bing tracking image

Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Honda Pilot

content loading

Customers compare 118286 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install a Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2020 Honda Pilot


Connor: Hey, guys, Connor here at etrailer.com. Today, we're going to be taking a look at the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness for our 2020 Honda Pilot. Our Tekonsha T-One here is going to offer a seven-way trailer connector.Now the seven-way trailer connector is going to be great for some of the medium to larger duty trailers, which have electric brakes that we need to activate. This connector here is going to provide us with all the basic trailer lighting circuits.It's also going to charge us. It's also going to allow us to use a battery on the trailer, because it has a battery charge line circuit, as well as is mentioned, the electric brake circuit. However, keep in mind, we still need an electric brake controller, in order to activate the trailer's brakes, which we sell here at each trailer.The Tekonsha seven-way is going to be a super easy install.

You're going to be able to do this by yourself at home, in your driveway or your garage. There's not going to be any special tools required. You don't need to take the vehicle to the dealer to do any programming. Everything is simply plug and play, and there's no splicing.Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's jump right in and show you how it's installed. Now.

To start our installation today, the first thing we're going to want to do is open the rear hatch. This is going to allow us access to the panels in here, where we're going to access the plugs for our wiring harness.We want to do this before we go up to the hood there, and disconnect the negative battery terminal, or else we're not going to be able to open the hatch with the negative battery terminal disconnected. And we're going to have to raise the hood.The reason we have to do this is, we have to disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal. As we can see here, our battery is actually tucked down in here, underneath this trim panel right here, as well as part of our air box. In order to access that negative cable, we're going to have to take a few of these off.Now, this first outer portion here, this trim panel, this is just going to be hold in place with some little push fasteners.

What we want to do is feel along the bottom here, until we feel for them. Once we find them, we want to pull up on there.We want to make sure not just to pull up on the edges, because we could thin a damages panel. But again, everything's just held in place with a little push fastener. So if we just slowly work our way across from one side to the other, we should be able to get these out relatively easy, without any damage.Now that we have this out of place, we can go ahead and set it up here, to get it out of our way. The next thing we need to do, is go ahead and remove the breather inlet of our air box here.This is going to be held on with four screws, which we see here.

