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Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2014 Honda CR-V

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How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2014 Honda CR-V


Today in this 2014 Honda CRV, we're going to install part number 90885 from Tekonsha. This is the Prodigy P2 Brake Controller. To help install our brake controller, we're going to use the installation kit, part number ETBC7. We're also going to use part number 18136, the no-drill mounting bracket, the long version. We'll start off that part first. We'll go ahead and put the bracket on top of the hitch.

We have to push it on a bumper fascia just a little bit to slide it through. Then we'll use a clamp that comes with it to clamp to the hitch. Once we have it installed, we'll go ahead and rotate it to hide the crew behind the hitch and then tighten it down.We're going to bend the excess back up into itself. Now we can go ahead install the bracket from the ETBC7 kit to hold the 7-pole adaptor. On this case, the bracket does sit a little bit far so we're going to take the bracket from the 7-pole and reverse it to help hold it in as close as possible to the hitch.

Using the hardware that comes with the long bracket kit, we'll go ahead and mount the bracket. Once the bracket is installed we'll go ahead and install the 7-pole adaptor. We'll go ahead and take the plug, put into the bracket and using the provided hardware, we'll go ahead and install it.We'll take some time to go ahead and take the wires to keep them a little bit organized. And then we'll go ahead and connect the previously installed 4-pole unto the 4-pole that comes with the adaptor. We'll also use some Dielectric grease to help protect the connection point.

The grease we're using is part number 11755. We'll put the two house together and use some electric tape to make it a semi permanent connection. At this point we need to go ahead and connect the gray cable to wires on our ETBC7 kit. We're going to connector gray cables to the blue and the black wire. We'll go ahead and hook it up with as follows.This will go from black to black and white to blue.

