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Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Installation - 2020 Audi Q5

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How to Install the Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack on a 2020 Audi Q5


Hi there Audi owners. Herein your 2020 Audi Q5, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Stealth hitches receiver end. We've currently got it installed now and you can't even tell that it's there. I bet you didn't even know at home that we had a hitch on here but the end is removable from the crossbar and it simply clicks into place. Our receiver end just goes right up into the hitch and there it is. You want to press it in the lock on the other side before using your hitch, but now you've got a two inch by two inch receiver for all of your accessory needs.And the cool thing about the Stealth hitch and what gives it its name is that when you're done using your hitch, we twist the lever, the end drops out, you can store it in the compartment at the back of your vehicle and you look factory once again like you don't even have a hitch down there.

Whenever you're planning on using your receiver, you want to make sure that it is locked in. Simply just push in on the tab over here. And that puts it in the lock position and the dust cap is going to keep out any dirt, debris and moisture. Then when you're done, you have to unlock it before you can release it with the knob. On the other side, they'll receive two keys with your kit.So you'll have two separate ones there to unlock it.

And then again, you can twist the lever over on the other side to remove whatever accessory. This two inch by two inch reciever it's going to be great for all of your accessories. And if we go just to the rear that you'll see our hitch pin hole here. For this receiver, it's going to be a 5As inch hitch pin and clip. Now one doesn't come included with the Stealth hitch, but we've got plenty of different pins available here @etrailer.com.

You can get walking ones to protect your accessories as well as anti-rattle devices to ensure that you don't have any rattles going on with your accessories here at the back. And this receiver here has got to have a 750 pound tongue weight, which is the force going down on top of our receiver. And that's going to be more than enough for just about anything you would want to use this for.And you could load up a four bike platform rack fully loaded up with four bikes, or you could have the largest cargo carrier available here at each trailer fully loaded up to capacity and this hitch can handle it with no problem. Now, as far as our tow rating, there is not on this. This receiver is not rated for towing, so you don't want to put your drawbar in there with a ball.