So we're going to need to remove each of these, in order to get toward negative battery terminal. Once those are free, we should be able to wiggle it in place. We're going to take the other portion of our lock tab here, and just hang on to those, so we don't lose that.Now, we should be able to wiggle the air box out of place, set this piece aside. The other piece is held on, actually, from a little rubber clamp here, that's attaching it into the air box housing. So what we're going to do is just sort of wiggle it, twist it, and then that'll come free.Now that we have the last piece of our breather box out, we can access our negative battery terminal here. What we need is going to grab a 10-millimeter socket, and that's going to fit over this net right here. So we're just going to simply loosen this up.Once we have that loose, the tensions off your negative terminal should be able to break free, as we can see here. We just want to tuck this aside, and make sure it doesn't come back into contact with the negative post on our battery.Now that we have the hatch open, we had the battery disconnected, we can move on to the next step, which is going to be to lay down our third row of seats right here. In order to do this, we just pull on this little strap here, that'll release the lock, and then allow them to swing down.Once we have the seats down, we're going to want to take out this little storage lid here. We just simply do this by pulling up on this little lever here, and we're going to pull it out away from the vehicle. Then we're going to set this up here, because we're not going to need it, and we're going to have it out of the way for the next step.Now, after that's done, we're going to have to remove these two inside trim panels here. There's going to be one at the back here, and then one here at the front. Now these are just held in place with little push fasteners.We're going to have to want to get up under here, as best we can, and just sort of work our way over, being careful not to damage any of the tabs, and just pull it out. It should be fairly easy. And we can set this aside up here again.Now, before we start pulling on the last one, we're going to have to remove this little center panel cover here. So we just want to simply take a trim panel tool, or a flathead screwdriver, and just sort of pry that out as best as we can.That should be pretty easy to get out after that. And now, like we did for the rear one, we can go ahead and just gently pry out on our trim panel here to remove it, and release the clips. Again, that one was pretty easy to pop out as well, but we'll just set it up here to get it out of our way.Once we get the interior panels removed, we have two sort of cargo hooks here that need to come out, so we can pry this panel out, and that'll reveal the access location for our connector that we need. In order to get this first one here, we need to sort of take a pick tool, or a flathead screwdriver.We basically need to peel the face of this hook off. So once that's done, it's going to reveal an eight-millimeter bolt here, that we simply take out. Once we have that, we can pull the bolt off, and then we're going to have to juggle our hook loose, to remove that, and we can set this aside.Now we can move our way down here. We're going to need to remove this next sort of cargo hook here. We're going to, again, take our pick tool or a flathead screwdriver, and we want to get it up in between these two panels here, try to pry that loose. And you'll see here, that'll release the cover there.Behind this cover, we have one Phillips head screw. Now, please keep in mind, this screw was extremely hard for us to remove. So we're going to want to take a very large head on our screwdriver here, insert this in, and put a lot of pressure into the screw. That way, we don't strip it.Once that screw's removed, we're going to be able to pull our cargo hook out along with it. Now our next part of the process here, we're going to have to remove a couple of these little doors here, because this panel is actually going to come out to reveal the location of our connector by inaudible 00:07:07 here.So these are pretty easy. There's a thumb hole here. Just pop that out, set it aside. This one, we're going to want to take a trim panel tool, or a flathead screwdriver, whatever we have on hand, and that'll pop out that panel.Now, before we start to pull out on our panel, we have some weather stripping here, which is going to need to come out a little bit. So once we get our fingers behind there, we don't have to remove this entire strip here, just along the lines here where our trim panel is.Once we get that off, we should be able to pry this panel back. You'll see you have a couple of clips up here, we need to be careful of. Keep in mind, we are not removing this entirely, so we don't need to pull all the clips out. We're just trying to bend it back enough, to where we have enough room behind here, to get our connector.Now that we have all our panels removed, and they're loose, and not snug on the vehicle anymore, we need to go ahead and remove this rubber grommet down here. This is going to allow us to fish our seven-way connector and mount it to the trailer hitch.For the easiest, what I've found is, to just take your fingernails, and get under the grommet there. And it should then allow you to pull this free. Now that we have the panel pulled back here, we can easily locate our connector that we're going to use for our wiring harness.Once we found that, we're just going to want to snake it through this little hole, this access hole right here. Then we're going to connect this to the matching in on our wiring harness. Now you may notice here, that we actually have two of these white connectors, which are very similar.If your vehicle is equipped with backup sensors, there's going to be another plug for this one, that we're going to attach as well. Ours doesn't have it, so we're simply just going to leave it aside.Now we can tuck the remaining wiring harness back into this cutout here, as best as we can, feed everything down. We can take the end that goes to our seven-way here, and position that where we think the grommet is going to be. And now we're going to come underneath here.We're going to try to locate the end where that seven-way goes. As you can see here, I found it right here, and we're just going to feed this through the hole, that we took in the grommet out from. We may need to hold our wires up here to make sure it comes down smoothly.We're actually going to keep feeding the wire all the way down, until we see the new grommet we have here. Then we're just going to reinstall that, push it down into the hole. We should be able to lock it in place, to keep any water and dirt from coming into the cap of the vehicle.Now in order to get our grommet, to see correctly, we may need to come to the underside of the vehicle here, and sort of pull it through the back side. We just want to make sure the indentation it's going to be mated up here to the floor plan.The grommet's a little bit big for this hole, but we should still get it to fit pretty well, if we just work with it a little bit, and just keep trying to pull the grommet through. As you