Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Volvo XC60

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2020 Volvo XC60


Connor: Hey, everyone, Connor here today at etrailer.com. We're going to be taking a look at Tekonsha's T-One Trailer Wiring Harness here for our 2020 Volvo XC60.Here's how we have our trailer wiring harness secured to the trailer here. As you can see, we're just using the safety chains here, along with the dust cover cap on our trailer connector to secure everything. This particular harness here is going to give us everything we need to remain legal for some of our smaller and medium duty trailers without electric trailer brakes. If we do have electric trailer brakes on our trailer, there are adapters that we can convert this to the necessary seven-way. But the four-way that this harness provides is going to give us all our basic lighting functions, such as the tail lights and the stop and turn signals.In regards to installation, this harness is going to be plug and play, which means we're not going to need to do any splicing into the vehicle's wiring and we can remain 100% factory.

It's going to be super simple to install at home by yourself with limited tools and even limited knowledge, for that part. So I definitely encourage you to try this one yourself at home. So now that we've gone over some of the benefits and features of our wiring harness, let's jump right into installation and show you how easy it is to install yourself.The first step of our installation here, we want to come to the back of our vehicle here. We're going to open up the hatch, and now we have the floor covering here we need to remove. This is super easy to do.

Just press down here on this little tab, pull up, and now we should be able to pull outward to remove, just like that. Once we have our floor covering out, basically just to show you what we're doing is we need to get behind these panels here. We have one on either side because that's where the connection point is for our tail lights that we need to tie into.In order to get behind these panels, we're going to have to first remove this little threshold covering here. We'll use an 8mm socket. There's going to be two screws here on the inside that are going to need to come out.

Going to be one on each side here, so let's go ahead and just zip those both out now. So now once we have those two inside screws removed, we're going to have a screw or a bolt underneath our cargo hook here. We're going to pry open that little metal lever there, and you can see here there's a little notch in that plastic cover there, if we pry up on, we can remove it.Now we're going to take a 10mm socket and we're going to remove this bolt here. Now there is some Loctite on this bolt here, so it may be a little tougher to break free at first. But we should be able to pry this cover out now with those fasteners removed.

