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Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 BMW X5

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How to Install the Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch on a 2015 BMW X5


Hi, there BMW owners. Today on your 2015 BMW X5, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Stealth Hitches two-inch trailer hitch receiver. We're gonna be installing the full tow package today, so that's gonna include your wiring as well. But if you just got the regular Stealth Hitch, you could still follow along with us as the installation of the hitch portion is gonna be the same. And this is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. That's right, with the Stealth Hitch, it is completely hidden.

You can't see the receiver here at the back whatsoever. Here are the potential receivers that you could have. We've got a regular two-inch receiver here. And this is what you'll get if you have just the regular Stealth Hitch that you purchase. If you purchase the Stealth Hitch with the entire towing package, you'll also receive a drawbar here with a two-inch ball.

So, when you're ready to use your Stealth Hitch, it's as simple as removing the cover here at the bottom. And if this is the first time you're using your Stealth Hitch, when you remove this cover, you'll also find your keys are located behind it as well. It can be a little stiff, there's our keys in there. We've got our cover out of the way. We're gonna start with our receiver here, but they both installed the exact same way.

You're simply just gonna take your receiver, push it up, until it clicks into place. And there's a locking mechanism on one side. We wanna make sure that we press in on that lock tab to lock it in place before actually using our receiver. So here you can see what it looks like with our receiver installed. It is gonna be a Class 3, two-inch by two-inch receiver, so it's gonna be great for, just about all of your accessories that you would want out there.

This receiver here is not designed for towing though, you do wanna keep that in mind, with the Stealth Hitch, that the receiver is just for accessories. You don't wanna put anything in it that has wheels that'll contact the ground. That's what our drawbar here is for. So, if you are planning on doing towing like that, then you wanna make sure you get the full tow package. So, that way, you'll have this, as well as the necessary wiring for any lights you'd have on your trailer. Now, if you've purchased a full tow package, before you can use your drawbar, you need to assemble the ball into it. So, we're just gonna take our draw bar here. We're gonna drop the ball down through the top. On bottom, we're gonna slide up the lock nut, and then secure it with the nut. Once you get this hand tight, this is much easier if you have a vise. Because this is a pretty high torque spec that you'll need to get to, to get this ball on here. So, once we get that started on there, we can drop our ball down into our vise here. And we're gonna clamp it around the flat spot on the ball. We can then torque our nut to the specifications outlined within our instructions. And I like to do it like this, so I can keep a hold of the drawbar, so I can keep it all lined up. It just looks nicer in the end if it's like that. The receiver uses a 5/8-inch hitch pin and clip. Now, one doesn't come included with the hitch, but you've got plenty of options here at etrailer, as well as locking ones to protect your investments. On bottom, we have hoop-style safety chain loops. And they're tucked up kinda high, and that's what makes it so stealthy, is that it's so far up in there. And if we take a closer look at our safety cable loops here, we can see it has a kind of a small opening. Our smaller safety chain has no problem in there. Some of your larger chains, however, this one here does fit and you can see that it, you will still be able to utilize it. But some of those larger ones may be a little bit more difficult to get those inserted on there. So, we do have quick links available here at etrailer, if you do need to extend those down for larger safety chains. Now, you do wanna keep in mind that if you purchase just the Stealth Hitch with the receiver rack here, you're not gonna get your drawbar or the safety cable attachments. So, if you're planning on towing, you're gonna need those safety cable attachments that's only gonna come with the full towing kit. So, just keep that in mind, if you wanna use your hitch for more than just accessories. And now, to help you when deciding on your accessories, I've got some measurements for you. From the center of our hitch pinhole to the edge of our rear bumper, it's right at maybe about a half an inch. It's very close with the back of our bumper here. That's important when determining if any of your accessories will contact the bumper when inserted, and if they can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper. And from the ground to the top inside edge of our receiver tube, it measures about 14 inches. And this is important when determining if you need a raised shank on your accessories. This one does sit up pretty high, with a raised shank, it's not gonna hurt. When using the rack receiver, it does have a maximum tongue weight of 600 pounds. And that's the force going down on top of the receiver. And that's plenty of weight. That's enough weight if you wanted a four-bike platform rack, fully loaded up with four bikes, you should be able to