can see here, we're just securing our other unused blue connector to the existing wiring harness, so we don't hear it rattle around.We can take our excess wire here, do the same thing. Our next step is going to be to mount the converter box to the inside of the vehicle here. So we're going to want to pull it out here, expose the back of it.Then we can take our double-sided adhesive, which is included with the kit. You can stick it to the back of the converter box here, hold that and press it on there for a few seconds, to make sure it has a good adhesion. And really, you can mount this wherever you think is the best place.However, we are going to be mounting it right here, to the back of the pan here. Because it's just in the best place that we have to reach. Once we have that off, you can just go ahead and find the spot back here.Let's take our ground wire out here, because we are going to need to attach that next. Like I said, you can mount it anywhere you see fit. There's a nice flat spot back here that we're going to use. And we want to hold it there for a few seconds to make sure it sticks.The final thing we need to do here is run our ground wire. Now you can see there's not a lot of space back here. What I found to be the best solution here is, we're actually going to take this, and we're going to run it up through here, through one of the points we use for the cargo tie-downs.That way, we don't have to drill into any of the panels. So when we reinstall our cargo hook, we just want to make sure that we have the ground strap mounted behind that, and against the vehicle's body here.As we mentioned earlier, we're going to be using a pre-existing hole for our ground, which is one of the tiedown loops for the interior. So we need to take far hook here, and just make sure we have the ring terminal for the ground wire attached to the back of that.That way, when we line that up, we can secure it down. Then our ground wire will be secure against the body, and we'll have a good ground.Now our next step here is to untangle our wires first. Then, once we get these untangled, we can go ahead and insert these into the back of the seven-way connector, which is going to mate up to the plug we have mounted on the trailer hitch.There is a diagram included with us in the instructions, that we're going to be using, to line these pins in the back of this socket. As you can see here, we have our wires already inserted into the back of our connector here. Now we need to again pay special attention to the instructions, to make sure the pins are aligned in the correct spots.We're also going to want to use a set of needlenose pliers to help align the pins inside the connector, because they do need to install in a certain position, and that's just going to make things easier. Once we've had all the wires in, and we've ensured that they're in their correct locations, we can go ahead and insert the locking tab, which is included with the kit, that we have to just sort of weave through the wires here, to hold everything in place.There we have it. Now that we have our pigtail connector installed on our wiring harness, the next step is going to be to install our actual seven-way trailer connector on the vehicle, and to the trailer hitch. That way we can plug the pigtail into the back of this.This customer has a trailer connector mounting bracket, which can be obtained here through etrailer.com. This is going to Mount to the pre-welded trailer connector bracket on our trailer hitch. So we want to just simply insert the trailer connector into this bracket.Now we need to take our seven-way connector, and insert it into the back that we just mounted. As you can see here, we have some excess slack. So what we're going to do is zip tie this up to the hitch receiver cross tube, so we don't have to worry about it dragging on the ground. We're going to take some electrical tape here, just clean up the back of our wires, through the trailer connector, make sure we don't have any dirt, water or anything getting in there, and causing any corrosion issues.Now to finish up our installation, we want to come here to the front of the vehicle, and remove the fuse box cover, at the fuse box, located next to the brake reservoir. We have three fuses we need to insert. One of them is the main trailer fuse for all our trailer lights. That's going to be going right here.Then we have two more fuses, the smaller 20-amp. One of these is for the trailer brake, that's going to be going in this position. The last one is going to be for the trailer battery charge. That's going to go over here.We need to go back to the front of the vehicle here, once we have everything connected at the rear, and make sure we reinstall our negative battery terminal on the battery. Again, take our 10-millimeter socket here, and tighten it back down. Make sure it's pretty snug on the cables, and so it doesn't wiggle around.Now that we have the fuses inserted, we can go ahead and take our tester here. If you don't have a trailer nearby, we can use that as well, but we can test out all our circuits. We're going to start with the brake, the left turn, the right turn, and then we're going to do our running lights.Last but not least, we can check the reverse. Now that we've tested our lights, and we've ensured all our circuits are working correctly, that's going to do it for the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wring Harness on our 2020 Honda Pilot..


Questions and Comments about this Video

Todd W.

I don’t understand the need to disconnect the battery if the fuses are NOT installed yet. Seems like a lot of work for nothing including the reset codes, etc. etc. secondly, if I understand it right, there will be a second white block that the backup sensor plugs into? Do the blocks go together only one way? Do I just zip tie it somewhere? Any enlightenment is appreciated. Like to start this project, but don’t want any surprises with everything torn apart. Nice video otherwise! Would not have bought the product without it.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Chris R.

Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution. I highly recommend following this step even if it might just be overkill (you can never be too safe....). You're correct about the backup sensor being a nearby white plug. The install instructions do a pretty nice job of detailing this step (linked below).

Derrick

Is there a video showing connecting the other white connector for vehicles with backup sensors? I have pulled the side panel off and can’t find it, there doesn’t seem to be a video, pictures, or any details specifying where the other connector is located.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jacob H.

Unfortunately we have not had the chance to do an install on a Honda Pilot with the back up sensors. The plug for the back up sensors should be a white plug very close to the other plug that you will use to plug the rest of your wiring harness in. It will be located in the rear driver side panel with the rest of the wiring. If you're needing more details on the installation you can find the installation instructions on our product page.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.