We can see here we just have some locking alignment tabs here that we'll just pull straight out on.Now once we have our threshold covering removed, we can come to either side of the vehicle here and we're going to want to pry out the side panel here. Now, luckily, we don't have to take these all the way out, but we do need to pry them out enough so we can reach behind here and get to the connection for our tail light. We want to start at the top here. If you have a trim panel tool, it's definitely going to help us here. Sort of this black section here between our tan and our fabric, we're just going to pry out here first. You could see the clips release. We have some clips just holding it in there. Now we should be able to work our way to the bottom here prying outward. We may need to lift up a little bit to get over that covering there.So once we have this pried out enough, keep in mind we can't pry it too far because we are going to have some wires here. If you wanted to, you could disconnect these and pull it out a little bit further, but I think for now, this should be good. Now, if we look directly behind this panel here, you can see this foam pad here. We're actually just going to pull that out. There's nothing holding it in, just looks like that. And then inside this little cutout here, this wire here is going to be the one we're going to splice into because this goes directly to our tail light.We need to remove this connector here. It's going to be hard to show you on camera here, but once we do it, I should be able to show you the tab that you need to press to release it. But essentially, that's all you're doing. There's a little center section on that tab there that you need to push down on, and it should allow you to pull the tail light connector out. There we go. As you can see here, this little center section here, that's what we need to press down on and then we can pull out. Now we can go ahead and repeat that process on the other side.So we've got our panel held back here just sort of pried away so we can show you. But the first step here of the actual installation of our harness is to go ahead and mount the converter box here. We can use a self-tapping screw or double-sided tape that'd be provide with us. We're going to find a place to mount this. If we look back here, we're just going to peel this carpeted panel back. We can have a decent flat spot here, which should work perfect there for mounting. We're just going to cut a little bit of this carpet out here, so we'll have a nice flat spot to mount it, and that should be plenty.Now we're going to take our double-sided tape here, going to place that on the back of the converter box like so. Press it down to make sure it sticks nice and good. Then we can take the other side off. You can go ahead and stick it in that location we just showed you. We actually had to move our converter box over a little bit. That ridge there was stopping us from getting a nice flat connection, so we just moved it over just a slight bit here. We have a nice flat spot. It's nice and secure.The next thing we're going to do is we're going to attach our ground wire from our converter box here, and luckily for us, there's already a ground stud. We have the nut on it right down here in this rear corner here. So we're going to use a 10mm socket. We're going to remove that nut and we're going to place the ring terminal from our ground wire over the stud and then resecure the nut.Once we have our converter grounded, the next thing we're going to do is we're going to make the connection behind our driver side tail light, which is going to be the connector here with a yellow wire running to it. So we're going to take tail light connector here. It's only going to go in one way, so not much we can really mess up here. We're going to push it into a here at click. Perfect. Now this other connector here is going to plug in behind the tail light here. If you remember, we reached in there earlier. It's going to be kind of hard to see, but it should be back there. Perfect.Now we can take the connector with the red and green wires, and this is going to be run over to the passenger side of the vehicle. So it looks like the best place to do this is to first sneak it down through this pocket here. We can just sort of follow the body line here. We may use some tape to secure it to the back of this here until we're over on the other side.The next thing we need to do is we're going to have a black wire coming from our converter box here. It's already going to have some of the jacket stripped off there. This is going to be our power wire and it needs to be run to the vehicle's battery. So what we're going to do now is, since we don't have a lot of room to work with, we're going to take the other wire that comes with our kit. They give you a large spool of it to run up to the battery. We're going to crimp on a butt connector to that first and then attach it to our wire here. So now we have our power wire here with our yellow butt connector crimped on, as we said we went ahead and did one side first so we weren't doing them both back here. Now we can go ahead and crimp on the other side to the power wire here coming from our converter. And we'll just give that a nice tug here to make sure it's secure.We'll take the rest of our wire here. We're just going to leave it outside the hatch here for now, because the next thing we're going to do is. going to push our panel in a little bit. We need to go ahead and make our positive connection to the battery. In order to do this, we need to first find the battery, which is going to be located under our spare tire here. We're going to go ahead and remove the spare tire to reveal our battery. Now we're going to take our power wire here. The first thing we do before we begin routing it, we're going to cut it down because we're not going to need near as much as they give you. The reason they give you that much is normally the battery is up in the engine bay, which means we need a lot more wire and actually makes installation a lot more time-consuming. So this one's going to be super easy.We're going to take our power wire here, and I think just going to run it down into this little pocket here, same path we took to get to the passenger side for our tail light connector. And then our spare tire is going to sit here. Looks like there's some channels under here that we already have some of our wires running to, so let's go ahead and see if we can't fish it down through there. So you can see it came up right there, got pretty lucky there. And then let's go ahead and leave it in this general location for now.Now that we have our power wire roughly where we're going to need it, this is going to be the positive battery terminal. We're going to see that plus sign there. We have this gray cover sort of covering the bits we need to get to. There's going to be two plastic clips here, just going to go ahead and pull up on those, and there's going to be another one up top here like that. We're not going to remove this entirely, but we should sort of peel it back enough to reveal a nut here, which is the one we're going to be attaching to. We're going to need a 13mm socket here. We'll go ahead and remove that for now.Now we're going to route our wire the rest of the way over there. Should need about that much. Go ahead and cut the rest off. Now we're going to take some of the jacket off because we're going to be crimping on one of our butt connectors here. And the other end of that butt connector is going to go to our fuse holder. Now keep in mind, our fuse is not inserted for this step here. And then on the other side here, finally, we're going to