going to be mounting the monitoring light right to the back of the rear-view mirror. You can see right here we've got a sensor. We want to avoid that. We're going to be mounting it right above it. Let's just clean that off with a little bit of rubbing alcohol. We'll also clean off the back of our light with a little rubbing alcohol. We can grab the provided hook and loop fastener here. Get one side of that off of there. We'll attach that right to the back of the light. Attach the other side. We'll place that right up there on our mirror. You can see there, we just want to press it on nice and firmly. Make sure it adheres well. We want to tuck our wire right up above the head liner. You might need to pull down on it just slightly. We'll tuck that in all the way across. Now, we're going to use our trim tool right up here on the top. We're going to pop this A pillar cover off. Just like that. That'll give us enough room to tuck our wires on up in there. We're going to run them right down the A pillar. Now, if you have an airbag mounted in the A pillar, you want to make sure the wiring goes in behind it. We don't want to block that or anything like that. Put that down. Pop it back into place. You can see here, we'll pull up on that panel there. We should be able to feed those straight through right into the underdash compartment. Now, we'll pull down the red and black wire, pulling out all the slack, and then we'll just push the panel back in place here on the driver's side door. Now, the black wire that comes from our monitor light needs to be tied in with the black wire that comes from the G-Force Controller. What we're going to do is, right where it comes out of the panel here, I'm going to cut the wire right there. Strip both ends of that back. We'll also strip back the end of that wire from the monitor light. Twist that in, and we're going to use a yellow butt connector. Slide that on. Now, if you don't have a few extra butt connectors at home, you can find them on our website. We carry them, and just get them with your order; that way, you'll be able to make your connections this way, or you can use the provided quick-splice connectors if you prefer. We'll take that other side of the black wire from the G-Force controller. Run my black wire from the monitor light right over here. I want to kind of combine these 2 wires together. We'll twist them together. Then that'll go under the other side of that butt connector. We'll give all of our wires a pull, make sure they're connected properly. Then by pulling that G-Force wire, we'll get it ran up there. We can tuck that extra wire up out of the way. Now, the red wire, typically this would go to the brake light switch circuit, but in this application, since our brake pedal switch or our brake light switch is dead when it's tow mode, we need to run this out under the hood as well. We're going to run it right along with our G-Force controller wire. To do that, we'll have to tape it off. All right, that should do it. Now, if we look just to the left side of our steering stem, which is here, we're going to see a grommet right up here on the firewall. We're going to pass our G-Force controller wires through this grommet. We'll make a small slit in it on this side and also a small slit on the outside so our wires will pass through freely. All right, now we'll go to the outside and do the same thing there. All right, now we should be able to pass it through. Now, to help pull our wires through, we're going to take the provided air line. We're going to pass it through that grommet so we can bring our group of wires up. We're going to tape it off right to that air line. All right, now we should be able to pull that on through using our air line. There we go. Take our tape off there, expose our wires. Now that air line tubing, we're just going to leave it in place because that's what's going to take our air into our air cylinder, so we don't have to worry about pulling that out, kind of kill 2 birds with 1 stone there. All right, now the next step we're going to do is take care of our vacuum lines before we get all of our wiring bundled up. We're going to have 2 check valves that are going to need to go in on this application. It's one of the few where we need both of them, but we do need both of them. We'll show you right where they go. I'm going to take a small section off the end of the hose that's attached to the operating unit. We're not going to need the full length that we've got there. Use a little bit of this to make our connections here. Take off, like I said, a short length. Cut it just about in half. We want to be sure these are nice and straight, and we'll put one of our check valves in, just like that. Then we'll see right here on our air filter tube, we're going to have a vacuum line. It's kind of got like a protective sheathing around it there. Just pull that out. Kind of bring it over here, and I want to put this check valve in right down here on that straight stretch. Just back that sheathing down some. Take our tubing cutter, cut it off nice and flush. Then we can take our hose assembly. We want the black side of the check valve to face toward that plug that we unhooked there. We'll take our plug side, and a little bit of lubricant there. We just want to push it and twist it together really well, and we want to be able to pull on it without it pulling apart or without it separating. We've got that connection made. Let's make our other connection here. Push and twist at the same time. It's going to slide down on there for you. It takes a little bit of pressure, but give it a good pull, and make sure it's not going to separate. Then we can twist this a little bit to get our plug lined up properly. That looks good. It'll slide right down in there. All right. Now, the second