do that with this hitch. As well as loading up the largest cargo carrier here at etrailer, all the way up to the maximum carrying capacity of the carrier. Now, this is not rated for towing, so we can go ahead and remove this guy out of here. We're just gonna twist the knob to the release position, that just drops out of there. It locks in the release position, which makes it more convenient for inserting your new accessory here. We're gonna put the drawbar in now, and it just clicks into place. Again, you'd wanna hit the lock button on there before putting this into service, before hooking up to your trailer in that. With our drawbar in here, we do have slightly different weight ratings. The drawbar has a 800 pound tongue weight. So, you do get all about 200 more pounds with the drawbar here. So, it's got that extra capacity if the trailer you've got has a little bit heavier tongue weight. And it also has an 8,000 pound gross towing capacity, which is how much that it can pull behind it. And that should be more than enough to do just about anything you'd wanna do with your X5 here. Whether you're wanting to bring a boat with you, or maybe a small camper, or just get a little bit of work done. Maybe you're moving around, you should be able to do what you need to get done here. But as always, I recommend you verify in your vehicle's owner's manual, and ensure you don't exceed any of its towing capacities. The drawbar is gonna come with a two-inch ball in the tow package kit. So, as long as your trailer has a two-inch coupler on it, you should have no problem hooking up. There are other balls available here at etrailer, if you do need a different size for your particular trailer, you could swap that out yourself. If we take a look underneath here, we can see the mechanism here. This is our latch box, that allows us to remove our accessories, whether we're using the drawbar or the receiver end. To release it, you'll simply twist the knob, and then it'll lock into place, and your accessories will slide right out. You can then swap it out to another one. If we push it up, you'll see that the handle will click back into position, and it locks it into place there. However, if you look at the other side here from our release handle, we've got our lock over here. And it's currently in the unlocked position where it's extended out. Before using either the receiver end or the drawbar, you wanna make sure you got it locked in, so just push that in place. And then, we can put the dust cap over it, which is a good indicator that you've got it pushed in, 'cause the dust cap doesn't fit very well when it's popped out. So, you can get that all the way on there. And at this point, you're ready to hook up and hit the road. You will receive two keys with your kit for your accessories. So, that way, you can keep one of your key set and have one as a spare at home. We're gonna unlock our accessory. We're just gonna put the key in and twist it there, and you can see that it popped out, showing that it's unlocked. We can then remove our accessory. And if we're not gonna be doing any towing, or bringing any bike racks, or anything like that with us, we can reinsert the rubber plug here in the bottom. That'll help keep dirt debris and moisture out of our latch mechanism when we're not using it, so we can ensure a long lasting operation of our hitch here at the back. And it returns us to that factory look, once again. If you purchase the full tow package Stealth Hitch, you'll also receive wiring included with your hitch. This is gonna provide you with a seven-pole connector, here at the back, so you can have all the necessary lighting signals for your trailer. Which includes your left-turn signal, right-turn signal, tail lamps and brake lamps. With it being a seven-way, it also has a charge line on it, so you can charge the battery on your accessories for whatever you're bringing with you. Or even power it up if it's maybe for some type of power accessory. And there's also room in there for circuits for a surge brakes if you've got it for backup lights. As well as for a trailer brake controller if you wanted to do install one as well. But you do wanna keep in mind that a trailer brake controller will likely need additional wiring to get the brake controller itself installed. This is just the circuit that will allow it to go from the brake controller to our seven-way, so it's already got that wire there for us. Also, included with your kit, you're gonna receive a seven-wire to four-wire adapter. So, if you've got a four-pole flat trailer connector on your trailer, you can easily connect it to the seven-way here at the back of your vehicle with this adapter. Now, we've covered some of the features of our hitch. Why don't you follow along with me in the shop and we'll show you how to get it installed. This one is a little bit more difficult than some of the other hitches out there, but you can see the results, it is a much cleaner look. We'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle. We've got our lift gate open, and the small tailgate down here. We're gonna be removing the taillight assemblies on each side. And to do that, we'll need to remove the access panel here on the inside. There's a small handle here, so you just kinda pull that back and we can set that aside. On the inside, if you're removing that panel, we're gonna reveal a couple of studs here with nuts on them, we're gonna remove with an eight-millimeter socket. The other side of the vehicle, you're gonna have a