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Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2019 Chrysler Pacifica

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2019 Chrysler Pacifica


Rob: Everybody Rob here at etrailer.com today we're going to be taking a look at the inaudible 00:00:04 T-ONE vehicle wiring harness on our 2019 Chrysler Pacifica. Now, our T-ONE vehicle wiring harness is going to provide us with a 4-pole flat trailer connector. So whenever we're towing our trailer down the road, we can be safe and legal because it's going to give us our tail signals, turn signals, and our brake lights signals.Now, we'll use this 4 pole braker to Mount up our wiring. It's going to give us a nice clean appearance to it, but it's also going to make sure that our wiring is nice and secure and ready for us whenever we want to. Now, the brake does not come with the wiring, but you can find it here at etrailer.com. Our wiring is not going to be just for trailers.

Now, obviously we can hook it up so we can get those lights on the trailer.We need to be safe going down the road and for knows what's going on around us. But if we have a step, a cargo carrier or any kind of accessory that Mounts in the back of your Pacifica that needs lights, it's going to be a lot easier to plug in that 4 pole connector and it would be to try to hardwire everything in.And our 4 pole connector is going to be one of the most common connectors that's on trailers and hitch mounted accessories. As far as the installation goes, it's going to be pretty straightforward. We're going to take our tail lights out. We're going to have a T-connector that's going to go in line between our tail lights and the wiring harness and our vehicle.

Wire that on each side and then we're going to have to run a power wire from the back here up to the battery.And that's because our wiring is going to have a powered converter box. It's going to take the signals from our Pacifica and transfer them to a working signal for our trailer, but it's also going to protect our Pacific its wiring, because if there is a problem on the trailer end, it's going to prevent any kind of backfeeding or electrical problems.Now, I know some customers may be are little bit nervous when it comes to wiring, but this is going to be a complete plug and play kit and we're not going to have to cut into our Pacifica's wiring or splicing or anything like that. Again, it's just going to be those T-connectors that are going to plug in, in line with our tail lights.But let's go in and walk through the installation together. To begin our installation, we want to open up the rear hatch on our Pacifica and we're going to come to the edge here, right where our tail light it's going to be mounted. There's going to be two bolts holding each one of the in.

We're going to pull those out, so we'll ran these two bolts on the inside of that channel by the hatch. Whenever I have a T 30 Torx bit, I'm going to pull both of those screws out.Once you have both of those screws out, we want to grab your tail light and you want to try to pull it straight back as you can without pivoting too much because there are some alignment pins and we don't want them to break. Once we have it pulled out, we'll find the connector at the back to be a little red tab on there and I slide it away from the tail light. It'll unlock it. It will push down on the black center tab and disconnect the connector.Now, we're going to set our tail light aside where it won't get damaged.

