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Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Installation - 2021 Kia Telluride

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How to Install the Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch on a 2021 Kia Telluride


Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer, and today we're taking a look at the Stealth Hitch towing kit for a 2021 KIA Telluride. And as you can see or not see, we have it installed already. And that's the great part about the Stealth Hitch. Many people think that having a hitch kind of hanging down, takes away from the look of the vehicle, and I tend to agree. And sometimes you can't really get around that. Stealth Hitch also offers a lot of different hidden hitches here for vehicles and that way you get that nice clean look, and you still get the usability of a hitch.

And that's all accomplished by being able to drop these in. So if you're towing a trailer. Pretty easy to take our plug out here. Put that plug out. like this, it's gonna just snap in place like that, and I'm ready to tow my trailer.

But if I need to go get my bike rack so I can go riding, no problem, just a quick turn, drop this out. And now I can swap to my two inch receiver for 30 seconds. And with my two inch receiver this is gonna allow me to hook up to a bunch of different accessories, including a bike rack or a cargo care, whatever accessories you may wanna bring along with you. And this has a reinforced collar, nice black powder coat finish. And you have a five eight hitch pin hole here so you can actually keep all your accessories in place.

Now, the hitch pin and clip are not included with this kit. So you're gonna need to pick one of those up, sometimes your accessories will actually come with them, but we also have locking ones available here at etrailer, which is really nice because when you have your accessories loaded, you can leave your car and not have to worry about your accessories disappearing in the hands of someone else. Now, as far as the payload goes on the two inch receiver, you're gonna get 600 pounds. So that means you can load up 600 pounds of accessories hanging off of here. So if you have a heavy duty cargo carrier, you can really get quite a bit of cargo on there and be able to take the stuff with you when you need it.

Now if you do need to tow, that's no problem. You just simply swap this out. And you're ready to hook up. Now it's very important, and you'll see noted on here this receiver is not for towing and if you have this ball mount you really have no reason to put a adapter on here. So with this in place, you're gonna get a decent amount of payload as well. As far as trailer weight capacity, it's 6,000 pounds, and that's gonna be the weight of the trailer plus the accessories loaded up. So a decent amount of weight. You also have a tongue weight of 600 pounds, which is the downward pressure that, that trailer's gonna put on the mount. Now you wanna check your vehicle's owner's manual to see what the vehicle's capable of towing and take the lower of those two numbers just to say safe. Now as far as towing goes, you're gonna be ready to rock and roll because you have your safety chain loops here attached to the hitch, as well as your trailer wiring ready to plug in. So the safety chain loops, they are kind of tucked in tight but it's gonna be fine for your standard hook here as you can actually slide these in fairly easily. Now your larger clevis-style, it's a little bit more of a challenge, but it does still slot in here so you're able to make that connection. Now, the 7-Pole is obviously installed here and included in the kit, which is really nice when you're hooking up to those trailers. But what if your trailers are 4-Pole That's okay, they got you covered here with this nice adapter. This'll plug into our 7-Pole and give us our 4-Pole connection here, so you're able to hook up to a bunch of different trailers, no problem. Now, as far as Stealth Hitch installations go, some of them can get pretty evasive because you are having to hide these hitches. That's not the case here, this is actually a pretty quick install and overall the quality of the kit is really, really good. You have a lot of versatility and really it's got everything you could want if you plan on towing, but also wanna carry accessories around. And overall as the package shows, it makes it really nice looking when you're not actually using it. And that says something because you get function and form. Now, if you plan on loading up accessories, I'm gonna give you a few quick measurements, just to kind of help you out to make sure that your accessories fit. So measuring from the center of the hitch pin hole to the furthest point on the rear fascia, we're looking at about three and a half inches, and that's important to note for when you load your accessories in, how much gap you'll have between the rear fascia and your bike rack or cargo carrier, whatever you may have. Now as far as ground clearance, this one actually is kind of interesting in the fact that when it's removed you have the same ground clearance as the factory, but with your receiver in place you're looking at about 13 and a half inches, and