panel the exact same way, over there. You'll pull that one off and remove the nuts on that side the same way as well. There are two studs there. You'll use an eight-millimeter socket to remove the nut off of each of those. Once you have the two nuts removed, we can then disconnect the electrical connections located just between those. The release tabs located right there in the middle. It's a pretty small little release tab, that's right there. You may need a small screwdriver to press in on that to get that off. The taillight assembly now will go straight rearward. To remove it, I recommend using a small pry tool. You don't wanna pry it too hard. We just wanna have slight pressure on it, while we're kinda rocking it and pulling it rearward. That's gonna release it off of its tabs. Once you've got it released off of there, it'll just slide off, and then we can set it aside. We're gonna remove the passenger's side the same way by removing that inner panel. Removing these nuts off the studs, and then disconnected our connector. With our taillight assemblies removed, that'll expose a bolt just below the corner there. We're gonna remove that with an eight-millimeter socket. And there's one on the other side in the same location, we'll remove that one as well. We're now on our rear wheel, on the driver's side. There are three rivets here that we need to remove. They made any plastic pushpins on yours. If they are, you can pull out the center, and then just pull the tab out. But we've got rivets here. And if you have rivets, you have to drill these out. So, we're just gonna use an eighth-inch drill bit, go into the center of our rivet and just drill out the center. Once you've drilled out the center of the rivet, you should be able to just pry it right out of there. We'll remove the remaining rivets now, after drilling out the center, and we're gonna do that on the other side as well. We'll now need to pull this trim piece back on each side. There's a tab located down in here. If you have a thin enough plastic tool, you can get it on this side and pressing on the tab. If you don't, you can use a angled pick. We're gonna kinda peel outward on it a bit. And then, you can get it on the backside, and pop out that clip. And here's the clip, if we look at this side that I was talking about here. And you can see, it's just a little bit of a nipple there. And all we we're doing was taking our pick here, and we we're just pulling that little nipple, so this would pop out. We'll then just repeat this, working our way up, until we've got it removed to the point towards just pass this seam here. Now we've got this released, I like to take a rag or this is just some napkin bunched up, and I'll stuff it up behind the trim piece here. And that just kinda holds it away from the vehicle for us. Keep it out of our way. And if we look right here, you'll see that there's a bolt that we need to remove. So, we'll take our eight-millimeter socket, and we'll zip that right out of there. You may need to pull it to the side, just a little bit, in order to get your tool up in there. Now we've got this bolt removed here, we're gonna get the trim piece removed over on the other side and get that bolt out over there as well. Next, we're gonna remove the reflector here at the back. There's one on each side. And to remove it, you can just kinda reach around the backside here, on the reflector. And if we kinda feel along the bottom of the reflector, you're gonna find a small tab there. We're gonna push in on the tab, and then we can push out on the reflector. There we go, we pushed the tab. And then, we can just slide it out like that. This is the tab that I was pushing from the back side. I was pushing up, just a little bit, on that area right there. You really don't even need to see it, just feel for that, and you can push up and out. Behind our reflector, we're gonna have a bolt there, so we're gonna remove that as well. And then, make sure you're doing that on the other side. We're now gonna be underneath the vehicle, and we're gonna remove all the bolts located across the bottom, going around. There'll be a total of six, and we'll use our eight-millimeter socket. Now, at this point, we can start removing our fascia. We're gonna start on the one side by just releasing just this side, so I'll just grab the corner here. And we're just gonna pull outward until we get back here to our taillight assembly. Once you get back here, you're likely gonna need to use a small screwdriver or pick to pop the panel off here. So, we've got a little plastic trim tool here. And if we look, we can see the tabs we need to pry here. We need it to get go pass there. There we go. There's one here as well. And once you get to this point here, go over to the other side and get it released to this point, over there as well. So now, we've got it released to that point on each side. If we lift up on the tailgate here at the back, you'll get a small gap here at the bottom. And we'll need that to be able to release it the rest of the way. If we look right here, these are the remaining tabs that are holding us in place. So, we're gonna keep some slight rearward pressure on it. And then, we might have to pry on those tabs a bit to get it to come off. So, it can be a bit of a little bit of a balancing act here. So, now we've got everything released to this point. With an extra set of hands, we're gonna come back to the center, and we're gonna remove it the rest of the way. We're gonna have to pry up on these tabs, in order to