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Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Ford Transit T250

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2020 Ford Transit T250


Hey everybody. My name is Ryan and here at etrailer, we install, test fit and review a lot of different parts. That way we could try to help answer any questions those of you might have. And that's exactly what we're doing here today on our 2020 Ford transit T250. We're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha T1 vehicle wiring harness. So whenever we get these transits here in the shop nine times out of 10 are used for work vehicles and it makes sense a really capable and kind of that's what they're designed to do more or less.

And so if you're pulling a trailer behind your transit trying to get the job done and everything else you're gonna need a way to eliminate the lights on that trailer to keep you safe and legal. And that's exactly what this kit is gonna do. So the connector is gonna provide you with your turn signals your taillights and your brake lights. And it's a four way flat type connectors. So super common, and a lot of different trailers will plug right into it.

So that's good. The subcontract kits are really, well-built. I'm a big fan of 'em. I actually have one on my own personal vehicle. So I've got faith in them.

I feel like they should last a long time and work the way they should. And one thing I do suggest is picking up a bracket. So the kit does not come with a bracket. But what I'm using is a no-drill long bracket and a four way flat bracket. That way you can attach it to your hitch and keep it nice and secure and easy to get to.

One thing that is nice is the kit uses a module box which is this here. And what that's gonna do is protect your trasit's its factory wiring, if a shot or an electrical issue we're to occur on the trailer side. So honestly that puts my mind at ease. With today's newer vehicles, they tend to have really sophisticated electronic systems and you don't wanna do anything to jeopardize those systems. And because of that module box it's something you're not gonna have to worry about. Something I do want to mention is we get a lot of these here in the shop and the customers wanting to install a brake controller and a seven way type connector. So I figured this would be worth mentioning if that's what you're looking to do. One thing I really like is Tekonsha all in one, harness it more or less. It's gonna come with everything you need to get your sudden way signal back here suddenly connected rather. And it's gonna come with all the wires and everything to be able to hook up a brake controller. It makes it super straightforward. And one of the brake controllers that works out real well for a lot of our customers is the Tekonsha P3 kind of does a little bit of everything and is a good all-around choice. But that being said at the end of the day, a wiring kit you really can't go wrong with, it's gotta be high quality and get the job done. Now, as far as the installation goes it's really not too bad since it uses T-connectors. Is this gonna plug into your factory white connectors behind your tail lights there. I will say probably the most time-consuming part is this having to run a power wire from the back here up into the engine compartment. But as long as you take your time really shouldn't give you a whole lot of issues. Speaking of which let's go ahead and hook everything up together now. To begin our installation we're gonna be here at the back of our transit and we need to remove our tail lights. So go ahead and open up our doors. To get our tail lights out. We're gonna have two Torx bit fasteners and we're gonna use a T25, to get those removed. Once you have them out, it should be able to kind of maneuver that tail light around. Looks like we may have to kind of close our door maybe about halfway to give us the space that we need. So probably be easier to close this a little bit come out to the other side of the door and pull it out. Once you have it released, you can set it down and we're gonna disconnect it. And I have one plug here just push down on the center, separate that connector. And we're gonna do the same thing over on the other side of our transit. Now we need to do over here on the driver's side. If you look along this edge bar plastic bumper we're gonna have a couple T 25 Torx bit fasteners. I want to pull them out as well. And the reason I'm doing this is to give us a little bit of movement here in the bumper, because what we're gonna have to do is take our new wiring harness. And we're gonna take the T connector here that has the yellow, Brown, and white wires and just come right underneath the back of our bumper. We're gonna push us up into the taillight pocket. So it's pretty easy to kind of just reach under there, push it up through this opening like so. I think what I'm gonna do is there's another small opening here. I'm gonna try to get our connectors through that. Like so. Then what we're able to do is one end of our T connector. Gonna plug into our factory taillight harness there. And then if we grab our taillight, the other end of the T connector, we'll simply plug back into it. Now that we have everything plugged in over here we can go ahead and reinstall our taillight. The opposite way that we removed it. You're doing this to make sure you're not getting any wires pinched up back there because adding that T-connector does make things a little bit tighter. But it should go back together pretty smooth. Pushed into place Grab our fasteners and zip everything back down. So I went ahead and reinstall these two fasteners here on the edge of our bumper. And now what we can do is go underneath of our vehicle and continue to route some of our wiring. It's not underneath of our vehicle here. This is where all of our wiring dropped down here at the bottom. And what I went ahead and did is this loosely routed our four way flat