that's a pretty good height you wouldn't have to worry too much about things making contact with this. But when you load your accessories up, whether it be your bike rack or your cargo carrier, sometimes they can actually hang down a little bit lower. And that becomes a little more evident when going up a hill, or if you're on some rough terrain that might make contact with your accessories. So keep that in mind when you have your receiver and accessories loaded up. To begin our install, we're gonna wanna lower down our spare tire as it's gonna kind of live up there. And it's just gonna gain us a lot more space when installing. So if you haven't actually lowered your spare tire down, show you how to do that now. So now we're gonna lift up our cargo area all-weather mat, as well as this handle here. Now you're gonna see this plastic little panel, and as you can see, it says spare tire. So, you can probably pry it up with your finger nail, I'm gonna use a flat head here. And now we can see this bolt here, and in order to get this lower down, I'm actually gonna use our spare tire parts we have tucked in this little cabinet here. You pop that out, you can grab your toolkit, so you pull up this hook and loop strap here, and it's got this nice little catty. So now we're just gonna spin this counter-clockwise and that's going to lower that tire down. So now we have our spare tire off, I'm gonna set this aside and we're gonna go underneath the vehicle. And there's a plastic panel that will be taking off. And there's this little panel that's tucked behind in the rear fascia, there's gonna be some plastic push pins that we're gonna wanna remove. Now I'm using a trim removal tool, makes it pretty easy. If you don't have one, you can actually pick those up here at etrailer, but also a flat head screwdriver will really get this done just the same. We're just gonna pry, there's a little gap that you can slide it in, and then these should come out pretty easy. Take your time on these plastic clips as they can become brittle and break over time. Now, so there's the three push pins and then up top there's actually going to be some plastic nuts there, and those are gonna be 14 millimeter. So I'll grab my socket and go ahead and get those removed. Now sometimes these just kind of spin around so what you wanna do is actually put a little downward pressure here and that's gonna help it kind of bring that nut down. And as far as all the hardware that we're taking off, you wanna keep it in a safe place, that way you have it for re-installation. So now we can set this aside. So now under the vehicle, we're gonna also need to lower our exhaust down. The reason being that's also gonna gain us a little bit more access to get this installed, and this is gonna be pretty easy to do. But a precaution, I would grab a strap or something to support the exhaust. If you're doing this on the ground, you can simply put a block underneath it. But mainly once you have those hangers off, you're gonna wanna make sure that exhaust isn't hanging down as it can bend. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna run a strap across, and just kind of hook it to some suspension components here. And this is just gonna create a nice little cradle when we drop our exhaust down. Now as far as getting these off, they can be tricky at times. I highly suggest using a pry bar as that seems to work well. And also where the actual studs go into the rubber you can use a little penetrating oil, you can use soapy water, or you can even use silicone spray, something to kind of get these to move along. So with those sprayed, it should be able to just pry behind here and that'll come off. There's also one here by the rear differential. And this one, you can actually kind of use the actual hanger itself to get some leverage here. We might even be able to get this with my hands here. With that other one actually popped off you can move the exhaust a little bit, get this lateral motion. And also if you're struggling with the top one you can attempt to do at the bottom, but as you can see it's got a little larger edge. So whichever one works best for you, as long as it gets separated, your good. Now you can see it, we do have this here supporting the weight of the exhaust. So now let's grab our hitch and get that installed. Now before putting the hitch in place, you're gonna wanna check this forward most hole on the frame rail. Now, this is gonna actually have this hardware go into it, to hold the hitch in place. And sometimes with these facing down it's possible that road grime, rust, and debris can build up in these holes and causes hard to thread. So go ahead and make sure that these can actually easily spin in with no resistance from anything. Now, this vehicle's relatively new and hasn't seen a whole lot of road, so these are actually pretty good. But if you do need to clean yours out, using a little penetrating oil and a tube brush, or wire to kind of get in there and just knock some of that loose and make sure that it's clean before threading these in. So now with an extra set of hands are gonna wanna grab your hitch, and I would highly suggest grabbing your bolts and your flat washers here. And it's gonna be trickier on the passenger