location. We're going to have to take that hose clamp off that's right there. We can just use like a pair of needle-nose. Just squeeze that clamp together. It's going to click in the open position. Now with our clamp opened up, we'll go ahead and wiggle it off that connection point. All right. Now we kind of pull it down here a little bit where we can kind of work on it. Now we'll take another length of hose, and to each end, we're going to push in the small end of our end line connectors. We'll feel where that ends. It'll be about right there. Put our T just back from that. We'll want to cut it right there in the middle of that T. Right there. Get our T slid into place. Then next we'll be adding in our check valve right there in the middle. Then we'll put our check valve in. Again, we want the black side to be facing toward the engine. Slide it right in there. Make sure it has a good connection. Now we'll separate that hose right in the middle, as straight as we can get it, and take one of the provided hose clamps. Slide it over our line kit that we've made. We're going to slide that right into where that elbow was. Once you've got that all the way in, put the hose clamp over it, and we can clamp that down. All right. That one nice and secure. Bring in our other side. We still got our clamp on. You can push it together as well. Go ahead and get our clamp on there and tighten it down. As you can see here, trying to make our connection, it just puts too much of a strain or too much of a bend in the hose that we've added in, so what we're going to do, separate it here just past our check valve. We're going to replace this length of hose with one that's longer, so hopefully we can make a loop around and make our connection. Now, take our slightly longer hose that we've trimmed off there. Add that onto our check valve. Then we'll just try to make a gentle loop around. That way, we're not putting too much stress on that system. Go ahead and press our hose onto our factory fitting there. Then we'll just open up that clamp and allow it to close. You can do that just by kind of prying up on it. Make sure it's nice and secure. We don't have any major kinks to deal with. Now, we can run our vacuum line from our operating unit right over to our T. All right. That connection is made. Now, we're ready to get our breakaway switch taken care of. We're going to use the Tow Ready Short Universal Mounting Bracket. This is part number 18140. We're going to mount it right to the bottom of the base plate. We'll be able to line that hole up right there below the pre-drilled holes that we're going to have to enlarge just slightly. That'll keep our breakaway switch firmly mounted to the base plate itself without having to drill into it, and it'll be just about flush with the front of our wiring connection here, so everything will look nice and uniform. Let's go ahead and enlarge that hole out to 1/4 inch. Then bring our bracket right up into position. Now, we're going to take our clamp, bring it right around the base plate. Bring our bracket into position. Then we'll just tighten down our screw there, get it nice and secure. See, that's going to be nice and solid. We'll trim off that excess. Then we'll mount our breakaway right there. It's got a nylon lock-nut that'll go on the bottom. Then it's just a matter of tightening it down. Now, we'll just kind of tape these together so it'll be easier to route. Then we can run it up through our bracket, and then right up here where we need to make our connections. Now, we can use a couple zip ties just to keep it nice and tidy. Now, we're ready to start making our electrical connections. What I want to do is clean up this first length of wire. We're not going to be making any connections in this area, so let's go ahead and get it wrapped up nicely. That way, it'll look clean. We won't have just a bunch of wires hanging out up here on top of the engine. We're going to run this along the vacuum line that runs to the T to start. Get a couple of zip ties just to keep it from moving around too much. Now, you got to remember, we're putting that battery back in here, so we can't just run this right over here and make our connections. We'll make most of our connections right back there. Let's go ahead and tape it off a little bit more. Clean those zip ties off; trim off the excess. Now, we're going to start with that red wire that came from our brake switch. Let's get that stripped back. This is going to connect, in this application, to the blue wire that comes out of the operating unit, so let's go ahead and trim that where we need it and strip both ends there. On the end that we've cut off our tag end, we're going to strip that back pretty far and double it up. We'll add a yellow butt connector to that. Get that crimped down really well. Let that sit for just a second. We'll get our red wire and our blue wire. Remember, now, this is the red wire that comes from our monitor light, not the red wire that comes out of the G-Force controller. Get those twisted together. Then that yellow butt connector will go on and connect both of those. Now, we'll separate the wires coming from our G-Force controller out. The red wire is going to connect directly into the red wire coming from the operating unit. The black wire is going to connect directly to the black. Let's get both of those connected. We've got a little bit of excess there we can just trim off from both our red and our black, and we can strip the ends of those. We'll use the provided blue butt connectors and connect our wires together, red to red, black to black. Now, our green wire and our yellow wire that come out of the inside of the vehicle from that G-Force controller need to be connected in-line with the green wire and the yellow wire that are coming from our towed