get it to release off of our fascia. You can also, kinda just pull upward on it like that as well, if you're having a difficult time prying it off. And once you get all those ones in the middle released, that's going to come somewhat rearward. You're gonna have a connector here on the passenger's side. So, we're gonna take our connector here, and we're gonna squeeze the tabs that's located on each side. There's one on it on both sides. And then, you can just separate the two pieces. If you're having a difficult time getting it to release, you can use a pick to help pop it up over the ears there. Once you get it off, we can then set our fascia side where it won't get damaged. We'll now need to take out all the bolts holding on our fascia support here. There's gonna be four on each side. We're gonna use a 10-millimeter socket to remove these. We can now take off this section of our fascia support. Towards the center here, you're gonna have a small tab right here, where it's connected. Just push in on that tab, and that kinda just lifts up out of there. So, we're gonna slide this off of those studs, and pop it up out of here. And the wiring cables that are attached to it, they are actually okay. We can just let it hang out of our way, just like that. We're gonna remove the other side, and let that side hang as well. On the passenger's side, we'll have a wire clip here, right onto the bumper beam. We'll need to remove that, so we're just gonna take our trim-panel tool here. Get behind that wire connector, and then just pop that off of there. And then, on our bumper beam, on the top bolts here, you'd likely have these plastic nut covers. These will just unthread from there. We need to unthread these to reveal the bolts, exposing our bumper beam attachment here, 'cause we are gonna be removing the bumper beam. This one here is a little stuck. If they get stuck, you can use a pair of adjustable wrenches or pliers to remove the caps from on here. If you're planning on reinstalling the cap, if we are, you might wanna use the adjustable wrench, so, as not to damage the cap. We'll now take an 18-millimeter socket and remove all the nuts that hold on the bumper beam. The very first one I removed, I like to take this one and just thread it back into place, one or two turns. So that way, when I'm removing the rest of the bolts, even the ones on the other side, I don't have to worry about this fallen off on me. We'll now just get the rest of them off here. So, now we've got all of our nuts removed here, we can take our bumper beam off and we'll set it aside. We can now take our Stealth Hitch, and we're gonna slide this into position. Sliding it over the studs, where our factory bumper beam was. Pay attention to your wiring, down here. We don't want to pinch that behind our hitch. Once you get it slid into place, I just take a nut and get one started on each side, so it'll hold itself up here. That'll make it easier to install the rest of your hardware. We're just reinstalling the factory nuts that we had removed. And we're gonna reinstall the remaining six nuts. We can then snug everything down with 18-millimeter socket. And then, torquing the hardware to the specifications outlined in your instructions. Now, you don't need to reinstall the plastic caps we removed off the studs. But if you did wanna reinstall them, they are gonna be too long now, because of the new Stealth Hitch is thicker than your old bumper beam. So, you are gonna have to trim off about a quarter inch of material, before you can put these back on if you did wanna have them back in place. We're just using some snips to cut this off. You could also probably use a hacksaw. It is kinda flimsy plastic, so the snips would probably be the easiest and safest method. And we can then take a file afterwards, and clean up any of these rough edges, or you can take a razor knife as well. Once you get your caps trimmed down, you can just thread those back into place. We can then also, reinstall our supports that we had removed that are just hanging here off to the side. So, we can just set these back into place as well. And we'll put the other side on as well. We'll now I need to install the latch block. If you purchased just the regular rack receiver stealth hitch, this is what you're gonna get in your kit here. You'll use these bolts to secure your rack receiver. Your latch box here to your receiver, it simply slides up. The bolts will slide from the passenger's side through, towards the driver's side. And you'll notice that we've got the lock over on the driver's side. And then, we would just secure it with the included hardware here. There's a second option though, for your stealth hitch here, you can get just the rack receiver kit, or you can get the full towing package kit. So, we're gonna show you that as well. So, this is just the regular kit here. If you get the full kit, here's our safety cable attachments that you'll receive with it, and you'll receive a longer set of bolts here. These ones are actually longer than the ones that come with the regular kit. Regardless if you're using the longer or the shorter bolts, if you got whichever kit, they slide together pretty much the same. But we just need to pay attention here, so we're just gonna remove these nuts off of here. And then, we'll be taking the safety cable attachments, we're gonna start with that. The small opening here at the bottom, the elongated opening, we want to be towards the front. So, I've got this nice rounded edge here towards the back, so