We'll use a provided but connectors to make our connection. We'll also add some loom material to help protect the wires. This loom does come with the ETBC7 kit. With the wire ready to install, we'll go ahead and start routing it to our front. We're just going to go just right in front of the axle just help hold the wire. We'll go ahead and route it through and take up our slack. We have our wire in random place. We'll go ahead and take a moment to ground the white wire. This is a white wire at the ring terminal. We'll go ahead and run that straight to the frame underneath.We'll go ahead and zip ties our wire to the hitch. We'll use some zip ties to help pull it to the hitch and tuck away the 4-pole connection point as close to the bumpers possible. Then we'll also zip tie our wires to the panel underneath the car. In this case to help us out, we're going to drill a small 1/4-inch hole then use a zip tie to attach it to that. Then we'll go ahead and continue on running a wire up towards in front of the vehicle. In this case, we're going over the rear suspension and we'll go ahead and follow the tube that goes down to the bottom of the frame and continue on upfront.We're going to tuck our wire behind the plastic panels that are underneath the car. There will be a few plastic ribbons that we have to loosen up and a few screws that we have to remove. We can go tuck our wire in between and we'll continue that until we go up to the front suspension. Once we're done, we can go ahead and reinstall our panels. We'll go ahead and take a wire harness and run it up by our firewall up towards the hood. Then we'll get underneath the hood and pull out our excess. Once we have all our excess ran out, we'll go ahead and run our wire up to our battery.Once we have our wire ran, we'll go ahead and make a slit into the jacket as covering the wires. We're going to get access to the black wire. Once we get access to the black wire, we'll cut it to length then we'll leave the rest of the wire alone. This black wire will provide 12-volt power supply to our 7-pole connector. This wire will eventually go to the positive side of the battery and also through a 40-amp circuit breaker that comes with the kit. There is not much room to mount the circuit breaker to the kit so we locked this zip tie to the wire harness underneath the hood.In our breaker, we're going to use for a 12-volt power supply, will be the 40-amp breaker. Once our circuit breaker is in place, we'll go ahead and ran our black wire through it. The part of the wire that goes to the 7-pole connector will connect up to the silver post. Then the other half of the wire will go to the copper post up to the battery. We'll go ahead and work with the rest of our cable. What we need to do is route our uncut wire, the white part, back down to the engine compartment and down towards the bottom. We need to run a white wire to the inside of a cabin.This white wire will eventually go to the blue wire from the break control. To get inside the vehicle, we're going to drill a hole. The location we're going to do is right by the steering shaft where it goes to the firewall. The plastic cover, we can simply pop off and remove. Inside that towards the bottom, we'll go ahead and drill our pot hole. We'll start with our 1/4-inch hole then we'll work away up to 11-30 seconds. Our final hole size will be 11/16. We'll install a snap pushing grommet, part number SWC8057. We'll go ahead and route our cable back through.We're going to take pull our cable as much as possible to take up the slack. We'll go ahead and cut off our cable up to the location where we'll eventually mount our brake controller. Once the cable is cut, we'll go ahead and strip the jacket back and we'll cut the black wire short and leave our white wire along. This way we know that this single white wire we'll go through our blue wire on our brake controller. Our excess wire we just cut off, we're going to turn around and push it right back through the blue wire. We'll go ahead and even up the ends inside the cabin and route the wire back up to our battery.In this case we had just enough wire to do the job. Once it's routed to the battery, we'll go ahead and install our second circuit breaker. Our second circuit breaker will be the 20 amp circuit breaker. Like before, we'll go ahead and zip tie our circuit breaker to the wire harness. Then we'll go ahead and connect the wires just like we did before. We'll go ahead and peel back the cable to get to the black and white wires. The black wire from the brake controller will go to the silver post and then the copper post will go up to the battery. I have the white wire to the side.Our battery is a very good opportunity to ground to so we're going to simply just ground it to a sheet metal in front of the battery. It's nice and thick and it overlaps. There's plenty of material to dig into. We'll use one of the self-tapping screws that comes with the ETBC7 kit and attached to the middle. We'll go back inside the car underneath the dash. Where we'll take our wire harness for our brake controller and start making our connections. First we'll go ahead and match up our black and white colors. In our black and white wires and break controller harness we'll go to the black and white wires that are bundled together.Then our blue wire for our brake controller will hook up to our single white wire that we run earlier. We'll use butt connectors that came with the brake controller kit to make our connections. Our red wire has to go to the cold side of the brake switch which means we got to find a wire that turns on when the brake pedals are pushed. Then our small panel underneath the dash, we have to loosen up the simple tab we get to twist and we can lower out of the way. Then we have somewhat access to our brake switch. Then we'll go ahead and test our wires. In this case the wire we're using is a light blue wire.We'll go ahead and show it with the light tester then we'll go ahead and connect our red wire to that blue wire. To make the connection we're going to use our quick splice connector that comes with ETBC7 kit. We'll go ahead and start working with the brake controller and the packet that comes with it. First, we'll take the pocket and put it on the location that we want. We'll go ahead and use the self-tapping screws to the brake controller and install on to the dash. Then we'll take our brake controller with our wire harness, push it into the pocket and then plug into our brake controller.Then we can simply snap the brake controller into place. We'll take a few moments to zip tie our wires to make sure it's safe and secure and out of the way underneath the dash. We can go ahead and reinstall our trim panel underneath. Final connection will be to our battery. We'll go ahead and take our wire from our brake controller attached to the positive post in the battery. Then we'll tie it down for good. With everything connected, we'll go ahead and hook up our trailer to it. Once it's plugged in, we could see that the brake controller display is a C for connection.We'll go ahead and hit the manual override lever on the bottom and we can see a current run that way. We know that part is working. Then we'll go ahead and touch the brake pedal. We'll push down on it and it shows the numbers, generally around 2.1. We now have a signal for our brake pedal. At that point it looks like everything is working. With that, that will finish our reinstall of the Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, part number 90885 and installation kit part number ETBC7 and no-drill mounting bracket part number 18136 in this 2014 Hinda CRV. .


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