vehicle; that's what powers our lights on the back of the car. What we're going to do is separate these off. Use a little screwdriver. We'll do like a razor knife here. This is like a clear plastic sheathing that goes around those wire, all 4 of those, holding them together. Just separate that a little bit. Be careful not to cut our wires. We don't want to do any damage there, but we do want to get it separated. Just like that. What we'll do is take that yellow wire, and we're going to splice it just like that. Strip one end off just to normal length. The other end, we're going to strip off about double-length. Then the yellow wire coming from our G-Force controller, we're also going to trim off to about normal length. Just like that. Now, just because they're both coming from the same direction, I'm going to just take my G-Force controller wire and the wire that runs to the back of the car and twist these together. Use another yellow butt connector to go on there. Crimp it down. We'll take our wire we stripped, our double-long, double it up and put it in the other side of that butt connector. Now, not only is this wire going to send the signal all the way through to the back of the car, which it was originally doing, it's also going to send that signal into that G-Force controller so it can operate properly. Now we'll do the exact same thing with our green wire here, only splicing it into the green wire. Now, for our white wire here, we want to splice into it as well, but it's a little bit different process. Cut that one. We can strip back both ends. We can trim that G-Force controller white wire back a little bit too. We'll take one side of the ground wire that runs toward the rear of the vehicle and twist that together with our G-Force controller, where we're going to add a butt connector. Now, we can take the provided excess white wire that's going to come with the kit. We'll strip it back. Twist these two together, and those are going to go in the other side of our butt connector. All right. Go ahead and tape everything up. All right, now we're going to be ready to connect our 2 blue wires together. This is the blue wire that comes from our operating unit. This is the blue wire coming from our breakaway switch, so let's get those trimmed. We'll strip both sides back. We'll add in one of our provided butt connectors. Now, for our brown wire, this is going to be connected to the orange and black wire, but it's also going to run back to the battery. This tag end will go through our fuse holder, and that'll go to the positive side of the battery. Let's go ahead and trim our brown wire. Strip back both ends there and twist those together. Add on a yellow butt connector. Crimp that down. To the other side, we'll run in our orange and black wire. Just strip that back plenty; that way, we can double it up and get a good connection in our butt connector. All right, now let's go ahead and tape each of those up. The same thing for our brown wire. All right, now that's going to take care of that. Let's run the end of our brown wire back the way we ran our brown and blue wire when we brought it down. To this, we're going to add our fuse holder. As you can see, no fuse in it at this time. That'll be one of the last things that we're going to do. Cut this at about the 4:00 position, 4:00 or 4:30. Then we'll strip both ends of that back. Now, the longer side of that, we're going to put a butt connector on. Bring in our brown wire. We can trim a little bit of that off. Strip it back double. Put that in the other side of the butt connector. Crimp that. Tape that butt connector up. Now, we'll take one of our provided ring terminals and slide it right down on our wire. Crimp it off as well. Now, we'll get our battery hold-down put into position here. Now, in order to keep the battery from draining down while we're heading down the road in tow mode, we need to disconnect our positive battery terminal. Now, you can simply just pull it off and let it sit aside here, but then we won't have the connection for the braking system itself. What we're going to do, remove the 2 cables from the bottom of our terminal here. Just pull this sheathing off. We want to be careful not to actually cut into our cables; we just want to cut that protective cover off the outside there. We'll pull that up far enough to where we can see the end of both of our cables. Then we can use just a pair of side cutters and trim those off as close as possible to our terminal itself. Now, we're going to modify our bracket here by trimming off that end. Now, we're going to mount the Bulldog cut-off switch right in the middle of that slightly raised area you can see there. See the indention of it here on the back side. We need to drill a hole large enough to pass that through right in the center there. Now, for our dual cables that ran to the terminal, let's go ahead and cut that sheathing back a little bit here. That'll allow us to separate those slightly. Then we'll strip the ends off both of them. With those strip back, we'll just kind of twist our wires up a little bit here. Then we'll take a couple of 4-gauge terminal ends and get those crimped right on there. We can just crimp that right down on there. There's one. We'll take care of the other one. Now we can take our terminal, slide that right down over the bolt. Use of the nuts to get that tightened down. All right, now with that one nice and secure, you secure it to the 2 terminal ends that we've added. Place that right down on our battery. We want to leave just a little bit of space in here to slide in our ring terminal that'll be from our fuse holder. Now, that nut's not going to come all the way off there without kind of stripping out, so what we do, we're going to take the ring terminal, just make 2 small cuts just