This is really just for accessories, such as your bike racks, your cargo carriers, really anything else that doesn't have wheels attached to it that you're going to pull behind you. Now don't fret if you do want to tow with your Stealth hitch, we do have a tow package available here at each trailer. It's going to give you a different draw bar here. So instead of having our receiver end, you're going to get a drawbar that goes directly into the hitch and it comes with the two inch ball so you can do some towing.That one is rated for towing. It is the same receiver. So you can either purchase them as a kit together to have the full tow package once you go to install it, or you could purchase the receiver package like we installed here and then upgrade it to the tow package later on down the road. You don't have to remove the whole fascia the parts we'll just click in. Included with the tow package you'll also receive wiring so that way your trailer that you're pulling behind you, can have the proper lighting, keeping you DAT compliant in all states. Now I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories. From the center of our hitch pin hole to the edge of our rear bumper, it actually sticks out past the rear bumper by about a half an inch.This is important when determining if any of your accessories will contact the bumper when inserted or placed into their upright storage position. And from the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube, it measures about 15 inches. And this is important when determining if you need a raised shank on your accessories and this one sits pretty high so it's not a necessity with this hitch, but it's still a good option to have on your accessories to give you extra clearance if you're planning on going in any rough terrain, maybe in the mountain areas. And I do have one more measurement here for you. Just if you're planning on leaving your receiver in all the time, you want to keep in mind that it does stick out by three inches past the bumper so when you're walking by at the back, you do have the potential to rattle your shins on there.Again, it's a Stealth hitch though. So it's as simple as turning a lever and removing that hazard. Now that we've covered some of the features of our hitch, I want you to follow along with me in the shop and we'll get it installed together. Now I'm not going to lie to you, this is a little bit more of a difficult install than a lot of your standard hitches due to the Audi requiring us to remove the whole fascia here at the back. And you can't completely disconnect it, you have to leave it to the wiring. We're going to show you some tricks to get it on there without causing any damage and giving you too much headache.We'll begin our installation here at the back of the vehicle with our lift gate open. That's going to expose the fasteners underneath. There's one on each side, and we're going to remove those with a T-20 Torx socket. Well, then take out the other side as well. Now in our compartment back here, we're going to remove our cover. It's just the holes out of there, we'll set this aside and then we can pull up on our rear threshold here. This is just going to pull straight up so you can get your hands underneath of it. Sometimes it helps to use a trim panel tool to help get things started.And it does just pull up so I'm just going to work our way across, just gently pulling it up and we can set this aside. We'll need to remove our spare tire, our jack and the components here. So just remove those, the spare tires held in with the nut in the middle here. Once you remove the center section, we can disconnect the electrical connector. I'm just going to pull out on the tab, a screwdriver works well. Then we can press down on the release tab right there, and then you can pull it out. We'll then set this aside and we can pull the tire up and set that aside as well. We also need to lift up on the tie-down hooks. You'll have four of these, one on each corner of the storage compartment back here. We'll then use our screwdriver to pop up the plastic cover and then we can remove the single bolt found inside.These are going to be a special socket. You're going to need triple square sockets to complete this. You can get those at your local automotive store. Sometimes they are a special order. So we're going to use our eight millimeter try square, and we're going to remove this bolt and these three remaining ones that are underneath the tow hooks. Once we've got all those removed, we can pull the whole assembly, the foam and everything that our spare tire was in out of our compartment. Now, with all that hardware removed, we can pull up on these end caps here, pull those off. After we get those out of the way, we can take these side panels off, just turn the knob. And then these will just pull out of there. You may have an electrical connector behind them. So just go slow if you do.And it's just going to have a release tab you're going to press in and then you can separate that. And now to get the center section out, we're going to pull out a couple of the pieces. We can pull out on that. I'm going to remove the air pump out of the way. That's going to allow us to pull up slightly on the outside here and then we can work this side towards the center. That will allow us to then kind of lift it up slightly, kick it over to the other side and we can get it worked off of there. It is a really tight fit but if you just go slow you can get the whole piece out of there.We can now remove the grommets exposing the harbor we need to remove. You have a grommet here more towards the center and one just to the outside of it. We're concerned with the slightly larger ones just to the outside. We're going to get our trim panel tool or screwdriver behind the grommet and then just pop it out of there. We'll do the same thing with the one on the other side. And in here, you're going to have your stud with the nuts we need to remove. We'll also remove the side compartments and just inside the compartment you'll find a hole with no grommet in it and that's where the stud is. There's a total of four of these going across, we're going to remove the nuts on those using a 10 millimeter socket.Once you get the nut removed, there's an extremely long portion of the shaft that doesn't have any threads on it. So the nut often wants to just hang up on that. It's loose so we're just going to take our magnet, stick it in there to pull it off that long part of the shaft with no threads. We'll repeat that for the three remaining nuts. On the inside of our wheel well here just behind the rear tire, it's hard to see but there's a little tiny kind of indention in the material here for your liner. There's a Torx right there, we're going to remove it with a T-25 Torx socket.I'm just going to get back out of there. Once we get it removed, this will allow us to peel back the fender liner here to expose more hardware that we're going to be removing as well. So we're just going to pull this up. We can kind of use the tire to help hold it out of the way for us, kind of wedge it up against that tire. And that way it'll stay back out of the way. And in here, there are more torics that we'll need to remove. You can see there's one there, one here and then for that third one, you're going to have to keep pulling the fender liner back along the inside edge here to reveal one pretty high up. This is close to the top of the tire here if you we're just going straight back. We'll remove those with the same size Torx socket.We can now take our trim piece here and we're going to pull out on it. And if you get your hands behind here, there is a tab you can