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Tekonsha Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit Installation - 2019 Audi Q5

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How to Install the Tekonsha Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit on a 2019 Audi Q5

Hey everybody, Ryan here at etrailer. Today on our 2019 Audi Q5, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha upgraded vehicle wiring harness with a 4-way flat trailer connector. So this Q5s are really capable SUVs and people wanna use them. They wanna tow their trailers, go on adventures and whatever the case may be. And so if that's what you plan on doing, you're gonna need a way to power up those lights on your trailer. And with this setup, what's really nice is the fact that our wiring's gonna be stored inside of the Audi whenever we're not using it.

That way, good looking car, you don't want wiring hanging down back here and everything else. So whenever you are ready to use it, there's gonna be a compartment over here. All right. And so we're just gonna turn that knob, pop that out. Your wiring can be stored right there.

So really convenient. And the way you're gonna get this outside of the vehicle is just to lay it flat over the threshold there and close the hatch on it. You do want to avoid the latch area here in the center and it might seem kinda strange closing the hatch on the wiring, but it's not gonna hurt it at all. It's designed to do that and it's not gonna get pinched, smashed or anything like that, so. With that said, though, we're gonna have plenty of length here to hook up to our trailer with that 4-way flat and that's a really common size.

A lot of trailers have this setup as well as hitch mounted accessories too. Once the bikes on them, they're getting more and more popular nowadays, particularly cargo carriers on a long trip or something like that. And generally speaking, this is gonna power those up as well. So kinda get two for one there. So this gonna be a great way to power everything up, keeping you safe and legal whenever you're pulling your trailer down the road.