wiring as well as our green T-connector wire. I'm just gonna let everything kind of hang for now. And once you have everything together, then we can come back and zip tie and secure our wiring and make it look pretty. But with that being said, all I did was just go right over this bumper beam here, the brace the four way flat went into the bracket here on our hitch. The green wire just goes along through here. And what I've done is used a piece of tubing as a pull wire. And just like the driver's side through that same opening I dropped our pull wire down, taped on our T-connector that way, when we lower our vehicle down we can just pull up on our fish wire and it'll feed our T-connector right into the taillight pocket. All right. So here in the passenger side, taillight pocket, pulled up our T-connector just like the other side. Let's get to work the same, one end's gonna snap into the factory connector there. And if you grab our taillight, the other end of that T-connector, we'll simply just plug into it. So once you're plugged in you can go ahead and reinstall this taillight as well. At this point what we can do is secure our module box. So you wanna make sure that this surface is really clean. So I rubbed it down with some rubbing alcohol and we use a provided two sided sticky tape, on there, so that other side off, and I think I'm gonna go about right here. Clean that surface off too, which I've done. Make sure it's secure. And I think what I'm gonna do just for good measure is there's actually a opening there. I'm just gonna take a self tapping screw and run it through there as well. That way we don't have to worry about this going anywhere. Now with that done, we can grab our white wire here with the pre-attached ring terminal and this is gonna need to get grounded. So I think I'm just gonna secure that on this piece of metal as well. So I'll grab a another self tapping screw and get this grounded out. So now we can do this, grab this black wire that's coming out of our module box. Then it's gonna be pre-stripped. I'm gonna put on a buck connector. Now I'm using a heat shrink butt connector just provides us with a little more protection from the elements, but the ones that come with the kit will work just fine. However, if you'd rather switch up these heat shrinks you can grab them here in etrailer. And then what you're gonna do is grab your big bundle of power wire. And I just grabbed one end of it here. We're gonna strip back the installation, twist those wires together. And what we're gonna do is put that in the other end of our buck connector. So I can, I like to grab it with the cramps makes a little easier. Slide in. Crimp it down. And I'll come back with my heat source and seal at the edges So when I went ahead and did was this put some electrical tape over our buck connector there for a little extra protection. And then I secured up all of our loose wiring. So I just bundled it up, zip tied it up here. And I also zip tied up this wiring that we ran over to the passenger side using a couple of zip ties to keep it up and out of the way. So what I went ahead and did, is take our bundle a power wire and ran that up into the engine compartment. And this is a path that I took, brought it around through here to this side and this bracket here, and started to route it towards the front. Now, when you're doing this you want to make sure to avoid any hot or moving parts and use those zip ties to keep it secure. That comes over our axle, see it right there. And then I just ran it along the side of our fuel tank. So here on the side of our fuel tank, you can see I routed our wiring, kind of behind the support straps all the way up to the front. You can see it comes out right there. Just continued along straight ahead. And then it runs kind of along our frame rail. It's a little tricky to see. So right here, along our frame rail I just continued to push a wire along it towards the front. So it's gonna just run up through that opening there. It's a little tricky to see but if you just keep pushing it forward it does come out to a spot that is easier to work with. You can see it there and what I've done to get our wiring up into the engine compartment was a use a pull wire like we did earlier. He just dropped that pull wire down through the engine compartment comes down here you tape that power wire to it. And then you can go back up into the engine compartment pull up on your fish wire and it'll bring it where you need it to go. So now here underneath the hood here's where our power wire came up. And what I did is just connected to our fuse holder here. That's included again, I used a heat shrink buck connector to pair those two together. Then on the other end of our fuse holder I just crimped on one of the included ring terminals. Wanna make sure that your fuse is not installed just yet. What we need to do is hook this up to battery power. So if you come here to this cover you can lift that up and that's gonna expose a 13 millimeter nut there and that's a power source. So grab our socket, and get this removed. Carefully pull that off and take our ring terminal. Slide that over the stud and simply re-install the nut. Once that's tightened down, go ahead, pick your cover back on. And then what we can do is grab our fuse and pop that into the holder. Now we can do is test our wiring to make sure that it is working properly. I'm using a tester which you can pick up here at each trailer. And I suggest doing that as opposed to hooking up to your trailer. That way, if there is an issue on the trailer we can eliminate that completely. We just wanna test our vehicle side here. With that being said, we'll use our left turn signal our right turn signal, our brakes and our running lights. And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Tekonsha T1 vehicle wiring harness on our 2020 Ford transit T250..


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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