attach the ring terminal that came with our kit here. And then I'm sure as you figured, that ring terminal is going to go over that post that we just ended the nut from. We should be able to install our cover now without too much issue. We may need to trim part of this off here to make room for our wire that's coming out. Perfect.So last, but not least, we have our actual four-pole trailer connector. Now we have a couple of different options for this. It's really going to be what kind of trailer we're going to be towing and how often we're going to be towing. If our trailer only has a four-pole on there and we're not going to be towing that often, best case would probably be to just ravel up our trailer connector and store inside the vehicle here. We can even put it in this little pocket here when it's not being used.And then when it is being used, we could do like the manufacturers recommend and just drape it over our little threshold here. When we do shut the hatch, it's not going to pinch it. It will secure it enough so it's not going to move around, but it's not going to cause any damage, and then we can just connect our trailer to it like that. That's probably going to be the most common installation for those just infrequent towers.However, if our trailer has a seven-way and we need to adapt this to a different trailer connector or if we find ourselves to be towing frequently, it's going to be a good idea to go ahead and route the trailer connector outside the vehicle and mount it permanently to our trailer hitch. Now, in order to do that, we're actually going to need to find a grommet, so we can go from inside the vehicle down below. I've already went ahead and located one for you guys and we have a perfect one right here, which we should be able to use. We just simply peel that off. As we can see there, that's going to come up right above our heat shield.So we'll go underneath and we'll pull our wires through. But before we do that, you can obviously tell that our trailer connector isn't going to fit through that hole. So what we need to do is we need to go ahead and cut our wiring harness here, and then we can extend our wires a little bit, if needed, and we can feed the trailer connector through. We can bring the blunt cut wires up through this hole and then we can reconnect them. Keep in mind, we do want to cut it so that when we're attaching our butt connectors they're inside the vehicle here, so we don't have to worry about them getting weathered outside. So let's go ahead and do that now. If you went through it this, we can go ahead and button up our panels here. We'll leave our floor covering off for now, but these panels can be resecured. Don't forget to take your weather stripping here, make sure it's outside of the panel, just like that.So now we're going to go ahead and take our wiring harness here. We're going to give us a little bit room to work with, but we're just going to cut it about right here. We're going to cut all of our wires. Now we're going to peel each of these back, and I need to cut in between them to do this. We're going to peel each of these back a few inches or so, and then we're going to go ahead and attach some butt connectors. We sell these butt connectors, but keep in mind, they're not going to be included with your kit because this isn't the standard installation that the manufacturer provides the equipment for. But they're super cheap, easy to install, so it shouldn't be too much of a deal breaker.Just go ahead and strip some of our jacket back from each of these, about 1/4" should be plenty. Once we get all of these crimped on here, we're going to take the other loop that we have here with our trailer connector. We're going to come underneath and we're going to try to route the blunt cut ends up through this hole into the hatch area here. So a little tip here to help us get our wiring up through that grommet there. We went ahead and took a piece of air line tubing and just shoved it down through that hole. Luckily for us, it came out first try right here where we need it to. Need to be careful because there's our heat shield up there that's kind of sharp.Now that we have our air line tubing pulled down, we'll take some electrical tape and tape the end of our harness to this. That way, when we pull the other side of the air line tubing back up into the hatch, our harness will follow it. There we have it. So now that we have our wiring harness up into the hatch here with our trailer connector on the other side, can do the same thing like we did to the other side of the harness here. Trim these ends back and we should be able to match it color for color. One of them is solid black. One of them is black with a white stripe, black with a green stripe and black with a yellow stripe. Go ahead and cut inaudible 00:17:10 these one at a time.Once we have all our connections made here, I'm going to go ahead and take some electrical tape. I'm going to tape everything up. I'm going to find a point, probably here, and secure it inside of the vehicle here. So we don't have to worry about it dropping down too much. Then the last step, we're going to take our grommet here. I'll show you that next. We're going to make a small cut in there, so we can reinstall it.I'm just going to take a pair of diagonal cutters here and cut a split in there like so. We need to make it a little bigger and we can feed our wiring harness through there. We should be able to reinstall our grommet relatively easy. Going to look something about like that. Now I'm going to take our 15-amp fuse, insert it into the fuse holder. We're going to reinstall our spare tire along with our floor covering, and then finally we can go ahead and test the trailer connector to make sure all our lights work.We went ahead and ran the electrical connector sort of behind this bumper fascia here. There's a little pocket over here you can slip it through, and we can get it to come down here by our receiver tube. We have a couple of different options for security. If we want, we could take a no-drill mounting bracket, which we sell here at etrailer. You're going to have to get a long one and you're probably going to have to bend it too, or what you can do is you can simply tuck some of the wire back up into the pocket that we just pulled it out. It's going to be behind this heat shield, so we shouldn't have too many issues with our exhaust. But we can just come around to the front here and secure it, just like so, and that'll be sufficient for most applications.So now that we have our trailer connector in the rough location where we want it, again, you can choose to permanently mount it or just wrap it around our trailer receiver tube here. We can go ahead and test our lights now. We're going to be using a four-pole plug-in LED circuit tester, which we sell here through etrailer. If you have your trailer, you could use that as well. The tester is going to be the preferred method because if we have any issues on our trailer, that could throw off our test results here.So now that we have our vehicle turned on or that you're hooked up to the trailer, we can go ahead and go through our signals here. We'll first start with the tail lights. You can see those are working. Going to switch over to the brakes, and then finally we have our left turn signal and right turn signal. So there we go. Now we know we have everything hooked up correctly, we're ready to hit the road. That's going to do it for our look and installation of Tekonsha's T-One Trailer Wiring Harness here for our 2020 Volvo XC60.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Test Fit:
Conner L

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