Now with that said, Tekonsha makes really good stuff. I've actually got a Tekonsha wiring kit on my car. So I've got faith in them. And at the end of the day, it's gonna get the job done. Now, as far as the installation goes, on an Audi you might be thinking, man, this is gonna be really complicated or really hard to do, and actually we found a way that makes it relatively simple, actually. Everything's pretty easy to get to. And with the battery being in the back here, we don't have to route a ton of wires or get underneath the car or anything like that. So everything actually went pretty smooth. I will say the one thing when you come across and that you need to pay attention to, when you splice into the factory wires, really pay attention, make sure that's connected good there because they are relatively thin and easy to miss that connection, if that makes sense. But with that being said, why don't we go ahead and get started and hook this up together now. To begin our installation, we're gonna be here at the back of our Audi, and what we need to do is gain access to the inside. So we can open up our hatch and we're gonna need to locate a wiring harness, which will be over here on our driver's side. So we're gonna have a panel right here. You need to remove it and our wiring will be behind there. So just turn this knob, quarter turn, pop this out and set it off to the side. And the wiring that we're gonna be working with will be this bundle here. There may be some tape around it. If there is this, juts peel that tape off. That way, the wires can be spread out and much easier to get to. So I went ahead and tested these wires and I'll show you how to do that in a moment. But what I came up with is three different wires that we're gonna be working with. We need our tail light signal, our left turn, and our right turn. Don't need to worry about our brake signal because the stop and turn signals are combined. So for our tail lights, we're gonna have these gray wires or solid gray. Either one of them will work when we go to hook that function up. For our left turn signal, we're gonna have this mostly blue wire. It's blue and has a black stripe on it. All right. That's for the left turn. For the right turn, we're gonna have the black wire with a blue stripe that runs on it. So again, that one's for the right turn. Now go ahead and show you how to test these. The kit does come with the light that you can use, a test light. But with that said, since all of our lights are actually on the hatch, where you're gonna have to do is get inside the vehicle, close the hatch and work those functions so you can test it. So whenever you're doing this, if you have the hatch open and you're trying to test them, you're not gonna get any signals. You're gonna have to close that hatch and do it from inside of the vehicle. To test them, you're gonna take the included test light. One of the sides are gonna ground, so there's actually a factory ground right there. I just used that per alligator clip on it. And just to give you an example, I have our left turn signal going. All right. So that'll be the blue wire with the black stripe, but I have to put a small, really small hole on the wire. So you can actually get through the installation into the wire itself. And when we put our test light on it, you should see that light flashing with our blinker. So that's going correctly. You would do the same thing for the right turn. And then obviously the tail lights, when you turn those on, you're just gonna get a solid red light. So what I like to do is hold the light on there. So you see it's solid and then have it for end, turn the lights off to make sure this one comes off, turn it back on just to kinda double check and verify, but that's how you would test all those wires, if you so desire. This point, we can grab our new harness and work on the ground wires. So we're gonna have a white wire with the Cree attached ring terminal. That's gonna be a ground. And since our Audi has a two wire system, it's what it's called, since the stop and turn function on the same wire. The red wire is also gonna need to get grounded. The kit does come with a couple of ring terminals. One will be used for the battery later on to potentially use, the other one it's just really big. And so what I'm gonna do is use a smaller ring terminal. You can grab these here at etrailer. But same principle, what I'm gonna do is strip this wire back, give it a good twist, put that ring terminal over it and crimp it down. Now, if you look up, we're gonna have a factory ground post. So I figured this would be awesome to utilize that. We're gonna remove that nut using a 10 millimeter socket. So with that nut removed, now we can take our ground wires and place them over the stud there. You can take the nut and simply just tighten it back down. So when I went ahead and done, let's just zip tie up our module box here to this existing wiring harness. That way, it's secure and it's not gonna bounce around or anything like that. With that said, we're gonna have some more wires we need to hook up coming out of the bottom of our box. You're gonna have a brown one, the yellow one and a green one. And these are gonna get hooked up to the factory wires that we talked about earlier. Just kind of a quick rundown, the brown wire from our module is gonna be our tail light signal. Yellow wire is going to be our left turn and the green's gonna be our right turn. So the way that we're gonna be connecting all of our wires is with these quick splice connectors. Since it's gonna be kinda tight up there making our actual connections, I figured, I'd just grab a couple of wires here to illustrate, kind of a better picture on how these are gonna work. So what you're gonna do, you can open that side up and let's just say, this blue wire here is one of our factory wires. You're gonna push that in and lock it up. If you look on the other side, we're gonna have a hole there. The other side is gonna be sealed off. So what you wanna do, let's say this green wires from our module, you're just gonna place that in, all the way until it stops, then you're gonna take a pair of pliers and simply just push down on that quick splice, that metal tab. And what that's gonna do is connect each wire together, essentially allowing those signals to run from our factory wire to our module box. So once those are connected, you can simply close up the cap. So now that we have kind of a better idea, let's go ahead and do it on our actual wiring. All right. So I got our wires hooked up like we talked about. So just kinda a quick rundown, the brown wire from the module box. Again, that's gonna be for our tail light circuit, so I connected that to the all gray factory wire. The yellow wire from our module box, that's going to be for our left turn, and so I connected that to the blue wire with a black stripe. And then the green wire from our module box, that's gonna be for our right turn. So I connected that to the black wire with the blue stripe. Now coming out of our module, we're gonna have a black wire and this is gonna need to get connected to the bundle of wire, which will run to the battery. One end is gonna be pre-stripped, you're gonna take the included butt connector, slide that over the bearing of the wire and crimp it down. And then if we grabbed the included bundle, we're gonna take one end of it and strip it back some, about that much. And get that into the other end of the butt connector and crimp it down. And since this is a heat shrink, we'll come back with our heat source and seal up the ends. Since this bundle of wire will need to get routed to our battery, we first need to gain access to it. And thankfully, it's actually located right here in the back. So it's gonna be relatively simple. What you're gonna need to do is take your floor covering, just pull back on it. You can set it out of the way for now. And the battery is gotta be located right there. So if you lift up on this cover, we'll have access to our positive terminal. And now that know where it is, we'll now go ahead and do is route our wiring over to this area. And then I'll show you the path that I took to get here. So I got our wiring routed and what I was able to do is just take the wire and just kinda push it underneath this paneling down in this direction. And I just kept working it up and what I was able to do is just pull out this little piece and just kinda lift up on this and reach under there and grab it, pull it out right through here next to our battery. From there, you need to cut that wire to length. All right. 'Cause we obviously don't need that whole bundle. I still like to give us a little extra. That way, we have some wire to work with, but then we're gonna need to attach the fuse holder. Make sure the fuse is not installed. Just like we did the other end of the power wire, you just used the butt connector to pair the fuse holder with the power wire. Other end of the fuse holder is going to receive a ring terminal. All right. So this needs to get hooked up to the positive battery post. What we're gonna do is loosen that nut up using a 10 millimeter. And be careful with these, a lot of times, these nuts aren't designed to easily come all the way off. And if that's the case, we're gonna do something a little different to get our ring terminal hooked up. You'll know, okay, this one is like that. You'll know if they're not designed to easily come off if they just kinda stop. Once it stops, don't force it off 'cause it's really tricky to get back on, potentially a cross thread, the stud there. And so what we're gonna do is simply just modify that ring terminal. So to modify that ring terminal, we're just gonna cut out a small opening in. This ring terminal is pretty big and so what I like to do is cut out that section and then kinda just crimp it together a little bit more to kinda close that gap off of a hair. That way it'll kinda give me some better, a better bite on our battery post. And kinda close that up a little bit and cut out one more section there. It looks like that out of work, and what you're gonna do is simply just push it behind that nut over the stud. So we have it like that. Now what we can do is simply just tighten it back down. So now that we have our power wire all hooked up, I'm gonna come back with your fuse and place that into the holder, close up that dust cover. And now before we start putting all of her panels back and everything else, it's a good idea to test our wiring to make sure that it's working properly. To test our wiring, I'm gonna be using this small tester that you can grab here at etrailer. I recommend using one of these as opposed to plugging into your trailer. That way, if your trailer has any faults or any issues with it, we can bypass those problems. With that said, we will try our left turn signal, our right turn signal, our brakes, and our running lights. Now that we be verified everything works, you can go ahead, re-install our floor covering here. And as far as the 4-way connector goes, you could leave this out here or kinda route it to where you want it. What I think I'm gonna do since this area here is really easy to just pop right off. I think I'm just gonna kinda tuck this in back here and store in here. That way, whenever we need it, you can simply just remove this panel and in pull it out. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Tekonsha upgraded vehicle wiring harness with the 4-way flat trailer connector in on our 2019 Audi Q5..

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