kind of push in just a little bit on that tab while pulling out and that's going to release, and we're just going to continue that working our way up until we have this removed all the way up to this seam right here. And you just take your time and go slow it. Each one is kind of its own little challenge because it's just a tight fit.And then once you get so far up, it just wants to start to pop out pretty easy after that point. Once we get up to here, I'm going to take a paper towel or rag and I'm going to bunch it up and stuff it in here and that's going to hold the trim out away from our components so it won't be in our way. And I'm just making this off a wedge right here.I'll just slide up in there and you can see how that holds it out so we can easily get our hands in here to remove the fascia. There's also one bolt that was exposed right here, we're going to remove that as well. And this is also going to be a T-25 Torx. Once we have this bolt removed, we're going to perform these same procedures over on the other side. We're now underneath the vehicle and you're going to have four bolts that run across the bottom here along the back. We're going to use our T-25 once again to remove these. We can now start to remove our fascia. We're going to come in on one side. We're going to grab the fascia here by the corner and we're just going to start working it out. Just kind of pull outward with it, working it towards the back.And once you've got it snapped to this point here, we're going to go to the other side and we're going to snap it loose to this point as well. Now that we've got it released on both sides, we can come back to the center here and we're going to start to remove it. It does get like to get hung up on those studs that we're on the inside. So it's kind of what you're fighting, it just goes duds. There we go. Once you get the one side broke loose, just work your way over to the other, keep holding up on it. And you might notice that I slid a cart underneath the vehicle here in front of me right here at the back, because we cannot disconnect this fascia completely from the vehicle like you would do on most vehicles. This one needs to remain connected electronically or else codes will set and it will have to return to the dealer for service.So we're just going to take this guard and we're going to set it down just like that. Now, if you're at home doing this on the ground, you can just set your fascia onto something that's not going to damage it. The box that your hitch came shipped in is a great soft material that you can set it on. Now that we've got the fascia out of the way, we've exposed our bumper beam here, we're going to be removing this beam. There's four bolts on each side that hold it on. We're going to use a 16 millimeter socket to remove these.And what I like to do after removing the first bolt on each side, I try to pick one that's easy to get to because I'm going to re-thread that bolt in just a couple of turns. So this way, as we take out the rest of the bolts, there's no chances this can just fall off of here because the bolt that we got in a couple of threads is going to hold it up there. So now I'm just going to remove the rest of the hardware on this side. We'll then go over to the other side, set up one bolt like that and remove the hardware over there.You will likely need an extension for the lower bolts here because you have to go through the opening in the beam. So we got all the hardware was removed, you can see it's loose. The top support beam here is also on that. It's going to come off with it. So we can now take those off. We're going to go ahead and loosen up that bolt that we had left loose. We'll set that down and then we're just going to hold onto this side, walk over to this side, remove this bolt, and then we'll set the whole assembly aside.Before we go ahead and raise our hitch up, we're going to prepare the hardware, it'll make it easier to install it. You're going to have eight of these shorter bolts. You're going to slide on a lock washer on each one and then follow that up with a washer on each one. Now for the next set of hands, we're going to take our bumper beam and our hitch here. We're going to put the two together like this and then slide one bolt through. That'll help keep the two together as we raise them up as an assembly and we're just going to get one bolt started on each side. That'll hold up the hitch and the beam, making it easier to install the rest of our hardware.With one bolt on each side, holding up the hitch, we can install the rest of our hardware. We're going to get each one in, start it by hand first and then we can go back and tighten them down with a 17 millimeter socket. We can then go back and torque our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. We can now install our center section onto our Stealth hitch. The handle is going to point towards the passenger side and the lock mechanism is going to point towards the driver's side. We're going to hit the long bolts and from the passenger side, we'll slide our unit up, lining up the holes, take the bolt, slide it through. And then on the other side, we're going to follow that up with a nylon locking nut. We'll then do the same thing with the other hole here. We can then go back and tighten them up using a 19 millimeter socket wrench.We can then go back and torque our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. With our hitch installed in all of our components torque down, we can reinstall our fascia and all of our other components that we'd removed in reverse order of how we removed them. When reinstalling your fascia, if you remember the nuts that we had removed here on the inside we had to use a magnet to get them off, it's extremely difficult to get the nuts back in. So what I found works really well, if you take your socket and your nut and then just a small piece of napkin, you can set the napkin over the socket, take the nut and push it down into the socket.The napkin is going to take up that extra space to make it a tighter fit, and you can see the nuts not going to fall out of there so we can then easily slide it on our tool, go in the hole, line it up over the stud and then tighten it down. Now the napkin may stay inside of here, it's not going to make any rattle noises or anything so it's perfectly fine to just leave that little piece of napkin in there. We're going to do the same trick on the remaining three holes to get those back together and then the rest of your re-installation of your components is pretty straightforward. This guard is to reverse of how we put it in. So get the one side started here and then we can tuck it in the other side.Now that we've got our fascia fully installed, all that's left now is to load up our favorite accessories and hit the road. To do this, you'll pull the rubber plug out of the bottom. And you're also going to find your keys in there, right there. So we can go ahead and unlock the unit. So we're going to just pull off the dust cover here. It looks like it's already in the unlocked position. You can see that it's out. Make sure our lever is in the release position, which it is. You just want to turn it the top towards the front of the vehicle. It's clicked into that, which then means that our receiver in here, we'll simply just push straight up and click into place. Now that we've got it clicked in, we do want to make sure we push in on the end of the lock to lock it down. And with our receiver in, we can put in our favorite accessory and hit the road.


Info for these parts were:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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