side due to the exhaust, but these are going to go up into the frame rail, there's gonna be holes and we're gonna slide these in place. So, I'm gonna actually loop our exhaust down a little bit to fit this through. And you kind of may have to work around the plastic, but here we are. So now feed their bolts through going from the outside in. And once those are in place, the hitch is gonna kind of hold itself up. So you should have both bolts fitting through with the studs hanging out there. Now, if you are having trouble getting those through you might have to raise up on the hitch itself, just to kind of align those holes and they'll pop through. Don't be poor putting our nylon nuts on these bolts we're actually gonna need to take these spacers here and run our bottom ones in. So the way that they go in is the flat part here is gonna face towards the back of the vehicle, and this is going to go this long flat piece towards the long end of the hitch, just to make it a little bit easier. So as you slide this in place, just kinda make sure that that hole is lined up and you may have to kind of slide it around a bit to get that perfect spot. Now this spacer is gonna cinch up this extra space. And so it is kind of tighter on this end and it can be tricky to get this whole line up. So what I suggest doing is pushing this up pretty far and then sliding it, and then seeing where the hole lines up and if you need to move it a little bit more, just knid of give it a nice slide up in there. So there's our hole there. I can actually use my fingers here to kind of push that in place. You do have a gap on this back end. Might help to grab a little Flathead and just push that forward as well. If you need to again, you can use your screwdriver to try and get those holes aligned, and then once those are in place, you're gonna take your hardware here. You're gonna see, I have a lock washer as well as a flat washer here. Make sure that's in proper orientation. And then go ahead and get this started on those threads. Now, if you're having it bind up, you're gonna see, I think these threads are rubbing against the hitch and that's kind of to be expected unless it's lined up. But since these are still loose, you can actually kind of move the hitch around just enough to where that's not gonna bind up on it. Now, once you get this started, you don't wanna tighten this down too much as this is gonna cinch that up. And we still need to put the spacer on the other side. So go ahead and repeat that same process on the passenger side. So this one actually seemed to be a little bit easier because it follows the shape of the hitch pretty well. So it's really can go in only one way. Now, if you are having trouble getting these two start threading, don't get too crazy cause you don't wanna strip or cross thread. So what I've found is kind of raising the hitch up since it's still loose to kind of give it that little extra little room is definitely gonna help. So once we have both of those in place, I'm gonna tighten them down. Now you don't have to get too crazy as far as cranking these down tight because we're actually gonna go back with a torque wrench to get the proper spec. But for now we're gonna send shoots up. We're gonna go back to the bolts that we ran through, put a flat washer on there and then follow it up with your nylon lock nut. So I'm just gonna get these kind of started on there. And then I'll go back with some tools and get this in place. Now we're gonna tighten down the two bolts on each side. And what we're gonna do is put a three quarter inch wrench here on the bolt head and then a three quarter inch socket on the actual nut. We'll go ahead and tighten this down. Go ahead and repeat that on the other side. So now we're gonna be torquing down our hardware using a torque wrench. Now, if you don't have a torque wrench, we sell these here at etrailer, or generally you can rent one in an auto parts store, but this is an important step to make sure that these are not too tight and stressing the threads, but also tight enough to where they're not gonna come loose over time when towing. So make sure that you're checking the Torx standards in the instruction manuals. These smaller bolts are gonna have a lower torque setting than the other ones. So go ahead and make sure these are all toward the properly. Now when torquing the long bolts and nuts here, you're gonna wanna try your best to torque it on the nut side. And you're gonna wanna put your three quarter inch wrench on the other side. And that way it's gonna keep that from spinning while torquing it. We'll go ahead and do that on the remaining three. Now these are gonna be a little trickier to get to. So I'm using an extension on my torque wrench and I'm actually putting my three-quarter in socket here and using that as leverage. And it's gonna hold in place on the muffler. So now we're gonna put the actual receiver mechanism here, and you're gonna have two of these plates as well as a bracket and long bolts. And so I've kind of routed the first portion here as it is kind of tricky. You're gonna have to put the block in place and I suggest sliding this bracket over the handle mechanism. And then your bracket we'll kind of go through here, but you're