it's gonna be like that. So, we're gonna slide a bolt through our bracket here. We'll then take this, we're gonna go through the latch block. And it looks like here, what we're gonna need to do first is actually slide our end over the receiver there, 'cause of the handle, it doesn't quite fit over it. So, we're gonna slide that over first, and then we'll lift it up and slide our bolt through. It's a lot of pieces here, so it's a bit challenging getting everything lined up. There we go. Once we get one slid through, we'll then take the other bolt. Line these up and slide that one through as well. And then, we're gonna take the other safety cable attachment here. This is gonna slide into place. Looks like we might need to take the rubber cap off of there. There we go. And we'll need to slide our nuts onto the bolts. And we can tighten these down. Now, if you have just the rack receiver set that you've got at home, if you wanted to add an upgrade to the full tow package later, you can do so. And these are the parts that you're gonna be adding here, that we just showed you here. So, you can get those parts separately here at etrailer, if you need those as well. After we slide on the safety cable attachment, on this side, we've got one more piece. This is gonna slide on the rear most bolt. This is for our electrical wiring to attach to, that's gonna wanna kinda hang down. We'll straighten it out when we go to tighten these down. After that, we can put nuts on our bolts, and then snug them down. We'll be using a 19-millimeter socket and wrench to snug these down. We're gonna start with that inner one there, since it doesn't have the bracket on it. And then, our bracket one here, we're gonna do next. We're gonna need a pretty close to being tightened down, and then adjust the bracket, and then we'll finish snugging it up. So, that's a pretty close there. We can now angle it the way that we want to, and finish snugging it down. And sometimes, this takes a little bit of tweaking to get, 'cause we're a little bit passed where we want it to be there, but we're not really super tight just yet. So oftentimes, you can take an adjustable wrench and slide it on there, and twist it into the rotation you need. Now, we can torque our hardware to the specifications outlined in our instructions. We're gonna keep our adjustable wrench on hand here, because as you go to tighten this down, it is likely gonna wanna twist on you there. You can see, we got a little bit of twist already. So, just as we go, we're gonna kinda take our torque wrench off and twist it back into position. So, we'll slide that off of that real quick. And we can use our wrench on one side, and our adjustable wrench here. Twist. And then, we'll continue and torque it down to its specifications. Now, at this point, our hitch is completely installed. If we have just the rack receiver kit with no wiring or anything, we can reinstall our fascia in reverse order of how we removed it. And those rivets that we had drilled out, you're gonna receive push pins to replace those. If you have the full towing package kit, then we've got some wiring to do as well to get this installed. And if you're, if you have just the rack kit but you're maybe planning on adding the full towing package kit later on, you might wanna follow along with us as well. We're gonna be starting inside here, so we're just gonna hop in here. The compartment located right here, we'd already removed this to get our taillight out. A tray here at the bottom, we'll need to remove. We're gonna use our trim panel tool to pry up the center of the push pin, that's holding it in place. And once the center's pried up, you can then get underneath the entire push pin, and pull it out of there. We're gonna do this with the one located over here on the other side as well. And then, we can get this whole tray pulled up. And one of the third pin, at the center here in the back as well. We can just pull the tray up, and then set that aside. So, what you're looking at here is a grommet, located just above the exhaust tailpipe on the passenger's side of the vehicle. This is on the outside, right here, where we're looking. And from the inside, just where we had removed that bolt tray, we're gonna push this grommet out from the inside. So, I'm just gonna stick my hand in there, in that opening that we had just made, and we're just poking that right out. We'll wanna make sure we grab this grommet, 'cause we are gonna modify it, and reuse it to help seal this hole back up. We'll then take our grommet. We're gonna drill a 3/8 hole in the center of the grommet. This will allow us to pass our wiring through, to get to the outside. So now, we'll take the wiring harness that comes in our kit. You get your module box here. And you can see it's got some wires coming off on the side, and it's got another bundle here that's all wrapped up in a loom. We're gonna take the wires that are wrapped up in the loom here. And these are gonna pass through that opening, where we just pulled out that grommet. So, I'm just feeding the wires down, and I'm just coming out that opening, where we had pulled the grommet out. So, our wires are just gonna poke through the grommet, through the opening, and we're just gonna feed it on down. Once you've got it through, we can head over to that side, and we can take our grommet, we're gonna slide it back into position. So now, we'll just take our grommet, we're gonna slide it over our wires. And that's just gonna slide down the loom here. This is gonna get