We'll move over to the other side and take that one out as well. Now that we have our taillight removed, we're going to have to get our wiring up to the connector, so instead of getting our wiring here and pushing it all down to the bottom, I'm going to take an airline tube and I'm going to feed it down to the bottom so I can only grab the connector I need and bring it up top.Now you can use justify whatever you have available. If you don't have an airline tube, you can use a string with something heavy attached to it so it will fall down. We can use a coat hanger just again, just about whatever you have. So we're just going to push this down as far down as we can go and we're going to move underneath our Pacifica and we're going to find the wire underneath that cover that would come underneath the back of our Pacifica here. We're going to have this panel that's going to be covering up the bottom.Our airline tube will ran down should be around this area towards the outside, so we're going to loosen up these bolts, remove them so we can kind of pull the panel out of the way. I'm using an eight millimeter socket for three bolts on the outer edge of that panel. It have move a little bit towards the center. We're going to have these two plastic nuts that are also holding that fill panel in place.This time you want to grab a 10 millimeter socket and pull both of those out. This will give us enough Slack and movement in the panel and we should be able to just kind of push it out of the way and grab the airline tube. We want to grab the T-connector from our wiring harness that has the yellow wire connected to it.Now, I'm just going to take my airline tube and I'm going to take some electrical tape and tape my harness to that airline tubes. We can move back up top and pull the wires up into the tail light housing area. I'm just going to move the panel out of the way. Kind of tuck up most of the connector so it won't get caught on that panel. And again, we'll just move up top, pull that airline through and pull a Slack up.Now, it is a little bit of a tight fit in here, so you may have to kind of wiggle it around to get the connector to come up, but it will fit through there. It's just a matter of getting it to come up and you don't want to pull too hard and release the connector from the airline too. Then we're going to have to go back underneath, re-fish it through. And once you have your wires brought up top, it's not a bad idea to take a zip tie and kind of secure it so it's not going to fall back down. Now, for our T-connector that's coming up, we're going to have one female, one male end, so we want to grab the connector that we would plug into our tail light or plug it into the matching harness.Make sure you put that locking tab back in place and just to give ourselves a little bit of extra room, we can actually tuck the harness and the connector kind of down in that pocket a little bit so we have a little bit more room for the tail light to go back in. I want to make sure we leave this connector out so we can put the tail light back in place.So we grab our driver's side tail light, line up the connectors, make sure everything plugs in, and then we can reinstall the driver's side tail light and move back down to the bottom where the rest of our harness is. I have removed back underneath where we had our wiring ran in the converter boxes, we should have our 4 pole wire, a green wire, a black wire that has a stripped end on it, and then a white wire with a ring terminal.We're going to go ahead and work with our white wire first. This is going to be our ground wire and we've got a few different options of how we can ground out our system. We can either find an existing ground underneath here that we can reach with the ring terminal or we can use the included self tapping screw and go directly into the frame. That's what I'm going to do because it is going to be covered up by a panel, so we really don't have to worry about putting a hole on the bottom of the car.So we will grab our quarter inch nut driver. I'm just going to pull this panel down a little bit. If we look inside, you have a nice flat spot on the frame. I just want to drill into the frame first. We'll get the hole started. Then we're going to remove this screw and attach the ring terminal. And do you want to double check that that ring terminal is nice and secure it's not going to move around on you, but you also don't want to strip out the self tapping screw.Now that we have our ground wire attached, we're going to want to find a spot to mount our converter box. That way we know we have enough room from the Slack and the wires. There's really a couple of different options of how we can, our kit is going to include some double sided tape so we can clean out the box and a flat surface and stick it to it, but at the same time, our converter box does have a little islet on the top that we can use a zip tie to mount it to.Now, that's the way we're going to go and if we actually just come up right about where our bumper beam is, there's a small tab on here. Then we can run a zip tie through and secure the box too. That way we won't have to worry about the double sided tape ever failing because the glue failed. The zip tie will hold it nice and secure and keep from rattling around.Now, we can bring our attention to the green wire and our 4-pole wire. We want to route this over from the driver's side. We want to stop our 4-pole somewhere near the receiver tube so we can have it ready for us when we want to tow. But we wanted to take the green wire and we're going to run all the way across to the passenger side and we're going to use that same method using that airline tube to pull the connector up top.Whenever you are running it across the back here you do want to stay away from any moving components or anything that has a lot of heat sources because we do have our exhaust over the passenger sites. You want to be mindful of how you're routing things.We're just going to tuck our wire underneath this cover for now and once we have it over to the position where we want it, we can come back, use of zip tie, secure everything up and make sure it's not going to interfere. But I want to dry fit it first to make sure I have enough Slack to get all the way over to the passenger side. I'm just going to connect the passenger side the same way. And again, I anchored off my green wire up top here, so I'm just going to take the excess Slack, kind of tuck it back down underneath along with the factory connector to give ourselves room just like we did over the driver's side.Once we have all that tucked away, we'll grab our tail light and we re-install over here on the passenger side, I just want to make sure you check your wires and you're not going to be pinching them and they're not going to interfere with any of the mounting points. We are on the passenger side, giving these screws back in can be a little bit tough just because we have the shock absorber right here and it's pretty tight fit.So what I like to do is I'll just take my extension and my socket and I'll get it started by hand. Just kind of guiding it in that way I know it's not going to cross thread, but I also have a little bit more control and trying to get it in there with my fingers. Once we know it's good, I'll just tighten everything up.And we should have one more wire left and could be the black wire coming out of the converter box with the stripped end on it. This wire needs to get attached to the positive post in our battery. Now, obviously, there's not enough Slack here to get to the battery, so we're going to take the included butt connector, slide it over the end of our wire, crimp it down.We want to grab the length of wire they give you in your kit. We'll find the end of it, strip it, and we can put it in the other end of butt connector. That'll be plenty of Slack to run that all the way up to the battery. And these are heat shrink butt connectors. Some needs a heat gun to shrink them down. But if you're using an open flame like a torch or a lighter or anything like that, you'll be extremely careful not to burn inaudible 00:12:17 or damage the connector or the wire.And also be mindful because this panel under here is like a felt light material, so we don't want to get that too hot either. So now I'm going to run my wire up towards the front of our Pacifica. Again, you just want to stay away from any kind of moving parts. They can damage the wire and extreme heat sources.So most likely it's going to be going underneath a lot of the panels. So I'm going to go ahead and run this and then I'll show you how I read it up to the front. And since we're going to have to get that wire underneath up to the battery, the batteries over here on the driver's side. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take that airline tube from inaudible 00:12:56 remember I will run it along side of the firewall, as close as I can get until I can reach underneath and meet up with my wire.And again, you can use pretty much whatever you have available, but you really, really want to be mindful of how you're routing your airline too when you start pushing it down in the engine Bay. Because there's a lot of components in here that are going to be moving. A lot of things are going to get hot and we don't want our wire to get damaged.So once you have it down below, it's not a bad idea to kind of check to see how it's coming up and if it's going to interfere with anything. So I will make sure you hold onto the end of it and it doesn't fall back down, that way, once we do have the wire attached, we can come back up, pull it up just like with the tail lights.So I started routing my power wire towards the front. It's kind of came along this panel here and then at the very back of the trunk pan it kind of opens up where you can see, where you're going to lift the panel out of the way. I ran my wire underneath that panel, I went over all the sub frame and rear axle components here and then I kind of shot it over towards the fuel tank over here.All underneath this cover here. You can see a little bit of the wire right there, but it's really nice because these covers are going to keep it secure and keep it hidden as well. And once I got to the end of the cover here, you're actually remove these two nuts. You can do that with a 10 millimeter socket. That way I could have a little bit of Slack on this plastic panel here. Continue to route my wire underneath the panel all the way until it comes out right at the end of the panel here, and here's that airline tube that we ran down from up top.So now we can take some electrical tape, connect the tube and pull that airline up to bring all the Slack to the top. I'll pull all the Slack out of a power wire. Now, I always suggest that you go back underneath, make sure you do have all the Slack up top and you don't have a water wire that potentially can get caught while we're driving down the road.I also suggest that you anchor this off. Once you know you have all the Slack up there so it doesn't fall back down on you. Now, inaudible 00:15:16 gets our battery. We're going to remove the intake inlet right here on the front. It's pretty easy. We just want to lift up on the very front section. It's going to have a couple of little tabs are in there. Once we have it high enough, we want to go above that plastic piece and just going to pull straight out and we can set this aside for right now.I'm going to open up the cover and our battery. You want to open it from the back side towards the air box kind of work, flips open towards the front of the hood. We're going to estimate about how much wire we need to reach one of the positive posts on our battery. I'll go ahead and cut the excess.We want to strip back the end of our wire. I will grab another one of our heat shrink butt connectors and crimp it in place. I want to grab our fuse holder, now this is going to be one solid piece so we can come about center. Cut that wire in half. Unless you do that, we want to make sure we strip both ends.Now one of the ends is going to go into the butt connector that we just crimped onto our power wire. We'll slide it in place, crimp the wire down, in the other end, the re stripped, we're going to take the ring terminal out of our kit encrypted onto that wire. We want to grab a 10 millimeter socket and we can use one of these posts to give us some power.So I will the nuts. I will take our ring terminal and I like to position it to where it's going to be able most likely to come out of that cover kind of following the rest of the wires. So let's get it in position and reinstall the nut. One thing I do want to mention is I don't have the fuse in the fuse holder right now and it's a good idea to leave it out until we're completely done that we don't have to worry about any kind of arking or any kind of connection issues. I mean, it'd be the last step that we do is put the fuse in place.Well, you can test to see if our cover closes and locks in place. Since our cover fits in place with our fuse holder before the fuse and we're going to move back to the back of our Pacifica, clean up any wires and put that panel back in place as well.So for our wiring to mount it up, we have a few different options, on our hitch, we have this bracket mount of here's, we can mount it up real easily, but if you're not using a bracket or anything you can actually just use the dust cover, loop it around your safety chain loops. And we want a nice clean permanent solution.So we're going to be mounting up a 4-pole bracket to line up the holes that are in the bracket with the holes that are already on our hitch. We'll drop the bolts down through coming from the top. Line our bracket up, slide it over the bolts. Let me, see if it take the included locking nuts and secure it down. Let's get them started by hand for now. So the bracket will hold itself up and we can grab a 10 millimeter socket and snug those up.Now, these are locking nuts so you should be able to just put your socket on the nut and just hold the top of your finger and it'll tighten it up. There's no need to get a screwdriver. Plus there's not a whole lot of room here. So the good thing with the locking nuts, you just tighten them up on the bottom and then they get our 4-pole in place. We just want to make sure that we push it from the back going through. You'll see there's little ridges on the actual connector. Those are going to pop through and kind of hold it in place with compression.It's kind of want to work it back and forth until there's ridges just come past there because that's what's going to keep it in place. Even when we go to plug our trailer in, it's not going to push it out now that we have everything's secure and go ahead and put the 15 amp fuse in place. You can kind of want to pay attention to when you put it in there because those terminals are really tight and sometimes they can just miss it.Close up our cover. Don't forget to put back your air intake plenum here and want to start it in the air box first. So I'll slide that section in and just kind of reverse the way we took it out. I want to make sure it clears that section here so we can rotate it down and make sure that kind of bring it back a little bit. Make sure those pegs line up, push it down to lock it in position.Now, that everything is back in place and secure, we're going to move back to the back and we're going to test our wiring, making sure all the circuits we're properly. Now, if you need a four pole tester, you can pick one up here at etrailer.com like the one we have here using part number I26 and we'll go ahead and turn on my headlights. We can see that the tail light function is working along with the left turn signal, the right turn signal, and my brakes. inaudible 00:20:38 love to do now is hook up to our trailer and hit the road.


Ken R.

3/4/2021

I have tried for 2 entire hours trying to get the drivers side wiring up through that SMALL gap. The black square piece will NOT let me pull the wire up. This is a terrible design. Give some realistic help on how to fish this wire up to the light. I hate this harness.

Etrailer Expert

Jon G.

3/5/2021

I don't know what all you've tried, but you could maybe try taping it at a different angle and/or using a smaller pull wire to help give yourself more room to pull the connector up.

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