like that. Then we can slide the power wire on from our brown wire that comes from our operating unit. Get it snugged down just like that. Now, with our key in the on position, we're going to have full lights, full battery power running through our terminal. As soon as we turn that off and remove it, we'll lose the power running through here, so we don't have to worry about the rest of the car having power, but we've still got it coming to our braking system here. We've also got our air line that's going to run into the inside portion of the vehicle. We'll get it tucked underneath there, kind of keep it out of the way. Bring it right up, and plug it into the side of the operating unit. As we do this, we want to hear 2 little clicks. Then we want to be able to pull on it and it not come back out to us. There we go. We'll tape up that butt connector that's on our fuse holder here, that brown wire. Then we ought to be able to use a couple zip ties here just to kind of gather that up. This would be a great time to get the fascia put back on the car. You'll want to look at the instructions for your base plate. It should tell you in there exactly how to do it. Now, it's time to mount up our actuator. This mounts directly to the brake pedal. It's going to be squeezed between the 2 plates here that are held on by the 4 bolts. Now, we need to mount this high enough so that we don't interfere with it when we're hitting our brakes. Typically, in an emergency situation, you hit your brakes with the ball of your foot there, so let's just do a quick test. I've got a mark here that we can kind of use just as a guide. We'll see exactly where that's going to make impact. See, with our mark being here, we've got a good about an inch and a half below that we can mount. Right in that area, it should work out just fine. Let's just mock it up there. We'll have it mounted about right there. That should keep us up and out of the way, and we want the block . See, that wire runs through that block in a double loop. We're going to mount that right to the firewall of the vehicle, and we'll want that to be about an inch below the back side bottom of the actuator. That's going to put us right up in this area here. What we need to do is get rid of the carpet and also the foam pad of that fabric pad that's behind it so we can get a sturdy mounting surface. Let's just take a square out. Now that we've got this spot cleared out, right here where we're going to be mounting too, let's mock it up there again. What we're looking for is about an inch and a half of slack when we move this table side to side once we've got it mounted up against our firewall. To adjust it, what we can do is loosen the Allen screw that we've got right here and just slide that cable in or out. Now, we want to be sure that once we've got it, we double it back around. We run that screw down until it makes contact, and then we'll go one additional turn. It's got teeth in the face of it, so we don't want to go too tight. Once it makes contact, 1 more turn. That's going to be set. At that point, we can take the provided self-tapping screw. That's going to go right through our bracket, our block, right into the firewall of the vehicle. Now, before we get our mounting bracket on the firewall, let's go ahead and take off the 4 nuts on the back side of the actuator here, and we can pull off 1/2 of the clamp. Let's let that sit to the side for now. Lock in position there. We can bring our actuator right up to our pedal, slide our plate back on, and we can put our 4 nuts back on there. All right, now we're going to use a cross pattern. Start tightening up our bolts. You can see here our plate just flexed around that pedal a little bit nice and securely. We won't have to worry about that going anywhere. We'll just kind of measure out our air line here where we're going to need it. We'll use a tubing cutter. We want to get a nice square cut on it. Now, if you don't have a tubing cutter at home, this is part number F9009. It'll give you a nice square cut and make sure you don't have any leaks. Then we just want to press that in. You'll hear 2 small clicks, and then we'll be able to pull back out on it without it sliding out. Now, we'll take the provided 20-amp fuse, place it right into our fuse holder, and then slide the cap over it. All right, let's go ahead and test out the system. The first thing we want to do is flip our switch into the on position. Then we'll pull our breakaway switch and listen for system activation. It should run for about 10 seconds. Slide the breakaway switch back in, and it should stop. Now, with our vehicle sitting on a flat surface, we're going to hook up our tow wiring. Then we can step on the brake in the coach, and we want to see the red monitor light come on on our rear-view mirror. Now, we've confirmed that the red lights come on when we hit our brakes in the coach. The next thing we want to do is, with our knob in the most sensitive or more sensitive area, have them apply the brakes in the coach again. We're then going to adjust this up. It'll pulsate just a little bit until the system deactivates. Once we've confirmed where the system completely shuts off at, we'll go up 1/8 inch and then tighten down our knob. Okay. The system's completely shut off at that point. Go up 1/8 inch. We can tighten down that knob. Now, we can go out and drive the coach, take it for a test drive. We want to make sure that we fine-tune our adjustments just as it says to in our instructions. That's going to complete the installation of the SMI Stay-N-Play Duo, the proportional supplemental braking system, part number SM99251 on our 2015 Ford Edge.Speaker 2: You can find this and everything else right here at etrailer.com. What's up, man.


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