routed over towards the center of our hitch, so we can make it our connection there, our connector. Our grommet, we'll then just push right back in place. Next, we need to get access to our battery compartment, which is gonna be located underneath this tray here. Just lift that up. And then, this cover here has five bolts in it, we're gonna take out with an eight-millimeter socket. Just push that back out of our way there. And now, we can easily get our wires pass as we need to, and make our connections to our battery here. We then took the yellow wire that's coming out of our module. You're gonna have, there's four wires here. You have yellow, green, brown, and red. So, the yellow one is gonna go all the way across, over towards the driver's side. We're just kinda routing it back, tucking it behind these batteries as we go. And it's gonna route up towards our factory wiring harness here. Once we find our factory wiring harness here, we wanna focus on the black wire with the white stripe. And it's kinda an off-white color. You can see it there, that's the wire that we need to tap into. And we can also do this further on down the line, which is probably what we're gonna do 'cause it'll likely be easier for us. And the all length of wire that we have, if we do it further down. So, we're just gonna come right down here, and separate out that black wire with the white stripe, right there. So, we've got just that wire. You'll receive some quick splices in your kit. That's what these look like here. We're gonna take the black wire. We're gonna line that up with one slot of our quick splice. And then, we're gonna take the yellow wire that we routed over and we're gonna line that up with the other slot in our quick splice. And then, put the top to our quick splice into place, and it might even click on you. But after it clicks, you still aren't all the way there yet. It does need to be all the way squeezed down until it's flush. So, we're gonna take our pliers here, and just squeeze it until it is flush there. So, now that we've got this connection made over here, we can head back over to the passenger's side for the rest of our wires. So, now we're over on the passenger's side, and this is our taillight connector over here. It's got three wires that go to it. We need two of the wires over here on the passenger's side. We need the one in the same pin location, as on the driver's side. 'Cause if I'm this side, it's going to be a black with a gray stripe, instead of white. So, we're gonna go ahead and separate that out. I'm trying to do it towards the bottom here, 'cause it's just gonna be a little bit easier for us to reassemble our taillight assemblies and stuff. There's still length to move this around when our wires are connected down here. So, we're gonna need that black with the gray, that's gonna connect to our green wire. And then, we also need the gray with the yellow stripe. That's gonna connect to the brown wire from our module. So, we're just pulling those two out of there, and then we'll grab our quick splices. It's gonna be very similar to how it was over on the other side. We're gonna slide our factory wire over one end there. And this is the black and gray, so this is gonna be our green wire from our module. So, we're gonna grab that green wire here. These we're already pre-stripped. I recommend cutting anything that's pre-stripped off, 'cause we don't want those ends to accidentally short on something, since we are using the quick splices. So, we're just gonna get that out of there. And then, we'll take our two wires there, get them into place. Slide the cover over like we did before. And then, finish crimping it down. The red wire's not used, so we're just gonna trim that one off. And then, the brown wires that was gonna connect to the gray wire with the yellow stripes, we'll trim that one. Grab our other quick splice. Next, we're gonna take the black wire that's coming off of our module, and we brought this one across, following a similar path as our yellow wire. And we're gonna come over to the battery positive, right here. If we lift up on this cover, we can see that there's a stud right here with a nut on it that we can attach our positive wire to. We're not gonna attach the black wire though, directly to our battery. We wanna make sure we've got fuse protection in line. So, we're gonna take our fuse harness that comes in our kit here. We're gonna connect it to our black wire. And if you need to, you can go ahead and trim this to length. We've got ours trimmed already. And we're gonna crimp it on, just like that. So now, we've got our fuse harness attached. Open up your fuse harness and we can see the fuses in there. We don't want the fuse to be installed just yet. We wanna wait until we've got our job fully completed before we put that fuse in, 'cause we don't wanna accidentally cause any shorts. So now, we're gonna remove the nut with a 10-millimeter socket. We'll take our fuse harness, push it up into place. Slide our ring terminal over the stud. And then, just reinstall the nut. Back to our module box, we're gonna grab the white wire coming off of it. We're gonna take the split ring terminal that comes in our kit. We're gonna crimp it on to there. And this is going to attach to the ground stud, located right up here. So, we're just gonna take our 10-millimeter socket. We're gonna zip this nut loose. We may need to have a swivel to get that off of there. And we don't wanna take this nut all the way off. We just need to zip it out, just enough like