gonna need to keep the bolts through. So with all this kind of in place, you're gonna slide them in. It's kinda tricky to kind of balance it all, but just put a little bit of patience, just make sure it's all in the proper orientation. And then you can follow up with this other plate and this elongated hole is gonna face towards the front of the vehicle. And then you can simply slide this over the studs of the bowl. Let me make sure my little rubber is out of there. And then from there we can take our large nylon lock nuts, and we're just gonna hand these on for now, as long as I don't drop them, we'll go. And then we're gonna go back with a 15 16th socket and wrench and tighten these down just a little bit. So here we have it all in place and you're gonna see you got your lock mechanism here on the driver's side, you have this to unlatch the hitch and this bracket is going to be really nice for your wiring harness. Then you have your safety chain loops here. So with all of this in place, all we need to do is go back with our torque wrench and torque these down in the spec. Now this one that's closer to us was actually pretty easy to get a wrench on onto the bolt side in the back. I couldn't really get the right angle. So I'm actually gonna use a socket on the other end just to make it a little bit easier and then just get that torque to spec. And these are gonna be good. So now the first portion of your tow package is complete we have the hitch in place. So now all we need to do is get the wiring installed. Now, if you are uncomfortable with doing wiring, this is gonna be hot. So our black power wire is gonna have a 12 volt charge. So if you ground, it's gonna spark. So if it makes you feel a little more comfortable, if you just wanna be extra safe, you can go ahead and unhook your battery to make sure that there's no power running through it. So now we're gonna go where our under panel was removed earlier, and we're gonna be plugging in our harness here. Now, sometimes there's a dummy clip or a cap on there. It's pretty easy to remove you, just push this tab, pull it off. And then you'll put this plug in. From here, I've bundled up the extra wire that we have here, and then I've mounted our module here. Now, when you mount it, you didn't wanna make sure this uProxy is facing down that way. Water doesn't collect in here, you use your self-tapping screw. That's included in the kit to mount it there. From here, I routed the wires through this gap and I'd followed up the hitch over to where we're gonna have the rest of our bundle. Now you're gonna see the blue and purple wires. These are gonna be great. If you are planning on using a brake controller or towing a boat trailer, we are not gonna be using those in this application. So I've just taped up the ends of them so that they're protected and I've zipped tied the extra on to the rest of our wire. And then following here, we simply routed our wire down here and we'll be making our connection to our 7-Pole. Now we're gonna be running our 7-Pole to the bracket. So we'll go ahead and get that mounted up. If you want, you can route it through a, there's also this nice little split if you really wanna run the wires, but just to make it easy, we'll run that through. We're gonna take our screws here and those will go through the slot and it's got a nice, a decent amount of adjustability. So once you have everything in place, you can actually kind of get some height adjustment. Now we're gonna go and feed our little bolts here onto these screws. And it looks like it's holding on for dear life, but we'll get this one installed here and you're gonna wanna run these bolts, this orientation, because you do the other way. These can actually kind of cause interference with the plug that we're running. So just make sure that the nuts are on facing towards their saber part of the hitch. And to tighten these down, we have a Phillips head on the screw and then a three eight socket. We'll tighten these down on the backend and now our bracket's installed. So now our 7-Pole, you're gonna wanna loosen up these Phillips heads. And there's also this grub strew at the top. But once I loosened it, I can actually hear that kind of dropping out. And that's what we need to do is gain access to this plug so we can make our connections. Now this is gonna need to feed those wires through that way. When we hook it all together, it'll cinch back in. So go ahead and route this up on the wires. And if you need to, you can tighten down the scrubs group just to kind of keep it held up. So you're not gonna have to worry about that grub screw holding this up as this insulation here on the wires is doing a pretty fine job, but I'm gonna pull this up enough to give me some access. Now I'm gonna go through and I'm gonna strip the ends of these wires, and then we're gonna make our attachment. Now we have all of our ends stripped. We're gonna go ahead and attach these to our plugs. So you're gonna want a Phillips head screwdriver to be able to tighten these into place. Now you're gonna wanna follow your instructions because following this on the plug might actually give you the wrong connections. So we'll go ahead and we will start using this QA here. We're gonna put our blue wire