that, to where we can take our split ring terminal here. Come in on the side, slide it over the stud, just like that, and then we can just reinstall it. We can now take the double-sided adhesive that comes in our kit. We're going to slide off one side. Slide that on to our module. Gonna fix the other side to our module. We can then peel off the backing off of these. And then, we're just gonna look for a location to stick it into. And we've got a lot of large open compartments here. And these will actually work out really well for storing our module. We're just gonna push it up in there. And the adhesive should hold it in place, right in that compartment there for us. Next, we're gonna secure our seven-way bracket to our mount here at the back. We're gonna take the small bolts that come in the kit. Place the flat washer on it. That's gonna slide through the bracket and through our mount. On the other side, we're gonna place a star washer and a nut. And we're gonna do the same thing for the other hole. Now, the wire that came out through the ground, what we did was just route it over, and then poked it through the hole here in our brackets. That way, it's aiming down for us. Next, we need to disassemble our connector here, so we can connect all the wires to it. Let me take out the screw here at the back. There's also a small, a little lock tab that's gonna come out of there as well. And then, we need to take off the screw here on the sides. So, with those screws removed, we can take our connector here. We're gonna stick our screwdriver in the back of it. And we're gonna push the center out of it there, just like that. All of our wires now need to pass down through our assembly there. And now, we can start making our connections here with the wires. We're gonna go ahead and loosen all these up, so we can easily slide these in. So, I've gone ahead and loosened up all the ones that we're gonna be using. The notch here at the bottom is a good guide to help you when you're installing your wires. You can see it here, they're also labeled with a color on them as well. But unfortunately, you're not gonna be able to hook up, just matching colors. It's not gonna function properly doing so. So, we're gonna use this as our guide here at the bottom, we're gonna start going clockwise around it. The first one you're gonna run into is blue. The blue wire's for our brake controller. Were not installing one, so we can go ahead and skip by that. Next, it says, brown here, but this is actually going to connect to the green wire from our kit. So, we're just gonna take the green wire there. Slide it in, and then we'll tighten it back down. We do wanna make sure that when we're snugging this up, that we've got our wire pinched in there and not the sheathing, we don't want the rubber. We wanna make sure we've got good contact with that wire. So, next one is labeled black. That one is indeed, going to be the black wire. Next one, says, green. That's actually going to be our brown wire. After green, it says, red. That's actually going to be our yellow wire. And then, our last wire on here is labeled white. And that is going to be our white wire. Now, there's also the center pin, which we're not gonna be using. That is a reverse light wire, which is typically used for surge brakes on a boat trailer. You would tap that into your reverse light circuit on your vehicle if you we're gonna use it, and run it to the center pin. It's typically a purple wire for that center one. We can now slide our assembly back together. That slit that goes all the way across is gonna be at the bottom. Make sure you get that all the way up in there. Sometimes, you got to twist it some, if it's not cooperating with you. After it has been fully reinserted, we can insert the screws on the sides and tighten those down. That's gonna prevent it from coming out of there again. And if these screws don't screw all the way down, it likely means that you don't have it all the way seated, 'cause they do have little openings. The screw kinda falls down into if it is all lined up. So, if it feels tight, don't force the screw. And then, we can reassemble the wire relief here. We'll now slide our connector up. We want the opening to face towards the rear, like that. And then, we're just gonna take our bolts, we're gonna slide them through. Lining them up with the openings in our bracket, and then securing them with the included nuts. We'll do that with the remaining three bolt and nut assemblies. Now, at this point, we've got everything connected, we can go ahead and insert our fuse into the fuse harness. We now wanna test everything out before we go ahead and reinstall our fascia. It'll be easier now to fix any issues we have. You can plug into your trailer, but I highly recommend using a tester, like you see here. 'Cause in the event you have any faults on your trailer, you can get false readings, thinking that your vehicle has an issue when actually the problem's with your trailer. You can get a tester like this here at etrailer. You can just add it to your cart on checkout. You wanna make sure that you have your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps, and brake lamps. And with all of our signals working properly, we can go ahead and reinstall our components in reverse order of how we removed them. And that completes our installation of the Stealth Hitch on our 2015 BMW X5..


Info for these parts were:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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