on this section. You call that I suppose the seven o'clock position. Go ahead and tighten this in. Just to kind of go overview, this you're gonna wanna find this key slot here. The other ones actually have blocks. So just find the one main one and then just follow with me here. We'll put blue then green and then black and then brown, yellow, white, and then purple is gonna go and our center. So when doing these, I kind of suggest that you can actually take off the whole plate, just make sure you don't lose that. I would loop the wire around the screw if possible. And that way it has a really good bite onto it. When I did it earlier, I just pressed the wires and tighten it down and they did wanna kind of come out. So make sure they are secured properly. And that way your wiring is not gonna give you issues down the road. Now, if you want to, you can actually go with a little black silicone here and kind of tidy up these edges and make sure that moisture doesn't build up, but this should hold just fine. Now from here, we'll pull this wire back, and we're gonna line up that little slot that we had, might help it along here. So you're gonna wanna make sure that this bottom slot here is facing down towards where the grub screw is. You can help kind of push that in place. And then once that is in place, you can tighten down the side screws and you're gonna see that it's gonna go where that slot is. You can see that screw going in. So that's gonna hold it in place. Go ahead and tighten this one down as well. So now we have this all attached and really all we have to do here is I'm gonna run the excess wiring up and we'll be able to zip tie this up to the hitch. So it's out of the way, but we'll get our plug in place. Now you're able to choose kind of what orientation you please. I'll probably end up going like this. And that way the plug is kind of facing down and a little easier to attach. So once you have that in place, you're gonna take the same hardware that we had up here and we're gonna mount it up onto our bracket. So I've gone ahead and I used our hardware to tighten this into our bracket. Everything's in place, zipped up. So really all that's left to do is test that our system is working. Now I'll be using a 7-Pole tester here. Now we have these here at etrailer, and they're really nice because you can actually see each individual light lighting up and you don't have to hook it up to a trailer. Also, if your trailer has wiring issues, it can maybe give you a false negative. Say that your plug is bad when really it might be the trailer wiring. So this actually keeps it specifically to the vehicle. So I'll go ahead and plug this in, and now I'm gonna run it through the light cycles. So you can see that we have a light here already, and that's gonna be our 12 volt power supply. So we know that's working. So now I'm gonna run through the light cycles and make sure that everything else is working properly. So starting off with my running lights, next I'm gonna go to my left turn signal, my right turn signal. And then finally my brakes. So now that we know that this is working properly, I'm gonna go ahead, get our exhaust amount of back up, get our strap off of there and get our plastic panel back up. We can also get our spare tire on and then we're ready to hit the road. So here, our hitch is completely installed and really all you see is the safety chain loops hanging down. So it really lives up to that name stealth. Now, really all that's left to do is decide whether you're towing a trailer or you're hooking up another accessory, either way, they're gonna pop in this thing. Now this two inch ball does come with this ball mount, which is a really nice addition. You will have to torque it down to the factory specs to make sure that you do that. And also if you need a different size ball, if your trailer has a different coupler, you're gonna wanna pick that up. And that way you can have that ready to tell. And if you don't have those, we have those here at etrailer. Now I have this up in the air, mostly just to show you how it works. It's just as easy to do it on the ground. But to give you a little visual, I wanna show you what we're working with. To put this in place pretty easy, just make sure that it's unlocked and you can see it actually popped open. And then this is gonna pop into place here, but a simple twist of this knob. I mean, here, it kind of click into place there really quick pull, make sure it's good and then lock it in place and then cover up your lock. When you're ready to take off your two inch receiver and swap over to your towing, or you're just not gonna be using your hitch. It's just as easy to take off. So go ahead and unlock, turn this, and that's gonna drop out. And it's also nice that they included this nice little cap. So whenever you are actually using the hitch, you can simply plug this back in and it's gonna keep it nice and clean for the next time that you need to load up your accessories or your ball mount. And that was a look and installation of the Stealth Hitch trailer, receiver and towing kit on a 2021 Kia Telluride..


Info for these parts were:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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